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-^CrossBow^-

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Posts posted by -^CrossBow^-

  1. Posted

    Mindfield:

     

    Don't get me wrong..Z26 works in XP with no problems...except one. No sound!!!

     

    The legacy drivers for the SBLive under XP simply seem to not work...period! In fact I can't really get anything to work with sound under XP in the Dos console.

     

    As for StellaX yeah...it works fine under XP but I do miss the resolution modes I could play under in Z26.

  2. Posted

    When I was using Win98 and ME I was a straight Z26 user all the way!!!

     

    With NT systems and now WinXP...I can only pretty much use StellaX.

     

    It doesn't bother me as to which one is best these days as I have tried out about every major rom dump there is and played all the games enough to have a mental list of what I really wish to seek out first etc...

     

    Speaking of which...I need to find me a H.E.R.O. and Secret Quest carts next...

  3. Posted

    Just a thought...

     

    I would think the Digital Press guys would have several protos of ROTLA for the 2600. Perhaps someone with some pull with them...Scott..or Matt might be able to talk to Joe or someone over there at the Digital Press and see if they will dump theirs...or have them sent out to be dumped..

  4. Posted

    Tom:

     

    As for you Alligator People you have...my belief is that I don't think 20th century fox would have used Atari branded PCBs for any of thier stuff. I could be wrong of course but it seems unlikely. One sure fire way to figure this out...is to scan this sucker and post it here at the Age message boards. The real experts can look at it then and tell you.

  5. Posted

    quote
    Weirder STILL is that I can still sell the star raiders games without the controllers and people don't mind...

     

    So your the one!!!

     

    hehe...J/K I actually think it is wrong to offer Star Raiders online through Ebay and not provide the controller. Still if people buy it..what can you do? The shops around here have multiples of Star Raiders and only one controller. I tell them that they shouldn't sell it unless the individual buying it has a controller already. Well, that was a mistake..because now those places have like only 1 or 2 keypad controllers and they sell them seperate for like $9 bucks!! Needless to say...the StarRaiders carts keep getting sold. But not the controllers to go with.

     

    Some people...

  6. Posted

    I can actually be found in almost all of those chat programs at any given time. I actually am more partial to ICQ and Yahoo pager but since work actually required me to get an AOL AIM account I am there as well. Also I can be found in IRC almost everyday during the day at the #rgvc channel in EFnet or Undernet...can't remember right off hand since it changes almost monthly it seems...

     

    However if we had a cgi or java based chat here I can say with a very high degree of certainty that I would be there.

  7. Posted

    NE146 and Chaz,

     

    I thank thee most heartily for your suggestions. My apprehention (sp?) is that I am afraid that in the course of trying to fix both of these sticks that I have which give me the exact same results on those two games btw, that I will in fact screw up the control for the other games. As I stated there is really only these two games giving me fits. I might try the pot adjustment on the 5200 main board later. But that will be later. I am still awaiting for my SW:TAG for the 5200 and will gauge control off of it.

     

    Thanks again however

  8. Posted

    Well,

     

    I don't have Krazy Shoot out so I can't compare with that one.

     

    Also I haven't really found a 5200 games yet that I would say really "Sucks" in the ethical sense. But this is what is played the most and the least in my 5200.

     

    Least played:

    Defender

    Gorf

    Kaboom! (I don't have paddles so I figure this would help)

    Frogger

     

    Most Played:

    Rescue on Fractalus

    Space Dungeon

    Moon Patrol

    Kangaroo (Hey I like it! Leave me alone!)

     

    And believe it or not I don't have Pac-Man or any of the sports games yet. I see Pac-Man all the time so I that is probably the #1 reason I haven't picked it up. Also many of the 5200 games are great arcade conversions with perfect sound, but the 5200 controllers really ruin it all for me with these games. Like Defender and Kaboom!

  9. Posted

    Chaz:

     

    Can't be a controller problem. Defender and Berzerk! are the only ones that give me fits. Most of the time Berzerk's main character won't move diagnally when I want him to. But I have better luck if I return the stick to center and then move him. So basically I can't roll the controller from say...left to left+up diagnal. I would have to be moving left and then return it to center and then to the left+up posistion for him to move in that diagnal. Defender is just plain odd. Because going left takes no effort at all. But if I want to suddenly change and go right...well I can't unless I move the stick all the way to the far right. That maybe the normal method. But if so then left shouldn't start working until that is at its extreme as well.

     

     

    But Moon Patrol, Frogger, Fractalus, Star Raiders, Kangaroo work great! Yes I actually prefer Kangaroo on the 5200 to the 2600 version. I actually don't have any trouble controlling the 'Roo' in that game.

     

    Oh well, probably just me and I'm all weird and stuff.

  10. Posted

    Cafeman:

     

    My only reason for Defender being a pain to control is because on my 5200 with both of my controllers. I have to push all the way to the extreme right to get the ship to change direction. However, Defender is the only game I can really see this happening on. It could be both my sticks need calibrating. But then that doesn't explain why Fractalus, Star Raiders, and yes...even Gorf all respond correctly.

     

    Also I have a really hard time controlling Berzerk! as well. I can't get the diagnals to work in that game at all movement wise. I do much better with the digital sticks of the 2600 version than the 5200 version. Because of this alone I am hesitant to get BluePrint or Miner...or some others.

     

    I will know just as soon as my SW:TAG for the 5200 comes in.

  11. Posted

    Funny to see this mentioned. The Vader model is the least common one that I find in my area. Instead, I usually see the 6 switch semi heavy and 4 switch woody's most common here.

     

    I have actually only seen one Vader model and the guy doesn't feel like climbing over his piles and piles of dead and half taken apart TV sets to get it. And I don't feel like breaking a leg or getting zapped by a Cathode while trying to get to it either. Especially when the guys wants like 20 bucks for his 2600s. Too much for a bare console that may not even work.

  12. Posted

    So then basically you guys are saying that all possible points in the game have been found at this point? Or so it would seem?

     

    Question about the key. Just to clarify. Aren't all the graphics displayed upside down in the code?

     

    That would mean that you guys have been posting the key upside down in the pics. Also, and this is way far fetched. But is it possible to overlay several of the actuall current existing graphics in the game to actually create something new? For instance you could alter the hourclass and turn it into the Anhk by actually displaying the hourglass and combining it with some dead graphic space or something?

     

    My theory is that would it be possible to actually create his initials by combining several already placed graphic objects? I believe you stated earlier that the Lunatic is displayed in this way. There are so many places in the code where we have just seemingly random boxes...in the graphics that it might be possible that instead of being just a static image...that it might be a combination of several ontop of one another?

     

    Just a thought. I find it hard to believe that the screenshot which has been around forever was done from a proto version. I realize most magazines in that time got those lab loaner carts...but most of the time those were the final released code but without the fancy box and labels. Hence why most of Tempests Protos are actually just the PCB and nothing else.

     

    So...either it is in there...and really cleverly hidden somehow. Or this how thing was never there to begin with and Howard Warsaw simply thought it was in there...since they had their initials in other games.

  13. Posted

    And while it is a lot of work...

     

    Keep hitting Flea markets and thrifts. I actually found my 4 port which was just a tad on the dusty side...but no cracks and very few scratches and it works great. Came with two controllers one of which needed a little TLC..the other is completely missing the plastic ring and fire buttons on one side but otherwise I can get it to work again as well.

     

    Also the power supply. But no RF box. Total cost to me...

     

    $2.

     

    hehe...now that was a good day.

  14. Posted

    the power plugs into the switchbox itself. There is a choke installed inside the switchbox and on the 5200 itself. So basically you connect the switchbox to the TV...you plug the power into the switchbox and then the 5200 rf cord goes into the switch box. It is autoswitching so you only have to turn to channel 3 and turn on the 5200.

     

    I too have an extra 4 port switchbox...

  15. Posted

    Okay...so I am not sure how to put this into the category of repairs but let me tell you how I have managed to fix all my 5200 sticks I have seen come my way.

     

    You'll love this...

     

    So I am at home wondering how to fix a 5200 stick I have where the stick itself works great as do all the numpad buttons. But the fire buttons and the top row were shot. I first tried to super glue some small pieces of Aluminum foil. But, that didn't stay attached for long and soon I found that the buttons were dead again. I would open the stick up to find that the foil had indeed come off the carbon pads. So I then started to think about how to attached foil to the carbon dots more securely. And then it hit me. Foil tape would be perfect! But I didn't have any on hand so I had an idea. My 18 month old son loves stickers. And it just so happens that he has a package of Pooh Bear stickers that are foil backed. Well the surface of the sticker itself wouldn't conduct any electricity so I had to use some fine grit sand paper to go over the sticker surface enough to get the coating on the sticker off. Then the sticker was conducting electricity just fine. I think took a hole punch and punched out my new "Dots" from the sanded down foil stickers. I found that the sticker glue seems to stay great on the carbon dots compared to the super glue I was using. In fact I did this over a month ago and the stick is still working great. In fact the fire button maybe a bit too sensitive as I can just barely touch them and they will tag off shots. Either way I hope this well some of you out there.

     

    I also sanded the carbon pads to make sure there wasn't any residue on them that would prevent the sticker dots from attaching well.

     

    Take care!

  17. Posted

    Well..i don't know about variations from unit to unit...but I do know that the wood grain used between Atari and Sears Telegames units are totally different.

     

    I suppose it could also be possible for the woodgrain to differ between a 6 switch and 4 switch but I don't know that for sure either.

  20. Posted

    heh,

     

    I have to live with the fact that my only copy of Track N Field I have ever found has the previous owner's last name "Seaman" written in Sharpie on the bottom of the label.

     

    So yeah... I hate that...makes me want to hurt that person pretty badly for screwing up such a semi rare game.

  21. Posted

    Okay,

     

    So we need to get it all straighten out. There was a modification that Atari made to the later revision 7800 boards (circa 88 or so?), which was done to allow some of the newer 2600 games (Only Dark Chambers comes to mind), to work correctly. However, this same design change in the 7800 also broke more games than it fixed such as some Activision games like Decathalon, Robot Tank and Shuttle. This same design change is also what made the supercharger adapter not function for those 7800s.

     

    Then in the quest to find out why, Chris Schell set about finding out why his Cuttle Carts didn't work on these newer 7800 either. Basically he found an extra resitor and capacitor and maybe an extra Sram installed which were causing the problems with the older 2600 Activision games. He basically cut that circuit by clipping the capacitor and had his cuttle cart and those games working on a newer designed 7800.

     

    I do not know all the full details of this since it was in fact Chris who did the investigative work on it. I can tell you that I have found more 7800s that work with everything than not. So to me the compatibility issue isn't that strong anymore.

  22. Posted

    Well..I am not sure how valid this is with Atari brand carts...but I know that alot of the 3rd party makes of carts such as Activision and M-Network. Well, their carts PCBs themselves were thinner than the Atari brand PCBs. I actually had to "Reform" the contacts on my 2600 and 7800 so that the unit itself made better contact with the carts not the other way around. I would say of most of the carts I have that Activisions appear to be some of the thinnest PCBs around.

     

    So, don't leave carts in the slots when you aren't playing them. If you want to keep dust out of the cart slot on the 2600 unit or your 7800 then keep a cart in there but just not pushed down into the slot. That way it will just sit in there and block that dust while not actually making contact with the cart slots contacts and hence over time pushing them away from the cart.

     

    Just something to think about. My 7800 was perhaps the worst of the lot as several Imagic games are still tricky to get working from time to time.

  23. Posted

    Well,

     

    Care to guess my thoughts about the game?

     

    Hehe..seriously, when I got the 7800 version in 88 that was when I started to go by my current handle that I still use today.

     

    Only back then I was simply known as Crossbow...then it was -CrossBow-

    and many other variants later...I finally settled on -^Cro§Bow^-

     

    Anyway, this game in the arcades really facinated me. It was the first game I had seen with semi violent content in it. I was in awe when I first saw my "Friends" go up in a pillar of fire and smoke to ashes all the while screaming bloody murder! Back in 82-83 when I first actually played it I knew that someday I had to have this game. I can't afford neither money nor space for the arcade cab of it in my home. But the 7800 version is really close enough for me. The 2600 version is excellent if not a little more difficult since the control seems more sensitive. But all the elements of gameplay including the hitting of the icycles and lava bridge boulder are present. Good game though I am partial to the 7800 version for it better graphics and animation.

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