a8maestro

All you need in the root of the SD card is SDRIVE.ATR. As long as the firmware is on the chips correctly and things are wired up, it pretty much just works. One doesn't actually need any buttons nor LEDs to make it work, and everything the DIP and toggle switches do could wired up that way while connecting the SD card. (Did you set the fuses right on the AVR? If not, it won't run / run right...) =========================== Never mind! Problem Solved! Magnifiers are great for finding a bad solder at the dip switch. Thx. ============================= From the video, I did put sdrive.atr on the root. I also added a couple of folders just to browse. I assume this works since the 4 drive LEDs go on when I insert the card, which the doc says the atmega read that file as the special drive. For the Fuses, I am going by the Fuses.gif in the sdrive zip file. I will try again, but I seem to recall an error when writing the security bits. Thanks, Rick

A reply/update I posted in another thread..... post #7.... http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?s...6&hl=sdrive Rick

I have been working on making a few sdrives since chat around November 08. After about a month of recovering from and auto accident, I finally got the chips programmed this week after more than a week of trying(computer #3 worked). While the leds work the way they are supposed to, the sdrive does not respond to the xl at all. Checked boards and circuits many ways, and nothing seems wrong. May be a case of I'll have to do it all 10 times to finally get it to work(as was programming). And I am only guessing at what I need on the root dir of the sdcard other sdrive.atr, no good instructions. Rick D.

My folder copy needs work. And a more drag an drop setup. Started it, but holidays got in the way. Rick D.

Does anything else have to be done to give 320K? I do have instructions and a picture at... http://www.a8maestro.com/atari/info/memory/mem130xe1.txt http://www.a8maestro.com/atari/info/memory/mem130xe1.jpg Rick D.

The battery terminals are welded to the battery case, so the pins need to be unsoldered from the cartridge board. Replace with a low profile battery socket for the future, as the picture shows. Radio Shack does show a coin cell holder for cr2032, #270-009, don't know if its too big or too tall. Rick D

Always used(since I rarely hear)... twenty six hundred, zee 80(never heard zed80 till now). Usually the first two number digits are taken together, the rest individual numbers when not even..68000 is sixtyeight 'k' or thousand, 6800 is sixtyeight hundred, 6502 is sixtyfive 'o' 'two'(same for IC numbers), 68030 is sixtyeight 'o' '3' 'o' or sixtyeight 'o' '30'. 'O' for zero is lazy, but usually o.k. It has caused problems. I am still not sure how to pronounce "MYSQL". 99% of the time, I pronounce it the way I hear it in my brain as I READ it, I have rarely heard others pronounce these things in real life. I am not usually around other techies actually talking about this stuff. Rick D.

Its an sio device so in theory, makes no difference. Will know more soon. Rick D.

Sounds like the old MOS-FET problem. Q12 or was it Q11 in the Lynx I. You can easily try if this is the case by connecting a wire from headphone shield (the ground in for the headphones) to battery minus. It is the job of the MOS-FET component to do this connection to turn on the Lynx. If the Lynx turns on when you put the wire there then you know where your problem is. -- Karri My #1 repair on dead Lynxes is to resolder the three pins on the power adapter jack. Rick D.

I have drivers at...http://www.a8maestro.com/atari/info/ballsr.htm. Rick D. Rick, Thanks! These drivers (or at least the LO one) work well enough to operate Urchlay's Fujichat (A8 IRC client). I managed 4800 bps. - Steve Sheppard Good. Most I get is 4800 with the ATR8000. 9600 should be doable, CPM can. But there might be something preventing it such as 2 concurrent serial streams, modem and atari. Rick D.

The computer lan network is called Gamelink II....some info at....http://www.a8maestro.com/sites/gamelink/index.htm. Rick D.

Well, 74HCT4066 are electronic switches. I think for selecting between sets of peripherals. Without them, all of the jacks are probably just connected together. Hard to know without the board. My SIO Spider is just a passive hub, no selecting/switching/buffering(but the sio daisy chain is very robust). But with upgrade features. You are more likely to have voltage/current drops, or signal noise issues with long runs. Rick D.

Well, I am with "More Than Games" and "Rix Computer Activity Tools". I am all over AtariAge and other places. Rick D.

I don't know if the AT in the name is for atr8000. It needs a special driver to use the serial port in it. I 'd like a list of Sparta drivers that can be used with other DOSes. Rick D.

I have drivers at...http://www.a8maestro.com/atari/info/ballsr.htm. Rick D.

Charles Marslett(I think) wrote this utility for mydos...http://www.a8maestro.com/atari/info/software/wmmenu8.xex. The info page is http://www.a8maestro.com/atari/info/ballsu.htm. Rick D.

Search here for "sdrive". Rick D.

I'll buy one!! Put me on the list. Hey where can you get SIO jacks? Old atari equipment(never throw away dead stuff without stripping first ), Best Electronics, possibly B&C. I have a few for my stuff/stuff I sell, at a premium. It will be in the list when done. Or you can just solder in an sio cable cut in half (or both halves so its not a dead end device). RickD.

Hi, A few of us are talking about this in chat. We are looking into making pcbs, but with a couple of changes... *) replacing the db15 with an SIO jack *) replacing the dip sw with small 1/4" push on/off types like the momentary. Fully 2 sided plated hole nice boards could be done for about $12.00 ea. I am also looking into a parts number list. What do you think? Rick D.

Right, use SIO(58457) to call a sector read/write routine. You'll put sector size into 776,777. Rick D.

Hi, There might be another one, if I can find a free place. Depends on what my life is doing at the time. Gattis or some place in San Marcos is probably central. Rick

I ran the board thru the program again, came out to about $2.90 ea in 50 lot. (double sided, solder mask, silkscreen, 10 day) Everything on it is a smd device, except the db25 connector. The boards I have had made are thru hole. Because they go into user assembled kits. Future projects include having smd boards made. Rick.

Hi, I make a lot of pcbs for various projects. For the more commercial stuff(boards aimed at the hobbyists to assemble themselves), I use Expresspcb. I find its features are more inline with the needs of very small commercial and hobbyist stuff(boards larger than 2 x 3 inches). There are a few features lacking, but it works very well. The fact that you can create all of the custom parts you want is fantastic. The three major orders I sent in came back as outstanding. For simple prototyping, items that will need very few boards made, and tiny boards, I do them myself. Mostly with an object based graphics program. I iron on the reversed image using PNP Blue. One tiny board, 3/4" by 1.25" would have cost around $edit in 100 qty to have made. Doing them myself in batches of 20, they are about 85 cents. EDIT:(14oct)I used the pcb program to re-compute the board cost, it is actually $2.90 each, batch of 50. Double sided boards will always be harder to make. Rick D.

If you unzip the download, you will see three GCP disk images as well as a Lords of Space image. Ah. O.k. I was just going by what the page itself said, not the download. Rick D.

I found my GCP package. I have scanned the front and back of the disk holder. Rick D.