Jump to content

boggis the cat

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

About boggis the cat

  • Rank
    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 02/23/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

1,965 profile views
  1. The 10k will give you the full travel. As you increase that value you will get a shorter and shorter usable range, with the anti-clockwise always starting just after the stop, and the clockwise pegging out earlier in the travel. The downside of a higher value potentiometer is that you’ll have mechanical ‘overshoot’ in the clockwise direction, and lesser fine control available — although with the 2600 that isn’t necessarily a problem. (If you plug in an unmodified paddle, with a 1 MOhm pot, you’ll see that it does work, but the full range is over the tiny portion of the far anti-clockwise section near the end stop — one percent of the normal rotation yields one hundred percent of the range. Substituting a pot greater than 10k yields the same thing, with a truncated clockwise physical travel to get the full range.)
  2. If you can disassemble it then try some switch cleaner / lubricant. Sometimes the grease used in potentiometers is quite viscous, and the action can be made much easier by displacing it with this. (It should come in a spray can, and you spray it around the top of the pot where the spindle exits then rotate it back and forth to have it wick in. Let it sit for a while before reassembly — there should be instructions on the can.) Do this at at your own risk, obviously.
  3. Just to add that you can search for the NTSC version of the TIA by the part number CO10444. “UM6526” is the chip designation: but “UM6526P1” is the PAL version, which won’t work, and you often see PAL versions incorrectly labelled as just UM6526 on e.g. AliExpress. (The PAL TIA is part number CO11903.) So far as I know, all UM6532 chips (the “RIOT” chip) and UM6507 should work on either NTSC or PAL VCS / 2600s; but the 6502C in the 7800 is a custom 6502, and standard ones won’t work. I’ve not seen the custom video chip from the 7800 for sale. Not enough 7800s scrapped to have a pool of recycled chips, I guess.
  4. Did you check continuity through to the TIA chip? (It is the TIA as DrVenkman pointed out, not they RIOT as I incorrectly suggested.) TIAs are harder to get hold of, and you will need the correct version (they are for NTSC or PAL, and the pinouts differ), but it’s the same approach. If you have socketed chips then it’s fairly simple — if they’re soldered, then it’s a PITA. Once you know the culprit, perhaps you can put up a post on the buy/sell to see if anyone nearby has a suitable spare.
  5. If you have a two-player game then try connecting a joystick to only port 2. If port 2 functions correctly then it’s likely a fault on the board. If port 2 also misbehaves then it might be a bad RIOT chip. If it’s the chip and your 7800 has socketed chips then that’s fairly easy to fix, provided you can get your hands on another (search for “MOS 6532”). If it’s a board fault then you’d be best to let someone look at it who is comfortable troubleshooting these old systems.
  6. Does it do this with no controllers attached?
  7. You might want to try contacting Atgames about it. There is a reset switch inside, but you’d have to break the warranty seal to get to that. I think that you could put the new firmware on the SD card, then turn on while pressing the reset to get it to drop out to the base system. You may get a test screen with cryptic instructions — if so, it should be asking you to press some button combinations on the box to do stuff.
  8. Take out the batteries to reset the joystick if you can’t connect it. Some joysticks seem to have trouble, probably locked to certain frequencies. I bought a second FB9 for my sister and ended up giving her my P1 joystick because the one that came with hers was unusable on her console (but works reasonably well with mine). These are cut down to reach a price point, so aren’t up to the standard of ‘real’ Bluetooth joysticks.
  9. It works on the Australia / New Zealand models, so I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
  10. The UID is on an info screen that you bring up on the console. My one only had fifteen digits, so I entered a leading digit (I think it was a “1”, but can’t recall) then the fifteen and that worked.
  11. Replied in the other thread. Won’t work because Ohm’s law.
  12. That doesn’t work as it is not linear. Consider putting a fixed 10 kOhm resistor in parallel with the 1 MOhm potentiometer. At zero position you get 0 MOhm // 10 kOhm = 0 kOhm, which is correct; then set the pot half way, where you want 5 kOhm, 0.5 MOhm // 10 kOhm = 9.8 kOhm, ... oops. To get 5 kOhm you have to wind the pot up to only 0.01 MOhm (10 kOhm). So doing this converts your linear paddle to a logarithmic paddle, which is useless. The pot swapping mod is reversible, if you keep the old pots.
  13. I did look at the board in the Flashback. Unfortunately it would be pretty tricky to get it to work. Some messing about with capacitance to see if it was an RC network (and thus could be shifted to work with 1 MOhm pots) didn’t yield anything, and most of the circuitry is highly integrated / inaccessible to mere mortals. I think you’d have to build an entire front-end with active components then tune it to work correctly with the circuit that is polling the paddles. Beyond my capability to build something sensible that would achieve that end. There would be a reason why the engineers went with the now-standard 10 kOhm pots. My guess is that modern systems are simply too twitchy to handle that large resistance swing. All modern consoles seem to use 10 kOhm. Earlier Flashback models used the standard paddles but were quite laggy, thus making the capability a bit pointless. So we’re stuck with modding existing paddles, or waiting for Atgames to actually produce compatible paddles.
  14. Based on that spec sheet, I think that you need a P230 2 F x 25 B R10K. The x is ‘doesn’t matter’, as the Atari paddles have no particular required end stops. To be sure, compare it with my Bourns potentiometer. The bushing length (the 2 above) is fairly critical, so double-check it. The Bourns is 10 mm, this has either 9.5 mm or 11 mm, so I have selected the 9.5 mm — but it may be best to measure the existing one and choose the best fit. You will have to grind down the flat further to fit the knob, or modify the knob. Unfortunately they don’t seem to make the half-flatted type of pots any more that are in the original paddles.
  15. No, I don’t think so. That message appears spuriously when an original paddle is attached and not turned very close to fully anti-clockwise. The firmware is the same, so I guess it has that message built in regardless. The wireless joysticks are not terrible but also not that good. You can use wired joysticks along with the wireless to get to menus etc. which is useful. (Unfortunately, not any sort of standard wireless arrangement so not easy to attach a better joystick.)
  • Create New...