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A.J. Franzman

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Everything posted by A.J. Franzman

  1. Simbo, Kakaboy said nothing about using an IC to double the frequency of a crystal. I know there are other ways to get a different frequency than what a crystal is made for, but to do so would not be a simple "drop in" fix for his problem, and he's obviously not very knowledgeable so having him attempt to make a daughter module to replace the function of his missing crystal is not very helpful advice. Also, Kakaboy, since your post has little to do with Spirantho's topic, by posting about it here we're doing what is known as "hijacking the thread", which is considered extremely rude. And I'm guilty of aiding and abetting. Please post a new topic for your issue and let's start over.
  2. Man, what have you been smoking? Nothing of what you wrote, that I've quoted above, could possibly have anything to do with his unit's symptoms. If the crystal or any of its associated components are bad, the console WILL NOT WORK AT ALL, because the output from the crystal oscillator is the master clock for all of the main ICs. If a crystal is borderline in some way that causes it to have polarity, such that turning it around makes the circuit work, take that crystal back out and throw it away! Like science and belief in the supernatural, electronics and "New Age" superstitions about supposed powers of crystals do not mix. No VCS unit that I'm aware of contains a resonator (which is a module sometimes found in even older electronics, that performs the same function as a crystal). Also, you seem to be advocating what we technicians call a "shotgun" approach. Reversing one component and replacing a bunch of others in the hope that one of them might be the bad part, is hardly the right way to go about a repair job. The first steps should be diagnosis -- testing various voltages and signals on the board to narrow down exactly where the problem lies. Only after having a reasonably sound diagnosis, should one begin the treatment phase. Sometimes the diagnostic process itself might involve replacing a component or two (especially when attempting to help an electronics novice by long-distance communication), and occasionally that replacement may in fact fix the unit. But the shotgun approach is generally far less than the optimal solution, especially considering that a novice making a bunch of component replacements could end up doing more harm than good. These are the only sensible ideas from your post, except that there's no zener diode in the color circuit (nor the crystal oscillator circuit either).
  3. I'm registered over there and have posted once or twice, but I never even browse the forums. The only things I go there for are the online guides, and if a Google search leads me there. Lock topics, OK, censor members' inflammatory posts if necessary for the good of the community, fine, but don't just go around deleting entire topics on something of value like a new release of recently unearthed prototypes!
  4. That's got a production RF shield on it. I can't remember ever seeing a prototype or DIY pirate cart board with that. What does a regular CBS board look like? My guess would be that it's the regular release version.
  5. I can't think of any way the RF modulator could fail that would cause intermittent (now permanent) loss of color. TIA chip is a good bet, if it isn't a bad connection somewhere in the color path.
  6. They delete recent threads at DP??? Wow, another reason for me not to be there.
  7. The 7800 does not 'enhance' the sound of 2600 games.
  8. Silkie, the font info wasn't meant for you (though anyone is welcome to use it). It was for Arkhan's friend -- see posts #26 and 28 above.
  9. Are the inserts 6.25 x 6.25 x (thickness) inches, or what is the other (non-6.25 inch) dimension? I used to have access to a hot-wire foam cutter, and could probably get another from the same place, but I think the throat depth was rather small, like 4 inches or so. I could probably make a bigger one, and a jig to cut exactly to the desired thickness. The cut may not be perfectly smooth, might be a little wavy, but it will not be the least bit crumblier or dustier than the foam is naturally.
  10. Scootiecat, there is a place in your profile where you can set your Location. As far as "D'oh level", that's a custom ranking that I think only subscribers, moderators, and possibly people with 5000 or more posts can change. Otherwise, your ranking description (below the row of joystick icons) is pre-programmed, depending on how many posts you have. However, at the top of some members' profiles is a Custom Status message (such as my "Syzygyst") that you can also set in your profile. P.S. on my screen all that profile info appears to the left of each post. Are you mixed up, or is your display different for some reason?
  11. Putting crystals in parallel or series does not change the value as it would for resistors or capacitors. You need to find the correct frequency crystal.
  12. NTSC and PAL-M cartridges for the VCS are the same, but consoles differ (PAL color encoding and NTSC color encoding are very different). Here, NTSC is dying and most TV broadcasts are switching to ATSC (digital). Equipment interconnects are going to either component (RGB) video or HDMI (digital). Composite, S-video and even RF (whether NTSC or ATSC) are going away.
  13. CO10750 is the important part. They can have different suffixes (or no suffix).
  14. AFAIK all Taiwan heavies (probably all Taiwan VCSes) have a "T" pre-printed at the far left end of the serial number box.
  15. I thought Brazil is a PAL-M country, but that looks like an NTSC motherboard (I could be mistaken though, since you didn't show the whole thing). Do you have a multi-standard TV?
  16. Only members who actually visit the Map page and enter their location appear on the map. I'm sure there are way more than four in the Los Angeles vicinity too.
  17. I'm not sure, but I think I might have preferred to lose the bonus round, and keep the tips and dancing girls. It's nice to get a bit of a breather in the middle of a round, not just between rounds.It's hard to say. The C-64 cartridge version had both the bonus round and the tips/girls, but unfortunately they had to cut it from four bar screens down to two. Really? I played the heck out of the C-64 floppy version, and I'm sure it had at least four different bars (cowboys, jocks, punk rockers, aliens).
  18. Regarding the fonts used, the "ATARI" logo is generally accepted to be Hammer Fat, although the "A"s look closer to HoratioD Bold. You could also use SF Atarian System, either spelling it out or using the one from the "@" character, though neither way is 100% accurate either. The large PAC-MAN logo is some version of Bauhaus -- the usual weight Atari used was Demibold, but this looks more like a true bold. There are many clones of the Bauhaus font family; try some of the following: Bahamas Bold, Bahamas CE Bold, BaronBlackDB Normal, Bauhaus Bold, Bauhaus Demi, Bordeaux Heavy. Stay away from Baha and Mumbo; they have slightly distorted letterforms. The italic text is Zapf International Medium Italic. The small PAC-MAN within the italic text is Bauhaus again, but a lighter weight this time. Try Bahamas Normal, Bahamas CE Normal, Bauhaus (Medium, Normal or Regular), Bimini Normal, or Bordeaux Medium. The sans-serif text is Helvetica Regular.
  19. I'm not sure, but I think I might have preferred to lose the bonus round, and keep the tips and dancing girls. It's nice to get a bit of a breather in the middle of a round, not just between rounds.
  20. If you've got a good power adapter and a good regulator (properly installed), you're probably going to waste time and money trying to fix it with a guessing or "shotgun" approach. You'd be better off either just buying another console or having someone who knows what they're doing fix it for you. Black screen or snowy screen can be caused by failure of any of the ICs, or one or more of several other parts.
  21. Local? Well, I wasn't aware we had a lunar colony yet, but I'm only about 400,000 km from there.
  22. Those are what is known as "cold solder" joints. The way to solder properly is to use the iron to heat the parts until they're hot enough to melt the solder, then apply the solder to the parts (not to the iron). Also, the iron needs to be powerful enough for the job, and fully warmed up if it's a low-power iron like a Radio Shack 30 watt pencil (takes at least five minutes). You need to find a scrap circuit board to practice your soldering on before trying to redo that mess. There are lots of soldering tutorials on the web, go find one and get better at it before you damage the board and make it harder to fix. Also, there are many other problems that can cause the symptom you described, from a bad DC adapter to a short circuit on the board to a fried IC (with an internal short circuit) and others. So getting the connections to the voltage regulator soldered properly may not be enough to get your unit working.
  23. Clarkus, whereabouts in L.A. are you? I'm about 25 miles east of downtown, in La Puente (near West Covina). Mitch's Map location looks like it's in Westminster (Orange County), and Wonder007 gives his location as Alhambra -- about half as far from downtown as me, a bit north of due east.
  24. Halloween in a Telesys cart? I wonder if the Starpath "demo" tapes are just the "preview" versions of the games that can be found on their regular release tapes. In any instance, still a very nice find!
  25. Oh, I see that I missed one other gradient: the blue background of the maze. Arkhan, if your MAME-fixing friend agrees to take on this project and needs help identifying or obtaining fonts to simplify fixing the texts, let me know and I'll see what I can come up with.
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