Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

NISMOPC

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    800

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by NISMOPC

  2. Posted

    my 400s tend to breed in my basement so I don't "need" another one. But that's a keyboard I don't have. I'm sure the sticky keys can be fixed. But on the same token I am not going to pay crazy money for it. I'll see where it is on the last day

     

    Sorry guys, had some issues with my logon, but that's been taken care of or I would have responded sooner!

     

    That's my auction :-D and the keys are "finicky" not sticky :P

     

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/274073-atari-400-w64k-mosaic-card-joytyper-keyboard-410-recorder-and-more/

     

    From my testing, I found out if you attempt to type fast, they don't always recognize pressure, but if you just type slowly and evenly, they appear to work just fine.

  4. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    Here is an opportunity to own a 400 with some rare upgrades.

     

    Had every intention on keeping this unit after all the work I put into getting it back in one piece, but have changed my mind and am looking for other ATARI projects to work on. It's a very clean unit that I thoroughly went thru during re-assembly.

     

    • ATARI 400 w/64K Mosaic RAM Card upgrade and JOYTYPER 400 keyboard Add-On
    • ATARI 410 Program Recorder with brand new drive belt - Successfully loads applications
    • ATARI BASIC Cartridge (CXL4002)
    • ATARI 400 Owners Manual, ATARI 410 Owners manual & ATARI 400 Schematics in a retro binder
    • "Your ATARI Computer" guide book

    * I also included the original serial # sticker and Mosaic upgrade sticker salvaged from the old case.

     

    SOLD!

     

    Saving one ATARI at a time.

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

    I purchased a Atari Jr recently under same scenario as you. Cheap, came with a few cartridges and original box.

     

    When I got it, nothing would show up on screen when powered on. All scrambled and static sound.

     

    Took me only a few mins to fix it. Needed to adjust the RF coil with an allen wrench. Worked perfectly. Little things like this are overlooked by most, because they do not know any better.

  7. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    My original 800XL is still working just fine. Probably purchased around the same time (1984-ish) - mT memory is all good.

     

    I have also had several 800XL's, 65XE's and 130XE's pass thru my hands. The only one's I had issues with were the 65XE's and mT chips were bad. Replaced all with socketed and just replaced the bad memory with original mT chips I had. The 800XL's and 130XE's were just fine, but can't recall if all of them had mT or not.

  11. Posted

    Got this on ebay for $16.94 shipped! :-o

     

    Seller stated: "Game seems to be working except, controller is malfunctioning and did not work the game as intended. Maybe a tinkerer can get it to work....top button seems to be shorting out the video."

     

    Took a chance that the seller wasn't aware of the wonderful Atari 2600's lack of graphical capabilities and the known flickering in the game due to this. Received it today, and just tested. Works perfectly! Flickering and all!! :grin:

     

    post-61269-0-82785900-1513202984_thumb.jpg

    • Like 2

  14. Posted

    Here are some of my more recent ebay finds:

     

    Atari 600XL

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/332448841919

     

     

    That was mine ;-) Hope you enjoy it.

     

    Thought it was in excellent condition, especially after I upgraded it to 64K and you definitely got it at a good price!

     

    I have 2 more just like it. Kept one for myself (always loved the small form factor) and will be selling the other soon (unit only).

  16. Posted

    When you get them, check the coefficient on them. If not NP0/C0G, dont bother installing them. You could run into other issues if you use something with a different coefficient. As the temperature changes, so will the value of the cap. Which could lead to other odd issues.

     

    With ceramics its always best to put in the exact cap the engineers specified. They picked that specific rating for a reason.

    Well, appears these are NOT NP0/C0G. At least there is nothing in the specs to identify this. Just received them today and they are about 1/4 the circumference of the original one. TINY!

     

    post-61269-0-47171100-1512511292_thumb.jpg

  19. Posted

    Ceramic caps dont leak or seep. And are generally very reliable.

     

    Im not sure what that is on the bottom of that cap. But if you replace it, make sure you get one that is rated NP0 or C0G. That is a specific rating on how the cap handles temperature changes. And NP0/C0G is one of the most stable rated.

    I bought some 47pF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitors off ebay. Should be here in a couple days. I have no idea of the rating as the listing didn't not list any reference to NP0 or C0G.

     

    As you stated, I have no idea of the discoloration on the disc either, but it stood out as an indication of potential issue, so hopefully this takes care of it.

  20. Posted · Edited by NISMOPC

    Well, I decided to take it apart and look around.

     

    The only thing that seemed out of place or a potential issue is the cap located at C211 - Cap. Ceramic Disc 47pF (50V). Looking in the FSM, it shows that this cap is directly related to color issues on the light sixer.

     

    Does this cap look like it's seeping or seeped? Do disc style caps actually seep?

     

    Also, if I am reading the FSM correctly, it states that a Cap. Ceramic Axial 22pF (50V) is an alternate part that can be used.

     

    Thoughts?

     

    post-61269-0-49708900-1512171502_thumb.jpg

  21. Posted

    So, I have a light sixer. When I turn it on it is black & white (grey shades). If I switch between B&W and color, there is definitely a difference in shades of grey. B&W setting is more defined where color setting is lighter shades of grey. All graphics appear on the screen, so not missing anything there.

     

    Here's where it gets odd. If I change the channel on the TV (tube TV) from say 2 to 3 then back to 2, the console is in full color. Perfect picture. As soon as I power off the unit and turn it back on, color is gone. This does not matter if I am on channel 2 or 3 on the console or the TV. Just changing the channel and then going back to set channel do I get full color.

     

    I have tuned both the color and red tower pods with no positive results. Still grey, no color.

     

    Using an RF to COAX adapter. Works perfectly with all my other units.

     

    Thoughts?

AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...