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Lavalamp

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Posts posted by Lavalamp

  1. Posted

    7800Basic nub here.

     

    I'm enjoying 7800Basic, but there are some quirks I'm not sure about, I often get a BIN size errors that seem to be caused by syntax or logic errors, but it gives me no clue to where the issue is (line number etc). Is this standard behavior? Because its very time consuming to find these sometimes.

     

    My second issue is when I complete my homebrew I would like to produce a cartridge for it, whats the best way to go about this? I've have read cannibalising a real 7800 cartridge is an option, but cant I print a PCB and use a 3D printer to print the case?

  8. Posted

    Th

     

    Not to berate Lavalamp, but as a note/warning/reminder to folks who later begin a build, it’s probably worth telling everyone who starts to at least scan through the (many!) pages of the entire thread - at this point, 4+ months since people began building, there’s a good shot someone has already had the same assembly issue or made a mistake they might avoid.

    E.g., I installed my power LED’s backwards waaaaay back in January (and many pages earlier!) and all this was covered there. I hate for Michael to feel like he has to repeat these lessons every time one of us has made a mistake.

     

     

    The thing is I did read your account and was determined to not make the same mistake, but I guess my dyslexia kicked in when it came to fitting them :( I have to wait for replacement LED's now...

    • Like 1

  9. Posted

     

    It is unfortunate that the square pad which is being used to represent positive for the electrolytic capacitors , turns out to be the negative lead instead for the LEDs. But the square pad usage is correct, since it denotes the cathode connection of the LED, and is also the same usage for the 1N914 diodes on the board as well. However most people would usually not know the difference and instead follow the board's silk screen which does correctly and quite clearly show the proper orientation of the LED. Always best to go by the silkscreen representation when assembling PCBs.

     

    post-42561-0-03877900-1516243920.png

     

    So if you look around the net, you'll see that square pad usage is always for the cathode on diodes and LEDs, + on a capacitor, and to designate pin one on a connector, header, or a SIP resistor network. I have followed this convention. Sorry if that caused any confusion.

     

    Reference

     

    Edit: BTW any place else that an LED connection is depicted to a header, the pin 1 marking of the header takes precedence, and in no way confers polarity.

     

     

    Thanks for that! Every day is a school day! :)

    • Like 2

  10. Posted

     

    The LED might be backwards. If you check the power bus with a volt meter do you see 5 VDC when you press the power switch? This can be checked on one of the 14 pin HCT series chips (pin 7 = GND, pin 14 = 5 VDC). You also need to have the 555 timer installed to be able to switch on the power.

     

    Also check out this link: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/272817-1088xel-atari-itx-motherboard-diy-builders-thread/page-11?do=findComment&comment=3938060

     

    Hang on, so the square pads for LEDs are negative,but elsewhere on the board its positive?

  12. Posted · Edited by Lavalamp

    No most USB adapters are really more of a charger, than meant to act as a standalone PSU, meaning that they depend upon the battery to smooth things out.

     

    What MacRorie is referring to was associated with the early beta version of the 1088XEL where there were problems with some standalone PSUs, but that got remedied by improving the DC filtering on board, so most any 2 Amp or greater supply with a center positive and the correct size plug should work fine now.

     

    Thanks I have identified a local power adapter https://www.jaycar.co.nz/27w-3-12vdc-switchmode-plugpack-with-usb-outlet/p/MP3316

  16. Posted

    Update: Added rear panel used Michael's rear panel as the cut out, added DVI and two additional DB9s as optional pop-outs at the rear, still sticking with the cartridge at the top aligned directly with the socket at this stage, tweaked the design slightly to accommodate the cartridge slot.

     

     

    attachicon.gif1088XEL_Front.PNG

     

    attachicon.gif1088XEL_Back.PNG

     

     

    For those that were following my case just an update that I 3d Printed a draft of the back panel to ensure the ports aligned and that the pop out panels worked.... and it did, perfectly!

     

     

    post-61762-0-48341400-1519442243_thumb.jpg

     

    The USB connector was 100% that was the big test, the pop outs worked as designed, and I placed my RGB connector from the Sophia in one of the spare DB9 pop-outs, holes aligned too! Im adding three DB9s now in case someone wants 4 joystick ports and the Sophia running.

     

    Just waiting on some new printer parts to trial a print of the whole case.

    • Like 4

  17. Posted

     

     

    Probably be best to use pin 2 which is the Left Channel output (normal MONO signal on stock A8 with only one Pokey chip). Keep in mind that the audio output signals connected to this header are always active, so plugging into the 3.5 mm stereo jack will not disable the connection as it does for the DIN-13. Most likely not a problem, but I figured I'd point that out in case it is.

     

    attachicon.gifAUDIO_AUX.png

     

     

    Thanks awesome.

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    Hi, can someone confirm I have crimped my Sophia cable correctly, I'm assuming pin one is audio to the RGB connector? Pin 10 is not connected?

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_1239.JPG

     

    Still waiting on a back order from Digi key for 3 final components...

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_1241.JPG

     

     

    Looking at this image below it looks like I nailed it, where would the best spot be to get the audio for the RGB cable that came with the Sophia? A Pin from the Aux Audio? If so which Pin? Or somewhere closer to the RGB header? Thanks Chaps.

     

    post-61762-0-59758100-1518377491.png

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

     

     

    The steps I've bolded, #'s 2 - 4, I did all in one step. I inserted the male headers into the U1IMB at both ends pointing up, sitting on my desk. I fitted the three female header pieces on top of the exposed U1MB pins. I used a few small pieces of 3M brand reusable putty (what Jon refers to in his videos as "Blue Tack") to hold the headers in place in the U1MB. Then I rotated the entire thing around to slide the pins of the male headers through the 1088XEL. Then, and only then, I tacked two opposing pins on either side of the main U1MB headers into place. I verified everything was as trued-up and perpendicular as possible, then I soldered all the remaining U1MB pins.

     

    I then rotated the entire 1088XEL upside down using the U1MB's three fully-soldered header blocks to ensure alignment of the female headers before soldering those pins. Again, I soldered two pins each on the bigger ones to verify everything lined up as close to perfectly true as possible, then finished up the rest of the pins.

     

    good old Blutack, great suggestion!

  21. Posted · Edited by Lavalamp

    Regarding the U1MB Installation

     

    I saw Jazzcat's removal of the horizontal pins for the U1MB , but I would like to be 100% about the steps, I assume its:

     

    1. Remove the horizontal pins on the U1MB
    2. Soldering male pins to the U1MB
    3. Fitting the headers on to these before fitting the assembly into place (to ensure correct position)
    4. Soldering the headers
    5. Don't upgrade U1MB to 1088XEL Firmware until all proved working. (URL to the latest version of this?)

    Only waiting on the UAV and three components now to complete my build. Bought a 3D printer to prototype my case.

     

    Thanks chaps!

  24. Posted

    LavaLamp you could also place the CF up front, maybe centered above the Joystick Ports, or even in-between, which would make access very easy and unobstructed (no having to reach around back and fumble for the slot). I have some panels scheduled to show up tomorrow that have the new dual CF cut-outs. If that pans out, I'll post some updated dimensions for both the single and the dual CF card versions which you might find handy for doing your case planning as well.

     

     

    Looks like it has eyes and a mouth now.... :/

     

     

    post-61762-0-68954200-1516244641_thumb.png

    • Like 2

  25. Posted

    LavaLamp you could also place the CF up front, maybe centered above the Joystick Ports, or even in-between, which would make access very easy and unobstructed (no having to reach around back and fumble for the slot). I have some panels scheduled to show up tomorrow that have the new dual CF cut-outs. If that pans out, I'll post some updated dimensions for both the single and the dual CF card versions which you might find handy for doing your case planning as well.

     

    O for Awesome Ok. ... thats a NZ reference BTW one of our shining moments on TV ;)

    • Like 1
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