jc13

That's how I've been trying it (along with any other order I can try) . Still just a regular reset. I've verified that the select key is working by loading the 1200xl rom in one of the U1MB rom slots and using the self test. Definitely enable in the U1MB setup screen too. Like I said, the reset/help works every time. Just to confirm, select/reset should work in SpartaDOS or from any other loaded program right? Basically, I just want to set the U1MB to boot to the loader, so that I can return to it from within a game just by select/reset. This function wouldn't have anything to do with the OS rom being used at the time would it?

Just got the U1MB installed in my 1200xl and while I think it's working, I can't get it to do the cold reset by using reset/select even though it's enabled in the BIOS. I was thinking that it should take me back to the logo screen, but it seems to be just a normal reset. I can do the reset/help then "c" to get what I consider a cold boot, but that's the only way. Is there something I'm missing here?

I just installed the revD into my 2600 6 switch and followed Bryan's blog posting (mostly), but I found it was a little easier to locate the jumper headers underneath and then solder a socket to the top of the board for the 4050 instead of soldering to the top of the chip. Just thought it might help someone and it's also a little easier to undo if you need to remove the UAV for any reason. The board works great and thanks to Bryan for his hard work! -John

Thanks everyone - new 6507 arrived yesterday from Best and it's working well now. -John

I'd appreciate that - if you'll PM your address I'll get it back to you. It may not be in too bad shape - I didn't see any smoke. Regarding my color bleeding issue, I'm going to try to pull the TIA from another console to see if I can get that cleared up since it's there even in the RF output.

Well I gave that a shot and it didn't change anything, but I'm still not sure why it would have. I'm not understanding what the difference between lifting pin 6 or lifting on end of the 680 resistor would be. I'm afraid it doesn't matter anyway at this point because something went south while I was enjoying a little Space Invaders I lost the video out and the board was really hot. RF still works, but I think my UAV is dead. I was thinking of a way to keep the 4050 in circuit without having to solder onto the chip itself, and I think if you put the jumper block facing down on the UAV, you could use a wire wrap socket (with long leads) instead of the header pins and they would plug into the original CD4050 socket and let you put the CD4050 on top of the UAV.

I saw that one and I have pin 6 on the TIA lifted out of the socket. That accomplishes the same thing right?

They are on the resistors that are tied to the TIA pins. I referenced another photo I saw on the forum and then verified continuity. Disregard what looks like a solder problem at R212 with the color line - I de-soldered it while testing. I didn't lift any of the pins or try to remove the RF modulator since it didn't seem to be needed with this kit and I was planning to just plug it in until I had the problem with the fire buttons. Do you have the RF modulator removed?

Yeah - yours looks nice! It's actually a CRT, not a flatscreen, but I agree, something's not quite right. I though I saw something Bryan posted about lifting one leg of a mixing cap, but the posts a spread over several threads and I can't seem to get back to the ones that seem relevant.

Ok, so can I get an opinion on whether this looks normal. Three pics below, all composite but with various states of the color line. First one is normal wiring with color attached where Bryan showed it in his recent posting, and the bottom left corner shows what I'm talking about. The second pic is with the same wiring, but with the color/bw switch on b/w - still a little red coming through in the same spots. The third is with the UAV color line tied to ground. The fourth one may show what's happening a little better - zoom on the bridge and where the red overlays the blue, it seems to be a little late being drawn. EDIT: Sorry for the rotated photos - they looked fine on the PC???

I've got a loose Crazy Climber cart that I got as part of an auction lot. I'm looking to get rid of it to cover some of my costs for repairing some non-working consoles and I'm not really into collecting individual carts since I got the Harmony. It's in OK shape, but missing the end label, and the front label looks like it had a price tag sticker on it at some point. I didn't try to clean it off because I know I'd screw it up... Thanks, John Edit: I've moved this to eBay if anyone's interested.

I'm pretty sure I've got this thing wired right, but the picture seems washed out (but crystal clear) on s-video and composite has a good bit of ghosting. Re-connecting pin 6 on the TIA brings the color up for a second, but then goes completely away. Also, the trim pot doesn't seem to do anything, but to be honest, I'm not sure what it's supposed to do. I thought I saw a pic of a 6 switch direct wired, but I can't find it now, so if anyone has a pic of the connection points for a L6'er I'd appreciate it.

I ended up direct wiring it and leaving the 4050 in place, but it seems like it might be a little over driven. I've got some ghosting that I need to work on. Is there an easy way to adjust?

I installed the UAV in a L6 2600 (replaced the 4050) following the pics in post #297 and while the video looked good, I had trouble with the joystick fire buttons. Since the buttons use pins 9 and 10 (P1) and 6 and 7 (P2) of the CD4050 is there something else I should do to make them work correctly? My symptoms were that fire would work for a few seconds, then not work, and then start working again. I'm thinking about just wiring it in directly and leaving the 4050 in place unless I missed something on the install. Thanks - John

Since it only happened once the console warmed up, I broke out the compressed air (upside down) and started cooling each chip. When I cooled the 6507 I noticed that it started working again (for a while). Then I swapped in the CPU from a console that didn't have the problem and the crashing stopped.

Swapped in the 6507 from the H6 and Draconian's been running for a solid 10 minutes now. Looks like I've got a marginal CPU rather than a bad Harmony cart - I should have known better! Now, If anyone has a spare they'd like to sell me, I can move on with my UAV mod... Also, if someone could change the title of this thread to "not necessarily a problem with a Harmony cart" please do!!!

So... I dug out my heavy sixer to test with and after much swapping, it seems that I have a problem with the 6507 CPU once it heats up, but I've never experienced it with anything but the Harmony cart. Just leaving it at the Harmony menu takes about 7-8 minutes for the garbled menu to start, but playing Draconian will make it freeze / black screen or reset the game in about 2. Freeze spray on the 6507 every minute or so will let me play indefinitely (or until I run out of spray). Not sure why, but swapping in a 6507 from the H6 got me nowhere - no menu screen with the Harmony and regular cart wouldn't start. I may have to revisit that one now that I've got it narrowed down a little.

Here's a video showing the corruption of the menu. Sometimes it will still launch the game, but in this video I just got the spinner. Not shown in the video, but right after this, I put in a standard cart and had no issues. harmony.mpg

That was my first thought as well, so I replaced the caps and the voltage regulator to make sure. No change afterwards. I can play a normal cart and not have any issues, but for some reason the Harmony acts up within 10-15 minutes.

Hello everyone - I bought a Harmony cart a couple of weeks ago and now that I've had time to use it more, it looks like I may have a bad one. After roughly 15 minutes of gameplay, the menu system basically becomes unreadable and the cart won't launch any games. If I play a standard cartridge immediately afterward, it works fine. This is a light sixer that has had caps and regulator replaced (by me), and I've tried a different SD card as well, but the screen will become scrambled even if there is no SD card installed and the Harmony is sitting at the press fire button text. I've already refreshed the bios on the Harmony with no change. I have noticed that Draconian is very hit or miss as to whether it will work, but usually it hangs almost immediately after loading. I'm not sure what to do next other than try to have it replaced. I have a video I'll post when I pull it off my phone, but does anyone have ideas I haven't tried yet? Thanks, John