Taijigamer

Check the link in this thread for the required part.

Do you have to lift a plastic lever to release the tray or does it just pull out? The previous owner may have snapped the retaining pin when trying to remove the tray forcefully. I have a FZ-1 and the tray does dip a little at full eject. As long as it doesn't cause any issue changing discs then don't worry. Check the white gears for cracks. Clean out any dust or debris that might be jamming them. The drive belt might be slack from use. I always refresh the rubber belt by placing it in fresh boiled water for 5 mins and then drying, this refreshes the elasticity. Otherwise look for a replacement belt of same size. This should sort out the tray closing issue.

Learning to solder well is definitely recommended, especially as our beloved consoles are getting older and more prone to failure. But be sure to practice on junk circuit boards until competent. The SRAM upgrade idea isn't simple and may not work. A plug in option would be easier. Maybe the memory addon module could be cloned if someone opened one up and documented the insides.

I've been looking into the storage on the 3DO. The on board storage is a paltry 32kB. The memory addon pack cited above is 256kB. I have found some 128kB and 512kB 5V SRAM chip datasheets which could probably be swapped in (with a bit of adjusting) and give a boost in memory capacity. I'll test when I get a chance.

The battery on the 3DO maintains the on-board SRAM chip which holds the limited save space for games. I think an NVRAM add-on could be purchased to increase space. To swap the battery without losing saved games, u would need to supply an external 3V to the chip while u desolder and replace the existing battery.

Save data is stored on the on board SRAM (not sure of capacity). This is maintained by the battery when powered off. I think there is an external NVRAM add-on block that could be purchased to increased save storage. I saw one on eBay a while back.

Great work. I'm not sure how hot my FZ-1 gets but the voltage regulator heat plate is big and the area still gets very hot which is why the power caps have a high failure rate. I'll check the temp of my regulators with my k-probe when I get a chance. I would recommend a cap replacement if you want to extend the life of your console. Console5 do quality cap kits (105c rated). As for RGB mods, there are a couple around. I'm working on a RGB_V2 which should be finished soon.

I've seen that mod board before. I think it's some sort of SECAM conversion as old French Tv don't accept Composite. Have you got closer pics of the motherboard? What video encoder does it use?

Yes I saw that typo. Datasheet rates it as 16V CT (centre tapped). It will still be AC voltage until it exits the bridge rectifier. Attach everything as normal. Good luck with the install. Any questions, feel free to post or PM me.

Nice find, I didn't see that one. In regards to VA, it depends on the power factor of the psu. Unless the power factor is 1, you will want some VA overhead. Maybe 35-45VA to be safe. As for output, don't worry too much about getting exactly 15VAC, that was just a DMM reading. The voltage regulators will accept 10-30V. I measured the transformer in my 3DO, the transformer u linked has the right dimensions. The one I linked is too tall by 1" :-( Just a shame about the VA. 30 VA might be enough.

Sounds about right. The FZ-1 PSU is integrated into the main PCB and is fairly generic. The only main difference is the transformer (and a common ground connection in NTSC models). Some models have fans and some don't, the connections are still there to add a fan. I have a PAL FZ-1 which has a 230V transformer and outputs ~16VAC. This is fed to a bridge rectifier and corresponding 9V and 5V regulators which can between 10V and 30V. The service manual shows an expected 20VP-P on the transformer output but my DMM only shows 16VAC. This transformer looks like a possible candidate https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS20-2200?qs=1a1zv8L%252Bh%2F2tr%252BOTTBfGVQ== Just be sure to research as much as possible on power supply electronics, this is mains voltages and things can easily get toasty with wrong application. Panasonic_FZ-1(Service_Manual).pdf

As a general rule of thumb, Early US FZ-1 - BT9101 (RGB - Yes, 240p - No) Late US FZ-1 - VP536 (RGB, 240p - Yes) PAL/ CAN FZ-1 - BT9103 (RGB, 240p - Yes) JAP - FZ-1 - VP536 (RGB, 240p - Yes) Early FZ-10 - VP536 Late FZ-10 - ANVIL (RGB - No, 240p - No) Goldstar GDO-101 - VP536 Goldstar GDO-202 - ANVIL Goldstar GDO-203 - ANVIL Sanyo Try - VP536 Not sure about serial numbers, it might be a good idea to get a database of serial numbers going so we can get an idea of what's in what.

It depends on the video encoder on board. You will have to open it to check. BT9101 cannot be modded for 240p but can still be modded for RGB. BT9103 and VP536 can be modded for both 240p and RGB. I am working on an encoder replacement mod for BT9101 3DO so that they can handle 240p but it's not a simple mod.

You could remove the rf box and cut a hole in the case there using the emf shielding cut outs as a guide. Then use a 8 pin din for RGB out. You would need to wire a switch for the 240p to replace the native switch but it would retain the aesthetics of the RGB mod.

Thanks for the info. Looks good. I will add that one to the list of 3DO horror games to play.