Taijigamer
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Posts posted by Taijigamer
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Check the power connector at the back of the console, the plastic housing will tell u what revision it is (check online). A jasper psu won't connect to a Falcon board because of the connector housing. If u are having to throw so much cooling at it then there is something more going on. What heatsink paste did u use, are the heat sinks making good contact? Are the x-clamps still in situ?
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If you live in the UK and want someone to have a look at it, I would be happy to do so.
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Did you consider getting those systems RGB modded? NTSC is a preferred format anyway, less timing issues with gameplay.
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Cool, looks like you already have all the Bios that I have. If I come across any more, I'll send them your way.
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I found the identity of some pins (Vcc, Gnd, NC) by looking at the board, and tried all ICs with that pattern brute force. None are direct swap, as the identities which allowed me flawless reading all assumed 3.3 V while the real chip is run at 5 V.
I have to take a look for a header^^
On the decryption: That's why I read the chip. I remove the code part that prevents encrypted data to be read by the console. I think my 44SOP PCB would have been the next step, made for arcades. As with the Japanese PCBs you had to decide for Kanji OR Arcade Bios, while the 44 SOP PCB has the 32 SOP solder pads free for future add ons.
Wow that is dedicated. That's a cool project. I've PM'd you some info that may be of use. If I have any more info I will post in your hardware thread so as not to digress this thread.
I can't find the photo right now but the testing system I saw had the retail bios in one spot and the testing bios in the normally empty / Kanji spot. The switch enabled one at a time.
Thank you for the really useful information. It would be interesting to see inside the console to see how the switch connects to the ROM chips. Is CE lifted or does it use the connector pads in between the 2 chips?
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Panasonic_FZ-1(Service_Manual).pdf
That's cool that you have taken on the task of improving 4DO. I can't help with the bus protocol but here is the FZ-1 service manual (PAL) which may help with the hardware side. I've also got a few retail bios if that's useful (FZ1, FZ10, ANVIL, Kanji, GDO, Sanyo).
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Glad you were successful. How did u find the pinout of the chip? I can't find a datasheet online. Which chips did u find as direct swap?
Interestingly, the FZ-10 has a 6 pin header near the bios rom which may allow ICSP programming of the bios or Rom2 at factory. The FZ-1 has some solder points as well which seem to connect to the ROM1 or ROM2.
If you are successful then it will be possible to flash any rom we want to the 3DO. There is a 3DO testing station which has a switch on the back for switching between encrypted and decrypted code. I haven't been inside one to see but I would guess it has 2 Roms piggybacked with a switch.
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Hey you 3DO enthusiasts. Has anybody of you read the 3DO FZ-1 SOP44 Bios? That's the one with the Kanji included. I tried today, but a leg broke off :-(
How were u trying to read the ROM chip? I tried to find the datasheet on the ROM chips but couldn't find anything. I found a Kanji rom online which I use with phoenix emulator. I'm assuming its the same SOP44 compatible rom. rom2.rom
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Do you have access to an O-scope? Maybe it's a problem with the 7805 regulator or a bad RAM chip.
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The Genesis was my first console and I've always considered myself a sega man before switching to psx in the late nineties. There is a certain novelty to the 32x sega cd combo. It was the first 32 bit cd based system to properly handle 3D graphics. The Panasonic 3DO released in 1993 but didn't have true 3D graphics ability.
The 32x has the same cpu as the Saturn but considerably less ram.
There are a few games (6 I think) that were specifically developed for the 32x sega cd combo. It will definitely make a great addition to your retro collection and still a lot cheaper than a wondermega or x'eye.
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That's interesting. That suggests a sync issue in the video signal which might explain why your Tv won't detect picture, or only show it randomly. I would try and replace the cap on the video line. It's a 220uf cap near the cxa-1145 chip. The schematics show it as C32 but yours might be slightly different.
The resistance test doesn't show whether a cap has gone bad. U need an ESR tester which can be expensive. I just troubleshoot down to the likely cap and replace it.
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Sounds like u have eliminated everything else. It might point towards a malfunctioning video DAC. I would eliminate caps first. A bad cap doesn't always look like a bad cap. What model Genesis 1 do u have. There should be a decoupling cap for the CXA1145, maybe try replacing that first.
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A google search turned up this 3 output LDO regulator which may solve your 1.8V, 2.5V, 3.3V issues. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2254556.pdf
The official documentation for 3DO states the graphics resolution as 320x240 which is then output at 480i by the native encoder. The CH7025 outputs 480i SD and 480p ED etc. It will be interesting to see how the encoder handles the resolution.
Programming of the chip seems to be done over I2C serial programming. I found some files here http://en.pudn.com/Download/item/id/2626071.htmlWhich may help with programming the chip.
HDMI? Now that sounds interesting. Maybe look at how OSSC works or speak to @citrus3000psi on his work.
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I think my wife has a fix for all my electronics too :-/
Maybe try this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173250785112
Not sure how reliable they are.
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Hey man, welcome back. Hope the surgery went ok.
When I measured H, V, CLK, D23:0, I had values of 1.4V, 1.4V, 2.4V and 20mV respectively. These were DMM values but the true oscilloscope values shouldn't be far off.
H and V are outputs on the original encoders which feed back to the CLIO so using them as inputs may be out of sync with the D23:0 info, but they can be set as outputs on the CH7025. Csync can be set to either XOR, AND, OR. At least the horizontsl shift will be sorted.
Looking at the output standards it looks like the CH7025 doesn't output 240p. It outputs 480i but also 480p, 720p etc, I wonder if it can upscale the 3DO D23:0 information?
I'm the same when prototyping, include everything then downsize. U could probably remove a lot of the filter discretes and just use a 75 Ohm termination resistor and 220u cap on the RGB lines. No need for H, V out, just Csync. The challenge will be cleverly designing the psu section due to space. Maybe an IC devoted to 1.8V, 2.5V and 3.3V generation.
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I may be able to help. PM sent.
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Could be a failing laser or faulty capacitors. Both are common problems for the 3DO at this age.
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The horizontal shift fixer by Otakus-store is based on Tim's design which crayon_king looked at earlier in this thread. It is a solution but does have its own issues. The IC mentioned above might be promising as it processes RGB and fixes the sync shift.
The BT9101 is just as moddable for RGB as the BT9103 and VP536. U can use any 3 channel 24bit RGB digital analogue converter or Otakus-store's mod despite them stating it is only or VP536. Check my thread on the different encoders https://assemblergames.com/threads/240p-output-on-3do-with-bt9103-encoder.66295/or on a different mod for RGB https://assemblergames.com/threads/3do-rgb-mod-3do-adventures-part-3.67513/#post-955780 here. If u want install instructions for your BT9101 feel free to PM me.
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I was wondering about Saturn ODE, is the Rhea any good? How expensive is it?
Lasers for the Panasonic 3DO are hard to find as the OEM SF92.5 have the incorrect pinout. U can harvest lasers from a cr-563 but they will be old as well. It's best to check the stock laser calibration with an oscilloscope or at least a multimeter for the RF signal. Here's the service manual for FZ-10 https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/func-download/30230/chk,7f07cedeaa322f44da4a16a0e35516ae/no_html,1/the signal should be around 450 mV.
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32X games don't have a Japanese region lock out as far as I know. I was referring to any Japanese Genesis games u might want to play.
If u purchase a PAL 32X, convert to NTSE. If you purchase a JAP 32X then no modding is required as it is already NTSE. A Japanese region switch is only needed on your Genesis if u want to play certain Japanese Genesis games (google which ones, not all are region locked).
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Sounds like your cable has poor/ no shielding or not properly grounded which is why it improves when u touch it (grounding the cable through you). The buzzing is because interference from the Composite line is picked up by the audio lines as a buzz. The dim picture is because your cable may not have the necessary caps and resistors inside. Properly shielded audio lines solves this. Invest in a professional cable like retrogamingcables or HD retrovision.
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The video encoders on the 32x and Genesis/ MD have to be set to the same region, NTSE or PAL, for them to work. A Japanese 32X and US Genesis should be compatible and vice versa because both are set to NTSE. The only issue will be if u want to play certain Japanese games which require your Genesis to be in Japanese region mode, this is separate from what 32X u have.
As 32X are so costly in UK, I imported a US 32x and simply converted it to PAL for use with my PAL MD. the only issue is B/W picture over Composite as the oscillator is still calibrated for NTSE. But this isn't an issue as I use RGB.
U can also install region switches in your Genesis and 32x so u can switch between PAL, NTSE and Japanese region at leisure.
Regarding RGB and Component (Y,Pr,Pb) on the Genesis. Both are the same as the Genesis outputs 240p. Component is better at higher resolutions 480p+ as RGB taps out at 480i. Basically choose the cable that suites your TV input.
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Here is the price list for the usb host for 3DO.
http://3do-renovation.ru/How_to_buy.htm
Price is for usb host only, not installation. The Goldstar is $145 so not too bad. The FZ-1 is $245 :-(
Mnemo is the only person who has so far developed a usb host for 3DO. He has done extensive research into the 3DO ARM assembly so it's not an easy task to replicate.
The FZ-1, Sanyo and Goldstar are simple plug and play (no soldering required) but the FZ-10 requires some soldering. Not sure how hard it would be as I haven't got the install docs.
The usb host also has some sort of NVRAM save option so you can probably manage your save games through it as well.
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Yeah, sometimes it's easier to just replace it. U should be able to find an FZ-10 for a good price if u keep hunting. Sometimes it's easier to import one from Japan. If u are looking to sell your broken FZ-1, let me know. I'm on the look out for FZ-1 with BT9101 encoder for further research :-)
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3DO FZ-1 SOP48 Bios
in Hardware
Posted
If I remember correctly, pheonix emulator runs the Kanji rom alongside the bios. Maybe 3doplay isn't setup to use the kanji bios. Maybe try running it in Phoenix.