NISMOPC

Should have it packaged up today and shipped out. -Brandon

The "ATARIBox" ?! or wait... The "ATARI VCS" Seriously: Any date on the article to try to match up with a prototype of Atari then or similar?

Well I almost pulled the trigger until I realized I need the opposite on the other end of the cable and apparently no one makes a 40P female socket to ribbon adapter. I would need to plug the expansion into a socket at other end. Was liking this idea until I hit that snag and seems like a breadboard soldered with 40 wires to a socket would be bulky and not ideal.

Carts are probably needed cleaned. Rarely do they go bad. Especially the ATARI branded one's that are encased woth protective.

Sounds promising!!! I love the quality of his work, so maybe I'll be patient...

I LIKE that idea. Hmmm.... Might look into this! Thank you!!

It's the standard board - based on everything I read and understood, there was only one version (I have the newest one with the 3 pin connector). Did I overlook that there was a version made specifically for the 600XL???

My goal was to add the din output to the 600XL and use it as my main 8-bit because of the small factor and top loading cartridge slot. I now have to rethink my alternatives. I have my original 800XL from when I was a teen, a 65XE and a 130XE. So might have to choose one of those as my daily now...

That's not the concern/issue. Even if I do replace the dual wipe socket with a machine pin socket, it will still sit too high in the rear due to the IC that is mounted under the board sitting on the 74LS08 IC. The only possible way this might fit the 600XL is to remove the 74LS08 socket, solder the IC directly to the board, remove the ANTIC socket and solder the 512 KB expansion board to the 600XL directly. Two things happen... 1. I've removed the use of sockets of the 600XL 2. The expansion board still might not clear the 74LS08 It's a tight fit with little to no tolerance. Also, even if I get it to fit, the bottom of keyboard hits the expansion board not allowing case to close properly.

HA! I thought of all kinds of not so smart things to try. As you can see, it'ss not even in the soccket at that moment. Just sitting on top of it to show the amount of gap between the pins and the socket due to it resting on the 74LS08 IC.

tf_hh - sent you a PM. Posting here as well to see if anyone else has any thoughts... Finally getting around to installing the 512 KB in my 600XL. Ran into a snag that I couldn't find any info on. This motherboard is fully socketed (AWESOME!!!), which poses a problem. The back of the boards pins will not sit flush in the ANTIC socket. The board is sitting against the upper chip. If I push it in, the board is slanted upward in rear. After further testing, even if I get a low profile riser socket - even with the shield removed, the keyboard/top case will not sit flush with the unit. About a 1/4-1/2" gap. So, it appears this expansion is not compatible with a "socketed" 600XL. Thoughts, suggestions, ideas?

Nope. Received this one in a lot. All I did was open it to see how it looked inside, cleaned it up, tested it with what I could and listed it. No longer have a 5200, so unable to fully test. It actually came with cracked rear cover ( Was in three pieces) and destroyed front cover (in trash now). This evening, for shniggles, I actually taped the rear cover back together with clear heavy duty packing tape. Came out decent, so I'm going to throw it in when i ship it. Never know. The winner might get a kick out of it.

SOLD!

Guys, I was blessed to get my hands on two of these within less than two weeks, but only really wanted/needed one. So, the other one has to go. I cleaned the button contacts and the paddle pot. Everything works as it should. Was having slight issues with scratchy video output. Re-grounded the internal RF modulator and swapped out the RF cable with another one I had in a parts bin. It seems to have cured the issue, but would probably benefit from a new cable eventually. Come shipped in the original box. NOTE: There are some scratches on top of case as seen in picture. No power supply, manual, inserts or any other items come with this. You can either use batteries or a standard Atari 2600 power supply. Asking $50 + shipping or shoot me an offer via PM. SOLD! Thanks! Picture taken on a LCD TV set to channel 4 using an RF to COAX adapter (not included).

Cheap way to get a 5200 2-port. No controllers or power supply included. Needs a few items to be perfect or can be used as is with the addition of above missing items... Starting bid $0.99 and FREE shipping as always. SOLD! https://www.ebay.com/itm/332632234830

Nice and very clean set-up. 64K upgrade. Ready to go... Starting bid $0.99 USD and FREE shipping as always. SOLD! https://www.ebay.com/itm/332631047351

How do we go about purchasing these? Is there a purchase thread or link? Definitely interested in purchasing one.

OK. Here is where I am at now. I cleaned the entire board and all the switches with electronics cleaner. I did not have to mess with the paddle pot at all. Smooth as butter. I removed the RF modulator from the board and opened it up. As I was opening it, I noticed it wasn't properly grounded to the case like the 2600's I possess or have possessed. So I re-assembled the RF modulator and made sure it was properly grounded to the case with solder. in this picture you can see where there is NO solder between board and case in the upper corner where it protrudes and a very small amount in the lower corner. I added solder to both locations (forgot to take a picture). Soldered the RF modulator back to the C-380 main board, tested it and made some adjustments to the RF pot to get it to work on Channel 3. I then re-assembled the whole unit. I am still getting some color shadowing artifacts on the left sides of all the graphics, so I have contacted B & C for a replacement RF modulator and pray that takes care of the strange shadowing I am seeming. All in all, I'm pretty happy with the results going from NO color at all to color and working. For anyone who might run into issues in the future, I am hoping this will help them: 1. Recommended power source is the same used for the Atari 2600. - Input: 120 VAC 60Hz 200mA - Output: 9VDC 500mA - or you can use 3 "C" batteries 2. It operates on Channel 3 per the manual 3. Turn the TV/Monitor speaker volume all the way down (OFF) - Sound comes from the internal speaker on the unit only. - TV sound will be static sound only as stated in manual 4. Correct RF Modulator part # is CA010410 (Same as the 2600 Heavy Sixer with no channel change switch)

Getting closer. Appears RF modulator is bad. As I'm adjusting internal pot inside of mod, I can get color, but picture is corrupt. Touching pot also causes flickering of color and black/white.

Well, just need to figure out the no color issue. See edit above...

I purchased this off ebay for a low price. It is in excellent condition and even came with the box, cardboard insert and manual. Came with a Commodore computer RF switch, but I am using a standard RF to COAX adapter. Problem is, when I turn it on, I hear nothing but static through the speakers and the picture is black & white. There is no 2/3 channel switch and it only seems to work on channel 3. I tried channels 2 & 4 as well, but picture is all garbled up as expected. I've even tried swapping the RF cable. It seems to be getting a decent signal to TV, because the TV actually goes into STEREO sound mode (which I found odd as well) I am using a standard 2600 power supply which is the correct power source as well per manual. UPDATE: Just watched some videos. The sound is normal out of the TV. The sound comes out of the unit itself ONLY. So problem is with black & white only. I've opened it up and see nothing immediately stick out as bad. Thoughts? The day I received it: On channel 3 - Clean picture, but black & white picture: What it looks like on channel 2 & 4: The board with buttons, speaker and rotary removed:

Today's delivery. So stoked...

Glad to see you got it working! My 850 came in a lot I purchased a few months back and thankfully worked just fine. Maybe you could open up the "bad" one and look for loose solder points on the SIO connector as well as any possible cracked traces. The board in this is pretty robust, so I doubt the traces are cracked. As for the NOS 850, well, that just SUCKS!

Yes it did and thanks! Maybe next time...

Yes, I'm using Ice-T 2.80 Alpha 7 @ 9600 baud ==> http://atariage.com/forums/topic/217539-ice-t-xe-276-released/page-6?do=findComment&comment=3090553 The TI-99 is my original unit from my pre-teens, and the Little Professor is also mine from whenever it was given to me in my youth. The 800XL on the shelf and one of the 1050 drives is also my original units from early teens. All work as expected... The ATARI badge is leftover from a severely damaged 400 (after seller decided not to secure it in a lot I received) that I brought back to life with another used case off ebay.