-^CrossBow^-

As long as you don't plan to use the RF anymore, go for it. But if you do, then I would suggest that you jumper it so that it is stuck on channel 3 or 4...whichever works for your needs.

The inductor has to be removed as part of the power modification anyway. But you can remove the RF modulator if you wish. I tend to keep the RF working when I can, just in case I have issues with the AV mod in the future I know that I can go back to the RF to at least know if the console is at fault, or just the AV upgrade.

First let me state that I don't normally provide systems that I've serviced for sale. However, this is a pieced together 7800 that originally was a main board only that didn't work and was sent to me as a parts board. With a little work I was actually able to get it back to working 100% as it just needed some trace repairs that I performed mostly on the bottom side of the PCB. It has been sitting in the lab as another test system for a few months. I really don't need 2 lab 7800s so this one is now for sale. There have been few upgrades done on the console as well that I will detail below: First let me begin by stating this is NOT a console for display and is very much designed and in a condition to be used. It isn't pretty by any means as the case shell was my old lab 7800's case. But I put that system into a 3D printed shell over a year ago so I was glad to be able to put this fully intact shell assembly to use again. It has scuffs, scratches...and shows it has been moved around a lot and used a lot. But again, it is sound and intact. There is no serial number sticker on the case as I transplanted that to my 3D printed shell sometime back. In addition to the 7800, I'm also including a brand new Retro-bit Saturn composite, s-Video, and audio cable. This 7800 is using one of my newer 10pin mini din Saturn connectors for AV and these cables are what I've been using to test things with and produce good results. I'm also including a modified NES style controller that I originally purchased from @DanthWader many years ago. I've modified this controller to work with remote pause function and as an extra button for the UP direction for games that might use UP for jump for instance. Last, this console will also include a rebuilt Genesis model 1 power supply I did a few years back along with my very last Genesis to 7800 adapter cable that I made and sold also a few years back. Now lets talk about this 7800 in more detail in regards to the repairs it needed and upgrades installed... and can still be added if the buyer wishes: Again, originally this was just a main board to be used for parts, but I was able to repair some trace damage done by the original owner who attempted some mod work on it in the past. With a little bit of wire here and there, I was able to get it back to working 100%. Here is an overview of the bottom of the PCB with most of the repairs that were done being shown. The flipflop IC for controller power on/off had a bad trace. Here is a detail of that repair: The video buffer IC required the most repairs. Here is a detail of that: The power LED didn't light up originally, and this was also due to a pad that the previous owner ripped off the board when trying to change the power LED themselves. This has been repaired and currently has an OEM red LED in it. But this can be changed out if the new owner wishes: The panel buttons like most, weren't working as well as I would have liked. So those were replaced out with my Alps brand higher quality switches I offer. These are now my standard replacement switches over the OEM that I use in the consoles. Additionally, the TIA was replaced as the original contained an IMP branded one that is known to have compatibility issues with 2600 games and generates a poor video output. It now has a Signetics TIA installed. The upgrades done on this console aren't everything that I usually offer but it is the bulk of what most of my clients would normally request. It has a UAV setup, DC-DC switching regulator, and a new remote pause modification installed internally. The UAV setup uses a Brewing academy mount board that I had to repair to get working again. My mount boards that I usually provide are white in color to match the UAV. But TBA uses blue. Same design as my own so functionally there is no difference. I been offering the new 10pin Saturn mini din setup for about 2 months now as a means to provide a near no cut solution for the AV output. The Saturn 10pin setup allows for composite, s-video, and audio to be ran to a single port. As the UAV only provides composite and s-video, that is all that is designed to work from this port. Audio comes from the mount board setup and also ran to the mini din. This allows a set of Saturn composite, s-video, or combo cables to be used. Again, a new AV cable with both composite and s-video is provided with this setup. Here is how the rear of the console looks to give you an idea. Here is a detail of the AV output section where the only modification needed was to widen the RF opening to allow for Saturn cables to pass through and seat fully to the connector. NOTE:- ! As the mini din is soldered into place upside down, you have to insert the cable facing upside down as well. This means that the flat side of the cable plug should be facing up. Although the mini din jack appears to be opposite this setup, this is how it works. A DC-DC voltage regulator was installed to replace the original linear style regulator. The advantage to this is a great reduction in overall heat inside the console as the heat sink isn't needed with this setup along with a nice steady +5v to the system. And all being done with only half the usual power current draw required. A remote pause feature has been added to this 7800. It is only the 2nd 7800 I've done this with besides my daily driver. This kit is designed for use with a Sega Master System, but the SMS and 7800 share a similar pause setup so the kits for the SMS can be made to work in the 7800 as well. Because there is a slight possibility that the logic this uses could cause issues with AtariVox or other similar adapters. I've redone the channel select switch on the back to turn this remote pause feature on or off as needed. That said, I've not experienced any issues with my Atarivox and games I've played. But as there is always a chance, the switch ability was wired into place. And that is pretty much it. Here are some example pics I took with my phone in the lab earlier today showing both the composite (small crt) and the s-video (larger LCD) output to give you an idea on what to expect. The same type of Retro-bit AV cables were used in this pictures as I use one in my lab. The mount boards feature a chroma timing fix on them and this helps better align colors on 7800 games. But is also properly inverts the color signal in the process allowing Tower Toppler to be adjusted to look better than it normally would through a UAV on its own. And there it is. Again, this isn't something I commonly do but I also don't need as many 7800s as I've currently got right now so I figured it is best to find this repaired ready to be played system a new forever home. This setup has now Sold! I can also provide a few more options on this console before sending it to its new owner if they wish. These are the additional options I can provide on this console for extra: - Different color power LED - Audio input option for use with AtariVox - Kiloparsec BIOS Send me a PM if this 7800 is something you are interested in or would like to know more regarding additional modifications that can be added prior to shipping it out.

I finally got around to replacing the caps in my early made Neo-Geo top loader yesterday. These take a while due to how many caps there are in total across the 3 main boards in the system. The controller board has a cap as well but just one so that isn't anything major. But the AV and CD driver boards have quite a few. I also cleaned it inside and out but sadly, the basement smell still seems pretty baked into the plastics. Especially the maroon inner plastic spacer for the AV and control boards. Still, it looks better than it has since I got it from Yahoo auctions Japan last year. I installed an SD loader into pretty much as soon as I got it. It is awesome as it also allows similar features to that of the Unibios for the AES/MVS setups. Most of the capacitors to be replaced are located on the AV board. The Console5 cap kit for this, includes actual special labeled audio grade capacitors to be used on this board. I don't typically like to recap the CD driver boards as I've had 'problems' come up in the past when doing this. While it shouldn't be an issue, changing out the caps can change things electrically enough through the driver board to cause the CD adjustments to no longer be quite correct. But I've not had this be an issue with NGCD units thankfully. There are a lot of capacitors overall that get replaced and some of the traces, especially on the AV board, tend to lift when desoldering the old caps in the process. But it is looking better than it has since I got it about a year ago and is one less console in my collection to have to mess with for a long time.

Pins being bent out is normal on the 2 port unit. Won't hurt or affect if you pop them back into socket, but that was done at the factory. And yes getting about 15v without a load is pretty normal. What do you read on the voltage on the MJE210s? That might be more like 12v coming from the input side. But I would start with replacing out the 6502 given the green screen condition. Although it could be just about any of the ICs, but I tend to start with the CPU first.

Most likely part of the effect of the adjustment I did on the pic to try and bring out more contrast and remove reflection that was showing up in the tube screen. My PVM is small with only like a 9" screen so I have to be pretty close to it in order to get any pics of it. I could get a direct screen capture but as this 7800 has a UAV in it, the colors wouldn't be quite right anyway especially through modern capture equipment.

@Kirkland I actually did try and get my scope to show those other readings However, either my scope isn't fast enough or something because I could NOT get my scope to look anything like that. Best I could do was the first diagram where I was kinda getting a square wave from it but it had a very rounded rise and seemed to trail on much longer in time than what those pics show. But, I do wonder if this is because I was using my 7800 with the STC and plugs on it. It was the closest console I had open to be worked on at the time. I will see if I can crack open a 2600 and give it another try later today.

This is something I've messed with on and off again over the years. After I discovered the controller pause modification you can do on the Sega Master System, it got me to thinking if something similar was possible on the 7800. And yes, it totally is as similar to the SMS, the pause line on the 7800 is always active and only when pulled low to ground does it trigger the pause. So I had played with it a bit using home made perfboard setups etc. But it wasn't really as useful or needed on the 7800 as it is on the SMS so I hadn't really invested much into it. For those that might not be aware, the Master System also uses a 2-button controller like the 7800, but the SMS also has a pause button on the console itself just like the 7800. The difference it that many SMS games actually use the pause on the console as a 3rd button to pull up inventory or stats..etc. in quite a few games. As a result, playing those games can be a bother when you have to get up and press the pause on your console each time you want to access those extra functions in the game. So naturally a modification for the SMS was going to come about to allow a person to add a 3rd button to their controller and along with a simple logic circuit in the console, you can make impossible controller combinations trigger functions inside the system. In the case of the SMS it is using an extra button to trigger either an Left+Right direction combo, or Up+Down depending on how you wire it up. That in turn is fed to a logic OR gate so that when you press that button on the controller it sends that impossible combination to the chip and that in turn will trigger the reset function. The 7800 sharing essentially the same setup here can also be done in the same manner. However, due to the 2600 and 7800 internal logic regarding the paddles controllers; you can't use the Left+Right combo because it will confuse the console and sometimes thing paddles are plugged in. But aside from that, it is the same. Consoles Unleashed in the UK sells a lot of excellent quality modification and upgrade kits for various consoles. One of those they have the most kits for, is the Sega Master System. They provide their own pause button modification kit that is really well made and looks nice. Well, I ordered up a few several weeks back and got them in yesterday. I immediately went to work on installing one into my personal 7800 as I have 2 controllers that I've modified in the past to be able to use this setup. Here is what that looks like: As you can see it is a tiny PCB that will fit in lots of places on the 7800 main board. Again, it is designed for the SMS but will work just as well in the 7800. In the pic above you can see that I'm getting power and ground from the bypass cap just to the right of the 6502. The Player 1 Up and Dn connections are at the top of those two resistors right next to that cap. So you have half of what you need right there in that spot. Above is where the rest of the connections in my setup are going. The small blue wire that runs by itself to that single point below the RIOT IC is the reset trigger. This is an unused via that is present on every single 7800 main board revision I've see and always in this same spot. I assume it was there for testing but is also makes a great place to attach the PB pad from that board to trigger the pause function. The other two blue wires are going into cleaned out unused vias so they pass back down on the bottom of the board to attach to a similar set of resistors for the player 2 Up and Down connections. I did it this way because I didn't want to trim the RF shielding. The resistors are outside of the shielding for the player 2 controller port next to the Reset switch. And this is where the two wires come back through to the bottom of the PCB to attach to the resistors mentioned above. BTW, the Up and Down combo wiring attaches to Pins 1 and 2 on the controller ports. And that's it! Now with this in place, I can use my modified controllers to remote activate the pause on the 7800 console from either controller port. One thing to mention about using this kit from Console's Unleashed... You have to wire both controller ports! The reason is because instead of using an OR logic in this setup, they are using a NOR logic chip. As a result, the controller ports are always registering high. If you don't connect up the second set of wires, then the logic on the pause board in the kit ends up triggering the pause constantly. It needs to see that +5 from the port pins in order to maintain the logic. So if you only wanted one port to activate this, you need to use a different logic IC. Also, the kits from consoles unleashed has extra stuff I don't normally need as it comes with additional small PCBs to mount a 3rd button to and provide as a template to drill the hole into your SMS controllers for mounting it. An excellent touch to be sure, but I don't like the SMS control pads compared to other controllers and wouldn't be using them on a 7800 anyway. But they aren't that expensive and I might need those boards in the future so who knows? I might go into details on what is required on the controller side someday for this modification to work as there is work required in the controllers. I think I've covered it elsewhere online but might do that as a follow up someday. Here is a link to Consoles Unleashed in the UK and again, they have some excellent quality kits on hand to help modders and tech with making their projects look that more professional and easier to install. https://www.consolesunleashed.com/ View the full article

I have a Jr with the same setup but the s-video wasn't very good and I stuck with the composite output on it. I'm staying with using UAVs in my setups since the pricing is the same when you factor in the shipping from over sears for the Cleancomp vs the UAVs I can get here in the States and in order to get the clean comp to provide a comparable picture on NTSC consoles, requires some additional components to be removed from the system. The UAV doesn't require any components to be removed. I do like that the Cleancomp has a simple install just soldering to the bottom of the TIA pins, but that also makes it more difficult to replace the TIA in the future if your TIA isn't in a socket since you would have to remove the CleanComp as a result and I've had many boards like that end up getting damaged when trying to remove them afterwards. So there is pros and cons to all here.

I only have a Tink2x SCART myself since I use an OSSC in my main AV setup in the game room. I believe thought, that if you have it working well for the OSSC, then it should be fine with the Tink series of products also. As for the Morph 4K, I don't know anyone personally with one and it hasn't been something I've looked at since I'm still only using a 1080P display in my game room. 1080P at the size it is in my small game room still seems perfect for me so not sure when or if I will make the 4k jump. Likely when the current TV goes out since 4k is all you can pretty much buy these days.

Check the voltage output on both of your voltage regulators. They essentially provide power to half the console components each.

Auction details on my ebay app state this is for a digital copy to be emailed to you. So they are charging $1 for something you can download for free from several places already.

If the CD function worked a bit better I would mind this, but yes... this is actually why I've not even been using my JagGD much at all is because I don't like the idea of having to remove my actual CD mech off all the time.

It isn't currently being made anymore. I was advised that the components to make it either weren't available for good pricing or couldn't be sourced and it needs to be redesigned with new components. This is somewhat mentioned at the top of that page in a blue banner.

This is correct along with the video playback files I have for Bad Apple and Dragon Lair follow a similar formatting for streaming data as needed off the SDcard.

Nice! Although it looks like the PSU is sealed shut so the easiest option would be to cut the cable somewhere and then swap out everything around that way. As for the 12v vs 10v. It would work as I'm pretty sure the voltage regulators in the system can handle it, but the added heat could be a concern as I don't believe they have much sinkage on those VRs. Could be a good candidate to try swapping out the +12 regulator with a DC-DC switching type as that could handle the added input voltage and not have any extra heat to worry about.

Well, I have a period correct B&K 1474 that I use and these were about the best I could grab from it showing those signals and a few other pics to see if these might help? I could get direct screen caps on the STC screens but the color bars screen wouldn't match through an LCD quite right and this was about the best I was able to snap from my little PVM in the lab. Yes, these are adjusted to bring out some of the contrast and lower the brightness down to make them more easy to see. Also some doctoring done to remove glare and background reflections on the tube. Feel free to use these if you want or let me know if you want me to try and get something better?

Yeap.. I don't use it all the time but I've gotten quite a few good deals (I feel) doing it. I use Buyee.jp as my proxy service to browse and bid etc. The auction I won for my controller as an example was about $30 shipped. It does have some small scuffs on it that was shown accurately in the pics of the auction. Aside from that little bit of cosmetic flaw, the controller works great! So that is one suggestion for something like that and if you use a proxy service like Buyee, or Sendico, then you can save some money that way vs eBay.

I ended up buying a new repro PSU from Stone Age Gamer over the summer for mine. And I got my NGCD controller through my proxy on JPN Yahoo Auctions for about half the cost I usually see them go for on ebay and that was with the shipping and fees.

👍

I messed with this a bit but ran into some issues mainly with my CD games being played from the SDcard. They load up and work, but after about 20min in or so, the audio will suddenly start to play with a bad stutter and the entire game comes to a crawl while it does this. It will sometime recover from this and start to play normally again. But in all cases, once this happens, then the game will soft lock and the only option at that point is to end the game through the A-DUO menu. So I really hope a jailbreak with the save states is able to get released as that would at least provide a work around for this since folks could save state as they play and not have to restart from the beginning after getting a lot of progress through a game.

If the Doc says its good then that is good enough for me. I just placed my order for one before they possibly can't be gotten anymore. I like that is comes with some game maps already in it along with passcodes. That means I wouldn't have to print that stuff out myself or look it up and have it all in one spot. Nice...

Yeah the Rad2x has a switch to turn that on/off. Usually it is off by default, but it looks like their Rad2x arrived with it turned on.

Had a 7800 come into the ITC lab to get refurbished, and upgraded with a few things. Among the updates was to get a UAV plus mount board setup as I've been doing for over a year now. This is where it is important that you always...ALWAYS test the current status of electronics before you dive in and start doing stuff. A rule I didn't follow so what I discovered after putting all this work in, isn't something I could verify was an issue before the work started. I had been told that it was working 100% without issue as it was the daily driver 7800 for the owner. So what was the issue I discovered? Well, after installing the UAV setup and the 10pin mini din AV connector to test the system. I saw something odd when I ran Ballblazer for burn in testing. What I saw was odd additional background graphic information on the far left and far right sides of the screen that I'd never seen before? More specific...this is what Ballblazer looked like: So if you look on the left and right hand side of the image, you will see what looks like the blue in the sky being extended out along with some burgundy like brown/red below that. Now oddly enough the 5200 version of the game through a UAV actually looks kinda like this, but on the 7800 this isn't normal. Here is a closeup detail of the effect and you can see it is more like a checkerboard pattern within those extra graphics being shown. Making matters more confusing was that NOT everything had this effect going on. Ballblazer seemed to show it the worst but any game using a colored backgrounds would have this kind of effect going on. But anything using a black ground was fine as this color hue test screen shows from the 7800 utility program: I did figure out pretty quickly that the issue had to be something with the Maria IC because this same effect wasn't happening on 2600 games and was only present on 7800 titles. So a few days of delay (Waiting on a new heater for my desoldering gun), I removed the original Maria IC, installed a pair of new 24pin sockets (As I don't have 48pin on hand). And installed a different Maria pulled from a parts donor 7800. And what did ball blazer look like after that? It worked! So yes after nearly 150 Atari 7800s that I've worked on, this was a first. My guess is that this 7800 always had this issue but as it was mainly used on a CRT and was only present on 7800 games, it likely wasn't noticed or the owner simply thought it was normal. In any event the original Maria was working in that the actual game play area on the screen looked normal otherwise. But the blanking to mask the extra graphics junk on the sides, wasn't working properly on this Maria and only by swapping it out with another was the issue fully resolved. View the full article

It has been some time since I messed with this but I believe in the case of both Krazy Shootout and Mountain King you just get a black screen. In the case of the Pitfall, I want to say that it does come up but you won't be able to control Pitfall Harry.