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NISMOPC

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Posts posted by NISMOPC

  4. Posted

     

    I have the two of the same board. I used those alternate +5V and Ground vias there at the bottom of your pic for one of my builds. Works great. I didn't try using the TxD or RxD vias there however.

     

     

    I don't have the exact same board, but that's where I tapped most of my connections. Just test them first to make sure they actually go where they are supposed to!

     

    I went for it and...

     

    ...it worked! I definitely like that all the wires are tightly soldered in one location.

     

    post-61269-0-75763800-1532648179_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-00303100-1532648185_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-98092900-1532648189_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-35361400-1532648197_thumb.jpg

     

    Now to work on getting a case.

    • Like 5

  5. Posted

    Curious question: Is there any reason why I should not use the following locations with red arrows for the SIO instead of the headers on either side? Seems to me that it would be slightly cleaner to solder the RX, TX, +5V and Gnd locations near the A5 on the PCB instead of stretched out across the other duplicate locations.

     

    post-61269-0-72362900-1532637018_thumb.jpg

  7. Posted

    Received replacement TFT screen and all is good. Next step is to solder the SIO cable and have a case printed for it.

     

    On the left is the HX8347G that came with the UNO R3 as a kit ($17.31), on the right is the ILI9341 ($12.95).

     

    I was unable to get the HX8347G TFT to work and there is not much support for it from seller or the link the seller provided. So I ordered a ILI9341 compatible TFT and it arrived today. It even came with a "USER MANUAI" :P and a stylus.

     

    Within minutes of opening the package, slapping the TFT on the UNO board and updating eeprom, I've got a working SDrive-MAX.

     

    post-61269-0-71186500-1532551412_thumb.jpg

    • Like 5

  9. Posted

    one side note if on problems with the TFT.

    please ensure that the screen is using 8bit parallel communication to the arduino and NOT the SPI interface

    My first screen did not work because of that, although it had the right controller chip

     

    cheers

    Michael

    Might be a dumb question, but with these cheap Chinese TFT screens anything is possible. Is there a way to tell if it's using 8bit or not? No documentation came with the screen and of course there isn't much for support online either. Thanks

  11. Posted

     

    Did you get any help with this? I'm in the same place, flashed to 0.8b stuck on screen calibration, doesn't respond to touch

    No. I also sent email to ebay seller with issue.

     

    They had me try running some things on it to see if it worked. Couldn't get any of them to run.

     

    I ordered a ILI9341 compatible TFT that will be here tomorrow. Will test that. If it works, I'm going to request a refund or a replacement for the other TFT screen.

     

    I'll update this post tomorrow.

  12. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    That LCD is supported... Download the distribution and copy the HX8347G files over the ones in the main folder and run sdrive.bat.

    THANK YOU!!!!!! I must have overlooked that!

     

    OK, so I flashed the correct atmega328-hx8347g hex files using SDrive.bat. The screen does show successfully with the cross hair for callibration, but it does not sense touch. So I am currently stuck at the calibration screen and unable to go any farther at the moment.

     

    I am using Windows10 and intially flashed with Xloader, but then ran the bat to overwrite Eeprom.

     

    Hate to muddy up this thread, but looking for some support and/or direction.

  13. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    Just an informative post so you don't do what I did.

     

    Got my eBay UNO R3 + 2.8" TFT combo today from https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-set-UNO-R3-ATmega328P-Development-Board-Touch-Screen-Shield-for-Arduino/292243532939

     

    With excitement I opened the package and was immediately bummed...

    ...took a look at the TFT and realized it wasn't the one in the picture (this one has home, mail, phone, music, etc touchscreen).

     

    Went to www.mcufriend.com and saw that this is a HX8347G. Quick Google search and this came up ==> Chip ID: 0x7575 = HX8347G LCD driver

     

    I took a chance at $17.31 shipped for the combo and didn't pay off in the end. Still need to purchase the correct ILI9341 compatible LCD.

     

    Pictures. (Nice package, just wrong LCD)

     

    post-61269-0-04250300-1532045632_thumb.jpg

    post-61269-0-74259600-1532045636_thumb.jpg

  16. Posted

    Got mine soldered up today and it worked first time with a 1N914 diode I had laying around. From what I can see of your board in the above picture it appears to be the same board. This is running on SIO power from a 600xl. Thsi is the board I ordered:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AR7YJ3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    Any chance of buying one of those cases? They look great!

     

    I was wondering about that! I used the 1N914 for my USB SIO2PC that I made and when I saw this one required the 1N4148, I was slightly confused. My board and screen should be here any day now. I have both diodes, but think I will stick with the 1N914...

     

    ...even thought the 1N4148 is supposed to be an improved version of the 1N914 and can be used in place of it?!?!

  18. Posted

    I am adding these images to show the full damage of the joystick. Since I know Hyperkin is/was responding to some forum posts, this might also provide them more details into their flawed units.

     

    Overall build of joystick seemed good, but I see two area's of improvement. Use of proper flexible joystick insert and larger nubs to contact the tactical buttons. The criss/cross pattern of the nubs (small posts) are not very precise. This appears to be the reason one of the buttons is destroyed and the other dented pretty bad. The joystick insert cracked between the location of the two damaged tactile buttons assuming the nubs were misaligned after it cracked causing the further damage.

     

    Top of unit:

    post-61269-0-99581800-1531342395_thumb.jpg

     

    Bottom of unit:

    post-61269-0-15166500-1531342401_thumb.jpg

     

    Fully disassembled:

    post-61269-0-87854700-1531342409_thumb.jpg

     

    Joystick insert cracked:

    post-61269-0-92849400-1531342421_thumb.jpg

     

    Completely destroyed tactile button:

    post-61269-0-14718400-1531342430_thumb.jpg

     

    Dented tactile button:

    post-61269-0-77613000-1531342436_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

  19. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    Hyperkin responded to my email (included details and video of broken joystick)

     

    Back story: http://atariage.com/...n-77/?p=4067502

     

    They provided two options were given:

    1. They can replace the joystick with a CirKa A77 Item Number #M07210 (Not branded by Hyperkin and not warrantied)

    2. Then can replace the joystick with the "upgraded" version Hyperkin joystick, but will not be available until Fall (ETA October 2018)

     

    I opted for option 2, because I feel that since I paid for a working unit, I should have a working unit.

     

    So far their customer service response is top notch and I look forward to getting the upgrade. Still bummed the original broke within 30 mins of receiving it, but willing to be patient since this is a new item that was highly anticipated.

  21. Posted

    I no longer need the 850 interface. Recently replaced it with an ICD P:R:. It is in excellent condition and works perfectly. Comes with original power supply and the original manual that was hole punched so I placed it in a binder.

     

    I received the 835 Modem in a lot I purchased a while ago and purchase the power supply separately to go with it. The unit powers on, but I am unable to do any further testing. No manual is included with the modem. Appears to be in great condition, but has yellowed slightly from age.

     

    PM me if interested. Thank you...

     

    $150 shipped (USA only) OBO

     

    post-61269-0-45182700-1531272156_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-03564700-1531272161_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-92515700-1531272164_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-41761800-1531272172_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-81745300-1531272176_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-22295100-1531272184_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-23442900-1531272189_thumb.jpg

  22. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    I initially bought this thinking I would master this unit and use it to connect my Atari 8-bits online. After some attempt at understanding how this unit works, I honestly felt like I made the wrong decision and was unable to learn how to use it. Eventually went to a 850 interface and now a ICD P:R:

     

    When I bought it, it was listed as open box new. It appears to be in excellent condition and powers up as it should. I was never able to figure out the configuration for my Atari's.

     

    No manual or CD comes with the unit. It did not come with it when I bought it.

     

    $50 shipped (USA only)

     

    PM me if interested. Thank you

     

    post-61269-0-44139600-1531270653_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-44893600-1531270658_thumb.jpg

     

    post-61269-0-02989200-1531270663_thumb.jpg

  23. Posted

    attachicon.gifIMG_20180710_170024.jpg

     

    As I suspected, the handle insert is a hard and brittle plastic. Atari ones had some flex to them though they stress fractured with prolonged use.

     

    Waiting for a response from Hyperkin. I spoke with a support person (Leslie) on the phone (909)-397-8788 and sent an email to [email protected] with details regarding the damage per her request.

     

    Appears to be the same insert design as Atari. Wonder if the Atari insert would work.

    • Like 1
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