Mr Robot

That document is linked at the bottom of the De Re page.

You mean MacRorie is selling the blank PCB's but not including the BOM's? I can't believe that, I'm sure the Cart BOM just got accidentally missed off the instructions you were sent. I've got your DM and I've replied with the BOM. I can't say whether it has changed since I handed over the design files, b ut it was correct at one point.

Welcome to AtariAge! I've updated the file on my TNFS server as well.

Doesn't Control+W save that option? I've not tried it but that's the config save option from the app.

This isn't going to stop tnfs visitors from creating files just people connecting via smb. You need to set the ownership of the files to one account (the one you upload stuff using) but set the credentials of the connecting tnfs users to something else. Give that user read only access.

I had to rename a bunch of the paths on my tnfs because of that (rename "Adventure International" to "AI" for example), it also stopped the Homebrew awards entries being available for some of the files. Also falls through to the access logs with any path over something like 170 characters having its name truncated.

One had 48k, 4 joystick ports and OS-B, the other had 64K, 2 joystick ports and OS-XL

You should mention Multijoy in (5) and that most if not all of the 4 player games now have Multijoy versions for XL/XE

1. I'd get the 130XE over the 800XL, its the most compatible with the entire library, doesn't have as good of a keyboard as the 800XL, and I don't think it looks as nice, but if you are just wanting a box for your game room with a cart full of games on it, the 130xe is going to be the most compatible. 2. You can use standard Atari joysticks and paddles 3. 5200 roms will not run on it but by now almost all the roms for the 5200 have 8-bit conversions and you can run any of those. 4. Original Atari PSU's are usually fine (there is an 'ingot' variety that is known to fail and kill Atari's but all the rest are fine). If you get an Atari with an ingot, cut the cables off it for spares and throw it away. 5. If you want compatibility with modern games and old games released later in the Atari's life, you might want to think about getting a PAL Atari over an NTSC one as most of the modern software is written in Europe, NTSC tends to be an afterthought or last step in the dev process. This will mean you also need a display you can use with a PAL machine. I deliberately didn't answer the 'which cart' question, there are lots of choices and _everyone_ has an opinion and favorite. Mine is the SUB Cart or AVG Cart, both will work for you. Other people will be along shortly to recommend all the other ones!

You don’t jump, you use the teleports. Jumping is for the baddies

Agent Wander, Just posted on Reddit, the author would like some testing on real hardware. Written for NTSC which makes a nice change!

Yes i expect it’s pretty simple, if you have the original board, to follow the traces. At most it will be one resister and a couple of wires. If no one else has that board, no one else can help you. I don’t know how much more help anyone else can offer, it’s pretty much up to you to work it out and share the info so it can help the next person looking for this info.

The LED's were for the modified Drive cases Gavin made from my original drive case designs, he added drive activity and power leds to the front of the cases

The 1.3 disks are on my TNFS server if anyone wants to try it out. Let me know if you have any issues getting them to load, I've tested locally but not over the internet yet.

I contacted the seller, he didn’t realize he’d messed that up and he’s changed it.

Gavin never shared the Gerber's or even the schematic for his revision of the board so I don't know what he did exactly. From the looks of it he just added a resistor and a trace to the power line for the power led and got the act led from a couple of points where the pcb solders to the uno. If you follow the traces from the led pickup points to the other end you can see where to tack a wire to pick up the same levels. you will need to measure the resistance on that 3rd resistor to see what value it is and use a similar value if you want the led to be the same brightness.

I’m planning to rewrite de re when my sub cart arrives. if anyone wants to help with proofreading and technical corrections/ readability improvements etc I’d appreciate it.

I don't want to drag this off topic so this is just a sidebar. I have noticed an uptick in new software that supports or even requires the VBXE lately; it does appear to be getting more support, maybe it has finally reached a large enough number of people that developers think it's worth the effort.

The GitHub link I posted is also Rees, it's probably the files he uses for the mirror. If anyone has a complete backup of the site before it closed I'd happliy give it a home on my webspace. I notice that no one has converted Curts Facebook to a memorial page yet, I have a few departed friends that are the same, it's like people don't know you can do that.

url?

There's this https://github.com/reeshub/atarimuseum.com

I've been meaning to get one of these to update De Re Avgcart. Ordered

That's my website

It's an UNO2SIO board made by Gavin at VCC. He's no longer trading.

Does anyone have a copy of "Demon's Lair"? It was a game given away as a Freebie in Atari User Vol.1 Iss.10 to people who purchased the Disk or Tape. I can't find it anywhere!