Taijigamer

This gets me right in the feels. Knowing what I know now, I would have kept all my games and consoles. I lost a model 1 mega drive with 32X, 2 x Sinclair Spectrum 128k, a ps1 and N64 to the void. I sold it gave away a lot of my mega drive and ps1 games in a move towards emulation and modern gaming. Now prices have rocketed and it's not as easy to re-buy everything. I have started to rebuild my hardware and hard copies again in a bid to reconnect with my childhood (mid life crisis looming). I have a megadrive model 2 with 32X and Mega CD, 3DO and Dreamcast from the pre 2000 era in my collection now. Still need to get a Colecovision, Saturn and Jaguar, and re-buy a Spectrum 128k. I would also mod my consoles for optimum video/audio out and any other enhancements.

YCbCr refers to the digital format. YPbPr refers to the analogue format. As previously said, when talking about video games consoles, YPbPr is used. Digital YCbCr is probably only seen in industry use, ie filming, medical imaging etc. Our medical monitors used for key hole surgery have all the inputs (RGBS, YCrCb, RGBHV, DVI, HDMI) in individual BNC connector format (except DVI and HDMI).

FML. https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/1184 http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/composite-video-vs-composite-sync Please read these before commenting further. If u have an issue with the US consumer TV industry for not supporting RGB, take it up with them. Everything else has already been mentioned adnauseum.

That product is probably good for a cheap option but it only upscales CVBS and S-Video. When we refer to Frameister and OSSC we are looking at upscaling Component video (be it Y,Cb,Cr or RBGS/HV) for best possible picture quality. The OSSC is a good product from my point of view. Half the price of Frameister, open source, well supported and offers many input options (Scart, Component, VGA). It also offers a lot of settings to get the maximum picture quality out of your favourite consoles.

Yurkie and citruspsi3000 mods both take Y, R-Y, B-Y signals directly from the VDP and convert them into RGBS using timing pots, op-amps and discretes. The designs are based on this application note http://spatula-city.org/~im14u2c/vdp-99xx/e3/SPPA004A_9928-29_9118-28_Interface_to_Monitors.pdf There isn't a complete IC based mod available yet. Check out citruspsi3000 RGB mod, comes as a diy kit, easy to install and it's better supported.

The Colecovision TMS9928 VDP naturally outputs a type of Y, B-Y, R-Y (Y, Cr, Cb). This thread https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=960&sid=94cad79b4533d005683a0ce186363544explains a few different ways to transmit that to a TV over Component video. For a ready made solution check out citruspsi3000 RGB mod http://atariage.com/forums/topic/274474-new-coleco-rgb-board/ This should solve your B/W picture problem.

Running a component signal (Y, Cr, Cb or RGBS) into an old CRT is fine as it is expecting 240p or 480i. But running the same signal into a HDTV doesn't work as well because the Tv needs to upscale the 240p/480i feed into 1080p. Most HDTVs don't do this very well. This is why the OSSC and Frameister are a must for retro consoles on HDTV.

Composite will look crap through newer digital TVs. Especially consoles which output 240p natively. U can get RGBS cables for those consoles or, if u live in a country where RGBS isn't common then u can get a OSSC or Frameister (recommended) to turn RGBS into upscaled HDMI for your TV.

Amazing work, Boojakascha. Well done. Finally a solution that will allow people to run Japanese kanji games and arcade games on their own 3DO.

Cords for rf output? Savage.

If it's on dash 7371 then definitely jtag it. Instaboot every time.

You're welcome =) Glad u got it sorted.

Use sheet 6 of the Colecovision service manual to help troubleshoot the issue. http://www.colecovisionzone.com/photos/coleco/colecovision%20tech4.pdf. Check 5V on pin 16. Check that pin 5 & 6 go low when playing game. Check pin 14 for clk signal. It may be a bad sound chip. This thread details a similar issue. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/214438-colecovision-no-sound-problem-help/

U can also RGB mod your CDi for maximum picture quality. This will also solve your B/W picture issue. http://retrorgb.com/cdi.html

I thought the kanji rom needs to assigned to 'Font ROM' and then a known bios rom used for Bios, in phoenix. Maybe the same for SAOT. Phoenix may treat anything from ROM2 as the 'FONT ROM'.

If I remember correctly, pheonix emulator runs the Kanji rom alongside the bios. Maybe 3doplay isn't setup to use the kanji bios. Maybe try running it in Phoenix.

Check the power connector at the back of the console, the plastic housing will tell u what revision it is (check online). A jasper psu won't connect to a Falcon board because of the connector housing. If u are having to throw so much cooling at it then there is something more going on. What heatsink paste did u use, are the heat sinks making good contact? Are the x-clamps still in situ?

If you live in the UK and want someone to have a look at it, I would be happy to do so.

Did you consider getting those systems RGB modded? NTSC is a preferred format anyway, less timing issues with gameplay.

Cool, looks like you already have all the Bios that I have. If I come across any more, I'll send them your way.

Wow that is dedicated. That's a cool project. I've PM'd you some info that may be of use. If I have any more info I will post in your hardware thread so as not to digress this thread. Thank you for the really useful information. It would be interesting to see inside the console to see how the switch connects to the ROM chips. Is CE lifted or does it use the connector pads in between the 2 chips?

Panasonic_FZ-1(Service_Manual).pdf That's cool that you have taken on the task of improving 4DO. I can't help with the bus protocol but here is the FZ-1 service manual (PAL) which may help with the hardware side. I've also got a few retail bios if that's useful (FZ1, FZ10, ANVIL, Kanji, GDO, Sanyo).

Glad you were successful. How did u find the pinout of the chip? I can't find a datasheet online. Which chips did u find as direct swap? Interestingly, the FZ-10 has a 6 pin header near the bios rom which may allow ICSP programming of the bios or Rom2 at factory. The FZ-1 has some solder points as well which seem to connect to the ROM1 or ROM2. If you are successful then it will be possible to flash any rom we want to the 3DO. There is a 3DO testing station which has a switch on the back for switching between encrypted and decrypted code. I haven't been inside one to see but I would guess it has 2 Roms piggybacked with a switch.

How were u trying to read the ROM chip? I tried to find the datasheet on the ROM chips but couldn't find anything. I found a Kanji rom online which I use with phoenix emulator. I'm assuming its the same SOP44 compatible rom. rom2.rom

Do you have access to an O-scope? Maybe it's a problem with the 7805 regulator or a bad RAM chip.