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About Quickie

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  1. Hi, I am looking for the following Atari ST keycaps: Esc Shift and from the numeric keypad these keycaps: 0 . Enter 3 - Would be also interested in buying a spare ST keyboard if it does have all the listed keys. Prefered continental europe sellers to avoid taxes and higher shipping cost. Thanks
  2. Hi @rj1307, Thanks for producing such a wonderful piece of hardware. I had trusted in your AgaCart since day one and the colleagues I recommended it and bought it have been always deleighted. Thanks for contributing to the Atari Lynx community so brilliantly!
  3. Hopefully we would have new replacements for the Mikey an Suzy ICs in the future, but I refered that I had spare NOS original ICs of both (as you can see in the pic I attached, those are Atari mfd). Unfortunately I don't have more, and the provider I bought them isn't in business anymore
  4. Hi, I did not use other Lynx as donor, I did have spare custom ICs for repairs. Cheers
  5. Hi, Thanks to Wyluli Wolf for selling this Lynx II. Was quite challenging to revive it. Yesterday arrived the missing component it lacked (a 80 mH coil) and I was able to dedicate some time to fix it. In resume: - Removed the 5V mod (repaired battery cut trace, placed the diodes in their original location + added a new one, added the mentioned coil and 3 removed capacitors). - Did the powerup refresh (zener, r74 and mosfet) After that the Lynx II powered up, but the power led was very dim and had no picture/audio and constant full backlight. Replaced Suzy, Mikey and the two Dram ICs and...the console came back to life!:
  6. Finally! I did find out what was going on : On citrus3000psi PCB BOM, the resistor marked as "R25", which is connected to LM1881 pin 1 is marked as "680K", whereas on hackaday's 256byteram this is marked as R24 with a "680R" value. What it happened was that the resistor value was so high that completely attenuated the sync signal output. Changed it for a 680R and I can confirm that now works flawlessly Cheers!
  7. Hi all, I hope that I will be able to check components and traces located between LM1881N pin 1 and the sync pad tomorrow, and as @ChildOfCv states, most probably one of the resistor edges could not be properly solded to the pad. If that is the case I expect to get rid of the current interference that is being presented. @Papalapa The results on the Coleco are very promising, so, having in mind that the source of inspiration of this particular board was originally designed for a Ti-99/4a I have no doubt that it will work as well Don't worry, I'll keep you posted in VdR
  8. Weeell!! I did some try/catch and soldered directly the sync pin of the RGB DIN connector to the LM1881N pin 1. This is what I get: It's stable, altough there is some noise... this is almost there!
  9. Hello, Apologies for not being able to update this earlier, but it has been impossible Well, I had some time to do the testing, and although I guess that I would have done something bad, there is something interesting: - This is the screenshot of the Sync pad of the RGB PCB on the Oscilloscope with AutoSet scale: The same wave from the same pad of the RGB PCB , but this time with the scale defined after adjusting the probe and with measured data (seems that there is no signal there...): And finally I captured the signal on the LM1181 pin 1 (Sync Output), which looks completely different: Alexis, the creator of the TMS9929A RGB and Component adapter of Hackaday (Kudos for him!) has gently advised me that perhaps removing the 82 ohm resistor on the Csync output could enlarge the sync pulses and make them recognizable for my TV. To be sincere I don't know if after the data I provided that explains it all, but I'll give a try...
  10. Hi, I insulated the 4066 in this unappropiate package with hot glue from the passive components underneath. Good point I can recheck there if there might be some undesired contact underneath. I do have an oscilloscope. I was advised that I could check the sync wave on the LM1881 and on the Sync pad. For me that seems like a good action plan Let me grab some time and I post both results. Regards
  11. Well, I've tried your suggestion, however that trace is so tinny and so near to a resistor that I traced both sides of it (U4:2 to U1:3) and cutted it on the base of U4 pin 2, where there is somo more space, soldered the 0.1uF cap on the U4 pin 2 leg and soldered a wire on the other end of the 0.1uF cap: Here the pad cutted: And here with the capacitor soldered and wired to U1. Not the best soldering job on the world, but does its job (and there are no shorts): Although it does not work fine yet it seems to present the image more continuously: It's almost there...
  12. Yeah! Big Thanks for your time and help! I will try it asap and post here the result. I remember seeing that project back in the day in Hackaday, but I completly forgot about it and I did not associate it with this.
  13. Hi, I will try to check with detail the PCB I made and the soldering to check that there isn't any short, however when I soldered the components and installed the mod on the PCB I double checked that there wasn't anything unexpected. In regards of the other NTSC board I have one half-done (I miss the resistors and other passive components). But I discontinued it when I realized that it was only valid for NTSC machines. I guess that this is because the TI-99 (and the Colecovision) do use a different VDP on each region: TMS9918A (NTSC) vs TMS9929A (PAL) with their own specs. I thought that, being the PAL RGB mod an untested one perhaps the sync line could require of some extra adjustment by increasing the value of 75Ohm on Sync. In any case I've PM'ed @citrus3000psi to check if he can confirm this. Thanks for your help!
  14. Hi, Thanks for responding. I thought that -5V wasn't needed for anything else than the old RAM ICs. I read on another thread that the -5V could be required for the controllers, but that seemed to be another topic (or at least his author stated afterwards that should work fine without -5V). Since I can't edit again my previous post, here are the pictures (apologies): Update: I replaced the Z80 processor and it seems that the console is not so dead...
  15. Finally had the time to test Citrus' PAL RGB design and my Colecovision refuses to work at first try. This Coleco was an "untested" unit I bought and since I had no power supply I did some work before installing the RGB mod: - I managed to adapt a 12V3A DC transformer inside the case. That feeds a picoATX psu which provides the +5 and +12V. - I did the 4164 RAM Mod as I missed the -5V line (and wanted to ensure that the ram would be OK) And this was the result: Which finally ended in this: And unfortunately what I obtain when powering the console on is an intermitent black screen and sometimes some artifacts like this: In any case I do not consider the RGB mod to be the cuplrit. I am unable to tune the Coleco on the TV via UHF, so there must be something else By the way the voltages were measured and OK, the Z80 /RESET stays high when powering on and the RAM was tested. Regards
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