Tyrant

Damn! I'd kill for a CatBox but no way on earth I can afford it right now, and I guess you dont want to trade for anything since you need cash, ho hum, another time I guess.

LOL

There are two ways I could sell them, either make up a large batch, post on both here and the JI2 and get people to submit email addresses and form a waiting list, or put them on ebay as I finish each one. Since an auction on Ebay lasts 7 days by default, I feel thats a much more fair way to do it, since I dont plan on producing huge numbers, and I hate the idea that people will miss out simply because I posted at a time they wernt looking at the board and everyone else got there first. I realise prices on ebay can get a little... excessive, but I *will* make more, Im not sure how many more, but I will make more, so I hope everyone who wants one can have one at a reasonible price. Im not in this for the money (tho obviously its all useful, especially considering I dont have a job at the moment), but because there are no other source of rotary controlers (well except Jedi Jeff's 5 new ones, but I didnt know about them when I put it up).

I think his ones are right handed (the knob, which is the primary input, is on the right), and mine are left handed. In tempest the buttons are much less important, since B is held almost constantly, and jump has to be earned each levvel and superzapper only works once a level, A and C dont get used as much as many players would like .

Umm... technically possible yes, but no games would support it. Support for special controler types has to be writen into the core of a game, and while it is possible (Atari were going to do it), no games support it and I dont think anyone is making any new driving games that could.

To be honest Im not sure, I havnt heard of Breakout supporting them, but it might, someone here will know Im sure but I dont think it does.

My opinion, for what its worth (ie not much in the grand scale of things), is that the native demo rocks, it needs lots of work but the shere level of graphical detail and style is incredible, and as long as the final game remains close to that, I dont think Duranik will have a right to feel wronged (or anyone else to feel the game or Duranik's dream of it has been damaged). As for them not wanting to be a part of it, maybe you should try working on your own then sending them copies / vidieos of it when you get to big steps. Seing their dream realised, may give them the motivation to tell you how to make it closer to what it was supposed to be.

Well I finally finished my first rotary controler for sale, and its up and listed. I hope to make more, but my time is remarkably scarce, so I can't gaurentee when, obviously it also depends on the interest in this one. So, go and get bidding, I'll post worldwide and for this one, shipping is FREE! Links for: Ebay.co.uk / Ebay.com

Hmm... could do, but what is the 8088 used in? The main reason I want to learn 68k is cause I already have a Jaguar dev kit, and while the 68k is the least powerful chip inside a Jag, I can use it to learn the others, and the general workings of the system. Im sure its not going to be an easy process learning and getting good enough to actually do anything thrilling with it, but I want to try. Anyways, I'll keep muddling along unless I can find some really helpful text somewhere.

EB did have them, starting at £20 I think, then finishing at £5! before they ran out (I missed them unfortunatly), also CEX Retro sell them for I think £20, when they have some, which isnt that bad, and probably a similar cost to getting somoene to replace a chip for you.

The only adverts I ever saw for the Jaguar were in ST Format, and they were more huge features about the Jag, not actual adverts put there by Atari. Maybe they advertised it in america, maybe they advertised it over here too, but I must have missed them all.

Why dont american modulators have a totally variable frequency like English ones? Over here modulators have a small "screw" which allows you to adjust the frequency from about 21 to 61 (Mhx I think) normally.

You can get a new boxed Jag for next to nothing so its probably not worth doing, but if you do take it to a repair shop, get them to remove the boot rom and put in a socket instead, then you can plug in a BJL rom or even a switch unit.

Its a little annoying but understandible, whats a real pain is when I have to use a stepdown since two of my power supplies are us ones.

Hehe, cool, well I only seem to remember playing a few different java varients of the genre, no idea of their names, but the same basic concept.

I think Im with Lars here, his post was crude and a little offensive, and definatly not a good way to start life on a new board, but not quite troll like (yet).

Wow, did you actually come up with the idea for Jammed? I've only played java clones, but wow is that an evil and totally adictive game!

While its 68k assembily I need to learn, this guide was *VERY* helpful, thanks loads. Am I right in thinking the 6502 is also used in the Lynx as well as the Atari 8bit's? (I picked up an 8bit in a flee market a while ago, still havnt played with it)

I also long for a good 68k book, all I've managed to find are extremely technical and assume your an expierienced assembily coder or electronic engineer allready. I've only found them online, I've never seen one in a shop and I dont want to buy without reading a bit first or having a good recomendation. So please, can anyone recomend a book or online guide to help me get a foot up into it. Im a techie and can code well in several high level languages, which is probably a disadvantage, because while I can understand some of the basics of what makes a command or how commands work in assembily, I cant quite grasp how one actually writes anything using them. Im begining to see the apeal of the "dummies" style books, having never been a dummy about anything techie so far, I guess low level and high level techies really are different species after all So, whats a good guide for the utterly clueless?

/me slaps himself on the forehead Now I look at my collection in more detail, I realise quite a lot of games didnt have holograms, which is odd since I thought I read either in the dev manual or some official Atari text that they wouldnt allow anything to be sold without one?

Thats also a possibility, but what Im more interested by is the plastic components. If you remove the top of the Jaguar, then put a cartridge into the slot of it, the bottom of the plastic of the cartridge can go down all the way to the bottom of the slot in the plastic lid, making contact on the bottom. On the CD's connector however, there is a noticible gap between the bottom of the slot and the bottom of the "plug". For the record, the extender board on the cd is the same distance from the bottom of the cd's case as a cartridge pcb is from the bottom of a cartridge case, the dificulty is that because the JagCD is a T shape, it wont reach the bottom of the slot in the plastic. Since when the plastic cover is attached to the Jaguar, the bottom of the plastic slot is practically level with the bottom of the actual connector, I cannot get a perfect connection (or even a working connection) when the plastic lid of my Jag is on. Like I said its not a huge issue, Im running it currently with the lid off and the CD resting on a small book on top of the metal shielding, but its a curious puzzle and I'd be interested in hearing if other people have this same... "gap" in how far the plastic of the CD can go into the plastic lid.

Now that is a good idea. But it still leaves the question of why the plastic housing's arnt designed to fit together better. Hmm...

Not wanting to sound synical, but what does any of this actually matter? First game I can understand, its the first, but as a friend of mine once said "history isnt over yet" Oh and "official" has a clear definition, its anything with a real encription header (not the 3DO-Dead backdoor) and a hologram sticker. Since Atari had to aprove all games, and since they were the only people who made things official or not, the last game released with a hologram and encripted by atari would be the last official game, but not the last released game by any mesure. But the question still remains, why does it matter?

If Im not mistaken, the idea of making the extra audio track at the begining of a JagCD is that its not only a seperate track, but also a seperate session from the rest of the data. Since audio cd players dont support multisession cd's they should only see the one session and ignore the other tracks entirely, at least that's the idea, I havnt tested it (and I may be wrong, but I think thats what the dev manual says).

Thanks, I know its not worn or dirty contacts since when I run it (as I am currently doing) with the upper plastic housing of the Jag removed, it runs beautifully. As for pushing it hard, I have tried many times to push it in hard enough to get a good connection, and the only way I could do it was maintaining a constant strong pressure on it all the while I was playing (totally impractical). When I mount the JagCD to the top of the plastic Jag case (detached from the Jag itself) I can see from the inside that even when pushed in as far as it will go, there is still a significant gap between the contacts. If any of you have a few minutes of spare time, would you mind taking off the top of your Jag, mounting it to the CD unit and taking a photo of the inside of the cartridge slot? Im curious to find out if the CD is ment to stop short of the bottom or not.