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rbairos

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About rbairos

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  1. Hey great novel concept! Good use of the brightness palette entries.
  2. I understand the benefit of overwriting addresses and values to the tia during writes but is there any value in stuffing the bus during a read? I'm working on a design and wondering if that's important. Eg overwriting returned joystick values etc. Can't imagine it's been used in practise but just want to verify. Thanks.
  3. (Short answer for anyone interested: Most likely pixel clock and cycle are always aligned for the 2600, but 6502 emulator was left more general for historical reasons.)
  4. I think that should read: At the start of each line, does pixel 0 always coincide with the start of a cpu cycle? (though it could be the start of cycle 2 or cycle 3 etc)
  5. Thanks, that what I assume as well. I'll drop a note with the Stella people for clarification. Cheers, Rob.
  6. Hello, I know the TIA runs three steps for every one cycle of the 6507, but my question is: At the start of each line, does pixel 0 always coincide with the first cycle of an instruction? Trying to force a counter example, but having difficulties. Specifically looking at the stella code: void TIA::onHalt() { mySubClock += (TIAConstants::H_CLOCKS - myHctr) % TIAConstants::H_CLOCKS; mySystem->incrementCycles(mySubClock / TIAConstants::CYCLE_CLOCKS); mySubClock %= TIAConstants::CYCLE_CLOCKS; } I can never get mySubClock to exit that function with a non-zero value. That is, myHctr is always an example multiple of 3? Thanks, Ro.
  7. So I got a kernel working with this method. Works on stella emulator, light sixer, even the Flashback 2. I should be able to try out Colecovision adapter soonish.
  8. Alright, ended up using a length of spare svideo cable (had 4 conductors), and a DB9 connector (with internal terminal strip). Not factory identical, but tidy enough and works and saved the 40 year old bases from landfill.
  9. Just a followup. I received the 9 pin cable over a year ago and finally decided to splice it in tonight. Was going well, until another break in the original atari cable. Then another. It was looking pretty monstrous so going to rethink this cable replacement fix.
  10. Alright here's the update: Spoiler: it works again. What we did: 1. First we cleaned all the cartridge edges, and the connector. We used white erases, deoxit and isopropyl alcohol. Unfortunately same problems remained. 2. We then were able to take the case apart (just 8 screws on the bottom, without disturbing the metal front plate), though this took some careful fiddling. We were also able to remove the shielding which luckily was just soldered on one spot, removing some easily accessible screws. This gave access to the switch, which we just sprayed with deoxit without removing its case. We also inspected for bad solder joints, and gave the board a gentle cleaning with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. Unfortunately same problems still remained. 3. Finally we desoldered the power switch main upper casing from the board. (Two large solder points) This revealed six contact points, 2 of which were black, the rest yellow. This cleaned up easily to a shiny silver color. The problem still remained, but after a couple of switch cycles, all was finally good consistently. So our success rate went from about 10% to 100%. Thanks for all the tips! Rob.
  11. Thanks. So a pull down resistor on each, and possibly low pass filtering?
  12. Hello. Looking through the atari NTSC schematics on this site, I notice, Pin 8 of ic 6532 has a tie to ground through a cap. This corresponds to pin 1 of right joystick. Why only that pin and not the others? Thanks, Rob.
  13. Sorry, busy time of year, but I hope to apply these techniques very soon. Will definitely report back.
  14. Thanks that makes a lot of sense. Luckily I already have deoxit and isopropyl alcohol and white erasers at hand. -Rob
  15. Hello a friend just acquired a colecovision and 2 carts (Smurf and Cabbage Patch Kids). Cabbage patch rarely starts up, and Smurf starts up with several artefacts half the time. Any advice how to start diagnosing? From the little I know, it may be a DRAM issue? In which case, I should look for dry solder joints and/or consider a DRAM update kit which foregoes the multiple voltages? Thanks for any info, Rob.
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