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Posts posted by Lavalamp
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I see you already discovered the 5x5 pin RGB-THRU header which is shown connected to the Sophia RGB board here. And yes that routes the RGB signals over to the DIN-13 connector. This works with the standard Sophia RGB board, and just requires an IDC10 connector crimped onto Sophia's video out cable.
Fantastic news thanks!
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So the incorrectly specified 0.1uf capacitor has had far reaching consequences. And as I discovered today it's infected two other projects, the XEL-CF-][ and the JOY2PIC-STIK. So let me tell you the story on how all of this came to be...
Bummer wished I had seen this in time, mine are already on and wonky, apart from aesthetics I assume this wont cause a problem?
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You can also route the RGB through the 13pin DIN connector (ST Monitor)
This is interesting, how best to approach this? Would I pass the ribbon underneath the board and solder the connections to the plugs pins on the underside of the board?
Oh scratch that I see there's a RGB header next to the GITA, this goes to the RGB port? There's a new Sofia to accommodate this?
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I hope your 1088XEL journey is a fun and enjoyable one.
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EDIT: I guess two people answering is better than one

Thanks so much! Pleased to see I do have a handle on this project. yes I'm thoroughly enjoying it and thankyou for producing it, fingers cross I get a booting Machine at the end of it lol
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Apple: We might see some backlash for making people’s phones run slower.
Intel: Hold my beer…
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I sent Simius a PM yesterday with a suggestion that Sophia RGB boards destined for the 1088XEL should come with two connectors on the ribbon cable for the RGB output as shown below.
This way the user has a choice. And especially in cases where something like a 1084D or a SC1435 is to be used, it gives you a much easier interface to come straight out of the DB9.
Hi,
I'm building a 1088XEL at the moment, and really enjoying it
wife now thinks I'm a super nerd
just need some clarification on my understanding of things...- The 1088XEL as built uses the ST RGB connector So I can use my ST's RGB /SCART cable?
- The UAV board is used only for composite and SVIDEO output.
- Sofia can be an option if you wanted to add a RGB out as a DB9 (I have one in my A8 at the moment)
- CF is optional for internal storage device, you can still boot via SIO (I have the SIO2SD, 1050 etc)
- Ultimate 1MB is required for the 1088XEL to work.
- I need to source or crimp my own Joystick cables ( length depending on the case I choose to use)
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The SIO port is probably big enough and the pins far enough apart to desolder successfully. If the chips on the donor are socketed, of course they can be reused. I don't know if I'd suggest desoldering the cartridge connector though (I'm with Mac on this). If the donor chips are soldered rather than socketed, whether you can reuse them depends entirely on how well you can remove them from their existing home without damaging them. It's not something I'd recommend for all 5 of the main 40-pin ICs on an Atari (6502C, PIA, POKEY, ANTIC and GTIA). That's a lot of pins of to remove cleanly without either damaging a chip leg or inadvertently overheating one of the chips and killing it. If you have a lot of experience I'm sure it CAN be done but it seems an unnecessary risk to me.
Thanks, ill definitely heed this advice.
I know some are socketed, like the Antic, but some chips had been poached by the prior owner including the Sally and I think the Pokey from memory, I already used the GITA to repair my current XL , on a side note these missing IC's weren't detailed on the eBay sale
Ill go with Mikes kit I think. 
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Sockets are cheap and readily available online. Seriously, don't try to salvage any from any existing system! You're asking for trouble if you try to desolder something that ungainly and flimsy.
Sorry I meant SIO specifically. Would it not be advisable to use the cartridge connector? Or extract the PIA IC? Or the Pokeys?
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That is certainly your decision. If I might suggest, I would save up to buy the kit all at once as you will end up spending quite a bit more trying to buy the parts from multiple vendors. You will end up spending *quite* a bit more not to mention the time involved. I mean I am buying for multiple units at a time and it still involves a lot of leg work and packages and checking and double-checking and waiting.
However, at the end of the day, it is always your decision. Feel free to PM me with what ever you wish to purchase.
Thanks for the advice, I'll revisit in the new year, I have ordered the JOY2PIC and will start on this. I also need to take stock of the custom Atari chips and sockets I can use from a donor which should save me some money. Cheers!
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Hi, I would be keen on a 2A but I would need to confirm this would be for a PAL build, and the PSU listed in the BOM states 90v-264v which I have not seen before, this would be OK on our 250v 50Hz in NZ?. Cheers.
On reflection I wont go for the bundle and I will buy the PCB and just buy the parts as I can afford for them, I also need to build the JOY2PIC first.
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Hi, I would be keen on a 2A but I would need to confirm this would be for a PAL build, and the PSU listed in the BOM states 90v-264v which I have not seen before, this would be OK on our 250v 50Hz in NZ?. Cheers.
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Hi!
You can look also to my FastBasic https://github.com/dmsc/fastbasic/blob/master/README.md, this is a complete editor+compiler (to an optimized byte-code) fast enough to just compile after each edit. You can download the ATR from https://github.com/dmsc/fastbasic/releases/download/v1/fastbasic-v1.atr
The IDE can also compile to disk, writing a standard atari executable.
Wow, will certainly check this out. Can I open Atari or Turbo Basic in it?
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Thanks guys that confirms what I deduced. On a side quest I was looking at compilers for Atari BASIC or Turbo Basic XL, I came across a forum stating there was a compiler (TurboBasicXL.arc) that forms a stand alone .EXE for Turbo Basic, as supposed to using the .OBJ runtime.
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I had a question from a work colleague that I couldn't answer, he wanted to know how the BASIC interpreter compiles and executes the code, ie is it just in time or compiles it then executes. As theres no perceivable delay on RUN, I wasnt sure, i thought it tokenized it as you entered each line. Given memory and CPU limitations compiling separate code on RUN seemed wrong, but i have no idea.
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I have to transfer a disk to an ATR - should be done by the weekend...
Hi, Did you manage to get round to this for me?

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Thanks that would be well received, I did find Parrot software that also shipped with a basic player, it states it will blank the screen while playing the sound which is not ideal.
I have to transfer a disk to an ATR - should be done by the weekend..
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That TurboCharger has some amazing routines in there , wish I had seen this 30 years ago. Also solved my image loading query. Fantastic.Thanks again! BTW do you know of any digi sound play back ones for basic?
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Thanks I will check those out!
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Hi, has anyone come across BASIC code to load .FNT files in BASIC on the A8? Cheers.
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Fantastic thanks!
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Whats the current status of this project?
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Hi, has anyone got BASIC code to load or can supply the specs of the image format for the Atari Artist Tablet software? Cheers.
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Excitement

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1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard DIY Builders Thread
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
Nice! Not too keen to show you guys my progress now that I see there's use of the correctly spaced capacitors (not a dig at you Mike
) I soldered my resistor network DIPs, not in sockets like yours, wondering why you would? Do they fail?
I'm building a PAL version (for NZ) Thanks to your photo I now notice I should have added 952-2538-ND to my Digi-Key order for position X2 so the CO16112 could be easily pulled and replaced with the NTSC crystal. It wasn't in the part number column in the BOM
Heres to seeing it fire up!