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Everything posted by Taijigamer

  1. I was wondering about Saturn ODE, is the Rhea any good? How expensive is it? Lasers for the Panasonic 3DO are hard to find as the OEM SF92.5 have the incorrect pinout. U can harvest lasers from a cr-563 but they will be old as well. It's best to check the stock laser calibration with an oscilloscope or at least a multimeter for the RF signal. Here's the service manual for FZ-10 https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/func-download/30230/chk,7f07cedeaa322f44da4a16a0e35516ae/no_html,1/the signal should be around 450 mV.
  2. 32X games don't have a Japanese region lock out as far as I know. I was referring to any Japanese Genesis games u might want to play. If u purchase a PAL 32X, convert to NTSE. If you purchase a JAP 32X then no modding is required as it is already NTSE. A Japanese region switch is only needed on your Genesis if u want to play certain Japanese Genesis games (google which ones, not all are region locked).
  3. Sounds like your cable has poor/ no shielding or not properly grounded which is why it improves when u touch it (grounding the cable through you). The buzzing is because interference from the Composite line is picked up by the audio lines as a buzz. The dim picture is because your cable may not have the necessary caps and resistors inside. Properly shielded audio lines solves this. Invest in a professional cable like retrogamingcables or HD retrovision.
  4. The video encoders on the 32x and Genesis/ MD have to be set to the same region, NTSE or PAL, for them to work. A Japanese 32X and US Genesis should be compatible and vice versa because both are set to NTSE. The only issue will be if u want to play certain Japanese games which require your Genesis to be in Japanese region mode, this is separate from what 32X u have. As 32X are so costly in UK, I imported a US 32x and simply converted it to PAL for use with my PAL MD. the only issue is B/W picture over Composite as the oscillator is still calibrated for NTSE. But this isn't an issue as I use RGB. U can also install region switches in your Genesis and 32x so u can switch between PAL, NTSE and Japanese region at leisure. Regarding RGB and Component (Y,Pr,Pb) on the Genesis. Both are the same as the Genesis outputs 240p. Component is better at higher resolutions 480p+ as RGB taps out at 480i. Basically choose the cable that suites your TV input.
  5. Here is the price list for the usb host for 3DO. http://3do-renovation.ru/How_to_buy.htm Price is for usb host only, not installation. The Goldstar is $145 so not too bad. The FZ-1 is $245 :-( Mnemo is the only person who has so far developed a usb host for 3DO. He has done extensive research into the 3DO ARM assembly so it's not an easy task to replicate. The FZ-1, Sanyo and Goldstar are simple plug and play (no soldering required) but the FZ-10 requires some soldering. Not sure how hard it would be as I haven't got the install docs. The usb host also has some sort of NVRAM save option so you can probably manage your save games through it as well.
  6. Yeah, sometimes it's easier to just replace it. U should be able to find an FZ-10 for a good price if u keep hunting. Sometimes it's easier to import one from Japan. If u are looking to sell your broken FZ-1, let me know. I'm on the look out for FZ-1 with BT9101 encoder for further research :-)
  7. I don't think it's a design flaw on the casing. My PAL 3DO FZ-1 doesn't even have a fan, although there are solder points for one, and it doesn't suffer overheating (unlike the Xbox 360 where the problem was partly to do with the case design). The problem is your psu. It could be the transformer, voltage regulators or caps. As a result, your cd drive isn't getting the correct voltages and is giving read errors. Your laser might also be failing. Do get a true picture, u would need an oscilloscope to check the psu and laser.
  8. The 3-4 switch relates to channel select on the RF modulator. The 240p switch seems to only be on certain Japanese models. It all depends on video encoder. The early US and Japanese FZ-1 models have the BT9101 encoder which doesn't support 240p (as far as we know). PAL and Canadian FZ-1 have the BT9103 encoder which can be modded for 240p but doesn't come with a switch pre installed. Late Japanese FZ-1 (prior to FZ-10 launch) have the VP536 encoder which also can support 240p. Some have a switch pre built, some don't. Best thing to do is open up your 3DO and see which encoder u have.
  9. That's interesting. From what I've seen the later Japanese FZ-1 have VP536 encoders which can be switched for 480i/ 240p but why have some with a case switch and some without, unless this was a later edition of FZ-1. It would be good to see which encoder the FZ-1 with case switch had.
  10. Thanks for sharing. Would you be able to open up the 3DO and take pictures of the inside. It would be interesting to see which encoder it uses and how the switch is wired to the board. Thanks for the Frameister settings. 240p is the prefered video mode for retro consoles. It is a sharper image with no flicker. It can then be line doubled to 480p or line tripled to 720p for maximum quality.
  11. As far as I know, Mnemo is the only producer of usb ODE for 3DO at the moment. http://3do-renovation.ru/index.htmIt's in Russian and English, the price tag is a bit high but probably worth it. Edit: Montrealer beat me to it :-)
  12. The problem with the Hsync delay is that it varies from setup to setup. Some are worse than others. This may be why Otaku's mod had the adjustable potentiometer. The problem with potentiometers is they are noisy and better used for test and design rather than final build. Using a fixed solution may not suit all setups but an average setting could be used to suit most setups. Ive been looking for an IC that allows Hsync adjustment but I can't seem to find one. Would a Pic be able to adjust sync signals?
  13. No worries. Thank you again for the info on the CDi 220. Here is a close up of the BT9106, 07 & 08 (they all share the same pinout but slightly different requirements). As you can see it is different to the BT856 that was originally used for reference, which is why nobody had any luck getting RGB on their BT9106 CDi. I tried to install a BT9107 on my 3DO but the BT9103 follows more closely to the BT856 so I was unsuccessful. I misquoted the encoder pinout in my message, for BT9106/7, pin 14 selects RGB on/off. Pin 13 should be left as it is. Pin 10 is for I2C communication (on BT9106/7) and should be left as is. Using Hsync (Pin 45) and Vsync (Pin 46) is better than stripping Csync from CVBS as the time delay can be managed. This thread is focusing on correcting the possible Hsync shift using extra circuitry. In my 3DO mod https://assemblergames.com/threads/3do-rgb-mod-3do-adventures-part-3.67513/I used a LM1881 sync stripper to get Csync from Luma. As for video modes, unfortunately the CDi service manual doesn't detail which pins if any on the BT9106/7 correspond to PAL, Interlace etc. In summary to your questions - for people with a CDi with the BT9106/7/8 encoders, just lift and tie pin 14 high which will enable RGB, and obtain sync from either Pin 45/46 or CVBS (Pin 2). No further modding required. - for people looking to mod their 3DO, either use the mod detailed in this thread, my mod on assemblergames or use the BT856 encoder as we have access to the full datasheet. Hope that helps. Any questions please feel free to PM me.
  14. Hi @bbuchholtz, welcome to the party. That's really cool that u are looking into swapping encoders on the CDi. I would be really interested in what the CDi service manual says about the BT9106 as I have hit a snag with the BT9107 on the 3DO. I desoldered the BT9103 and replaced with a BT9107 but I get no output. I spoke to superg on assembler games who says he found the pin behaviour between the BT9106 and BT9107 similar except for the lack of RGB on the BT9106. There is no datasheet for the BT9107 so I am working from the BT856 datasheet http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/96758/ETC/BT856/+7W759UCRC/1wuzYz+/datasheet.pdfwhich states that Vref can be provided by the encoder or externally. I don't think u will need an amplifier with this chip.
  15. Sounds like maybe the psu is overheating. If it's a FZ-1, does the metal heat sink on the voltage regulators get excessively hot? Overheating components on the psu could lead to erratic voltages which would explain the faulty cd-rom behaviour. Have u had the console recapped? Do any of the caps on the psu look bulged or leaky? The reason behind RROD in xbox360 was a combination of poor design, BGA and lead free solder. As all the IC on the 3DO are surface mount, u won't have to worry about RROD situations :-)
  16. As I suggested previously, for best results try RGB mod with OSSC. I've finished testing my new RGB design which works on all 3DO revisions (except FZ-10 with Anvil encoder) check it out here https://assemblergames.com/threads/3do-rgb-mod-3do-adventures-part-3.67513/#post-962055 The OSSC is about £150 ready made and will output 480p or 720p over HDMI.
  17. I love these stories from the Golden Age of console games. I liked the dark early fmv themes of mid 90's games like Gex. Have u seen Burger Becky's YouTube blog of her involvement with porting Doom to 3DO really interesting watch.
  18. I would say they are both just as easy/hard to mod as each other. Depends on the mod u are trying to do.
  19. Glad you got it sorted. That's interesting that you got better results burning the discs at the imgburn recommended speed. From what I've seen the 3DO laser pickup is among the most temperamental. Here is a comparison of RF signals from CD lasers using an oscilloscope. It's taken from this page http://www.activewin.com/reviews/hardware/burners/yamaha/crw70/technology.shtml which has some more info on jitter. It's mainly about burner quality but the principal is essentially the same. The quality of the burner, the media and the laser pickup will have an effect on the amount on jitter present in the signal. The more jitter, the harder it is for the CD-rom to maintain a stable read. All CD-rom have error correction but with a high level of jitter, it's more likely the CD-rom will be unable to recover from a bad read and the console will throw off dirty disc errors. By minimising the jitter as much as possible, we can enjoy stress free gaming.
  20. Write speed should have no influence on the readability of the disc. The info is still stored in the same place. The 3 factors are the quality of the burner, the quality of the disc and the quality of the optical pickup. The 3DO pickup is notoriously picky about which brand media it will read. Always use best quality media like Taiyo Yuden. Also make sure the laser is cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Your laser may be getting weaker but start with the first 2 suggestions. If it still has trouble reading discs the the laser will need adjusting or replacing. Both are not straight forward. Replacement lasers are practically non existent and similar lasers require a bit of modding. Adjusting the laser power requires an oscilloscope.
  21. That's cool that u are making progress on this. I may have been off with my original statement of 56us. I was looking at this page http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?25988-RGB-LEFT-RIGHT-sift-issues-theory-and-fixes And mistook 8pixel for 8us. So the shift needs to be more like 62us. My 3DO is out of action at the moment as I tried to swap the encoder for a BT9107 but it didn't work :-( I think if I revisit my RGB mod design, I would make it similar to yours with horizontal correction and TTL selection.
  22. All 3DO play burned backups. The copyright protection was never added in the design, same as Sega CD, probably because nobody owned personal CD burners in 1993. The problem is probably the memorex cd-r. 3DO were always picky about the mods they read. U need to get some Taiyo yuden or equivalent quality cd-r. Also the laser could be getting weaker. And yes, slow load times were due to the 1x cd-rom.
  23. It looks like the VP536 and BT9103 just get CLK and 24bit RGB from the mobo/ CLIO, the rest of the timing is managed by the encoder. Both encoders receive 2 clks and create either 240p or 480i (288p or 576i for PAL) depending on the progressive pin state. The only way to get RGB on these consoles is to insert a new RGB capable encoder and feed the necessary signals to it. The problem with horizontal shift is the Hsync is being delayed relative to the processed RGB. the pipeline delay within the encoders is minimal but in the Sync stripper or XOR chip it is more so the 2 parts of the signal are out of time. Maybe just using Luma as sync would eliminate the delay but it is undesirable. As we can't speed up the Hsync, we need to delay it by a complete cycle (64us). As the horizontal shift is about 8us delayed, we need to delay by about a further 56us. With the BT encoders, there are 2 further possible solutions. The BT9101 outputs CSYNC natively so this could be used as is with a 480 Ohm resistor to attenuate the TTL signal. The BT9103 has the same pinout as the BT9107 which is RGB capable so these could be swapped out on the mobo giving native RGB. I still need to test this one.
  24. Here's some info on termination types https://www.diodes.com/assets/App-Note-Files/AB023.pdf And from your favourite company http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snla034b/snla034b.pdf Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Older consoles such as Sega MD, Ps2 and possibly 3DO use series termination, while Sega DC uses parallel termination. Yes I was thinking a specific 'U' or 'L' shaped QSB with a 28 pin ffc connector for each encoder, connected to a generic main board. 24 bit RGB, CLK, SYNC, 5V and GND could be acquired directly from the native encoder, or power separately, and fed to the main ADV7125 board via ribbon cable. Good luck with your new revision.
  25. Good idea. I was starting to lean towards quick solder options with my design as well. Either with pin headers or QSBs. A different design would be needed for each encoder but it would make installation a lot easier. This is not possible with the BT9101 encoder as it is a fine pitch 160 pin QFP. I made a mistake with my design by including a parrellel termination resistor AND a series termination resistor. Only one is needed, my design was effectively triple terminating the signals, oops. Analogue Devices use parrelel terminating resistors in their designs while the online community advocate series resistors. It is advisable to place the 470ohm resistor close to the console end as possible but as you said, the AC coupling caps (220u - 1000u) can go either end on the line. This page has some good info on reducing parasitic capacitance in video signal lines https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=55948
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