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gtoal

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About gtoal

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    Space Invader
  1. To bring folks up to date on this... I didn't get the native 6809 code version of Tailgunner working, although it is still on the cards and a little work has been done on it by Alexander von Knorring which I might pick up on some day, but I did manage to get a very good version of the original arcade code running on a cartridge with the help of Thomas Sontowski and the Vecfever. Thomas also made a few stand-alone cartridges for me, which I've given away as presents to "friends and family" (well, actually just friends, none of my family has a Vectrex 🙂 ) but that doesn't help the vectrex world at large get a copy, so I spun off yet another project to build new cartridges that could run arcade vector games in emulation. It's called the "PiTrex" because it mounts a Raspberry Pi Zero on a Vectrex cartridge, and drives the Vectrex from the Pi. That project isn't quite ready but it's nearing fruition and we do have Tailgunner sort of running on the cartridge, though there are a few small timing issues to be sorted out before we can release it.
  2. I know this is an old thread but it's where people end up when looking for that info. An alternative to the above, with a flat head, is https://www.amazon.com/Finish-degrees-Phillips-Thread-Length/dp/B00GI6MUJO/
  3. If your hardware just doesn't have the galvo speed to keep up with a vectrex game, I think you need a different approach than just drawing a subset of the display. Perhaps you could use more than one unit and schedule the vectors across multiple units in a way that allows all the vectors to be drawn within the appropriate frame period? Also the phosphor persistence effect will be missing - you get around that in regular emulators for raster displays by keeping the drawn vectors on the screen a bit longer before removing them, but you don't have that luxury with a laser display. Though you could paint your screen/wall with a weak glow-in-the-dark paint to get a similar effect (you wouldn't want the really good stuff that glows for a long time though!) Good luck with the project!
  4. gtoal

    Vectrex SD Cart?

    (Just FYI I had some problems at first with soft reboots not initialising properly, but since I have my vectrex on a voice-activated power switch anyway and it's just as easy to power off and on again, I haven't had any more problems) As much as Richard's 3D printed enclosure is a nice design, I wanted mine in a proper cart 🙂:
  5. gtoal

    Vectrex SD Cart?

    Haven't heard from you - just a reminder this was a firm commitment. contact [email protected] to tell me how to pay... Graham
  6. gtoal

    Vectrex SD Cart?

    Thought about this hard for a few days since I already have a working solution, but decided in the end to chip in and get one for my backup Vectrex too :-) Put me down for one. You know my email. Graham
  7. gtoal

    Light Gun

    I'll post this info eventually as a web page with photos. Please comment if you see any mistakes or parts that could be improved. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I started this with the info from Chris 'Binarystar' Malcolm's project from 2016. He posted: SMS Pin 5 (VCC) to Vectrex Pin 7 (VCC) SMS Pin 6 (Trigger) to Vectrex Pin 3 (Button 3) SMS Pin 7 (Light sensor) to Vectrex Pin 4 (Button 4) SMS Pin 8 (GND) to Vectrex Pin 8 (GND) That's all the info we need to work out how to rewire the Light Phaser with a new cable taken from a Sega extension cable. Take the Lightgun and carefully split apart the two halves of the rubber shield around the Sega plug. You'll find the inner part of the plug encased in a translucent white plastic. However if you look at it carefully you will be able to see the wires inside... Examine the cable and correlate the wiring colours to the pins in this diagram: Light Phaser plug: 5 4 3 2 1 _____________________ \ * o o o o / \ / (looking from the mating side into the holes.) \ o * * * / \_____________/ 9 8 7 6 SMS Pin 5 (VCC/+5V) SMS Pin 6 (Trigger) SMS Pin 7 (Light sensor) SMS Pin 8 (GND/0V) In my Light Phaser they were: SMS 5: green (VCC/+5V) ....................... SMS 6: blue (trigger) ....................... SMS 7: grey (light sensor) ....................... SMS 8: black (GND/0V) ....................... (If your wires are different colours, write them in here and in the diagrams below where there are "......"s.) Now it's time to open up the Light Phaser - there are obvious screws all on one side, plus one hidden screw under the logo. Ten seconds under a hairdryer will loosen the logo decal enough to slide a fingernail under one end and partially bend it back enough to undo the screw below it. There's a lens that may fall out at the front - this is a good time to give it a clean (and the rest of the unit if it needs it). Looking inside the Light Phaser we see the logic PCB with wires coming out one end: ------------------+ ............. o | black (GND) ............. o | blue (trigger) ............. o | green (VCC/+5v) ............. o | grey (light sensor) ------------------+ (Ignore the two red wires running to the micro switch. Leave them attached.) Now take a SEGA extension cable. You might want to file down the corners of the plug at this point and confirm it can plug in to your Vectrex. Put your joystick/control panel on the other end and test that it still works, to confirm that you can insert the new plug far enough to make contact. Cut the extension cable about a foot from the socket end (male pins - the end where you attached your joystick to test). Strip off about an inch of covering and expose the 9 wires. Use your continuity tester to correlate the wire colours at the cut end to the pins in the plug end (female) (You'll probably have to push some narrower pins or solid wires into the plug holes to make contact as your voltmeter probes will likely be too thick) We are only interested in 4 wires but you may have to test all 9 to work out the colour mapping, unless it happens to be the same as my cable: Vectrex Pin 3 (Button 3 for trigger) Vectrex Pin 4 (Button 4 for light sensor) Vectrex Pin 7 (VCC/+5V) Vectrex Pin 8 (GND/0V) Vectrex plug: 5 4 3 2 1 _____________________ \ o * * o o / \ / (looking from the mating side into the holes.) \ o * * o / \_____________/ 9 8 7 6 In my case they were as below. Write in your colour mapping if different... V1: red V2: black V3: grey (trigger) _________________________ (write in your colours where there are '______'s below) V4: orange (light sensor) _________________________ V5: brown V6: green V7: white (+5v) __________________________ V8: blue (gnd) __________________________ V9: yellow Taking these colours to the corresponding pins on the PCB: PCB Original cable New Cable to Vectrex ------------------+ +--- ........... o | -- blue (gnd) ------------- X ---------------| black ___________________________________ (write in your colours) ........... o | -- grey (trigger) --------- X ---------------| blue ___________________________________ ........... o | -- white (+5v) ------------ X ---------------| green ___________________________________ ........... o | -- orange (light sensor) -- X ---------------| grey ___________________________________ ------------------+ +--- You might as well cut off the 5 unused wires from the new cable. (Take care that the cut ends can't short to each other - I staggered my cuts by a millimeter so they're not adjacent) Now connect the two sets of wires at the X using the press-fit connectors. Test the light gun innards with your vectrex before reassembly. (OR desolder the 4 wires from the PCB and solder the 4 wires from the vectrex in the holes, then test again.) Fit the micro switch back on its columns. Run the new wire round the screw posts which will give it a bit of resistance against being pulled out. Put the lens and the end cap back in place and join the two halves of the gun back together, and screw together. Use!
  8. I saw a new format today from a post on Facebook: "The model is 3000-A1 Australia, serial number is 013518A and made in Taiwan." so that would be 0 xxx xxA Made in Taiwan Can anyone confirm?
  9. PS see https://web.archive.org/web/20160306232450/http://www.pagetable.com/?p=547for a similar example of this method in action...
  10. I noted below the highest numbers from the old serial number list. Substitute any higher ones you know of then do the math from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_tank_problem Ser. No.: 1 xxx xxA - GCE model (fist series before MB takeover) 147016A Ser. No.: 0 xxx xxx - MB USA model 0147543 Ser. No.: xxx xxx - Bandai 027614 Ser. No.: 1 xxx xxx - MB Canada model 1024135 Ser. No.: U xxx xxA - MB UK model (built in Taiwan) U011012A Ser. No.: 2 xxx xxx - MB UK model (build in Hong Kong) 2029821 Ser. No.: 3 xxx xxx - MB Euro model 3116019 Ser. No.: 4 xxx xxx - MB Vectrex series 2 (no buzz issue) model 4017822 Ser. No.: 1 xxx xxA - GCE model (fist series before MB takeover)
  11. Yes, this will require proper debugging. Most likely capacitors to be replaced. There is a brightness control on the back. Reduce the brightness until the rays disappear. If that doesn't help it is another hardware problem that will require debugging. You'll find a lot of hardware description online for the voltages for the joystick and buttons Yes, that's normal.
  12. It's not the cartridges, it's the Vectrex itself which needs adjustment.
  13. Scottish and Irish Gaelic I think. I've heard some awful pronunciations from Americans so far. It's stra as in "strapping" plus "mash" with the emphasis on the second syllable. Last Youtube review I watched sounded more like "Strammish" with the person emphasising the first syllable. The connotations to a Scotsman are not so much a pitched battle as a brawl - a fight in a Glasgow bar at night might be described as a stramash :-) If it was only a couple of guys rather than the whole pub, though, it might just be a wee rammy! G
  14. I don't see how you can use it with the Vectrex switched off - the cartridge gets its power from the Vectrex. It can't be powered by the serial cable. It has a 62256 static ram inside so should take a single image up to 32K Oh wait - I'm describing the Vecram with serial connection. Yours is a vecflash? Never mind... G
  15. I appreciate this is a very old thread but with old posts being so easily findable nowadays, I'll add this info anyway in case anyone bumps into it again... The port above started as my port of Tailgunner to the gp32 - it was written in C and produced by a static binary translation of the original Cinematronics game. Later the C core was reused by Norbert Kehrer to produce a Java port for the web. I'm fairly sure that the GBA version above is the Java port somehow encapsulated with a java interpreter for the GBA. If it's slow it's because of the Java stage being involved. If he were to modify the original C port instead ( http://dl.openhandhelds.org/cgi-bin/gp32.cgi?0%252C0%252C0%252C0%252C38%252C428,0,0,0,30,203), it would likely run at full speed. However these translated binaries are pretty large, and there is no way that they could port to the 6809-based Vectrex - also the vectrex can't display as many vectors and as quickly as the Cinematronics hardware, so a straight port of the original rom is out of the question. However at the moment I am writing a new clone of Tailgunner for the Vectrex from scratch, and although the performance requirements are rather tight, I think it will be possible... (although maybe not in time for the self-imposed Christmas 2017 deadline I set myself for getting it done - I'm having to learn a lot of new coding tricks to get acceptable performance on the hardware and development is progressing slowly...). Graham
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