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Everything posted by hueyjones70

  1. I did not try it on any equipment. I always check power supplies with a multimeter before I use them.
  2. The transformer is sold by Tpower. You can find the on eBay, Amazon and numerous other places.
  3. I meant to say that the transformer that I bought does not have an output amperage nor a VA listed. The only thing that it gives is the output voltage of 9-12 volts. It is advertised as being a replacement for the C017945.
  4. I can't find where the list an output amp, guess I'll have to hook it up and test it.
  5. I recently bought a power supply that was advertised as a replacement for the 9VAC Atari power supply. I tested it and my two multimeters show 11.3 and 11.4 VAC. Is that acceptable or am I going to fry my computer/disk drive if I use it?
  6. Thanks for the info, I will try using the 1770s on my mixed parts boards and save the 1772s for the SF boards.
  7. Will the 1770 IC work with this PCB and the XF551? I ask because several of the XF551s that I have were equipped with that IC on the original PCB and they are much cheaper.
  8. Will the 1770 IC work with this particular setup and/or the mixed parts board that was designed for the XF551? I ask because several of the XF551s that I have were equipped with that IC on the original PCB and they are much cheaper.
  9. Finally finished my prototype. It involved some major work on the inside of the case and I would not have been able to accomplish it without some woodworking experience and tools. Now that I have done one, the next one should be easier, quicker and better. I posted an album but I don't know how to link it to this topic.
  10. hueyjones70

    SF354 Repurposed

    First time posting an album and everything is in reversed order of what I intended.
  11. hueyjones70

    SF354 Repurposed

    I finished the repurposing of a SF354 drive today. The only thing that I have been able to salvage from this project is the SF354 case itself. There are at least 3 different types of cases. I bought 7 or 8 SF354s. Only four of the ones I bought had the 34 pin cable connector. I wasn't able to get any of them to work reliably with the new PCB. Sometimes they would boot and sometimes not. I have one that will boot DOS 2.5 single density about 1 in four tries. Another problem with the drives was that only one of the four with the right connectors would fit inside the case with the PCB. I decided to focus on modifying the case to fit a more modern 3.5 floppy. I cut the rectangular hole in the front of a SF354 case that had the slanted openings and the large centered eject button. The distance between the top and botton of the existing holes was just about percect for the floppy that I had. I cut the hole with a cabinet makers saw and filed down the edges. I am going to work on a way to make the opening more precise. I would also like to make a plate for the rear of the case that could be glued on and have holes that more closely matched the required holes for switches and connectors.
  12. I have decided that the only way to make something good come out of this is to cut a rectangular opening for a standard 3.5 floppy in the front of the case of those drives with the slanted openings (unless you happen to have a drive that is working). I have no slanty drives that will boot or even read a disk. I did this to one case. Now I need to raise the drive up 1/4 inch above the present supports. I am thinking small wooden strips or some small vinyl washers. Then find a way to secure the board. I would also like to get a 3D printed rectangular rear plate cut specifically for the connectors of the new boards.
  13. This os one project that I regret having become involved with. I believe that the drives or the boards or the firmware are affected by atmospheric pressure or something. I can get a system working; booting, reading, and writing, turn everything off and an hour later the drive might not do anything correctly. The standard drives are less quirky but it order to use them, either the case or the drive will require some major modifications.
  14. How much would it cost to have a 1050 or a 551 case 3D printed?
  15. I finally got both boards working but I don't know how or why. I had one of the boards working Tuesday evening, turned everything off and the next day it wouldn't boot a drive. I reformatted disks, changed jumpers, changed out some chips and everything started working as it should. The only problem is now the only drive that would fit inside the case with the board has also stopped working correctly. It will not boot a disk. If I set it as drive 2, it will give a menu but it will not format a disk. It acts like it is trying to boot and just keeps going through the same cycle over and over.
  16. It appears that the jumpers on the SF board have to be set opposite of what would be the correct settings. I had to set mine for 8040 and OS2 to get them to work.
  17. I hadn't thought about the vice. I will try it.
  18. I am going to try this method because it seems really simple and clean. I wish I understood the circuitry involved. It seems that the video circuits would interfere with the signal.
  19. I have a success rate of about 50% when building my own flat cables, is there a special tool or technique for pressing the cable onto those pins that penetrate the insulation.
  20. I can't believe that I missed this initially, but one of the jumpers on the board was set incorrectly.
  21. I just bought an 800XL with a RAMBO 256K upgrade on EBay. When I first turned it on, everything seemed to be working and it booted up OK. I checked the ramdisk for memory and it showed only about 250 sectors available. I took it apart, saw no apparent problems and turned it on again and the computer booted to memory test and when it got to the end of the first row, the screen went black. I tried two more times with the same result. Star Raiders would boot OK. I tested all of the RAM chips and they were OK. Finally, I took out the RAMBO and the computer boots OK. I have to assume that the problem lies with one of the chips on the RAMBO board. Does anyone know of a likely suspect. The prospect of desoldering all or nearly all of those chips makes my head hurt.
  22. I have found a 314 and three 354s that have the 34 pin data cable connector and work with the new board but the 314 is the only one that the mechanism and the board will fit into the case. The 354 mechanism is about 3/8 to 1/2 longer and there isn't enough room in the case for the mechanism and the board.
  23. Do you think that a pop rivet would interfere with the operation of the mechanism?
  24. I lost a reply somehow, did you post that you would like a chance to work on the currently nonworking 1050s?

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