FlorianD

I bought an ATARI 800 and 810 complete with all manuals and documents (even the invoices) and ATARI Basic Reference Manual, ATARI Assembler. All was 3 hole punched and there was only one binder and one cardboard (file) type binder. Not enough space to hold all. Struggled to get a 3-hole- binder here in Germany -- impossible! Went to Jamaika for holiday with my wife and insisted to go shopping (not what she thought... hehe) and went into a stationary shop and got my binders for 2$ each. Neatly filed away all this 30 year plus stuff in very good condition.

all the keyboard problem finally solved, I am so happy!!!! Absolutely great work!

https://www-alt.akk.org/~flo/competitionpro/comppro.html my collection of Competition Pro's

of the 79 programs, it is impossible to me to make up a list of the top 10. why? I wasn't able at all to thoroughly test them all. Comparing my humble and rather simple "Full House Poker" to gems like "Castle defender", "Another Pong" or other superb examples of programming excellence would be like comparing coal to diamonds. I am absolutely astonished that so much software is still produced after so many years, and I give my unlimited respect to all programmers contributing to this. No matter how "perfect" your software is, it it the spirit that counts. Keep on the good work everyone!

sound like a nice project. what are the requirements, what should the program be capable of? Maybe somebody wants to try to code a POS software. ...and no Oracle, SAP, Dynamics, Agresso compatibility requests please.

my 130XE had similar problems, reseating the connector only helped a short while. In the end i disconnected the keyboard fromthe motherboard, and diligently cleaned the connector. It looked dark grey in the beginning, but after the cleaning it was bright silver again. I used cleaning fluid (that stuff that removes corrosion) for electronics, and completely washed away the leftovers with alcohol afterwards. since then everything stayed OK.

Arrived today via mail. didn't do anything else after coming home from work, but repairing my 1010. And now it works again! Thank you very much, Magic Knight!

"As for the price - a bit too early to say for sure, but i'm opting for $80 +-10% " perfect, I want one please! And willing to pay in advance if needed to fund materials.

very good! I bought one via ebay for my 1010 HK model

any rough estimate on what the price will be? I am at very interested in one. But price could be a limiting factor...

i'd like one with case, please. Hope I am not too late.

finally got hold of 2N3904 and 1N914. Replaced both parts and - voilá, sounds even better now!

I own two ATARI 800 (NTSC) Stamped AW 306011 handwritten AW 212893 3-3 has silver stamp "ATARI 102" on bottom case near back ATARI 800 (PAL) Stamped 052 006421 handwritten CA 10597A 8/31

did anyone vote for Gyruss yet? Love that game!

I still own my 600XL from christmas 1983 and the 1010 from April 1984. And the 1064 from some month later.

my ATARI 600XL (good keyboard) with 64K internal Expansion and Supervideo 2.1, 4 OS (normal, Old OS, QMEG, HyperOS), BASIC Rev. C. Attached is the "Freezer 2011" with RAM-Disk, Old OS, Cart-Emulator. In front sits a nice CRT (a multi mode PAL, SECAM, NTSC1 and NTSC2 monitor), next to it sits my 1050 Speedy TDS and the SIO2USB. And the XMM801 Printer. Competition Pro Joystick (choose any style , I own most of them :-) - I personally prefer the Generation 2 type with microswitches on the stick and blade contacts for the buttons) If 4 Player capability needed (anyone for M.U.L.E.?) an ATARI 800 (with 16 + 32kRAM board) happily joins in and lets the 600 XL take a break.

a RANA 1000 Disk Drive :-) now I own 810 (stock) 1050 with TURBO (B. Engl) 1050 with Speedy TDS 1050 with MEGA Speedy XF551 with HyperOS RANA 1000

1020 Cogwheel repair 0. Before start: I unplugged the power supply unit from the printer and remove all pens 1. On the bottom there are 3 screws (size Philips 2=PH2), remove them and put them aside (these are black and have a thread intended for plastic) 2. Remove the two rubber feet in front, there are another 2 screws (also PH2), remove them also. These have a machine thread and have metal/silver color) 3. Set the printer upright and with the key facing towards you. Gently pull the brown front on the lower end towards you and then remove/unhook it from the upper half (same principle as with 1050 Floppy drives). 4. Now you are able to se the mechanic parts. Frontside right is another black screw (PH2), remove it, set it aside (Note: this one is shorter than the others - don't mix!!). 5. Now take the mechanics parts carefully up, it is still connected by 2 cables: 1 black cable, which you can easily unplug from the pin on the board; and a multicolored flat cable with flat plug. Carefully unplug it from its connector on the board. 6. On the printer mechanics there are two very small cogwheel, one on the left, one on the right. These need to be replaced. Usually they have a crack just between two teeth and now sit loosely on the axle (and because of that the paper forward/backward movement and the revolver head don't work properly any more) 7. Remove the little cogwheels. On the paper side there is a larger, spring loaded cogwheel. Examine it carefully, ideally mark two teeth so you are able to put it back together with the right spring tension. This keeps the slack out of the gears, to assure exact printing when the paper moves backwards and forward. If needed, use a very small flathead screwdriver, insert into the crack and turn. That should finally break them off. 8. the new brazen cogwheels have a slightly to narrow boring. Use a 1.5mm drill bit, but use it with your hands only and give it one turn inside the borehole. You just need to enlarge it a very very tiny bit. 9. press the cogwheels onto the axles. TAKE CARE: don't push the axles into the motors. How? Try it, I have no gold solution. One side went well with using a small plastic hammer on the other side I held the axle with pliers and pushed the wheel by hand. DON'T heat the cogwheels to enlarge them, you will ruin the other cogwheels!!!!! 10. Connect the ribbon cable, then the black cable, set the mechanics into its place, fasten the small black screw, close the housing, insert 3+2 screws, attach rubber feet. 11. now it should work again. Careful people give it a try before fully closing everything. I wish you success when doing it! And the fine print: I am not responsible if you damage your stuff or yourself. This is a description of how i did it.

we had the same problem in Germany while repairing 1020's. Turned out you could use a part others use for mini RC helicopters. The tiny cogwheel is named EA-055-13 has a 1,5mm hole for the shaft and module 0.25M for the teeth 13 teeth see here: http://www.abbuc.de/community/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8059&hilit=1020#p64062 it worked perfectly on my 1020, i changed both cogwheels on the paperdrum-drive and the print-head-drive side. if anybody is interested, I can translate my repair instructions and post them here

@1050: the 400/800 feild service manual can be downloaded at the same website you mentioned. Pages 200... is the list of elements.

the local ABBUC group of Frankfurt/Germany played all the contest games 2 weeks ago. We set up 2 systems and played all evening long, discussing and analysing games. this one got good scores, because of its simplicity and its addictiveness. the bonus levels are a good idea! :-) well done!

it seems the transistor was the culprit. Replaced it with a BC547A (which is a similar type to the 2N3904 as the internet told me). Sounds OK now (meaning: silence when nothing is typed), no noises anymore. Thanks all for helping! F.

thanks for the values/types for the diode and the transistor. I have the field service manual, but only looked on the screen print pages, wasnt aware that there is a full list at the end... will try to change these parts, first need to buy them.

no no, it goes krrrch, psss, krrpt. chrrr. sounds, not the typical key press "blip"

It does the sounds when it is not supposed to. E.g. when I don't type anything and just stare at the blank screen showing "READY" and the cursor sits still under it. The speaker itself seems to be OK, clean, no holes in the membrane, backside shows some magnetism.