Brian W.

Hey all, I found what I think might be an alternative way from different methods I've seen. It seems to provide a very clean and brilliant image. I need to make an improvement on how it's connected and get some pictures taken when I have some daylight. But here's how it's setup. This is a quick and dirty guide, I'll work on a better one later. The biggest issue with the guides and instructions people are making, do not include some steps, insight or proper pictures to help 1st timers build a proper setup with the UAV. I also would like some input from anyone who may have installed a UAV in a NTSC 2600 jr. So for now this is a sorta beta/alpha installation for me. It's working, but the S-video will be tested tomorrow to make sure it's working correctly. I suspect it will be fine. This works on a NTSC version, I don't have a PAL setup to test. 1. Typical removal of the 4050 IC. (toss it if you wish, it's not needed) - Install machine grade pins to the socket connectors (allows the length needed to tip it forward and solider. This gives the clearance needed for the shielding. 2. Pin jumpers follow a different layout. But are the same as another layout I saw in the forum. X are connected jumps. - O O O O O O O X X O - O X X O O X X X X O 3. Remove the following connections R31,R53,R56,R42,C53 & 54, R19 & C34. - Keep C34 intact, pull it out Vs. Cutting it out. it's going to be reused. - Check voltage on R19 at this point to make sure it's been disconnected 100%. 4. Connect the following to positions to your Color in on the UAV - To the right of the CPU, R28 has a though hole just below it. Connect that position to CO IN on the UAV. - Connect the South end of resistor (R52) Closest to the bottom end of the board to CO IN on the UAV. - What does this do? It cleans up the image and equalized the color brightness levels so no other color was stronger than any other. 5. Connect the CV (Composite Video) to the R19 Right East (or right side of the former resistor location.) - The R19 though hole connection is traced to the former RF output, so you can use it for composite video. The RF should be dead if you disconnected the other connections. - Double check R19 with a voltage meter! 6. Connect the C34 Ceramic Cap to the following points in any way you want. From under with kynar or on top with kynar. You can soilder it to the jumper or to the points under it. or bridge it with the C34 alone. - What's this do? it bumps up the color vibrancy and saturation. I totally stumbled on this, and have yet to see if this works on any other Atari. - O O O O O O O X X O - O X X O O X X X X O 7. Clear the 4050's holes of any solider, prepare the UAV with the machine grade pins. - With the machine pins installed on the UAV, fit it into the former 4050 socket at a tipped angle, in favor of the lowest point to the front of the Jr's PCB. The image is a prototyping of it today, the final has no picture to share yet. Please let me know if you notice anything unclear or have concerns about this method causing issues for you! Validation with examples will help!

There's always just doing emulation on your PC, and getting a DB9 to USB joystick.

What do you want to do? This sounds like you're on the wrong track. Coax to HDMI ? nope, not without a conversion box of some sort. But you have to be going from RF to a Coax input Conversion box, Then HDMI to a TV. The Quality will be total crap. I mod systems to be either UAV Rev D to HDMI or Composite to HDMI.

This is really cool. How does the interface look on the system?

Very cool work! I greatly appreciate this gift! I do have a constructive issue thou. I have this running on my pi without issue. But I noted on my laptop, which is running ubuntu 16.04, and retropi installed from source. That the coolcv_pi app listed as an optional emulator #108 on pi. is not available to install on my laptop version of retropi. Is there a huge enough OS gap that causes this not be available on Ubuntu 16? Happy New Years!