Taijigamer
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Posts posted by Taijigamer
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I haven’t had chance to test it yet. It might require a custom bios. It’s simply a SOP28 to TSOP32 conversion pcb to allow up to 512kb memory instead of the stock 32kb. Once I’ve had chance to test it, I will update results.
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I designed an SRAM upgrade board a while back but I think it will also require a bios hack to make use of the extra space.
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Here is the main info page with useful links https://www.black-dog.tech/3dorgb.html @citrus3000psi no longer makes the boards but has open sourced it so some resellers are making the boards and offering installs.
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The RGB mod replaces the function of the original video encoder when in BT9101 mode. It also enables 240p mode on BT9101 3DO which was previously not supported. It would have been another solution to your problem.
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That’s good to know. BT858 should be relatively easy to source. Another option would be to install @Citrus3000psi RGB mod and run it in BT9101 mode.
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Yes this should be fine. I use my uk transformer to run a UK board and a US board for testing purposes.
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There are 3 key factors in getting good burns. 1. The quality of the burner - is the laser dying? 2. The quality of the CD-R, Taiji yuden are the best choice. 3. The quality of the reader - 3DO lasers are extremely flaky at this age and there are no replacements available. Burning at lower speed is not a universal rule. It’s best to burn at the recommended speed for the media and burner.
At this point I would recommend people start planning to switch to 3DO usb. Lasers are starting to fail more and there are no replacements for 3DO.
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Check the link in this thread for the required part.
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Do you have to lift a plastic lever to release the tray or does it just pull out? The previous owner may have snapped the retaining pin when trying to remove the tray forcefully. I have a FZ-1 and the tray does dip a little at full eject. As long as it doesn't cause any issue changing discs then don't worry.
Check the white gears for cracks. Clean out any dust or debris that might be jamming them. The drive belt might be slack from use. I always refresh the rubber belt by placing it in fresh boiled water for 5 mins and then drying, this refreshes the elasticity. Otherwise look for a replacement belt of same size. This should sort out the tray closing issue.
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Learning to solder well is definitely recommended, especially as our beloved consoles are getting older and more prone to failure. But be sure to practice on junk circuit boards until competent.
The SRAM upgrade idea isn't simple and may not work. A plug in option would be easier. Maybe the memory addon module could be cloned if someone opened one up and documented the insides.
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I've been looking into the storage on the 3DO. The on board storage is a paltry 32kB. The memory addon pack cited above is 256kB. I have found some 128kB and 512kB 5V SRAM chip datasheets which could probably be swapped in (with a bit of adjusting) and give a boost in memory capacity. I'll test when I get a chance.
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The battery on the 3DO maintains the on-board SRAM chip which holds the limited save space for games. I think an NVRAM add-on could be purchased to increase space. To swap the battery without losing saved games, u would need to supply an external 3V to the chip while u desolder and replace the existing battery.
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Save data is stored on the on board SRAM (not sure of capacity). This is maintained by the battery when powered off. I think there is an external NVRAM add-on block that could be purchased to increased save storage. I saw one on eBay a while back.
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Great work. I'm not sure how hot my FZ-1 gets but the voltage regulator heat plate is big and the area still gets very hot which is why the power caps have a high failure rate. I'll check the temp of my regulators with my k-probe when I get a chance. I would recommend a cap replacement if you want to extend the life of your console. Console5 do quality cap kits (105c rated).
As for RGB mods, there are a couple around. I'm working on a RGB_V2 which should be finished soon.
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I've seen that mod board before. I think it's some sort of SECAM conversion as old French Tv don't accept Composite. Have you got closer pics of the motherboard? What video encoder does it use?
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Yes I saw that typo. Datasheet rates it as 16V CT (centre tapped). It will still be AC voltage until it exits the bridge rectifier. Attach everything as normal.
Good luck with the install. Any questions, feel free to post or PM me.
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Nice find, I didn't see that one. In regards to VA, it depends on the power factor of the psu. Unless the power factor is 1, you will want some VA overhead. Maybe 35-45VA to be safe.
As for output, don't worry too much about getting exactly 15VAC, that was just a DMM reading. The voltage regulators will accept 10-30V.
I measured the transformer in my 3DO, the transformer u linked has the right dimensions. The one I linked is too tall by 1" :-( Just a shame about the VA. 30 VA might be enough.
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Sounds about right. The FZ-1 PSU is integrated into the main PCB and is fairly generic. The only main difference is the transformer (and a common ground connection in NTSC models). Some models have fans and some don't, the connections are still there to add a fan. I have a PAL FZ-1 which has a 230V transformer and outputs ~16VAC. This is fed to a bridge rectifier and corresponding 9V and 5V regulators which can between 10V and 30V. The service manual shows an expected 20VP-P on the transformer output but my DMM only shows 16VAC. This transformer looks like a possible candidate https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS20-2200?qs=1a1zv8L%252Bh%2F2tr%252BOTTBfGVQ==
Just be sure to research as much as possible on power supply electronics, this is mains voltages and things can easily get toasty with wrong application.
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Thanks for the info, I need to find more information on this. I'll have to look over YouTube or something.
Was there ever a way to tell via serial number for example that could tell the differences in video decoders ?
As a general rule of thumb,
Early US FZ-1 - BT9101 (RGB - Yes, 240p - No)
Late US FZ-1 - VP536 (RGB, 240p - Yes)
PAL/ CAN FZ-1 - BT9103 (RGB, 240p - Yes)
JAP - FZ-1 - VP536 (RGB, 240p - Yes)
Early FZ-10 - VP536
Late FZ-10 - ANVIL (RGB - No, 240p - No)
Goldstar GDO-101 - VP536
Goldstar GDO-202 - ANVIL
Goldstar GDO-203 - ANVIL
Sanyo Try - VP536
Not sure about serial numbers, it might be a good idea to get a database of serial numbers going so we can get an idea of what's in what.
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It depends on the video encoder on board. You will have to open it to check. BT9101 cannot be modded for 240p but can still be modded for RGB.
BT9103 and VP536 can be modded for both 240p and RGB.
I am working on an encoder replacement mod for BT9101 3DO so that they can handle 240p but it's not a simple mod.
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You could remove the rf box and cut a hole in the case there using the emf shielding cut outs as a guide. Then use a 8 pin din for RGB out. You would need to wire a switch for the 240p to replace the native switch but it would retain the aesthetics of the RGB mod.
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Thanks for the info. Looks good. I will add that one to the list of 3DO horror games to play.
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Could still be an issue with your laser. Adjusting the resistance pot without the correct tools is only a temporary solution. Chances are that u need a new laser. Also check the heat sink paste and replace if needed.
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What model 3DO do you have which is RGB modded? The RGB mod and 240p mod can be done on a few models of 3DO.
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3DO FZ-1 No Power - suspected PSU
in 3DO Interactive Multiplayer
Posted
Did you check the 2 pins on the transformer output (probe to pin, not connected to board)? If it’s still low voltage it sounds like a problem with the secondary winding inside the transformer. In which case check that other thread for recommendations for replacing the transformer.