Mr Robot

810 case still has 1.5 hours to go...

My Abbuc membership came through today, so that's a positive. My wife and I have friends in Germany and Vienna and we definitely plan to visit at some point. It might be a couple of years but I will make sure it's when fujiama is on.

I've tried that, I think my ABL is failing and catching the model at random points in the print. I am now printing with a 1mm z-hop which is ridiculous but it does seem to be working. I have some fine stringing, it looks like spiders are nesting but I'm over half way through with no disasters so far. I need to look into getting another ABL.

I never bothered with that either, I use that 13 pin connector for my VBXE now

I am having lots of problems getting a good 810 print. all the little veins on the back keep popping off the print bed, there is a LOT of tweaking and wastage happening In the mean time, the devil makes work for idle hands...

yes, just leave d1 and d2 on the sdrive empty and they will be disabled allowing your physical drives to be used. Check my sig for the full tutorial.

Does anyone have an xegs cart shell they wouldn't mind parting with? It doesn't even have to be usable, so if you accidentally broke off all the tabs and now have a useless cart shell, I'd still be interested. I'm wanting to model it for 3d printing so I don't need it for actual use. Willing to pay postage and a reasonable sum for it.

Two people now have mentioned to me that they are looking forward to meeting me at Fujiama this year so I thought I had better say that I am not going this year, I wish I were but I don't have the resources to get there this year. I'm sorry if I've said something that has given anyone the impression I will be attending this year. Please take lots of pics, I'd like to be there and vicariously is the only way I can this year.

Nope, libretro is still using v3.1.0 from 2014, it was last updated 6 days ago to stop a crash bug on PSVita so there is active development, just no desire from the libretro devs to update the core.

I just removed my .cfg file and ran atari800, I got this >~:atari800 User config file '/Users/steve/.atari800.cfg' not found. Trying system wide config file: /etc/atari800.cfg No configuration file found, will create fresh one from scratch: Writing config file: /Users/steve/.atari800.cfg Requested resolution 336x240 is not available, using 640x480 instead. Video Mode: 336x240x32 windowed without vsync and a window with just a grey screen! so here is my atari800.cfg file with all the rom locations blanked out, put this in your home folder and rename it to .atari800.cfg that should get the window to display, you can hit F1 and set up everything from there. I need to raise an issue with the atari800 devs about that not working right on new cfg creation. atari800.cfg

Just a thought, what happens if you press F1? (fn+F1 if you haven't reversed the functions) it should show a menu, F9 (fn+F9) should quit. You aren't getting any OpenGL init messages. I'd expect to see stuff like this. :~> atari800 Using Atari800 config file: /Users/steve/.atari800.cfg Created by Atari 800 Emulator, Version 4.0.0 Video Mode: 873x667x32 windowed, pixel format: BGR16 OpenGL initialized successfully. Version: 2.1 INTEL-12.10.12 OpenGL Pixel Buffer Objects not available. Can you type the following and C/P the results which sdl-config sdl-config --version sdl-config --cflags sdl-config --libs

Reason why I use atari800 mostly: Reason why I use atari800 mostly: I don't like Windows; Altirra in Wine still has the Windows UI. Running Windows apps in Wine is at best an irritating slow buggy stopgap. Wine on macOS is still hamstrung by being 32-bit and by Apples abandonment of OpenGL in favour of Metal. The Wine devs don't think Wine will be 64-bit on macOS before Catalina is released, there is no roadmap for Vulkan support yet. Altirra takes ages to start in Wine, and it doesn't run full speed on my MacBook if I enable anything more advanced than Atari800 can do (Drive Emulation, VBXE, U1MB, Rapidus, Shaders etc.).

Given that @skr doesn't know the file exists, I'd be amazed if there was anything in there that was not settable from the UI and from his post it sounds like the cfg file was from v3.1.0. There were a lot of changes to the cfg file in the move to 4.1.0, a lot of the stuff in there would be wrong now and could even be the cause of his unworking install.

1010 after an hour... 5 more hours to go for the main body. Still need front panel, metal strip and back panel.

in your home directory you will have a .atari800.cfg file (notice the leading . ) that's the default config and in there you have (in the past) set up an atari800 install from homebrew and you used a very odd location to store your roms which you have cleared out at some point. you can edit that file or just delete it and let atari800 set up a new one, given the version of the old one, if you don't have anything clever in there, I'd delete the file. Type cd rm .atari800.cfg into a terminal window to delete it. if you delete the file and then run atari800 it should start up with altirraos as the default rom.

This arrived today, thank you @tmp that was very generous of you!

Here we have a colour fail. I have the only SDM case in the world that looks like it has been sat near a window for 20 years yellowing. This is now a $20 reel of PLA I can't use for anything. It was also extremely abrasive and has worn the sacrificial filament guide I have in place and it needed a temp of 220 to extrude properly. Ordered another lighter colour filament. Scribbles on paper are the math from recalibrating my extruder. I have learned so much from doing this, it's been excellent fun.

Thanks! My printer has been pretty tied up constantly since I got it

Maybe check this out https://atari8bit.net/multifire-3-button-atari-joysticks/

Exactly right The XF-551 is 2 pieces, 1 colour. The 1010 and 1050 are 4 pieces, 3 colours. The 810 is 3 pieces, 2 colours. The small pieces can be printed at maybe 5 per print, the back panels can be printed 4 per print and take 17 hours for the front panels, 4 hours for the back panels and 2 hours each for the silver strips. The main shell is a single model per print. They take between 7 and 10 hours each to print. All told each case is about 10-12 hours of print time. As long as it never goes wrong. The materials cost about $5

This is just my WIP thread. When they are finished and I have documented the process on my webpage I will be making a post about it. Wait till you see the final thing before you decide which is your favourite

After a fraught day yesterday my printer now has an aluminium extruder, a glass bed, the latest Marlin firmware and auto bed levelling. Recalibration now needs to happen

They are infilled, so not solid, but yes its a lot more material than the standard cases.

I have a beige reel arriving on Monday, how close the match is I won't know till I print it. There are lots of beiges out there, people use them to print dinosaur skeletons and stuff like that. Dark brown was hard to get, I've a feeling the one I ordered is going to be a bit light, hopefully it'll be close enough.

The top of the 1010 has some finish issues, it wasn't quite flat. I've fixed that and need to reprint. It's huge but looks great! Back to no stringing issues, I think that was just a side effect of that print being shifted slightly!