-^CrossBow^-

If composite isn't working from the UAV that pretty much tells me there is a problem with the UAV itself. There ins't anything there to flesh out on the wiring. You have a ground on either side of the outputs that you can use. The composite video out is right after the ground attachment out on the left side. Nothing needs adjusted etc and composite out should just work like it does on the s-vid. So yeah unless you have a short on your output wiring, the composite should be functional. I've not messed with this, but I suppose it is also possible that if you have anything shorted on the input side of the UAV that it might produce some weird behavior like this? Most of the time if you don't have it wired up right, you just nothing at all or black n white only or something more obvious.

Well, my adapters weren't anything special. I was just using a female barrel jack on end to allow use of the SMS,Jaguar, Genesis PSUs that was wired to a 7800 plug on the other end. Again, it was to provide a no modification method of using an alternate PSU that might be more common and easy to get vs one specifically made for the 7800 with the right plug on it. Like you I would just cut the wire off my old supply if and when it dies and splice it onto another brick and use it. But not everyone is so inclined to want to do that or feel comfortable doing that. The actual parts cost came to $8 not including the shipping of the parts to me or tax I paid for them. I was including the shipping on them as well. Some labor was spend on each one sure, but I was pretty much selling them at the cost of parts and shipping when I made them. I only made about 20 of them all told. I also made one for myself that allows use of the 5200 PSU on the 7800. I originally made them to limit how many different PSUs I need on my bench when servicing consoles to test stuff.

Far as I know, the DF does not provide any power through the cartridge port at all. I think what is being stated is that the PSU you are using for the DF cart could be introducing the noise since the power from the DF uses the side attached passthrough cable to provide power to the 7800. Using two separate PSUs would isolate if the power supply you are using with the DF is the possible cause or not.

I believe his 12v statement was actually talking about output voltage without a load on it. I know that most of my Genesis PSUs and even my 7800 PSU put out 13 - 14v without a load on them. At the input side of my regulators they measure just over 12v input.

Try powering the DF cart on one supply and use the original 7800 PSU on the 7800 and see if that confirms the PSU being used on the DF cart as the issue or not? Still waiting on my DF to arrive so I'm not able to do any testing of my own with this at the moment.

Now the green I can see and I thought I noticed it in the earlier pics but you didn't mention it so I wasn't sure if that again was a result of a reflection or the moire pattern on the screen. I've not seen anything like that before to be honest and I've installed.... a lot of UAVs into 7800. I have had about 3 bad UAVs over the past 2 years. Two of them I was able to fix myself by just reheating all the solder points to all the components on the boards. But I really haven't seen anything like that. Does it show up on both composite and s-vid? Did you leave the RF modulator intact so you can see if it is present there as well? NM I see you removed the RF modulator in your first set of pics. So... I can't say for sure, but you might try lightly pressing down on parts of the UAV chips to see if anything changes?

I think the idea on this is to allow someone the ability to use any other supply that likely already have on hand. Specifically a Sega power supply or NES power supply as an example? That is my take away on this? Again, back in Sep - Nov of last year I created a simple wire adapter harness that allows you to use a sega PSU on one end and plug it into the 7800 power port on the other. This does the same but doesn't care about the polarity etc and allows for more universal PSUs instead of a specific series.

Mine has a completely different label but it was my personal choice to do that at the time.

Thought he was asking for a replacement AC adapter for a 2600? The 2600 uses a phono tip for the plug. Unless he is asking about a replacement for a 7800 in which case there are some options.

Yeah, I get that is what is being described. I'm just stating I don't see it specifically. I'm guessing my computer monitor isn't showing it to me?

I always solder a single wire to both of the grounds off the chroma and Luma on the s-video installs I do. However, I don't use the same ground that I use on audio and composite. But I do use the ground next to the chroma luma points off the UAV on the right side of the outputs, and use the ground on the left side of the UAV for the audio and composite. Haven't seen any issues doing that. Unless you are talking about something different? Even on my commercial grade Extron AV switcher, most of the grounds are tied together internally.

Nope..I don't see this pink smudge? And part of the issue is that you said the left side, then you said the right side and now left again? Are we talking about 1 or 2 issues here?

Are you talking about the color bleed on the extreme edge of the right side? That is actually pretty normal on a 7800 with a UAV. Mine has it as well and it is mainly from hues of blue and purple on dark backgrounds. It was MUCH worse with the LHE as it did it throughout the entire picture and not just the far edges. If it is something else, then I'm not seeing it?

I think I see it but then that also appears to be part of a reflection from whatever else is in the room. This would be easier to see with the ISO turned down with a dark room because I'm still not sure if I'm seeing it?

Must be my old man eyes, but I'm not seeing exactly what is being talked about?

I've not used one of these myself as I play all of my 2600 stuff on my 7800 but there are these? https://console5.com/store/power-supply-adapter-for-atari-2600-and-atari-dedicated-systems.html

That is why my adapter cables I had to sell for $15 shipped. It cost me nearly 10 in parts alone for everything in such a small quantity and between $3 - $5 to ship them to various places 1st class at the time. That is why I didn't make more even though I wanted to. I had hoped another would buy in larger bulk to take over and offer them to the masses at a lesser price. Aside from C5, I'm not sure of any other places to get them. From what I can tell, even on the DF cart that passthrough cable I think is 3D printed?

I just gave a reply in that thread, but I had heard about something similar being done on some of the more expensive 2600 and 7800 systems being sold with HDMI output. Most of them were using simple composite to HDMI converters, but I heard that there was at least one modder that was doing this using an RPi to convert the signals. I was never given anything more than it was possible at the time. So this isn't a totally new idea as again, it would seem it was already being done in the past. I wish I knew more specifics, but aside from being told it was possible and being done, I wasn't provided anything else to back up those claims. So it interests me to see something essentially doing the same now being brought to light even if on a different platform of hardware.

While I was never provided any specific sources of where the information came from, I was advised as long as 2 or 3 years ago, that some of the HDMI modded 7800s and 2600s that were being sold did in fact use an RPi inside them to convert the signals and provided the HDMI output. It was part of the reason for them being so expensive, but the details of exactly which model, much less the code on how it was being done was never made public and aside from being told it was being done, I was never provided any more details than that. So, it would seem this isn't exactly a new idea but might be the first time that it has been made more public in being possible.

I've never seen or heard of a GG that uses a model 1 adapter? I only ever used Gen2 PSUs for my Gen2 and GGs. I also have one on my 32x. But yeah, I've never heard of a GG using the larger size model 1 PSU?

They don't have as many...but console5 has wire harnesses with the right plug on the ends of them. I was buying up a few when i was making my barrel jack adapters to use with them last year.

Mine has pretty much the whole library on it. Having said that, it is primarily used on the workbench to load up different versions of the diagnostic rom images along with a few games I use for testing controller functions and burn in testing.

Almost positive as @ChildOfCv stated, you have a loose solder joint off the power port. It is only two small pegs the size of component leads that are soldered down into place with two small peg sections on either side that poke through to hold it in place. So just need to heat up the solder points, and use some epoxy for a strong hold, or some hot glue for a likely good enough hold.

On the output wires...just take them out of the green terminal block, and use some shrink tubing around the bundle in that section. It should be thick enough to protect the wiring without issue. I've done that sometimes, but on the entire small corner section of the RF shield, I actually remove that whole segment off cleanly and then apply a little kapton tape around the edge where the break was just to make it that much more smooth. But yeah I'd say you would be fine just adding some shrink about the bundle.

Well that heatshrink would have to be trimmed back so expose what is the left of the capacitor leg before you can press it down to make contact with the mainboard again. Assuming there is enough component lead off that cap to do so. But I don't know as it arrived to me that way in a non working state and I had to replace the 6502 and the RIOT at some point in the past to get it working fully again. Along with the other small stuff I did late like that extra cap I added on the bottom side of the PCB for the graphic corruption on PP2 and BallBlazer.