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Mr Robot

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About Mr Robot

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  • Birthday 03/04/1968

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    Lost in the Robot Factory
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    Englishman in St. Louis
  • Interests
    Drinking Tea while doing Graphic Art, Typography, PCB Design, 3D Modelling, Woodworking, Baking
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  1. With that resistor there, won't it think the cable is always plugged in even when it's not? You wont ever be able to load ATR's without the cable like that! Still waiting on Aliexpress here.
  2. Why not center the led hole in the middle of the symbol. Maybe even fill the hole in and just make the case thinner there, you could even put the indent on the inside. Worth a test print!
  3. I love that translucent filament and the way the infill shows through. I'd be tempted to experiment with infill patterns more if I knew they'd be visible!
  4. If you have a 3D printer that can't handle a ~2mm bridge you need to recheck your printer calibration, with proper cooling even a cheap printer can do 25-30mm without sagging. Any bridging issue at the bottom of these grooves should be invisible. Markings on 3d prints are particularly tricky, the minimum width line without swapping nozzles is likely to be 0.4mm but print orientation is going to be an important consideration, it you want embossed markings you can't have that toward the print bed as it will raise the entire print up and want supports. If you do it on the side there will be issues with the sharp cornering required unless you print really slowly even then over extruding at corners is likely. Doing it on the top of the print is the best choice but that is rarely the best orientation for printing the rest of the object. This is why the default Ultimate Cart case has a separate logo panel and a cutout on the case to glue it into, that way the case prints in one orientation and the logo prints in another. I would suggest something similar for the Fujinet; cut a groove into the case for the labels and print them separately. This would make updates for alternative uses for the buttons easier too, just a small change to the label panel. Printed that way you can also change filament mid print and do the lettering a different colour.
  5. I think I may have to do the Altirra thing. It'll be a learning experience at least!
  6. Simple solution, we could just label it with a ⚡️ symbol to identify it as a lightning fast SIO port connector. If we want a harder wearing connector than a JST we're going to have to pick something already existing, no ones going to make a proprietary one just for this. µSIO or something.
  7. The D to F thing seems quite common, I found one earlier this a single byte difference, a change from DF to FF. I wish I knew what the change was, having [a] in the filename isn't good enough, I want to know why its an alt.
  8. looks like using a micro usb connector would be safer and easier. Micro usb breakout boards are cheap
  9. I'm finding differences like this in a few 5200 cart roms, where D0 becomes F0 and DC becomes FC in a few places in the file. Any explanation as to what this means and why it happens would be greatly received. Here's a screenshot of Hex fiend showing the diffs Here are the two roms Buck Rogers - Planet of Zoom (1983) (Sega).binBuck Rogers - Planet of Zoom (1983) (Sega) [a1].bin
  10. I think so. I got it from a8preservation so it’s very likely
  11. Antic or ANALOG? Early ANALOG disks don't appear to have had a menu, but the earliest ANALOG in A8SP is iss 36 and it has this by iss 75 is looks like this. Antic had a few different menus as well. The pic you posted and this one seem to be the most common menus. There are so many disks labeled as Antic/ANALOG that are actually just a few of the files, probably typed in by a user and labelled as the issue that finding verified original dumps is quite important for magazine disks. Atari User UK had a disk available but I've never seen a genuine one.
  12. Something like this? It looks like SDrive-ARM is still in development, maybe @alsp's firmware has ATX and turbo CAS support?
  13. Send a message to @tmp
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