NISMOPC

Since I bought a couple of these empty pcb boards and After reading your post about audio possibly being to hot, I tried a different approach. I did not install the 75k over ground/video this time. I installed 6.8k on the Pokey R6 and 18k on the TIA R5. Tested on my 20" CRT and then for shniggles on my game room 32" lcd. I don't notice much difference in sound and no difference in video, but did a cleaner install this time. VID_20210205_203303508.mp4

Not sure if you can tell in the pics, but the resistor is inline on the black wire from R6. The brown wire comes off of R5 then connects to the end of the 6.8K resistor before going to the small board. So no, the R5 & R6 are not bridged before the resistor. R5 bridges to R6 after the resistor. Also, I am only knowledgeable enough to be dangerous, but here is my thinking of what is going on. Removing the 6.8k from Pokey and removing 18k from TIA, then only putting a 6.8K back on to the TIA would essentially net the same results wouldn't it? By not restricting the Pokey anymore and restricting the TIA approx .1/2 of what it originally was restricted to seems accurate to me??

So, here are some pics. The 6.8k is inline on the wire coming from R6 under heat shrink. R5 is connected to R6 after the resistor and then both go to audio in on small board.

The unit is back together now, so I can't recall 100% which feed I did, but my audio output is balanced well between TIA sounds and POKEY music on Commando. I'm going to take a look at it again tonight.

So I did the composite mode on my 7800 and everything worked, but was curious about the 6.8k resistor used to balance volume between Pokey and TIA output. I opted to remove the R5 and R6 resistors and bridge the bottom solder points as well as inline a 6.8k resistor and all is fine, but after looking at the schematics I noticed something intersting. Appears the stock resistor in R5 is already a 6.8k (which I removed) and the stock resistor in R6 is a 18K (also removed). Is there any reason I would want to have those resistor values on each feed instead of just a 6.8K on the TIA feed and nothing on the Pokey feed?

This is great! So many incredible things going on with this Fujinet!!

I purchased an extra cart from a flea market 2+ years ago for $5 (he was asking $8). Specifically bought for the Pokey, so yes it was worth it at that price. Pokey now resides in my Concerto cart. ?

If you're hungry - You have have to eat. If you're thirsty - You have to drink. If you're no-Pokey - You have to Pokey.

I actually just recently rcvd one of those (800XE), but haven't opened it yet to see which version I have. I also just found out my Sharp Aquos 4:3 LCD accepts PAL signal, so this could get interesting. Might be able to finally see some of these 1000's of PAL demo's on PAL hardware

Awesome. Just ordered that specific unit from Amazon Prime (delivers tomorrow) for just over $9 shipped (had a $3 coupon).

I am using a USB 5v 3A Motorola PSU for the 130XE as well as a generic 5v 3A for the Fujinet - I actually haven't thought about that. I'll try a stock PSU as well on the 130XE w/o USB power to Fujinet to see if any difference. I have several of the nice big PSU's, so I can try them out as well.

I'm thinking the same. If I remove the Fujinet all together, the picture is also very crisp and super clean. Not an issue. I'll continue to power it separately and either get a USB cable with built in switch OR add on/off switch to the Fujinet. I originally opted to buy the Fujinet w/o the switch.

Interesting observation with my modified 130XE and SIO power vs. USB power on Fujinet 1.0. I've added 512K SRAM, DUAL Pokey and 4in1 OS switch and am using a S-Video cable to LCD. If I power the Fujinet from SIO, I get minor vertical lines in display and the display has a slight dimness to it. If I power the Fujinet from USB, vertical lines completely disappear and the display is nice and crisp. I know the 130XE has poor shielding, but any thoughts why powering the Fujinet off USB would resolve that?

Just rcvd my ACE80XL (#006) in the mail. ? THANK YOU @netcoord99

I'm located northern part of Columbus (Lewis Center), but as @Tillek stated, the 400/800 need to have the FujiNet powered by separate USB power. I would try that 1st.

My guess is that someone swapped the stock OS with a BOXX XL eprom. You would need to source a stock OS ROM and swap it. That chip is more then likely socketed, especially if it's a non-stock OS.

WOW! Looking forward to this. My 7800 daily use power supply buzzes and interferes with TV via speakers. Was planning on a modern type adapter, but this will be perfect since I have several PSU's that are similar to the one you are using.

Thank you! I couldn't find the details. Now I know ?

@batari - Bumping my post from Tuesday since it appears to have been overlooked. Is this a known issue?

I am upgraded to most recent firmware 0.95 (just got cart today and loaded via Harmony software and Windows). In the setup menu when I scroll down with joystick it backs out of the menu as soon as I get to Discard Changes and Exit. I am unable to go past that setting. Is that normal? I saw on a 2016 video review he was having the same issue. Can't recall reading anything in posts about this. Other than that, this thing is amazing! Thank you!

Received mine today. It wasn't hard to open at all. I just pressed in on the top outer shell sides on the open cart end side of the cart. Then I slowly pulled up as I pressed on the middle sides, then the rear sides. It came apart quite easily. Same with my $5 Ballblazer flea-market find that's getting it's Pokey transplanted this evening into the Concerto. My other spare Pokey was already used for dual-Pokey stereo on my 130XE. Pressing in while pulling up seems to be the trick. If not, you are putting direct upward force on tabs which will break them.

Removed capacitor blob. Much cleaner ?

Nice. Might want to ask Admin to have this moved to the FUJINET section forum.

As can be seen, mine is the wonderful "blob" version and I will be removing all of them. I will read up on the C77/C78 as well before removing those two. This is the first time I read about those two.

I saw that. Going to do the cap removal as a first pass since they are known to cause issues anyhow. No need for them...