OldAtarian
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Posts posted by OldAtarian
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It's those Anonymous bastards taking revenge on anyone who denounces wikileaks.
Better to have people fighting and attacking on the interweb via DDoS rather than actually shooting and bombing each other. If a website goes down it's an inconvenience, if someone drops a bomb on you you're dead. I'd prefer the inconvenience over death.
How do you know.....?
What if you were dead and woke up...do you know how bad your life would suck then? Personally I been there.....!
For all the inconveniences life throws at me I would rather stay dead!
Death is an unknown. IMHO I think it's like a light switch. When you die the switch is turned off. That's it. No heaven, no hell, no dancing on a fluffy cloud, nothing. I could very well be wrong but I'd rather stay alive for now rather than dying to find out. Of course if there is nothing, then I wouldn't find out, because I'm dead, and there's nothing so how could I report back on my findings or even experience it?
Inconveniences can be overcome, death cannot....at least not yet. Which is interesting to think about. If there is something, and you're hanging out on a fluffy cloud talking to Elvis and Frank Sinatra and suddenly your physical body is brought back to life, would you get sucked back into your body? I know if I were kickin' it with Elvis and Frank Sinatra and some doctor brought me back I'd be pissed. Of course if you're cremated then you're screwed. Unless there's reincarnation. Could I will my video games to my future self?
It's funny then how if there's nothing how so many people who have had those experiences all describe the same thing. Some people try to dismiss it by saying your brain takes a massive drug trip right before you die, but is everyone's drug trip the same? I have yet to meet two people who describe having EXACTLY the same drug trip, regardless of what they were on. If everyone's drug trips are different then their after death experiences should be different if that's all it is. There's something more going on there than the brain tripping out before it shuts down.
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That was my theory in one of the other threads. Midi transfers are extremely fast and Mac drives access data a lot faster than the ST drives so passing the data across the midi ports is probably the only way to read/write Mac disks fast enough to prevent data corruption. I wonder how the Spectre GCR does it, though. It would have to have some high speed device built in to match the speed of the Mac floppies if the Translator One is not needed or else buffer the data before writing so it can supply a steady stream of data without waiting on the ST to catch up.
I don't think Mac drives are faster than ST drives (they certainly couldn't be a lot faster). The Midi connection is used for a high speed transfer between the ST and the digital logic inside the Translator device. It is used not because it is faster than the drive cable connection. It is used because the emulator couldn't use the direct drive connection, which is handled by the ST FDC.
The Spectre GCR is a cartridge. The emulator can perform fast transfers with the cartridge port, it doesn't need the Midi connection.
The Magic Sac and Spectre 128 are also carts. The cart format has nothing to do with it or else the Magic Sac and Spectre 128 wouldn't need the Translator One either.
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Anyone is welcome to outbid me anytime they like, as long as they don't mind overpaying because my high bid will represent the actual value of the item.
The value of the item will be determined by Ebay with an open auction. Item values are constantly changing depending on demand/etc... With your system you are just increasing the value of the item to what YOU think it is worth, not what it is actually worth, and that is not a good way to approach Ebay which is why nobody does this but you (still waiting for someone to chime in that they do your system also, but nobody will...)
I don't really care what anybody else does. If I'm the only one doing it then it's so much the better for me. While i'm happily accumulating rare game and computer items, the rest of you will be left scratching your butts wondering why you never win any auctions.
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That's where calling someone who never does anything right or who has perpetual bad luck a Sad Sack came from.
I'd honestly say getting two items for at least 1/3 their total value is actually doing something RIGHT....
but then again, I'm not the one experiencing a severe case of sour grapes.
Go back to school and take math again. $75 is not 1/3 of what those games were worth.
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You have to many Winter Games
And too many 1050s!
And too much of EVERYTHING. It must be redistributed to the Atari Age members forthwith!
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I though that all original factory NTSC copies of Victory were corupted... ?
Pretty sure your right Retro... there was a bug or bugs in the game that was never fixed.
What kind of bug and is it possible for anyone to hack it to fix it?
This game is aparently unplayable...
Newcoleco has modified the rom, you can get it from his website
Unplayable you say?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR9_LSrlBiE
Captured directly from a real Colecovision through the RF output, NOT an emulator.
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I can't believe I missed the end of this thread. Wow. Intentionally maxing out your own bid to scare away the people that might raise it slightly. Bravo. Brilliant. I will be sure you are the first to know when I list something on Ebay. I never thought bidding on ebay the right way was such a hard concept to grasp, but posts like this make me know that I will always be in the minority in that respect.
I don't think anybody besides oldatarian "shills themselves" seriously, bidding twice on the same item with two seperate Ebay accounts to max your bid out? Nobody in there right mind does that. It's the silliest thing I have ever heard.
How is it silly? If a listing for something starts at 1 cent and I think it's worth $50, what's wrong with bidding the $50 and then backing it up with a bid from another account? I was prepared to pay $50 for it anyway and if it's an item that is going to generate a lot of interest it's going to reach at least $50, maybe more. I wouldn't do that for an item that will generate few bids, only something that is rare. Do you think I would bid $50 for a $10 item and then bump it up? THAT would be silly. Do you think a Video Cube cart for the 2600 is worth $50? Don't you think it would easily reach $50 in a regular auction regardless? I'm just bypassing a lot of the B.S. by getting the $50 bid to the top right away and increasing my chances of winning because if nobody else wants to spend more than $50 for it, it's mine. I don't care about the slim chance that I could have gotten it for less because 99% of the time I wouldn't have. If the $50 bid is high enough to stop other people from bidding, I get the item. What is so hard to understand about that? I'd rather have the rare item than the money.
It is silly because your logic if flawed. You assume people react rationally, which they don't often do. Often people will see other people bid on something and the fact that someone else is bidding on that item makes the item more desirable to them and so they put in a bid, or a higher bid.
As an example, a US seller had a PAL River Patrol taht he had been listing and relisting for about one year. It had a starting offer price and a much higher BIN. I considered his opening price to be a little too high, but his BIN was ridiculously high. After being relisted countless times, one buyer decided to put in an opening bid. After that, it others bid and the final selling price was even higher than the original BIN!
I have seen this happen countless times. People think that since there are a number of bidders taht are bidding, it must be worth taht and more and they jump into the bidding too.
I would never artificially try to prop up the auction price on something that I am interested in. You never know, you may get taht $50 item for $10
Anyone is welcome to outbid me anytime they like, as long as they don't mind overpaying because my high bid will represent the actual value of the item. It won't be a case of them beating my bid and still picking the item up for a fraction of what it's worth. The fact that the actual value of the item is the price to beat WILL deter a lot of bidders who are just bargain hunting or looking to buy something for immediate resale.
All I'm doing is removing the mystery and letting people know up front that this is the price you have to beat if you want the item. If you can't afford it or don't think it's worth more than that then don't bid. If you do think it's worth more than that then I'll happily congratulate you on your newest acquisition that you paid far too much for.
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I can't believe I missed the end of this thread. Wow. Intentionally maxing out your own bid to scare away the people that might raise it slightly. Bravo. Brilliant. I will be sure you are the first to know when I list something on Ebay. I never thought bidding on ebay the right way was such a hard concept to grasp, but posts like this make me know that I will always be in the minority in that respect.
I don't think anybody besides oldatarian "shills themselves" seriously, bidding twice on the same item with two seperate Ebay accounts to max your bid out? Nobody in there right mind does that. It's the silliest thing I have ever heard.
How is it silly? If a listing for something starts at 1 cent and I think it's worth $50, what's wrong with bidding the $50 and then backing it up with a bid from another account? I was prepared to pay $50 for it anyway and if it's an item that is going to generate a lot of interest it's going to reach at least $50, maybe more. I wouldn't do that for an item that will generate few bids, only something that is rare. Do you think I would bid $50 for a $10 item and then bump it up? THAT would be silly. Do you think a Video Cube cart for the 2600 is worth $50? Don't you think it would easily reach $50 in a regular auction regardless? I'm just bypassing a lot of the B.S. by getting the $50 bid to the top right away and increasing my chances of winning because if nobody else wants to spend more than $50 for it, it's mine. I don't care about the slim chance that I could have gotten it for less because 99% of the time I wouldn't have. If the $50 bid is high enough to stop other people from bidding, I get the item. What is so hard to understand about that? I'd rather have the rare item than the money.
If you want the BEST chance use one account and bid the minimum to kill the BIN if there is one.
Then using the same account snipe it.
Bidders often want what someone else wants. When a game has bids it is way more likely to get another bid than if it sits with no bids. With your method you will pay more and win less often. Simple as that.
What are you talking about? So you're saying if someone puts up an ET or Pac Man cart for 99 cents and someone bids on it that someone is more likely to bid on it than if nobody did? By your logic if bidders draw more bidders then that common as dirt ET or Pac Man would sell for thousands because the first bidder would attract a new bidder who would attract another and another and another and it doesn't work that way.
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I can't believe I missed the end of this thread. Wow. Intentionally maxing out your own bid to scare away the people that might raise it slightly. Bravo. Brilliant. I will be sure you are the first to know when I list something on Ebay. I never thought bidding on ebay the right way was such a hard concept to grasp, but posts like this make me know that I will always be in the minority in that respect.
I don't think anybody besides oldatarian "shills themselves" seriously, bidding twice on the same item with two seperate Ebay accounts to max your bid out? Nobody in there right mind does that. It's the silliest thing I have ever heard.
How is it silly? If a listing for something starts at 1 cent and I think it's worth $50, what's wrong with bidding the $50 and then backing it up with a bid from another account? I was prepared to pay $50 for it anyway and if it's an item that is going to generate a lot of interest it's going to reach at least $50, maybe more. I wouldn't do that for an item that will generate few bids, only something that is rare. Do you think I would bid $50 for a $10 item and then bump it up? THAT would be silly. Do you think a Video Cube cart for the 2600 is worth $50? Don't you think it would easily reach $50 in a regular auction regardless? I'm just bypassing a lot of the B.S. by getting the $50 bid to the top right away and increasing my chances of winning because if nobody else wants to spend more than $50 for it, it's mine. I don't care about the slim chance that I could have gotten it for less because 99% of the time I wouldn't have. If the $50 bid is high enough to stop other people from bidding, I get the item. What is so hard to understand about that? I'd rather have the rare item than the money.
Dude, your long drawn out answer just makes my head hurt and doesn't change the fact that using a second Ebay account to bid up an item you are already bidding on is silly. Find me ONE other person that purposely does this, you will not be able to, case closed, shilling yourself is silly...actually change silly to retarded, tired of being PC.
And that's why you'll either lose or overpay if you ever bid against me.
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It's those Anonymous bastards taking revenge on anyone who denounces wikileaks.
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you should of said "sac's" ..........not "sacks"
No, I typed what I should have.
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Sad Sack was the Beetle Bailey/Gomer Pyle of World War II. Sad Sack has ALWAYS had a K at the end going back to the 1940's when the character was created. That's where calling someone who never does anything right or who has perpetual bad luck a Sad Sack came from.
And YOU should have said HAVE, not OF. The phrase is "Should HAVE said" or to use the contraction, "SHOULD'VE said" not "Should OF said".
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I can't believe I missed the end of this thread. Wow. Intentionally maxing out your own bid to scare away the people that might raise it slightly. Bravo. Brilliant. I will be sure you are the first to know when I list something on Ebay. I never thought bidding on ebay the right way was such a hard concept to grasp, but posts like this make me know that I will always be in the minority in that respect.
I don't think anybody besides oldatarian "shills themselves" seriously, bidding twice on the same item with two seperate Ebay accounts to max your bid out? Nobody in there right mind does that. It's the silliest thing I have ever heard.
How is it silly? If a listing for something starts at 1 cent and I think it's worth $50, what's wrong with bidding the $50 and then backing it up with a bid from another account? I was prepared to pay $50 for it anyway and if it's an item that is going to generate a lot of interest it's going to reach at least $50, maybe more. I wouldn't do that for an item that will generate few bids, only something that is rare. Do you think I would bid $50 for a $10 item and then bump it up? THAT would be silly. Do you think a Video Cube cart for the 2600 is worth $50? Don't you think it would easily reach $50 in a regular auction regardless? I'm just bypassing a lot of the B.S. by getting the $50 bid to the top right away and increasing my chances of winning because if nobody else wants to spend more than $50 for it, it's mine. I don't care about the slim chance that I could have gotten it for less because 99% of the time I wouldn't have. If the $50 bid is high enough to stop other people from bidding, I get the item. What is so hard to understand about that? I'd rather have the rare item than the money.
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can we go back to the topic?
i really hate it when someone complains about a canceled auction altough he bid on it with two accounts, the other people start chitchatting about whether it is stupid or not, then it turns into an endless discussion but then someone come up with a proper ebay law forbidding the use of two accounts on one auctions, which causes a GOD cart to appear out of nowhere and we find out that there is only Zuul while dana had already gone then all this suddenly turns into a giant conspiracy scheme with spare cartridges used to assassinate someone with an earthquake caused by the harmonic vibrations caused when a stack of cartridges fall over ... the conspiracy is so big that even the government is covering it up with the help of the aliens that want to enslave Earth and all this is already planned and happens in 2012!
god damnit! i am the only one confused?
atariage is gonna end up as a big datafile on wikileaks.org
I didn't bid on this listing with two accounts. I made one bid first then increased it later using the same account.
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with the use of two accounts, the only rule is to not bid on your own auctions with a different account.
Actually it is against the rules... eBay states...
Just make sure that:
* The two accounts are never used in the same listing.
And by that they mean shill bidding.
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That is true, but you can't use the two accounts that you have in the same auction. What he wanted to do was use the two accounts he had to bid up the price. That is not allowed in any case, even if it's not your own auction.
with the use of two accounts, the only rule is to not bid on your own auctions with a different account.
Actually, you can't bid on the SAME auction with two accounts. Doesn't matter if it is yours or someone else.
I just find it funny that someone is mad that a rule was broken when they were going to break a rule as well. In this case the seller was really dumb as the seller should have told the potential buyer to bid and become the highest bidder and then I will make a side deal with you. Once the bid went over $250 then I am pretty sure that the potential buyer would have bailed out. Or maybe he would have paid $250+ and then everything would have been cool.
Why couldn't my friend bid in the same listing as me? Does that mean that two Atari Agers who know each other personally can't bid in the same listing?
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Why would a proto have QC stamps on it? I would think that QC would only inspect production models before they went out the door and not pre-production prototypes.
And what makes you think it's factory painted with the red? Anyone can open something up and apply paint at some point. I would also think they would be a little more careful about the overspray if it was done at the factory.
Sorry, don't understand exactly what you mean.
But as I wrote in the posting before, I'm sure now it isn't a prototype. I have got some help from different boards all over the world and all came to the conclusion it's neither a proto nor a public System. In addition to that some German collectors sent me some promotion catalouge pics, where you can see the red striped Computer Adaptor. But it was never released. So it's one out of many other facts, that my model seems to be a demonstration model (independend of a fake-paint or not).
My big problem is to find someone, who has safty information about it. Everybody can tell me, that it's not a standard model, but nobody can tell me what it can be else.
So my assumption is a demonstration model.
I mean those round stamps with the letters QC inside them. QC means Quality Control. It means the item has been inspected for defects prior to shipping. If it was a prototype, it wouldn't have had to pass through normal quality control checks because it was never meant to be sold.
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I tried to order Prince of Persia HD collection from Amazon UK but they will not ship to a US address. I bought it through a seller on Amazon UK instead. I sent Amazon a question about that and they said that some publishers etc will not allow the product to be sold outside the UK.
So if you are pissed that you can only download the Prince games in the USA, it seems perhaps UBI soft may be blocking you from getting it from the UK or so it seems.
Why the hell would they do that? To try and force north american users to download the game instead? Wont they make money off me if I just order the damn CD from the UK with all three games on it?
Not sure whats going on but I got my game ordered. Thought I'd post it here...not sure if anyone still imports stuff. (I usually check PlayAsia and other places but Amazon UK was the cheapest)
That's why they have region coding. It's actually illegal to sell region coded items outside their intended distribution area because it violates the distribution rights granted to others outside that region. You won't see any legit companies violating that. I tried buying from several UK game shops in the past but got stopped at checkout when filling in my address info. Their checkout pages are setup to only accept UK postcodes and every single time I asked, I was always told they weren't allowed to sell outside the UK because of region coding. I've never had a problem getting movies or games used from individuals and even a few less scrupulous merchants of new items from overseas, though. Hong Kong and Taiwanese merchants are your friends.
It's times like this that I really miss Lik Sang.
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I like Earth Defense Force 2017 even though most people don't. It's like being in a 60's Japanese monster movie. It has everything you could ever want. Giant bugs, robots, alien spacecraft, and even a Godzilla knockoff! What's not to love?
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I thought it used the Midi ports to do the transfer to/from the ST?
That was my theory in one of the other threads. Midi transfers are extremely fast and Mac drives access data a lot faster than the ST drives so passing the data across the midi ports is probably the only way to read/write Mac disks fast enough to prevent data corruption. I wonder how the Spectre GCR does it, though. It would have to have some high speed device built in to match the speed of the Mac floppies if the Translator One is not needed or else buffer the data before writing so it can supply a steady stream of data without waiting on the ST to catch up.
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This brings up something I've wondered about for a long time: Exactly what was the development environment Atari provided VCS programmers to program games? I assume it was on some minicomputer system, since they were in existence at the time, and surely running assemblers on Big Iron would have been like driving a tractor-trailer to the store for a little grocery shopping. Also, how did the programmers test their games during development, i.e. trying out different code variations to see which ones worked best for a game, etc.Also, when some Atari programmers defected and started Activision, what did they develop on? Did they sneak copied assembler software disks out the door or did they write their own? I wouldn't be surprised if it were the latter, since they were obviously some talented programmers, but I also wouldn't be surprised if it were the former.
Well, Atari was using a VAX mini someplace...as evidenced by their interoffice memos. Maybe Curt knows exactly what machines were afforded to the various divisions?
Bob Whitehead (re: Activision)...
Dave Crane, with some help from some simple reverse engineering and a little input from Al Miller, designed the hardware, and I wrote the debugger software. Simply, it was a ROM simulator with a RS-232 terminal interface which plugged into an Atari cartridge slot. You would download an assembled (object code) program and then run it in a simple debugging environment. The system needed a cross-compiling and source editing environment provided by a mini-computer to assemble the program. A “dumb terminal” was used as the interface to the development system and the mini-computer.So Atari's equipment used to program 2600 games may have been similar. It's certianly the case in the home computer division, so that same mini could have had workstations used for VCS development as well.
Landon Dyer writes this about development at Atari's computer division...
We used a Data General minicomputer, an MV/8000, for cross-development. This was the machine that Tracy Kidder’s book Soul of a New Machine was all about. While it wasn’t a VAX running Unix (which I would have preferred) it was still pretty easy to use and had some decent tools (no Emacs, though). We used a version of the Atari Macro Assembler that had been ported to the MV/8000, and that was worlds better than the miserably slow Assembler/Editor cartridge I’d done Myriapede on, but everything had to be downloaded to our development systems at 9600 baud, so turnaround time became a big issue toward the end of a project, especially since we had to share the MV/8000 with fourty or fifty other people during the day, just like the overloaded mainframe back in college. I’d often stay late, and after about six PM the systems were pretty fast again (five minutes, instead of nearly an hour).Smaller companies took advantage of the 6507 processor's nearly-identical operation to the 6502's, and just used home computers to develop on...
Bill Heineman (re: Avalon Hill)...
I used an Apple ][ with a ROM emulator for doing games.Dennis Caswell (re: Arcadia)...
All of the Supercharger games were written on Apple II computers. We tested them by either downloading them directly into the Supercharger, another advantage of the device; or by using a piece of rather crude, but still useful, debugging hardware that Craig Nelson and Bob Brown (former Atari employees) had managed to acquire before my arrival.Instead of mainframes and minis, wouldn't it just have been a lot cheaper for Atari to make a machine that would have essentially been a 2600 but with a keyboard and enough RAM and ROM to run an assembler/debugger?
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Hey, did anyone else notice he changed the original picture to one with a T handle.
Someone just paid $128 for a repro cart.
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Ok, so he did break Ebay rules then, for sure? Has he been reported for this policy violation? Would you be as upset with the same policy violation if you'd have been the $75 guy?
I did report it and I wouldn't have been the $75 guy because I don't do deals like that. Why would I have bid $250 if I was looking to rip someone off? I only bid $250 originally because I didn't notice he had both Learning Funs CIB. I thought there was only one.
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Kind of funny that the end of the description reads, Money Order preferred, I don't like Paypal. Probably should have said I don't want to pay the fee on $6000.
Or he's a scammer and wants to take your money order and run with it. Never pay for a big ticket item like that by any method that leaves you no means of recourse if the transaction goes bad.
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No. The early Mac emulator carts couldn't read Mac floppies. You had to copy the Mac stuff to specially formatted floppies that the emulator could read. The Translator One let you read the Mac floppies directly before the Spectre GCR came out. I'm not sure those would be midi ports on it, though. I'm pretty sure those would be floppy ports for connecting your drives to for reading the Mac discs.
Feast your eyes my friends. Feast your eyes.
Not only 2 floppy ports but 2 midi ports. Not sure how the midi ports work but my guess why add them and label them midi if they were not meant to connect midi devices to. I need to find a user manual for this and someone that owns one so they can email me pictures of the ac adapter and what kind of connector is on it so I can try and buy a generic one that would work.
tj
It could be possible that you connect to the ST by the midi ports, too. Midi was pretty fast at transferring data. It may have been faster than the standard ST drives. The Mac floppy drives were also lightning fast compared to ST drives. Passing data across the midi cables may have been required to be able spin the drives at Mac speeds and still be able to read and write with any accuracy.
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The last time I checked they weren't exactly distancing themselves. The last statement I saw said they neither condemn nor condone their actions.