-^CrossBow^-

I added a 100nf cap inline of the A15 off the CPU to Maria and eventually to the bios to correct the graphical glitching. The only other thing that might have been done on yours ( let me check the pics of the board real quick...)... and yes confirmed. Capacitor 64 was clipped out of circuit on yours to improve compatibility with Activision games and some homebrew demos. But as I received your 7800 mainboard separately from rest of the case, it actually arrived to me already clipped. I actually de-solder one leg of the cap out instead of clipping it, but that would be the only difference. If you wanted to or felt comfortable with it, you could certainly take off the shielding, remove the small piece of black heat shrink tubing that covers the capacitor, and then apply a dab of solder down onto where the leg was clipped to but it back into circuit to see if it makes a difference? Although now that I look at the pic more closely, it appears that whomever had this mainboard and tried to repair it before me, shrunk the entire cap instead of just on the end allow it to be pulled off easier. Hmm.. You could even just open it up and with everything plugged in, press down on that cap so it makes contact and then power it up to see if it makes a difference? The spot in question is circled in this photo below of your mainboard in your 7800 I did.

Yeap, because there has to be some difference in the MD1 va6 units that will boot and those that won't. Could be a factory bodged in component like a cap or something. Or possibly different brand or speed of the vram etc? What is known is that on the MD1 va6 or any other MD1 that doesn't seem to work. Nearly all of them get hung up on the copyright screen just after the TMSS messages on them. So it has to be at that point is where the game is doing the hardware detection checks for a SegaCD, 32x.. and then boots. Since the game locks on the copyright on some of these models, there must be something that makes the game think there is something attached like the SegaCD that actually isn't and it is trying to initialize getting stuck in a loop.

Well his board could only be used on Intellivisions that didn't need the internal power supply board. He didn't give specifics, but I'm assuming he has a replacement transformer that provides the needed voltages already and doesn't require the board as most North American ones likely would. I haven't figured out how I will do any of the mounting when I get to that point. I prefer to keep the RF in place as an additional video out for troubleshooting purposes whenever possible and have never been too fond of having to glue the AV connectors to the console. I might see if I can find a spot to solder my 9-pin AV outs (that I wil llikely be using instead) onto the mainboard of the Intelly itself. That would likely require that the larger black RF shield be permanently removed since it is kinda hard to cut through as compared to the much thinner RF shields I'm used to on the CV and Atari systems. Also where to mount the RGB boards is another question. I might just 3M velcro them to the PCB as I do with most of my AV boards. With that larger RF removed there would be plenty of room for that.

Ah, looks like your kit came with the diode for the model 1 lynx as that uses a through hole version. But that will work and I've done it for quick tests. Did you have a game inserted at the time you did that video above? Because what is being shown is you can just make out the portions of where it says Insert Game being displayed. I've only seen that happen when the cartridge isn't making good contact. You might try and jumper pins 31 and 33 to force that to always be on so that you either get a game to load up, or you will always see the Insert Game message. But it looks like an issue with poor contacts on the cartridge and cart slot now.

Sorry, just saw this. I wouldn't have been able to answer your question anyway, because once I got everything setup and working the way I was happy with, I've not touched it or updated OPL since. I also only have rips of my actual library on my PS2 and it doesn't have any PS1 games in it as I've not bothered with doing that.

Luckily the SMDs on the Lynx aren't that bad as there is room around the components at least. To remove the zener you only need to use a chisel tip on the iron, and apply lots of flux and use a lot of solder to essentially have it form around the iron and both sides of the diode. It should basically just move right off the pads at that point. I do the same with SMD resistors. The 3906s actually aren't that difficult either. If you use the same method of just putting a lot of flux and solder, you will find that enough heat builds up for those to come off as well.

Yes it is D13 to replace. I see you replaced the mosfet but did you also go ahead and replace the two small SMD 3906 transistors as well at Q7 and Q8 locations? So you are able to get it to turn on/off jumpering the pins off U6? I missed that part I guess. Then it is likely the flex at that point causing your issues, but you should be able to use a DMM in continuity mode to verify if the traces are actually worn through or not from the contact point where the button pressed to the end of the mylar flex where it plugs into the Lynx PCB connector.

Nope, batteries and normal DC require the flex to switch the state of the lynx as on/off through the U6 IC chip that was mentioned before.

Yeap that PCB shot of the US Genesis release looks just like mine and the last few digits on the masked rom also match mine. So I would say the cart you have isn't a Dune cart and it most likely isn't a Dune masked rom either. BTW, the other cart you posted with the glass looking component on the left side of the rom chip? That is actually an early surface mount capacitor inside a larger glass tube so it could be soldered in like a normal axial capacitor of the day.

If only the USPS could be as fast with packages sent a few weeks ago as what they are able to do with newer sent stuff. Yeah, @the_crayon_king your kit arrived in the mail today already?! Not sure when I can get to testing as I have at least 3 consoles on the way that have to be finished up first before I can dedicate time to test this.

Sorry, I had meant to do this last night but got busy on other stuff. Here are some pics of my Dune cart. The actual cap that goes on the right is indeed a 47µf 16v radial electrolytic cap. However, it isn't a resistor on the other side but another cap. A green colored 22nf ceramic disc cap in fact. Or at least that is what I show to have installed on my working Dune cart. However, I've noticed your PCB is laid out a little differently and the what I can make out of the last few digits/characters on the cart you have posted on the rom don't match with mine. Is yours a PAL copy? If so, it might be different components?

Pretty sure the SCART cables I have, have 220µf caps inside the SCART housing already along with the resistors. In reality, the resistors being left on would likely work still, but just result in a darker picture then intended as that is what happens on the TMS-RGB for the CV if I don't remove the 75R off the output lines. In fact, I wonder something else now... Will let you know what I guess when I've had a time to install these kits into my Sears intelly.

What's your question?

Nice! So now you know where to focus your attention on getting it working. Now, try changing out that diode since I can see in the pics it looks like the original is still in place? Unless you have done that since those first pics and I missed it? And yes if the flex is bad, that will need to be replaced. Best Electronics in California does sell them or at least they did. I bought about 6 of them 2 years ago and now that I think about it...I might need to get a few more soon. Hmm...

5.43 is on the high side and the closer to +5 you can get the better to be on the safe side. I know the lynx itself will run on as low as 4.8v as I've had many only put out that much when doing the McWill LCD upgrades on them. Find a more modern switching adapter that puts out a solid +5 and you should be okay for testing.

Not sure where you ordered it from, but I ordered my Astro City Mini directly from Amazon.jp . I also just ordered the control pad from there on the afternoon of the 28th, and I kid you not it arrived on Dec 31st! So at least for me, importing directly from Amazon.jp has been the best option for me.

No the flex isn't needed for that. Again if you attach +5 directly in that manner, and have a game plugged into the cartridge slot and the cartridge slot it making good contact with the game, then it will just power on as soon as power is applied to that capacitor. I use a bench supply for this purpose, but an old cell phone charger that puts out +5 could be hacked to do the same thing if you had one handy. It won't tell you exactly where the issue or problem is, but you can at least rule out any major logic chip issues quickly. If you just want to see something legible on the screen, then you do as @karri suggested and you solder a jumper wire on pins 31 and 33. Then when you apply power, you would get the Insert Game message like the Lynx 1 units do.

If you just want to test the main logics of the lynx you can use a bench power supply or other +5v 1A source to directly power the lynx and essentially bypass the power stage. Solder wires to the leads of capacitor C41 in the upper left of the board. Attach your +5 source to those leads (Paying attention to the polarity of the power supply or adapter you are using and matching them to the polarity of the capacitor!). If you have a game inserted, then as soon as you plug in the adapter, the Lynx will power on and hopefully start the game you inserted. If not, then it it likely one of the main IC chips at that point. If it does power on and work, then you know you can isolate your troubleshooting within the power stage section. On the Lynx 1 is is C39 near the speaker to do the same thing.

The blinking light win does not suck. I've had mine for a few years now and while it is true that the games are hard to remove, this has more to do with two designs on the BLW that they could likely fix but from some reason, haven't. The first issue is that the new tray slot that the carts go into might be a bit too tight on the sides so the carts don't have any lateral movement at all when inserted. But it can also mean that some carts are more difficult to insert or remove as a result since they can get caught up along the sides of the tray. The second issue and the one that would fix most peoples issues regarding the BLW, is the height and how far back the carts seat into the new connector. Currently, the carts go in pretty much flush to the inside as the originals did. Although this isn't needed because as we know, the toaster NES has a good inch+ of space between that inner portion and the front lid. So if the cart didn't insert quite so far, it would give you more space to grip the card more easily. The second issue, is the height. If they would just lower it a bit, you would again have more room to grip the cart a bit easier to get it out. Overtime and use, the BLW will work more loose making it easier so it is really only an issue in the beginning. But yeah, just some slight design changes to the actual replacement tray assembly would help with this.

Well, I will certainly be able to let you both know how the kits turn out on the OSSC. If that doesn't work, I do have a SCART RGB to component converter box I can use although the results from that in the past were very lack luster on my setup. But that would be enough to at least get a signal to a display in this case.

Found a bug but it has happened only once so far. I was playing the game in BupSystem. I had just completed the first demo level and got the Artifact. Started playing the second world where I activated the one switch. But then the crossfire missiles on the screen after the laser gates got me. I start back at the beginning as normal. But Infernal Machine screen this time, I moved down too far into the lava and the game froze with a black n white screen similar to pausing it. Only, it wasn't paused? Could only force a hard reset from BubSystem at that point. Pic below is where the ship was when the game froze up and locked.

You likely could but why are wanting to remove the heatsink? So that you can apply it to a new chip? I think it would be easier and better to get a replacement heatsink for the replacement chip. I get my heatsinks for the VDPs from Console5 along with thermal epoxy they also sell in a small tube. It works really well too. Heatsink: https://console5.com/store/dip40-super-heat-sink-glue-on-thermal-epoxy-style-dip-40.html Thermal epoxy: https://console5.com/store/thermally-conductive-heat-sink-adhesive-glue-gd9980-10-grams-10g.html

The heatsink is attached using a thermal conductive epoxy. I have a small tube of the stuff myself that I use for attaching sinks to chips that didn't have them originally or I've had to do it with some early revisions CVs sent to me for service work that didn't have sinks on their VDPs.

I only just found out about the pre-order so I've pre-ordered and paid as well! Looks fantastic!

It is based on the exact same design as all the others. You can even see it list it is based on Tim's design on the silkscreen in the lower portion of the PCB. So, yeah just the same as the others laid out differently using all SMD stuff.