mobiusstriptech

There is no mod for HDMI on the 2600. Anyone offering it is probably just jamming a composite to HDMI converter inside. Your TV will do a better job.

I normally use a Nintendo RF switch for testing them. It works fine to verify if a picture is coming up at least.

Just FYI, I am almost out of stock on these. I will be ordering more but making a few alterations to the board. The changes will not be require current owners to upgrade. They are mainly minor changes based on data I have compiled. There also will not be a price change for the next revision. If anyone wants bare boards to build themselves, I do have a few bare boards of this current revision that I could sell without components.

Technically it should. As long as it has the same series vdp equipped. I don't know if anyone has actually tried it yet.

Couple things. First, how are you getting composite video? That board only produces component video, so you would need to pull composite video from the expansion connector and I would recommend building the proper circuit for it. Second, check for cold or broken solder joints on the board itself. They make those by hand and I have seen that on 2 boards in the past. Part of the reason I won't use them. Lastly, double check all of your connections. Make sure you are tapping the correct lines from the expansion bus. The pots on that board are brightness, blue, and red. Green is created by the difference between blue and red and luma on that board, if I recall correctly.

No it's not similar to the boards made by Tim Worthington for those consoles. Signals are pulled from the VDP directly and converted to RGB. If you are looking to do this mod yourself, yurkie does not sell DIY kits.

I do these. Cost is $40 plus shipping. You can send the head or just the "lenses". I have done many of these and I provide photos of the work as well as photos of it functioning properly. Don't bother with the "oven trick" it's a stop gap at best and a waste of time. I've had quite a few customers try the oven trick and wish they had just gotten it soldered the first time so they didn't need to keep taking it apart.

My apologies. I read that backwards. I would not use a lower amperage power supply. You are very likely to encounter issues. I have seen that happen when people have used a Genesis power supply for a Duo R.

Yeah you are perfectly fine. The system will only pull the amperage it needs to function. They are generally modern switching supplies which are designed for universal voltage input.

Yeah I don't know why he didn't add something. Personally I would go the mosfet route over the diode, just because you don't have a voltage drop to contend with. The biggest downside though is currently, if U11 pops, you have a very high chance of damage elsewhere. If that happens then the 7805 bypass won't work. Of the ones I have dealt with, I have never been able to use the 7805 bypass. There was always something else that was damaged. Technically you could always do the 7805 bypass right away at install time. I have honestly considered this.

There is a PAL board as well. I don't know if anyone ever tested it though. A few people said they were going to order them. Citrus put them up on oshpark if you want to make some.

Why would you want to replicate the French RGB circuit? Most of the French RGB circuits on old consoles were cobbled together signals from composite video or the bare minimum effort to meet the standards. You can already purchase RGB boards or build them yourself and end up with a really nice quality picture.

Kevtris did not put anything on the board to prevent backwards polarity. You are extremely lucky. These boards are very very susceptible to damage from reverse polarity. At this point I have replaced 5 boards for issues with reversed polarity or just deciding to pop for unknown reasons. When they pop, and it is a literal pop sound, U11 tends to blow internally. I have also seen other regulators blow from the same thing.

The citrus3000psi board is going to be your best bet for RGB. If you would rather have a pure digital HDMI out then the new F18 mk2 is going to be your winner. However that is not yet available. One of the tricky parts about these mods is that the signal attenuation varies greatly from one console to another. I've installed quite a few and found that no 2 have been alike yet.

Yes. Precisely.

The Colecovision only had RF originally. This isnt exactly like those as they use a fpga or cpld with custom firmware. However it is more involved than just a RGB bypass board like the ones for the SNES. The colorspace is being converted from YUV to RGB.

Or Hdretrovision cables

Yep. I still have stock of them.

If you are using hot glue to ensure a solid connection on your joints, you are actually damaging the joints. Hot glue has a time and a place and it's practically never. You can use it for stuff like tacking wires in place but it should never ever be used on a solder joint.

Have you checked the capacitors on the board and in the power/RF box? They are well known for leaking at this point.

It's a cart connector problem. Cutting the lockout chip isn't a solution. Unless you are trying to play an unlicensed game all that cutting the lockout chip does is mask the real problem. The issue is simply poor contact between the cart and console.

So that tells us that the console is working. Which means that either the retrofixes board is messed up or there was an issue in your install of it. Heavy snow in the RF is pretty normal. These consoles have some of the worst RF output you will find.

There is a manufacturing defect that is being corrected. The d-pad was slightly turned. Once that is corrected, stock will be opened back up.

You should put a cap on your audio lines. It will help clean up any noise that gets picked up in the wires or just from the poor filtering in the Colecovision.

There is also the issue of basically no filtering on the boards and between board revisions different routing. The routing in general on these kind of sucked anyways. The boards are practically designed to generate noise and interference.