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boggis the cat

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About boggis the cat

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    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 02/23/1970

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  1. As mentioned above, your options are to change the pots in the original paddles (swap out the 1 MOhm with 10 kOhm) or modify the board: https://armchairarcade.com/perspectives/2019/10/15/hardware-mod-to-support-standard-paddles-on-atari-flashback-9-and-9-gold/ I have done both, and the paddle modification was much easier (gave that FB9 to my sister). Go for that if you can get original paddles easily, and buy decent potentiometers (I gave a link to suitable ones in an earlier post — they have to survive a lot of rotation, so cheap Chinese stuff is not a good idea). Otherwise, unless you are good with soldering tiny resistors, find someone locally who works on cellphone repair or such and can easily do the work. My suggestion is to use 430 kOhm resistors as the 510 kOhm (suggested in the guide linked above) didn’t work well in my FB9. I haven’t swapped them out yet, because mental health is important.
  2. You need to use diodes to prevent this. I haven’t gotten around to building the buttons in to a joystick yet, and just used a set of five push buttons to map out the ‘special’ options. Diodes are necessary to prevent any inadvertent operation as you note.
  3. They’re not compatible, unfortunately. The joysticks seem to come ‘locked’ to certain frequencies, so you may find that another device is interfering with it. I got a second FB9 for my sister, and found that her P1 was terrible on her system. Swapped it for the P1 that came with mine, and it worked much better. (Slight degradation for the swapped P1 on my system, but I prefer the old wired joysticks anyway.)
  4. Hi. Sorry for the late reply. I don’t get on here often. I misread the first post and thought it referred to the Flashback 9 type of joysticks. Those are fairly obvious to modify. I haven’t seen the IR variants — the FB4 I had years ago I sold on and never inspected the innards of the joysticks — but you should open both up and compare the two boards. Most likely there will be a few components missing on one board (the P2), and of course the buttons. If you modify the P2 board to be like the P1 then you should be able to swap it in. Unfortunately the components will most likely be tiny surface mount resistors. If you haven’t done any soldering before then it’ll be a bad idea to start with this project, due to the high risk of failure.
  5. My copy arrived yesterday (new delivery speeds due to Covid-19), and looks good. I have to bust out a real 7800 to play it on, and haven’t got around to that yet.
  6. Unlikely to. Serial comms typically use only four pins, and they save a couple of cents by not wiring up unused pins. You could buy two joystick extension leads then splice them together.
  7. The newest ‘official’ firmware fixes this bug. Try installing it.
  8. Finally ordered a copy of this. It’s a pity it hasn’t sold as well as hoped for.
  9. The red part is a programming interface (ISP). This is used to flash the firmware in the factory. The yellow part is probably an I2C bus, or a serial port. Neither can be used for what you want to do. Piggy-backing on the J2 USB is probably the best option. If you buzz out the circuit you might find a via or other convenient soldering point.
  10. Hi. I just did this mod today, using 510k resistors. It does indeed stop shy on the left edge. Gah! Anyway, as this is a difficult process (I think I invented several new swears), I would suggest going with 430k or even 390k. After measuring the resistors taken out, which are 5.1k, it appears that the engineers went with a straight scaling for the replacement: 5.1k are designed to work with 10k pots in the paddles, therefore they are suggesting 510k for the standard 1M pots. This doesn’t quite work, so drop that resistance from 510k — judging by where the ‘left’ (high resistance) position runs out, my estimate is drop to 430k. [Series is 510k, 470k, 430k, 390k ... 470k may do it, but go for 430k I reckon.]
  11. Hi. I missed this post, sorry. It is possible to change a P2 to a P1 by changing some resistors and adding the required buttons. Another option is modding a standard joystick to give you the extra buttons. If you still want to work on this, reply letting me know if you want the wireless or standard mod and I’ll dig out the information.
  12. I’d be interested in buying one when they come available. Just a thought on the scarcity of POKEY chips: perhaps use the PokeyONE (or similar) in the post pre-order units? The full capabilities of the POKEY aren’t required by the 7800. Or maybe give buyers options to have just a socket, a real POKEY, or the PokeyONE.
  13. You can get up to seven ‘buttons’ using impossible joystick returns. The combinations used by the Flashback are: MENU = UP + DOWN SELECT = LEFT + RIGHT REWIND = LEFT + RIGHT + UP START = UP + DOWN + LEFT Plus you have: LEFT + RIGHT + DOWN (SELECT) UP + DOWN + RIGHT (MENU) UP + RIGHT + DOWN + LEFT (not tested) If you use the first two of the above three combinations on the Flashback then you get SELECT and MENU. I didn’t try the last, so don’t know how that would be interpreted. I don’t believe that you can use the FIRE button in combination (to add another eleven possible selections) without turning off normal joystick operation in the programming. Possibly you could use one of the above ‘buttons’ to set an input mode that activates / deactivates these up to eleven optional ‘buttons’. It would be important for programmers to agree on any such usage.
  14. You can get decent Chinese CX-40 clones from AliExpress. I bought a few, as the originals are hard to come by in decent working order. My intent is to modify one by adding the Flashback buttons, but I haven’t got around to designing the support for the circuit board.
  15. How is it broken? You can exchange physical parts between the joysticks, and even change the P1 and P2 around by swapping around resistors — if you open both joysticks and compare them you’ll see the differences. So if you still have the broken joystick it shouldn’t be too hard to make a new P1. Edit: Or you could make a hardwired joystick into a ‘P1’ type controller by adding the buttons:
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