-^CrossBow^-

There are at least as many and possible more variants on the NTSC front as well. Case in point is that I can't get most of the Pokey music demos to work on any of mine and only get some odd clicking in beat with the music. While other pokey demos, especially the newer released ones, seem to work fine. I've not tested BB but have tested commando and that game worked as expected and was the game that made me realize that my pokeymax on the DF was actually too loud compared to the TIA.

I actually think Atari may have done it on purpose to prevent consumers from using the wrong PSU with the 7800 because they weren't paying attention. Think about how the issue with the 5200 adapter and 8-bit drives? Or someone thinking they can use an NES adapter in something because it fits? I'm more shocked that Atari decided to use a common barrel jack on the Jaguar but then they also designed it so it could use the same thing a Genesis/SMS/TG-16 could use and by then, the SNES was the more likely competition and that uses a totally different power connector. Anyway, that adapter that CPUWIZ posted will work for those that want to use a Genesis PSU with the DF or have modded their internal power connector on the 7800 with a barrel jack wired for using with a Genesis like PSU using Center - polarity. Either way you do it, the DF cart is still a fantastic piece of hardware!

I was playing this lasted build last night through my DF and it really does add that extra touch on the flicker of the exhaust. I know it is just a small thing but I'm glad you thought to include that. I did have one odd bug occur on the previous build of the game. I captured it on video but it only happened once and I can describe what happened: It was on the screen with the artifact on W1. I was just about to grab the artifact when the drone moving up and down in front of the gun clipped me on the bottom of the ship as it was moving down. In other words I moved too quickly and hit the top of that drone. However, when I was brought back at my last checkpoint (2 screens to the right and up from that room), I was shocked to see the artifact just floating in space on that screen in roughly the same place it would normally be? I went through the force fields and was able to touch it and pick it up as if it were on the other screen. It was like the artifact was brought over with me when I died, even though I hadn't actually picked it up yet from the previous screen. I completed the W1 demo and the game did acknowledge having found the artifact? Does that make sense or do I need to find that in my long play capture and up it here?

So the graphical glitching I posted is definitely unique to that specific 7800 of mine. I tested the DF cart again on a recently completed 7800 sent in for services and it did NOT experience the graphical glitching on that console either. It was a late made '88 year X series 7800 (Those 7800s are.... very unusual and obviously were built as cheap as possible btw). So that is 2 out of 3 7800s I've used recently that play the rom without the graphic issues. Not sure why this one I normally use does this but as it is only on the title screen selections and doesn't 'stick' I'm fine with it. So ignore what I said before about the graphical issues I guess.

This one make sense given that the XM isn't officially a released product and might be confusing. The main thing that the XM Enhanced logo was showing us, was that it was using the YM synth sound. This make more sense going forward and will make it that more clear to others when the game detects the YM module or not. I'm curious if it still requires the RAM expansion in forced on mode now that Bob knows how to look for and address the YM module without requiring the detection of the extra RAM from the XM?

That is to adjust the phasing of the artifacting between colors. I don't know about the 2600 side, but on a 7800 it does adjust the tint color of the artifact colors.

I picked up K.O. Cruiser from a local retro game store about 2 years ago I think? That might the be only time I've found a HB game in the wild more or less.

I better order more UAVs then...

Yes and I thought I had mentioned that but maybe not? I know I mentioned this in my video overview of the Dragonfly.

And that is assuming it actually works. Many of them don't work properly as @CPUWIZ can attest too.

The Pac-Man XM with Yamaha is actually in both the HB folder under the P folder, and also in the YM folder. I've used the one in the YM2151 folder to play and it definitely doesn't the sound the same as the standard TIA version (Which is still amazing honestly). If you see XM on the title screen when you load up the rom, then it has detected the YM module and the extra RAM expansion the cart provides to operate. If you only see the logo and do NOT see the XM Enhanced logo to the lower left of the main game logo, then the ROM didn't detect all the hardware.

I can't see how as the UAV produces its own composite signal from the actual video signals off the Maria and color burst from the TIA. So I can see something wrong with the UAV that might not produce composite but I can see installing a separate comp boar and that not working also... Unless there is a problem with the sync signal perhaps from off of the 74LS32 chip just above the Maria? I've had one of those go bad before and it was only providing me with a black n white picture output or sometimes just scattered graphics as if a Sync issue was taking place. I'm not saying that is what is happening here, but as you can't get composite from two different video upgrade boards, that points to something on the 7800 at fault and my first guess is sync.

Clock caps on the older models pretty much have all started to leak and cause issues by now. Most people suggest that if you plan to keep using and playing your OG xbox, that the clock cap needs to be removed ASAP to prevent further issues. Only the 1.6 models require the clock cap to be present.

Well, it depends. I've installed the DCDigital and quite a few other minor mods into my DC and my Xbox 1.6 has a new fan, Xenium mod chip, fully recapped minus the PSU and original LEDs in the power ring changed out so while repair work on the SMD stuff is pretty much out of my wheelhouse, there are things I'm still able to do on them. So again, I'm happy to look at it and see.

I will answer your email to me on this later when I'm able. It is likely something I can look at yes, but I can't make any promises as again I don't normally work on these.

That will likely work, but you have to make sure that the 9v setting is putting out only 9v and not something higher. I'm sure it won't as I don't think anyone is making old school transformer based adapters anymore and they are all switching type but just make sure. And yes the current rating it low. What happens in a case like that usually, is that it will work, but if the console requires more amperage and the PSU can't provide it then there can be issues with glitching on the console, lockups, or it actually works fine but causes the PSU to wear out and die faster.

I can't say this is total truth as I've only physically seen the inside of the 1.6 I have. But this vid seems to offer a few ways to be able to get an idea on which version you may have.

Most likely if you haven't had anything done to it and it is an earlier model XBOX, then the clock cap has likely leaked and corroded the traces. The main indicator of this issue is the power button not working properly anymore. Depending on the amount of damage it may or may not be costly to repair. Shipping an xbox out is the main cost due to how darn heavy they are. I've not dealt with it myself as I have a 1.6 version and those don't have leaking clock caps but yeah, that is my first guess. Another forum member @eightbit just went through something similar not long ago.

I didn't know about the remake until the KS was over so I'm just hoping it is possible to get it after the backers.

No as the polarity will be wrong on this. The DF cart needs a Center + polarity to operate. While a Sega Genesis adapter will physically fit, you will have to cut the wire in the mix, reverse them, to set the properly polarity. That is what I did with mine. Mine is only a 1.3A and works fine, but I also have a DC-DC regulator in my 7800 so the 7800 requires less current than a stock one to operate. A stock 7800 with a Pokey cart needs about 720 - 750ma to operate so getting on that puts out 1.5A was to make sure there was enough current to power both the DF and 7800 at the same time.

Do all 7800 games you have tried produce this? And have you confirmed that a 7800 game via concerto also does this from the actual cart? If you have I apologize for asking.

That scaler actually looks like it is better than the one I have on hand and was trying to use. Maybe I should get this one instead to try and retest. BTW I did have the +5 attached to my 9pin mini-din I was using for testing it. I just pulled the +5 from elsewhere off the board if I recall as I knew my scart switcher required it. And ordered! Although my is coming via the slow boat method as I ordered mine for a little cheaper via AliExpress here: Link is crazy long so just click on this instead...

I've used the Retrofixes boards several times and haven't encountered anything like that before. Maybe a recent change to the components being used compared to the past? The last composite board I installed uses the same circuit but was designed by Mobius Strip Tech and sold by Console5 for a lower cost vs the Retrofixes boards. It seems to produce the same quality of picture that I've always gotten in the past, but I have been told that this newer board from Mobius includes a solid back ground plane on the bottom of the PCB to act as a shield against interference. Console5 is currently sold out of them but I believe they have been given the gerbers etc to have more made up on their own if they choose to do so. So if you can't it might be worth using some flush cutters to trim everything on the bottom of the Retrofixes board to be as flush with the PCB as possible. Then use some kapton tape to cover the entire bottom of the pcb. Cut out a square of foil tape to attach to the bottom of the PCB. Find a way to ground this foil tape to the pcb and then apply more kapton tape to isolate the foil from anything else. I've not tried this myself but I might have to give it a go as I think I still have 2 of Retrofixes boards on hand that I purchased like a year ago or something? Also, if you notice rainbow color artifacts around bright colors and especially white text. Pretty normal for the CV on composite as EVERY single CV I've seen with composite installed does this. In fact, I can still see it even through RF on my small LCD I use on my work bench so it is just there to begin with in the signal. If you want the best pic possible from the CV then you need to either go with an F18 video upgrade or TMS-RGB. I've not seen the F18 myself, but the TMS-RGB is amazing to me every time I turn on my CV and see it. BTW - if your RF is looking that good through a CRT why add the composite? I have a backup CV that is still stock minus the power switch having been replaced out. I've never wanted to do anything with it because it has a really good RF picture even on my LCD displays compared to the daily driver.

You have only see this color smudges on 7800 games correct? If you put in a normal 2600 game do you still get these color smudges? Pitfall or something else with a lot of solid color background would be a good one to use to check.

If it acts like you are moving the right constantly, then that would indicate the RIOT is most likely to blame. That is the large IC on the right hand side closest to the player 2 side controller port. @DrVenkman already mentioned it being possible, but that is also why I was asking if it was a directional issue or fire button issue as that tells us which of the main ICs is most likely to blame. Unless of course we are talking about the 2600 game side of things, in which case I believe the RIOT is the only chip in charge at that point.