Jump to content

Taijigamer

Members
  • Content Count

    132
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Taijigamer


  1. There are 3 key factors in getting good burns. 1. The quality of the burner - is the laser dying? 2. The quality of the CD-R, Taiji yuden are the best choice. 3. The quality of the reader - 3DO lasers are extremely flaky at this age and there are no replacements available. Burning at lower speed is not a universal rule. It’s best to burn at the recommended speed for the media and burner. 
     

    At this point I would recommend people start planning to switch to 3DO usb. Lasers are starting to fail more and there are no replacements for 3DO.


  2. Do you have to lift a plastic lever to release the tray or does it just pull out? The previous owner may have snapped the retaining pin when trying to remove the tray forcefully. I have a FZ-1 and the tray does dip a little at full eject. As long as it doesn't cause any issue changing discs then don't worry. 

     

    Check the white gears for cracks. Clean out any dust or debris that might be jamming them. The drive belt might be slack from use. I always refresh the rubber belt by placing it in fresh boiled water for 5 mins and then drying, this refreshes the elasticity. Otherwise look for a replacement belt of same size. This should sort out the tray closing issue.


  3. Learning to solder well is definitely recommended, especially as our beloved consoles are getting older and more prone to failure. But be sure to practice on junk circuit boards until competent.

     

    The SRAM upgrade idea isn't simple and may not work. A plug in option would be easier. Maybe the memory addon module could be cloned if someone opened one up and documented the insides.


  4. The battery on the 3DO maintains the on-board SRAM chip which holds the limited save space for games. I think an NVRAM add-on could be purchased to increase space. To swap the battery without losing saved games, u would need to supply an external 3V to the chip while u desolder and replace the existing battery.


  5. Great work. I'm not sure how hot my FZ-1 gets but the voltage regulator heat plate is big and the area still gets very hot which is why the power caps have a high failure rate. I'll check the temp of my regulators with my k-probe when I get a chance. I would recommend a cap replacement if you want to extend the life of your console. Console5 do quality cap kits (105c rated).

     

    As for RGB mods, there are a couple around. I'm working on a RGB_V2 which should be finished soon.


  6. Nice find, I didn't see that one. In regards to VA, it depends on the power factor of the psu. Unless the power factor is 1, you will want some VA overhead. Maybe 35-45VA to be safe.

     

    As for output, don't worry too much about getting exactly 15VAC, that was just a DMM reading. The voltage regulators will accept 10-30V.

     

    I measured the transformer in my 3DO, the transformer u linked has the right dimensions. The one I linked is too tall by 1" :-( Just a shame about the VA. 30 VA might be enough.


  7. Sounds about right. The FZ-1 PSU is integrated into the main PCB and is fairly generic. The only main difference is the transformer (and a common ground connection in NTSC models). Some models have fans and some don't, the connections are still there to add a fan. I have a PAL FZ-1 which has a 230V transformer and outputs ~16VAC. This is fed to a bridge rectifier and corresponding 9V and 5V regulators which can between 10V and 30V. The service manual shows an expected 20VP-P on the transformer output but my DMM only shows 16VAC. This transformer looks like a possible candidate https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS20-2200?qs=1a1zv8L%252Bh%2F2tr%252BOTTBfGVQ==

     

    Just be sure to research as much as possible on power supply electronics, this is mains voltages and things can easily get toasty with wrong application.

    Panasonic_FZ-1(Service_Manual).pdf

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...