-^CrossBow^-

Well, the UAV can be used in a 5200 with great results as well! The audio you should be okay on and won't need to mess with it. The UAV doesn't have anything on it for audio so that has to be handled separately anyway.

No you should be okay assuming that the audio resistors of R5 and R6 are still in place? The taps for the UAV are taken at the bottom of the resistors so it doesn't really need them in place. Specifically, the issue you are seeing is because of the two chroma (color) signals from the 2600 TIA side and the 7800 Maria side being combined together. This is only seen on 7800 games. The older LHE mod suffered from this as well, and the only real fix on that, was to wire in a switch to disable the color input from the TIA when playing 7800 games. The UAV isolates the two better to help prevent that.

Well one of the packages I waiting in line to hand to the clerk to scan and give me the receipt of acceptance. I have it here in front of me. I sent that package to California on the 21st of December as a 3-day priority package. As of this morning, it still shows NO activity other than the acceptance. And naturally the client who is waiting on their system hasn't received it either. The other was a system sent to me over a week ago as Priority but I haven't received it and in this case, the client failed to get the tracking information from the P.O. when they sent it, so they will have to do the leg work on that one if I don't receive it soon. I was advised by a local business that ships daily, that they were told from their postman, that the issue at least here in my town. Is that they have so many bins of packages to get to, that the oldest stuff is in the back and the newest stuff is in the front, and they literally can't get to the stuff in the back until they have worked through the stuff in the front. As a result, newer stuff is getting out quicker vs the older that was sent prior to Christmas.

No joke! I've got at least two systems in limbo right now that haven't seen status updates since they were accepted by the USPS nearly 3 weeks ago!!

Not a bad price at all for repairing the board. I can't be sure unless I take my cartridge apart to look and I'm willing to do that later if I can remember. But most of the carts seem to use a 47µf 6.3v or above filter cap in them. So very common and anything of that value should work provided it will physically fit in. Not sure on the resistor value but again, I can take my actual Dune cart apart later this evening and get those exact values.

Well, I was pretty much just an Adventure computer game player so I didn't play with simulations much. I never played Gunship 2000 as at the time I didn't have a PC strong enough to play it and once I did, I likely forgot about the game or wasn't interested. Point is, I've never played Gunship so I'm not familiar with the game series. I did play a TON of Red Storm Rising, Airborne Ranger, and F-19 Stealth Fighter when they were new back in the day though. I will look around and see if something looks out of place on the menu station screen. But if it was some animation etc that happens, I likely would have thought that was normal and not so much an EE. Oh...I do seem to recall there being a switch or two on both of the two additional levels? But I assume they aren't actually doing anything yet?

I guess I should comment additionally besides the fact that I was able to get the artifact. I did notice that the missiles that come after you seem to have a much more consistent speed. In the previous build I was playing on my actually 7800, there were a few parts where those missiles would seem to come at you incredibly fast! And then you might come through again and they were slower this time around? So it is much less frustrating to know how they will move being more consistent. I also really like the additional sprite changes and enhancements! Especially that lava stage. I set the ship down on that little platform when you first drop down an just watched it for several minutes. I didn't catch onto the easter egg that I guess is in the main station menu selection so I will need to go back and look at that more. I did notice the glitched out text at firs when looking at the credits section but I figured that is normal? Most of the other sections don't appear to have any implementation yet and are just placeholders for what it to come.

The blue is normal. Not sure exactly what it is, but many sega carts have it covering over the vias on the board. Likely some sort of conformal coating perhaps to prevent corrosion through the vias and ultimately damaging the traces like Tengen carts are known to do.

I got the artifact, but noticed back on the station screen when launching, this isn't acknowledged yet I'm guessing? The other two worlds look great as well with all the animated details of the lava and water. I do miss those check points though...hehe.

I sent the original screen with the Lynx back to the client after it was finished up, but no, it wasn't working properly. It would light up a display, but was showing lines of corrupted graphic elements that would change as I tried to do stuff in the game. But nothing visible looked anything like the game in operation.

I did not. Only because I was able to confirm that this particular model of the Lynx 2 does in fact use the same LCD screen that the model 1 uses, only with a ribbon cable design change to fit in the socket unlike the original being soldered onto the main PCB. Since learning that I figured, that only a Lynx 1 screen would work. I ended up installing a McWill Lynx 2 screen in it and having to apply the Lynx 1/2 jumper in place on the LCD board and also wire it to the TPR point instead of the RES pin. I don't believe Benn has released a Lynx 1 kit as yet has he?

Well, the most difficult part would be soldering new legs to what is left of the originals sticking out of the dip packages on the corners. The resistor and cap can be gotten easy enough to replace out but it would take some work to get new legs or at least some component leads soldered back in for the main IC to work.

Just placed my order off Ebay for one to test with. As I've stated before, I will be using mine with a 9-pin mini din as I have those on hand and breakout boards to solder onto as well for them. I might end up adding additional switches on my testing to try the different options to see what may or may not work best. Thanks for making these up! I also have another kit coming from France I believe on the way, but not sure the status of that one in transit.

I will see if I can get time to try this out in an A7800 or something later. My DF cart isn't quite ready yet so I can't test on my stuff here until later in the month at the earliest I would imagine. But first I've got two Lynx to finish today.

That explains why Buck Rogers is a mess through my setup. My Extron locks everything to a 60hz output. So anything that deviates from this is going to roll. As the others are still putting out a 60hz signal, my extron is able to deal with it fine since it converts all resolutions to 640x480 output.

Yes I recall an earlier thread started by @blainelocklair where he noted the issue with ESB and his Tink setup and was asking if it was an issue with the UAV or something else. Does the Tink2x Pro resolve these issues? Again, the only game I've found so far (I've certainly not tested everything...), is Buck Rogers to really give me any issues on my AV setup. Game itself plays fine, but the title screen on my setup is a massive vertical scrolling mess.

That audio cassette storage is perfect for keeping ones loose Sega Genesis carts organized. I should know as I have a few serving that purpose.

Starmaster works just fine on my UAV 7800 through AV setup. But again, my Extron is much more tolerant of these odd signals when it sends them to the OSSC. The ONLY game I can say for sure goes haywire is the title screen on Buck Rogers. That is a vhold mess through Extron on my setup. But if I connect up straight RF to the TV it doesn't happen. So yeah...just depends on the games.

I actually had a lynx model 2 that had an issue with Right always registering. When I opened it up, I found that the actual rubber around the carbon dot contact pad for the right side had basically torn and wasn't springing the button off the bad properly. So the carbon pad was constantly touching causing the issue. I had some spares on hand and replaced the entire d-pad rubber contact pad to correct the issue. A different Lynx II I worked on had an issue with the Left direction being difficult to engage. That was an odd one and eventually the issue was that the d-pad had to be installed with one side a certain way in order for the directions to all work correctly. As a result of that, I've started to make the top direction on each d-pad prior to removal so I know exactly how it was installed when I have to put back in place from cleaning, installing an LCD upgrade...etc.

Forgot to mention that what I use to mount the UAV boards is section of 3M velcro. I have the stuff that can hold like 10LBs or something crazy but I use it because I don't need much of it to hold the thing in place. I use like a half inch by inch piece on the BIOS or one of the RAM chips and then use basically a 1"x1" piece on the UAV itself on the underside. It won't stick 100% to the components that are on the underside preventing totally smooth surface, but if you solder the wires from the resistors to the UAV first, and then trim them all down to be flush with UAV PCB, then that part is smooth enough for the other side of the velcro to hold very well! Been doing that on all of my installs for about 4 years now. This way it holds exactly where needed and isn't coming loose on its own, but yet with some work and a slot hand, you can remove all of the velcro tape off the chips without much residue left behind if you decide you want to move the UAV to a different machine or remove it completely..etc.

Yes the audio connection should be grounded. I've not noticed the audio causing any interference with anything but even if it only affects the RF, do you really care at that point too much? On the output wires and the RF shielding what you need to do is fine some small files to smooth out the edges of the cut you made. In addition to that you should put some shrink tubing around the output wires right where they go through the opening as additional protection for them. However, there was a much easier way to do this. That section just to the right of where you made the hole? Well, you can get a good set of pliers to grip that section with and then bend the metal up and down along the seam and it will eventually break off very clean in most cases. That is what I do on my installs for clients. I don't have a concerto but my understanding is that there is a socket for the pokey, so the replacement should just go right into the socket. Naturally you have to pay attention and put the notched ends matching. In the future, to remove IC chips like this, you need to first add more solder to each pin. Yes add solder as it helps to melt the solder on the whole pin when you then try and use at minimum a manual solder pump or better, find someone with a de-soldering iron such as myself or someone near you to get the chip out safely. @Nathan Strum where do you get those S-video jacks? I'm always in the market for replacements and new styles to use and I like the way that one looks.

I need everyone on these forums whom I've done service work on their 7800s and plan to purchase or have purchased or are on pre-order for a Dragon Fly cart to send me a PM so I can provide information regarding a possible issue with your 7800 working properly with the DF carts as the DF cart was designed. Please make sure in the PM to me that you put your full name so I can lookup your 7800 information and pics I took to see if your are possibly affected or not. Thank you and I do apologize ahead of time as I don't mean to scare anyone, but simple let my clients be in the know. -Jesse Ivory Tower Collections

Well having not been present when this all went down it is all guesswork. They do fail because after all they are nearly 40 years old at this point. There is also a slow blow fuse inside that is soldered down that can blow. But that usually only happens if there is a short in the power somewhere and they don't usually buzz when it happens.

Another member posted about them having recently gotten one of the NOS ones from The Brewing Academy and how it was humming. But theirs was still working they were just concerned about the hum. I've got several supplies that do this and while annoying, it is also actually normal. The hum is due to the transformer perhaps being loose in the housing internally. I've got a Intellivision I just got working again over the weekend that has a slight audible hum coming from the transformer inside it but it is putting out all the correct voltages etc and working normally otherwise.

Yeap as @DrVenkman stated want the basic kit as you will still have to solder in the wires from the UAV to the required points along the resistors above the Maria IC. That way you also can place the UAV pretty much where ever convenient.