bszarek001

Bought a colecovision Burgertime from RJ. In immaculate condition, packed beautifully. Pleasure doing biz with.

Thanks! Was a pleasure!

Is it the pot on the rf modulator or a different pot? The inside is still wrapped in foil at this point. I will take it off if the pot is underneath, and will likely have to anyway to check for cold solder joints, etc.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like it will and there is plenty of room inside the box for the wiring and jacks. Happen to have a link to the thread by chance? Thanks.

Hello everyone, Hoping someone with experience with the Coleco Telstar Arcade can help out. I purchased this and plugged it in. Started off with black and white color, tv noise, jittery paddles, and internal speaker hum. I dont have any experience with these. I adjusted the rf modulator fine tune coil and got the color and picture working fine, but still trying to figure out the tv static noise and the internal speaker hum. Is the speaker hum normal? Also, any ideas as to how to get the audio working on the tv without the static? I turn it on and its static free for about 3 seconds, then it starts. Anyone ever repair one of these things? Anywhere I can find schematics? Thanks everyone. DA43978F-429B-46E4-A244-787403FF759D.MOV

Sorry if this has been discussed, but what have been people's impressions with the base Multi Card use in the Lynx 1? Obviously without that protection you're going to limit the number of times you pull the cart in and out of the unit. Have people found it pretty sturdy and is it easy to pull in and out of the unit? As it is, that cart slot in the Lynx 1 is pretty tight, so I'm just a little afraid to drop $100+ and grab it too tight to pull it out. Thanks all.

Hi Everyone - Relatively new (back to it, at least) to the Lynx world and I am looking to rebuild my library. I'm looking for some games like Paperboy, Batman, Ninja Gaiden, Lemmings, Robotron, California Games, Stun Runner, etc. If anyone has any they're willing to part with reasonably inexpensive, let me know! Thanks!

Oh my goodness. That was idiotic on my part. $100- new theyre $120 and this thing is barely used.

Lol. Ugh.

Hello everyone, If you are looking for an arcade quality joystick for your Atari 2600 or 7800, this is it. Incredibly high quality, custom made for me mid 2017. Ive used it a handful of times and have already upgraded within their lineup, however, this stick is in near perfect condition. The control you will have over your games will be unprecedented. Their build times are currently 4-6 weeks (from what i understand), but you can have this right now! Buyer to pay actual shipping costs. Email with any questions. Also selling an awesome Sears Tele-Games heavy sixer bundle. Check it out and we can work out a deal if you're interested in both! Thanks for looking! Per their website: Take classic Atari 2600, Atari 7800, and 8-bit computer games to a whole new level with the Super 78 - an arcade controller built around an authentic Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT ball-top joystick with an octagonal restrictor plate and two Suzo-Happ pushbuttons. Super 78 transforms gameplay on great Atari 7800 games like Asteroids, Ballblazer, Centipede, Choplifter, Commando, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Food Fight, Galaga, Joust, and more. The octagonal restrictor plate is the perfect compromise between a 4-way and 8-way joystick, providing distinct landing points for your stick in all eight directions. The Suzo-Happ arcade pushbuttons deliver true left/right two-button control just like the original Atari 7800 "Pro Line" controllers, but with none of the pain Super 78 brings new playability and excitement to classic Atari 2600 and 8-Bit computer games. The Super 78 is 100% compatible with the classic Atari CX-40 joystick familiar to owners of the Atari 2600, Atari Flashback, and many of the 8-bit era computers. When used with one of these systems, both buttons perform just like the single red fire button on the Atari 2600 joystick. But because our old-school concave arcade fire buttons are driven by super sensitive micro-switches, you can cancel your membership in the Numb Thumb Club! Easy to Play. Super 78s are built in an 8" x 14" sloped aluminum housing that is stable on the table or happy in your lap, with the joystick and classic arcade fire buttons positioned for a natural wrist position. Under the hood, all harness connections are soldered and heatshrink wrapped. The result is a controller to last a lifetime. The molded DB-9 cord length is approximately 5'6" (1.6m).

Bumping this thread -- Price reduction to $275 for this awesome bundle. Trying to thin out my inventory for another project. DM me if interested. Thanks!

Thanks everyone. I might be able to redo some portions of the paint, but it does dry fast and is difficult to work with, like I said. However, it stopped the chipping (with the exception of the cart door, which will forever be problematic), and that was my main concern. Ps - Mark, I didnt realize Id be included in on your podcast. That was a nice surprise. I loved it from beginning to end. My only recommendations would be to, if possible, include any interviews you could find with the programmers or developers. Loved the infusion of back in the day stories, which is what this is all about. Im a newbie (only 13 games I believe), but am definitely reliving my youth. I originally had a Lynx II, and remember playing it on long road trips. Im pretty sure my parents bought I for me to keep my quiet in the back of the car. I remember even back then the screen brightness and contrast being an issue..if only the McWill screen was available then. Thanks, and look forward to learning about more games (and deciding if I should buy them)! Also, loved the coin page in a binder storage idea. I may use that. Cheers!

Hey everyone -- I'm looking for a shell or non-functioning Lynx I. I don't need any accessories or anything like that. I just completed a McWill mod and it works perfectly. Unfortunately, as these models tended to do, the paint chipping was out of control. I stabilized it with a mixture of Testers paint, but the match isn't perfect and I dont feel like taking it off and sanding it, etc. If anyone has a shell or non-functioning unit in pretty good condition they'd be willing to part with, let me know. Thanks everyone!

No worries -- this is how we learn as a restoration community. Thanks for the info!

So I bought the paint, Testors flat black TT-1149 and flat grey TT-1163, mixed it as best I could to achieve the closest color I could and this is the result. It looks "ok". The paint is difficult to work with because it dries so fast and while the flat finish I think matches fairly closely to the Lynx I paint job, I believe there is a hint of blue in the original color scheme, so it's not quite matching up no matter how much mixing I do. If I'm being honest, I would rather have used a matte finish clear coat and preserved the case with the chipping to retain the patina and just stop the chipping. Overall, I'd give the result a C+ and would only recommend it for purposes of stopping the chipping, which it does successfully. Because this is the unit I did the McWill screen mod with, I'll be keeping an eye out for a console case on a "parts" Lynx to try and swap out.

Wow Mark - thanks for the info. I don't know how you were able to pull that random data from the interwebs, but i appreciate it. I've also subscribed to the podcast. It was pretty cool. I've got the paint ordered through Amazon, so I'll let you know how it turns out! Thanks for the tip!

I had the Lynx II growing up. Obviously a more compact design, which made more sense for many reasons. But playing this Lynx I now is strange but does feel pretty good. The D-pad is extremely smooth (especially since I cleaned this thing inside and out).

I did skip the vga out. See no need for it, as if Im going to play the games on a computer screen, Im likely emulating it anyway. But the mod kit did come with the nylon screws and nuts, however it did not come with the washers. I believe they were #4 washers at depot...$.49 I think. If you need the exact type and sku, I can get that for you later. The issue is that you have to hold the top of the screw inward so it doesnt slide off, while at the same time holding it straight with a small screwdriver AND turning the nut from the bottom. Its tricky to be sure. The YouTube video doesnt speak to it much. For me it was the lengthiest part of the mod.

I just finished up the wonderful McWill screen mod. I love this old system again. Next question is this --- does anyone know of a paint brand/color that will match well to the paint used on the Lynx I? I understand there is a method of taking it all apart, sanding it down, priming it, etc, but frankly I'm looking for a player, not a showpiece...However, I do want to stop the chipping. Has any one does this before and have a recommendation?

Hey everyone, I just finished my McWill LCD screen mod for my Lynx I. It wasn't exactly drop in and play, and I had my share of screw ups on my end, but after it was all said and done, it looks amazing. The most time-consuming part, for me, was finding the correct washers (buried deep in the bowels of the Home Depot) and getting the screen lined up correctly with the outside case and level to the PCB. Other than that, it's amazing. The difference is literally night and day. Thanks McWill.

Bumping - Price reduction to $315. Hello everyone, Up for sale is the latest/last of my UAV modified units. This is a sparkling, early-dated 4 switch. This was one of the cleanest units I've ever modded. I replaced the on/off momentary switch, the 7805 voltage regulator, and the TIA chip (which is expensive). I've modded the unit with a "Bryan" UAV mod, which provides the best video quality you can get. I've outfitted it with composite (RCA) outputs, as I feel the graphics are incredible using just that, but if at some point in the future you want s-video, this board can accommodate that. I don't even know how many hours I've put into this unit, but it works perfectly and is a guaranteed lifetime player. Included in this lot is the console, an OEM power supply, a CX-40 controller, a Wico Command Control "Bat" stick, a set of paddles, and 59 games - you can see in the picture what they are. Most of the games are in pretty good shape, but there are some with label issues, etc. That said, this is a great set of must have games - all have been cleaned with ISO 90. The games alone are worth around $300-350. The Wico is about $30, and the console is easily $125 with the work that's gone into it and the new TIA chip/UAV board/mod. Asking $315 for the entire lot. PM me with any questions.

For sale is a Sears Tele-games heavy sixer I LOVINGLY restored from death. Works beautifully. The console itself is in wonderful condition (see pictures). Had to replace the 7805 and the power switch. I didn’t want to, but had no choice. I’ve included an rf coax adapter for your tv. Also included are two CX-10 Sticks that I completely restored myself, one of which has the Sears hex-sticker (super rare) and the other does not, but both have been restored to perfect working order. Also included are the original Sears paddles, taken apart and cleaned- working perfectly with no jitter. I’ve included the original power supply, but it’s not working properly - will only get up to 5.5v of the required 9V output. Someone with more skill than me might be able to bring it back. I’ve also included a period appropriate radio shack replacement power supply that works perfectly. Finally are four Sears launch titles CIB - Pong Sports, Bowling, Target Fun and Baseball. The top lid to Bowling is creased and won’t stay closed - the cart is also slightly faded. Pong is pretty rare as well. This has been a project of love, but I honestly won’t play it and want it to go to a good home. Asking $275. Thanks.

This is the exact same thing that happened to me. I used the same UAV on both a 7800 and 2600 and no color. I thought I was losing my mind. Luckily I had an extra board, swapped it out, and it worked fine. There must have been an issue with the latest batch.

This was my mod - I did it prior to the published install guides. I pulled +5v from the unused RF spot and pulled the audio from the resistor. Im not sure if its optimal, but it works and sounds great.

Sorry if the video doesn’t work - tried uploading from my phone to AA forum.