mobiusstriptech

This is awesome. Definitely looking forward to upgrading my cabinet. Just make sure if you own the 161 and haven't done the capacitor fixes and in some cases voltage regulator, they are a must.

On some MVS boards there is no headphone jack or other means of getting stereo audio. When consolizing an MVS board generally the practice is to hook up stereo sound. So on boards like the 1FZ, where there is no direct method of getting stereo sound, that's where this comes in. The 1FZ has 3 audio channels and none of them would want to be left out. So you can tap each of the 3 channels and feed them into this board. The board will then combine all 3 channels into 2 channels. Now the other important part is that you never want to take the direct 12v driven audio lines and feed them into a SCART device. Doing so will fry the device. So this board will also produce clean line level audio which is safe for 5v driven devices. Examples being the OSSC, Framemeister, or your actual TV speakers.

Pretty sure I recall that. I was only sleeping about 3 hours a night last week to get caught up on work.

Boards still available. I will be trying to add additional updates to the installation instructions with points to tap +5v and tips for the output connectors. It might be a little bit because of other priorities, but I have been working on photos.

This weekend I have been working on additional photos and information for the install guide. Unfortunately the machine I was using for this was previously modified by someone else and I have also been in the process of doing repairs. As it stands I need to correct a short to ground on the 12v rail before I can finish. However, expect an update to the documentation in the near future. For those looking for suggestions on placement of the av connector, I personally recommend using the bottom shell if possible. It just makes it easier for opening and closing, as well as shorter wires. You can use basically all of the back side between the power plug and the actual main board.

Personally I think the 5v ram mod is a great idea. However the chances of damage or traces being lifted is very high. So it really depends on your personal skill level and tools. I haven't had an issue with the ones I have done personally but some are a bit trickier than others. It doesn't help that they bent the legs down after chip insertion and before soldering.

Honestly I would probably end up using is still. I have multiple sets of cables for the same consoles. Makes for fast testing.

I really considered the Hydra when he announced the 16 port but I have been super happy with my gscartsw and bandridge setup.

The mechanical switches definitely have the issue. It's pretty well documented. It's possible that the trace was already cut or you just haven't noticed. Either way, very easy fix and they definitely do their job. As long as you are happy with it, that's ultimately what matters. The old gscartsw was still a great switch. If you encounter any issues with the low pass filtering, there is a mod for adding a switch to enable and disable it. RetroRGB has it documented.

Well that depends on what the monitor accepts for signals. This outputs csync but many monitors expect hsync and vsync separate. So you would need to handle that on your own. If the monitor accepts RGB with csync, then yeah you would be all set.

Yeah I'm not trash talking it. It's a good switch for the price. Just need that one modification.

That's kind of pricey for that gscart. You can buy the newer and substantially better gscartsw_lite for less. The lite has 2 SCART outputs with 8 inputs and sync regeneration, which corrects issues with poor sync signals. It also provides a better alternative to sync stripping on composite video as sync devices. The bandridge 5port automatic switcher is known to suffer from brightness issues and some very light noise. However for under $100 shipped to the US, it is a decent option. I have heard these are as cheap as $30 in Europe. The mechanical bandridge out performs the automatic but it does require a trace to be cut to prevent crosstalk issues. Another decent option is the Hydra. The new Hydra is pretty cool with 16 ports if I recall. It's also a pretty decent size because of that.

If you did the 5v ram mod, then you can take it from the line you added. Otherwise the middle ceramic cap by L3. Reference number C42 should be +5v. Last place is directly from the +5v in from the power supply. There are multiple other places but those are the ones that come to me off the top of my head.

Like I said, lots of people buy them. I have one that I use for quick testing but not regular usage. Part of the problem with superguns in general is they are usually trying to cover every case. That means they have to have all kinds of adjustable settings.

If you don't want to go the consolization route, then you need a super gun, power supply, controllers, and whatever video cables you want to use. A lot of people buy the cheap retroelectronik supergun but it isn't designed correctly. The one to get currently is the HAS. Unfortunately I don't think RGB is making anymore right now. I think he was planning on changing something. If you want to go the consolization route, then just decide if you want to pay someone or do it yourself.

Yes you can. However it is basically impossible to get perfect signals without a scope. Most people have been doing it without a scope and had pretty good results.

The big batch is about halfway gone. I was thinking about doing a batch about 4x the size of this one just to ensure I won't run out for a very long time. The popularity of this board has been much higher than I ever could have anticipated. However it looks like there may be a few more people mass producing these soon. So I am on the fence about whether I want to make more when these run out.

Plenty of boards are still available. International shipping is also available for an extra $10USD. If you order multiple boards the price will not increase unless you order enough to raise the weight. That would be quite a few boards. Pictures of installed units are being posted to the original thread in the Colecovision section.

Those are the "simple" 2600 composite video boards. They can be hit or miss on most consoles. Usually the ones with 3 resistors include a 75ohm for attenuation on the output.

Just ordered one for myself because why not. Funny enough I could probably just drive over and get it. They are located very close to me.

I had looked at that before but never pulled the trigger. I assume you have been happy with it?

That's pretty awesome. Are you using them on a flash cart or burning them to a home brew board?

That makes sense. I hate when the photos do that.

Might just be the picture, white looks gray. But definitely looks crisp.

Personally I never recommend drilling the RCA jacks. There is literally no reason to not get the replacement rear panel these days. I will do a composite mod with the rear panel for $60. And I won't cut pin 21. I will socket the PPU and lift it properly.