Taijigamer

As mentioned above. You need to use an upscaler. 3DO outputs 480i/240p. Older HD displays have analog inputs with internal scalers but they are awful. An external dedicated upscaler is needed. If you are using the S-Video output, use a retrotink 2X, 5X or 4K depending on budget. If you have an RGB mod, you have the option of OSSC as well as the retrotinks.

This is the modern equivalent you need https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/S4008DS2RP/409640 I compiled a list of components which act as modern equivalents for some of the PSU components which are now end of life. I haven’t included the electrolytic capacitors as they can be purchased via console5. I do recommend replacing C35 and C36 as standard on FZ-1. FZ-1_PSU_Component_List.numbers

Did you check it without the retrotink? Have you got an Oscilloscope to check 5V rail.

Any pictures of the motherboard? Any corrosion noticed when recapping? We’re all electrolytic caps replaced?

As I mentioned above, burn speed is not important unless using pre 2000 computers and burners. Anything modern just use the preset speed by imgburn. It’s likely that your 3DO drive laser isn’t strong enough to read cd-r. You will need an oscilloscope to tweak the laser power. I don’t recommend tweaking it blindly as it’s easy to kill them.

Absolutely, the Japanese A/B switch FZ-1 is the easiest solution but it comes down to availability and cost of the console. 240p is just as achievable with other compatible models (listed in my link) without any more cost than opening it up and adding a couple of wires and a switch. The Black Dog RGB is currently unavailable due to the IC shortage but some more should be available soon.

It mainly comes down to what aesthetic you are looking for and availability/ price. Given the age of the console, any model 3DO will benefit from a replacement of capacitors and a general cleaning of the connectors/ laser assembly. A lot of 3DO suffer from disc read problems now and new replacement lasers are not available (only pulls from other drives). This is not so much an issue now as there are 2 ODE available to buy with similar price tags. A lot of models can be modified for 240p video output and also RGB. The 240p is easy to implement on its own https://github.com/Taijigamer2/3DO_video_output_projects/blob/85dd3f774645eb4412b4d683b5b84eef0e00c1a6/240p_video_mode_on_3DO/README.md RGB can be done via a simple open source mod which is fine for consumer CRT or scaler, or by a more in-depth mod which works well on both consumer CRT and PVMs. There is also a HDMI mod due out soon.

Sounds like it could be a cap issue. Try replacing C35 and C36 to start with. They are part of the 5V generation and could cause erratic behaviour when the go bad. They are right next to the regulator heat sink and get overcooked. Any FZ-1 which hasn’t had a recap should at least have these changed as standard. Also check for any corrosion underneath them as they sometimes leak and cause damage to the pcb. Scrub with 99% IPA before soldering the new caps. If problems still persist after that, we can look at other components on the PSU.

Do you get the startup screen when the disc isn’t inserted? Have you checked voltages at the 5V and 9V regulators? Use the troubleshooting flow charts to narrow down your problem https://console5.com/techwiki/images/6/68/Panasonic_FZ-1_Technical_Guide%2C_CPD9310013G0.pdf Good luck.

Does the optical pickup move to the spindle and then move out slightly bobbing up and down? Have you cleaned the laser gently with isopropyl alcohol? Most likely a dying laser. Usually a good clean will improve things. The last option is to tweak the laser pot very slightly clockwise to strengthen the laser beam but this is only a temporary solution. It will need a laser replacement but these are rare and mostly used stock. The only sustainable option for FZ-1/10 3DO these days is an ODE. Mnemo makes these and there also is a new one in development. Not sure about the missing IC, there are 2 pcb revisions of the CD logic board, one for brush motors and one for brushless motors. I have both but I can’t remember if one doesn’t have the chip.

Have you had your 3DO recapped before? This can be a symptom of failing caps. If it’s an FZ1, you could just change C35 and C36 and see if the problem goes away but I would recommend doing a full recap to improve longevity and performance.

Have you checked the waveform directly at the crystal? Double check the soldering at pin 19 and also check the signal gets to pin 129 of the CLIO. Check C201 and C202. If the crystal is dead, you’ll want to replace with a 16.9344Mhz crystal.

The good news is you can rule out the transistors and continue the troubleshooting algorithm. Check the signals reach IC200. I would also double check the cap replacements, specifically C35, C36. These have been known to affect the sound when bad, check for corrosion or the copper traces. There are also some SMD caps near C35 and C36 that might be worth checking. Have you tried scoping the 5V power rail for stability? Also scope all the clock signals to check they are stable and in spec. Good luck.

Looks like it could be a VRAM issue. Use this service manual for guidance https://console5.com/techwiki/images/6/68/Panasonic_FZ-1_Technical_Guide%2C_CPD9310013G0.pdf check the crystal has a stable 24.5454 frequency before attempting to replace it.

X140 is a 24.5454Mhz crystal on NTSC models (29.5Mhz on PAL models). This is a possible substitute https://download.datasheets.com/pdfs/2015/7/27/21/6/36/975/eck_/manual/45424002781191880specific.aspxpartnumberec2-24.5454mtr.5454mtr.pdf What symptoms does your FZ-10 have? Have you tried recapping the system?

The datasheets and web page are correct. It mentions a complementary component in ‘features’ in the data sheet which is what you probably read. At the top it states PNP or NPN. $24 ouch. We’ve been hit by added VAT now in the UK after Brexit ? I thought it might be SOT-23, thanks for measuring. Searching the Panasonic suffixes it points towards SOT323. Ah the mysteries of legacy hardware.

It could still be the transistors causing the problem. There’s a way of testing them with a multimeter but it doesn’t confirm they are fully functional. If you have an ‘o’ scope, you could check the wave forms on the audio circuit at the op amp and the rca outputs. It might be worth just replacing Q270, 260, 240 and 220. After a bit of searching I found some modern drop ins. The code refers to TA(pnp)144(47k embedded resistor) and TC(npn)114(10k embedded resistor). The last part refers to the package type (not sure if SOT-23 or SOT-323). Here’s some possible substitutes https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/115/ds30335-71381.pdf https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/115/ds30331-71353.pdf

Looking at the troubleshooter, it says to check Q270 first. The audio transistor network is found here Base should be high and collector should be low

That’s great info. Thanks. I’m surprised no one has explored other creative labs MKE drives besides the CR-563-B. That’s great there’s another alternative source of optical drive replacements.

Still trying to look at this. Speaking to people with in depth knowledge of the 3DO software, it may require a BIOS mod to allow the CPU to access the extra memory.

Either way around is ok ( same for the input side). It’s AC voltage at this point and swings between negative and positive. Once it leaves the transformer, the negative voltage is converted to positive voltage in the bridge rectifier. https://www.teamwavelength.com/power-supply-basics/

No worries. Good luck.

The data sheet says to connect your mains cable to pins 1 & 5. Connect 2&4 together. On the output, connect your blue connector cable to pins 6 & 10. Connect your red cable to pin 8. https://imgur.com/gallery/a0AdRrn

Sorry, just checking you probed the voltage between the pins (blue connector) and not between each pin and ground (red connector). What voltage does your region use, 110V or 240V?

That’s correct, probe both pins on the blue connector (+ on one pin and - on the other). If the transformer is working, you should get 10 - 18VAC. If it’s lower than 10 VAC the transformer is faulty and needs replacing.