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Taijigamer

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Everything posted by Taijigamer

  1. Have you had your 3DO recapped before? This can be a symptom of failing caps. If it’s an FZ1, you could just change C35 and C36 and see if the problem goes away but I would recommend doing a full recap to improve longevity and performance.
  2. Have you checked the waveform directly at the crystal? Double check the soldering at pin 19 and also check the signal gets to pin 129 of the CLIO. Check C201 and C202. If the crystal is dead, you’ll want to replace with a 16.9344Mhz crystal.
  3. The good news is you can rule out the transistors and continue the troubleshooting algorithm. Check the signals reach IC200. I would also double check the cap replacements, specifically C35, C36. These have been known to affect the sound when bad, check for corrosion or the copper traces. There are also some SMD caps near C35 and C36 that might be worth checking. Have you tried scoping the 5V power rail for stability? Also scope all the clock signals to check they are stable and in spec. Good luck.
  4. Looks like it could be a VRAM issue. Use this service manual for guidance https://console5.com/techwiki/images/6/68/Panasonic_FZ-1_Technical_Guide%2C_CPD9310013G0.pdf check the crystal has a stable 24.5454 frequency before attempting to replace it.
  5. X140 is a 24.5454Mhz crystal on NTSC models (29.5Mhz on PAL models). This is a possible substitute https://download.datasheets.com/pdfs/2015/7/27/21/6/36/975/eck_/manual/45424002781191880specific.aspxpartnumberec2-24.5454mtr.5454mtr.pdf What symptoms does your FZ-10 have? Have you tried recapping the system?
  6. The datasheets and web page are correct. It mentions a complementary component in ‘features’ in the data sheet which is what you probably read. At the top it states PNP or NPN. $24 ouch. We’ve been hit by added VAT now in the UK after Brexit 😞 I thought it might be SOT-23, thanks for measuring. Searching the Panasonic suffixes it points towards SOT323. Ah the mysteries of legacy hardware.
  7. It could still be the transistors causing the problem. There’s a way of testing them with a multimeter but it doesn’t confirm they are fully functional. If you have an ‘o’ scope, you could check the wave forms on the audio circuit at the op amp and the rca outputs. It might be worth just replacing Q270, 260, 240 and 220. After a bit of searching I found some modern drop ins. The code refers to TA(pnp)144(47k embedded resistor) and TC(npn)114(10k embedded resistor). The last part refers to the package type (not sure if SOT-23 or SOT-323). Here’s some possible substitutes https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/115/ds30335-71381.pdf https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/115/ds30331-71353.pdf
  8. Looking at the troubleshooter, it says to check Q270 first. The audio transistor network is found here Base should be high and collector should be low
  9. That’s great info. Thanks. I’m surprised no one has explored other creative labs MKE drives besides the CR-563-B. That’s great there’s another alternative source of optical drive replacements.
  10. Still trying to look at this. Speaking to people with in depth knowledge of the 3DO software, it may require a BIOS mod to allow the CPU to access the extra memory.
  11. Either way around is ok ( same for the input side). It’s AC voltage at this point and swings between negative and positive. Once it leaves the transformer, the negative voltage is converted to positive voltage in the bridge rectifier. https://www.teamwavelength.com/power-supply-basics/
  12. The data sheet says to connect your mains cable to pins 1 & 5. Connect 2&4 together. On the output, connect your blue connector cable to pins 6 & 10. Connect your red cable to pin 8. https://imgur.com/gallery/a0AdRrn
  13. Sorry, just checking you probed the voltage between the pins (blue connector) and not between each pin and ground (red connector). What voltage does your region use, 110V or 240V?
  14. That’s correct, probe both pins on the blue connector (+ on one pin and - on the other). If the transformer is working, you should get 10 - 18VAC. If it’s lower than 10 VAC the transformer is faulty and needs replacing.
  15. Did you check the 2 pins on the transformer output (probe to pin, not connected to board)? If it’s still low voltage it sounds like a problem with the secondary winding inside the transformer. In which case check that other thread for recommendations for replacing the transformer.
  16. I haven’t had chance to test it yet. It might require a custom bios. It’s simply a SOP28 to TSOP32 conversion pcb to allow up to 512kb memory instead of the stock 32kb. Once I’ve had chance to test it, I will update results.
  17. I designed an SRAM upgrade board a while back but I think it will also require a bios hack to make use of the extra space.
  18. Here is the main info page with useful links https://www.black-dog.tech/3dorgb.html @citrus3000psi no longer makes the boards but has open sourced it so some resellers are making the boards and offering installs.
  19. The RGB mod replaces the function of the original video encoder when in BT9101 mode. It also enables 240p mode on BT9101 3DO which was previously not supported. It would have been another solution to your problem.
  20. That’s good to know. BT858 should be relatively easy to source. Another option would be to install @Citrus3000psi RGB mod and run it in BT9101 mode.
  21. Yes this should be fine. I use my uk transformer to run a UK board and a US board for testing purposes.
  22. There are 3 key factors in getting good burns. 1. The quality of the burner - is the laser dying? 2. The quality of the CD-R, Taiji yuden are the best choice. 3. The quality of the reader - 3DO lasers are extremely flaky at this age and there are no replacements available. Burning at lower speed is not a universal rule. It’s best to burn at the recommended speed for the media and burner. At this point I would recommend people start planning to switch to 3DO usb. Lasers are starting to fail more and there are no replacements for 3DO.
  23. Check the link in this thread for the required part.
  24. Do you have to lift a plastic lever to release the tray or does it just pull out? The previous owner may have snapped the retaining pin when trying to remove the tray forcefully. I have a FZ-1 and the tray does dip a little at full eject. As long as it doesn't cause any issue changing discs then don't worry. Check the white gears for cracks. Clean out any dust or debris that might be jamming them. The drive belt might be slack from use. I always refresh the rubber belt by placing it in fresh boiled water for 5 mins and then drying, this refreshes the elasticity. Otherwise look for a replacement belt of same size. This should sort out the tray closing issue.
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