DistantStar001

Reconnected! 0 track working. Stepper motor working. Giving me a "BOOT ERROR", ironically, on the diagnostic disk (Loads on the other drive, so I know the disk works). Sea Dragon loads perfectly! So... Progress. I'll figure the rest out later. For now.... VICTORY!!! and thanks!!!! Now the questions are, how to get more software on disk? I plan to build a SIO2PC cable since that seems to be the cheapest option, but I understand you can do it with a DOS PC as well? Also, why won't my 410 rewind??? Loads fine, but won't rewind (or fast-forward apparently)??? Wow! Just realized that this thread has touched on nearly every associated Atari accessory I have.

Retrying now. I did most of these tests last night. Retrying, but this time, it doesn't seem to be reading any more? The stepper motor doesn't seem to be moving the head. Yes. At track 0, it spins continuously, anywhere else, on/off. Excellent! That thing is a serious pain to position! Yes. Connected to J10, and in the correct orientation. Can do. Not so much. Head moves manually. And we have an issue! One of the wires came fee. I'm guessing a loos connection (another bit I had to replace on this thing).

Good to know! Thanks! No movement. Starts to read something, but stops. This seems to be my issue. Damn! I was hoping that the older mechanisms and lack of a 0-track (or so I've been told) would at least make them easier to fix. These 1050s can be a real pain at times. But I might still want one for ascetic reasons though.

Good to know! I haven't done that much, but I'm going to be more careful in the future. Done. One is back and functional, the other... not so much. I think the 0 track has gone out again. I've already replaced it once. It powers up. Spins a bit for a few seconds, then spins again a few seconds later, stops, repeat.... However, the read head doesn't move. Are the 810s more reliable? Looking into these. I've heard of the SIO2SD, but these are new to me. The SIO2PC seems interesting, but what software would I need to make it work? Actually... The RF is pretty good on this!?!? I'm more than a little surprised! Still, the composite is better. I'm going to make an s-video cable for it as well. I also have a "universal cable" as well. Basically, a 5-pin din with 4 RCAs on the other side. I checked, and all are grounded to the center-bottom pin. Co in theory, I could use it to connect to my Commodore 1702? I'll look into that! ?

As far as I can tell. It boots to memo pad! Not sure what use that is (other than confirming the keyboard), but I could do that in BASIC... so??? Yeah, honestly, I have no idea what memo pad is good for. But! I do have a few BASIC carts, along with some games and programs, so I'm good. The joystick ports work, sound, video (RF and composite). And I just received two new old-stock PSUs from Best Electronics to go along with another used one I got from eBay. So now I can hook up my floppy drives (once their working again). I haven't hooked up that many peripherals yet since my 1050s are being temperamental (again). So I have to tinker with them. Not the first time, but so far, they've always come back. At some point I'd like to find a decent 810. I do have a finicky 410... It works, but won't rewind?!? Still haven't figured out what that's about. In any case, all seems good on the 800 front!

It Boots!!!!

Thanks for this! Good to know! Will be looking for a replacement, but curious if there is a particular part you would recommend (or avoid)? Had no idea these could run CP/M! Though the flash based memory seems to be the more useful option. How would I do this? And what software would I need? Side note: My prior knowledge of this computer can best be summed up as it exists. That and that there's supposedly a version of space invaders (or was it galaxian?) floating out there somewhere, but I haven't found it yet. Thanks for this. But see above... Additional question: I've seen a "disk/video interface" unit for the model 100 floating out there in Google images, but I haven't seen a real description of it's purpose or capabilities. What exactly does it do? Would it work for the 102 as well? Is it even worth looking into?

Like the title says, I just got a Tandy 102. It came with a power supply, and as far as I can tell, it's fully functional. Although one of the batteries did leak a little inside the bay. But, thankfully, it didn't get to anything important. Anyway, on to the questions: First, I understand that aside from the AAs in the bay, there is a secondary battery soldered to the board. Should I be worried about that? And what are the chances that it will leak as well? Second, are there any accessories should I be on the lookout for? Disk drives, cables, etc. Third, I have a cassette cable that works for my TRS-80 Models I and III, as well as my CoCos. I believe it should work for this as well. If it does, what are the best software archives? Related: I understand that there is a version of space invaders for this! Where can I find it?!? Lastly, what do you usually do with these? Any fun projects? Games? Tips? Programs?

I'm going to order an authentic Atari PSU from Best Electronics on Monday. I'll probably get a couple of spares for my 1050s. Luckily, it wasn't powered for very long, so hopefully there isn't any damage, but if there is it's good to know that the RAM at least is pretty standard. The other good news is that they also carry all the custom ICs as well. Thanks!

Tried with no luck, sadly. I think that the lack of a power light is a key clue, as last I checked, most LEDs need between 3 and 5 volts to light up. These ones are getting significantly less. The power supply does work, but it's not Atari. It's out put is rated for about 12v DC at 4 amps, center positive. But it's unregulated, so it's more like 17v. Still, that should be fine for a system meant to take an AC supply, and 17v is oddly within speck for an unregulated 9v supply. Also, it's worked fine for both my 1050s. I've even powered a VIC-20 with the thing, and the power specs on the Atari and VIC supplies are nearly identical. Although rectification and regulation are probably very different. I am getting power to the machine with the current PSU, as I am clearly getting a black screen, and I do read voltages on the power board. But they're clearly not right. I honestly didn't think about that, as AC systems tend to be pretty forgiving. I mean, an NES will take just about anything that will fit into its jack. Then again, the C64 PSU is at least partially AC, and those things are notoriously fickle! Maybe the 800 is the similar? Regardless, I did look up an authentic PSU from best electronics, and apparently they're about $15, so I'm probably going to get at least one (probably two) before I test again. Thankfully, if the PSU is the problem, and the voltage at the LEDs are to be believed, then it's been under volting (not over), and even then, for less than a minute of cumulative runtime. I'm still going to go over the capacitors on the power board (extract and test them to make sure their still in speck). I'll post when I have results, and a new PSU! Thanks all! Oh, and if there are any other ideas... Please keep them coming. I really want to get this up and running! Thanks Again ?

I haven't taken it all apart yet, as I only got it home a few hours ago. I'll look over the capacitors, but I didn't see any obvious signs of failure (no bulging or leaking). Still, given the age, it's certainly possible. I knew about that, thanks. It was covered in a few teardown videos I watched shortly after I bought it. It's kind cleaver really. The way the door press down onto a plunger to hit the switch. I love those little engineering touches from back when products were designed to be good, not cheap. Got it! Thanks!!! Will do! Yes. I searched Google as well, but there doesn't seem to be that much for the 800? At least when it comes to black screens. The 800XL has a few, but not so much for the original. Also, the few that I found had woking power lights. So I'm not sure if they had the same problem? Additional Question: Is there a trouble shooting guide specifically for the 800? Or at least something that show me specific test points and expected voltages for the power board, so I don't have to probe blindly?

As the title says, I just got an Atari 800 (not XL or XE) that's giving me a black screen. Over all, it's in pretty good condition. Very clean, both inside and out. No dust, and the only damage appears to be cosmetic (a minor scuff below the left side of the keyboard, a bit of the plastic broke off below the reset button, and the bottom label is partially missing). Interestingly, while it is producing a (black) picture, the power light isn't lighting up. I measured the voltage at the LEDs and am getting -1 volts? Which doesn't seem right. Also, I did remove and clean the memory cards with some deoxit, but that had no effect. Other that, I haven't really done much, as I really don't know much about this machine (or Atari 8-bits in general). I do have an 800XL, but I don't know how much of that transfers. As such, any advice would be very appreciated.

I have the Apple II hardware, but not the software. But in case someone out there has both... How do you want to capture the sound? Do you want it captured directly off the board? (Plug the Apple II sound-out directly into a sound capture device) Or do you have a professional sound studio setup in mind? In which case, I can't help you. If it is the former, then I would suggest using an Apple //c for this, as it has a built in audio-out/headphone jack. It's virtually the same machine, but the //e would probably need (at the very least) a specialized cable made to capture the sound from the speaker pins. Also, Unlike the //c, the //e lacks independent volume control. Either way, I'm not sure what you mean by "high-quality"? These were machines with beep speakers. So the audio output on them is kinda miserable, absent something like a mockingboard.

Thanks for these! I'll have to test them in emulators for the time being, but the Commodore one does shed some potential light on the issue I'm having with the Coco translation.

Thank you for this! I've already downloaded the Bill Crider one and have been working on the Coco translation. So far, all I get is a green screen with a small black backwards L shape in the upper left corner, but no syntax errors! So it's a start! I've never tried BASIC on a PC. But I do have a 486! However, if I'm correct, then the X variable you're using is for a 640X480 screen, so I think tweaking the Y values to [line] LET Y[?]=INT([+-]240*SIN(X[?]*3.14/128))+240, should make the wave fill the entire screen? Also, what are the limits of PCBASIC? AppleSoft seems to have problems with more than four X and Y variables, which has limited the program to two colors. Not a problem on a monochrome screen, but a 486 is a far more capable machine. So is it possible to expand this to use all the colors available, or change line 10 to either cycle through them, or select a color at random? If so, then all I need are the initial forward and reverse waves (lines 20 through 90) and this thing can be cut from 20 lines to 10. Sadly, i don't have a BBC Micro, Amstrad CPC, C128 or MSX machine at the moment... I'm actively looking for them, but have yet to find. However, I do have a ZX Spectrum! Also, just curious, but... What about the ZX81? Agreed. And I have a feeling that the C64, VIC-20 and TRS-80 (Model I or III) will have similar translation issues, since as far as I know, they too lack the designated graphics commands found in AppleSoft. Still, each is a variant of Microsoft BASIC. So it should at least be possible. Also, my experience with TI BASIC (Extended or otherwise) has been very slow. However, I'm not sure if that's the result of the hardware, or the BASIC interpreter Texas Instruments was using? I do have a copy of Simon's BASIC for the C64 that might help? I'm also looking into getting a super expander for my VIC-20.

Eek! Sorry. Typo. This should read: 5 HGR2 10 HCOLOR=3 20 FOR X1=0 TO 279 30 LET Y1=INT(-96*SIN(X1*3.14/56))+96 40 HPLOT X1,Y1 50 NEXT X1 60 FOR X2=279 TO 0 STEP -1 70 LET Y2=INT(96*SIN(X2*3.14/56))+96 80 HPLOT X2,Y1 90 NEXT X2 100 HCOLOR=4 110 FOR X3=0 TO 279 120 LET Y3=INT(-96*SIN(X3*3.14/56))+96 130 HPLOT X3,Y3 140 NEXT X3 150 FOR X4=279 TO 0 STEP -1 160 LET Y4=INT(96*SIN(X4*3.14/56))+96 170 HPLOT X4,Y4 180 NEXT X4 190 GOTO 10 Trying this out. There has always been a bit of a gap between the first and second wave on the right of the screen that I've never been able to close. Yeah, that's the big question. I understand that Commodore BASIC lacks the graphics routines of AppleSoft. I do have a Simon's BASIC cart though. But I'm not sure if that helps. Maybe the Super Expander? I understand that it added graphics routines to the VIC-20. The real hard one (at least for me) will be the TRS-80. My Model III has a high-res card installed, but I have no idea how to use it. I'm not even sure if BASIC can access it (at least the non-disk BASIC in ROM).

This is more of a fun side thing for me, but I've been playing in AppleSoft BASIC and built a simple looping program that draws and redraws sine waves across my screen. That's it. Nothing special. Just having a little fun. But now I'm wondering if I can get this to work in something other than AppleSoft? Maybe Integer? Atari? Commodore? Radio Shack? CoCo? Ti? Heck, even Sinclair! I just want to see how this all translates across various dialects of BASIC. The program is as follows: 5 HGR2 10 HCOLOR=3 20 FOR X1=0 TO 279 30 LET Y1=INT(-96*SIN(X1*3.14/56))+96 40 HPLOT X1,Y1 50 NEXT X1 60 FOR X2=279 TO 0 STEP -1 70 LET Y2=INT(96*SIN(X1*3.14/56))+96 80 HPLOT X2,Y1 90 NEXT X2 100 HCOLOR=4 110 FOR X3=0 TO 279 120 LET Y3=INT(-96*SIN(X1*3.14/56))+96 130 HPLOT X3,Y3 140 NEXT X3 150 FOR X4=279 TO 0 STEP -1 160 LET Y4=INT(96*SIN(X1*3.14/56))+96 170 HPLOT X4,Y4 180 NEXT X4 190 GOTO 10 Obviously, HGR2, HCOLOR, and HPLOT are all AppleSoft specific commands. And the various X ranges and Y values will need to be adjusted to fit the screen resolution of whatever machine... Still, any help steering me in the right direction would be appreciated! Side question: If anyone has any ideas on how to simplify this program in AppleSoft, that too would be useful. I've tried the same lines for X1,Y1 and X2,Y2, plotting them, and changing the color, but I always get an undefined variable error.

Try removing the cap, and spraying some contact cleaner into the switch. Work the switch for 15 to 20 minutes, then power on to see if there is any improvement. If that doesn't work, you can desolder and dismantle the switch. Clean the contacts and test with a multimeter to see if it works. If so, reassemble and solder it back in. Worst case, you will have to replace the switch. But if the rest of the board is working, then your problem is likely limited to the switch. Note: If the key starts repeating after you spray it, with or without you pressing it, that just means that there's some liquid trapped inside the switch. Just turn off computer and keep working the switch. The repeat will stop when the liquid evaporates.

For the contact cleaner, my recommendation is Deoxit. Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=TO2488YRVAZC&keywords=deoxit&qid=1641927279&sprefix=does%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2 For the drive, it really depends on how you connected the second drive. A stock //c will not boot from an external 5 1/4in drive, only a 3 1/2in. This is due to the way the drives are addressed, slot 6, then drive number (same as a ][, ][+, or //e). For the 5 1/4in this means that slot 6, drive 1 is always going to be the internal connector. The external port is addressed as slot 6, drive 2, and thus will not boot. You need to disassemble the external drive and connect the mechanism to the internal ribbon cable to test successfully. If you have already done this, then there are three possible issues that I can think of: 1) The read heads on both drives are bad. This is possible if both drives were stored in the same conditions, but unusual for two drives to suffer the same malfunction. Still, if they do have the same problem, then my bet is on these components. 2) An issue with the analog boards in the drives. Also possible, but like I said, unlikely that both drives would have the same malfunction. However, sometimes failures in different components can cause the same issue. You could swap the boards between the drives to see if there is any change in behavior. 3) An issue with the IWM (Integrated Woz Machine) chip located at D-2 just behind the composite port on the motherboard. It's basically a disk controller card on a chip, and is responsible for all floppy controls. However, the computer does seem to be controlling the drive, as the read head is being sent to track 0 on boot. This would indicate that the chip is working, and they're pretty reliable as well. In any case, the chip appears to be soldered in on your board, so removing it will be a problem (to say nothing of sourcing a replacement). I hate to say it, but if the issue really is related to either 2 or 3, and swapping the analog boards doesn't resolve the problem, then you are going to need soldering skills and equipment to fix them. Or seek replacements. As for the disks. I can't tell you if they're good or bad. Absent any visible signs of wear, mold, or other damage, you would need a working drive to be sure. What I can tell you is that if the internal drive was functioning, the read head would move and you would hear the drive seeking data from the tracks. This isn't happening. The head is just sitting there like there's nothing to read. That tells me that the immediate problem is more likely the drive itself than any particular disk. If you need to, my best suggestion is eBay to source a new drive or other component. Alternatively, you could put a want post in the market place section of this or another Apple or vintage computer related forum. Also, it might benefit you to seek out another //c as well. I'm not saying you should give up on this one. Far from it. This machine has life, and I do think it can be repaired! But having another (especially if it's working) will allow you to swap parts between them, making it much easier to detect bad components. In any case, good luck! And if I can think of any other suggestions I'll post them here.

Try booting the computer without the keyboard to start. Like the //e, most //c's will boot straight to the internal diagnostics when the keyboard is detached. There are a few ROM versions that don't, but it's worth a try. If that doesn't work, you can try reattaching the keyboard and holding down the solid-apple key while powering up (of course that only works if the specified key is working). If you successfully get into diagnostic mode, the computer will flash a series of colored blocks on the screen and beep rapidly, after which it will either display "System OK", repeat the process (both are good), or give a message informing you of a defective component. Regardless, this should give you a baseline of how functional the motherboard is. For the motherboard. I've noticed that the paper on the speaker has completely deteriorated, and there's a mild case of rust on the casing for the voltage regulator. This tells me that there's a possibility that moisture may have gotten to the motherboard as well causing corrosion in the sockets, or on the underside. I would suggest removing the board completely to make sure that there's nothing shorting it. Maybe give it a quick go over with a toothbrush and some 99% rubbing alcohol. Then inspect the board for any damaged solder joints. Reflow or add solder as needed. Same for the keyboard itself. I've resurrected several stubborn mechanical keyboards this way. If the computer has an RF shield underneath, then there will be some sort of insulating barrier between the board and shield. Sometimes this is made of cardboard, which can retain moisture or deteriorate. If this is the case, you can fashion a new barrier, or just discard the RF shield altogether. Also, try reseating the socketed IC's. I would spray a little contact cleaner (DeOx-it is best) in them. I would concentrate my attention on the keyboard encoder, and spray some contact cleaner into the keyboard connector as well. As for the drive, I fear you may have a bad read-head. You can try cleaning it again with some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, however, if the drive were detecting a disk at all, you should be getting a message saying something along the lines of "Not a boot disk" or "Disk error". At the very least, the head should move indicating that it's finding or trying to read data. Instead it's just spinning for a minute and then stopping, which is typical behavior when the drive is empty. Depending on the external drive you have, it may be possible to connect it directly to the internal drive connector on the motherboard (but you will need a longer ribbon cable to do this). If you have the external drive that matches the //c (scroll down on this link and you'll see it: https://apple2history.org/history/ah09/), then the mechanisms are interchangeable. You can just take that drive apart and install it directly in your //c (at least until you get a replacement drive). Honestly, if the read-head is bad, then it might be easier to replace the entire drive than source a new head. In any case, I hope this helps. At the very least, it should help narrow down your problems. Best of luck!

I have an APV TV Fun 402 with no power supply. Supposedly, it powers on but won't stay on. I went over the board and found a few questionable solder joints, and I can tell that I'm not the first to go inside. At the moment, however, I have another problem. I don't have an AC-adapter. All I know is that it's a barrel jack with the same diameter as an NES (no I did not plug that into power) and that it's center positive. I tried Googling an image and it seems to be 7.5v, but is that regulated? If not, then voltage could have been much higher (or lower). Honestly, I haven't even figured out if the has voltage regulation or not. Basically, I have two questions. First, is voltage regulation on the board or the PSU? And second, if it is the board (and the original was unregulated), then I have a reliable 9v DC center positive brick and I want to know if it's safe?

Thanks for this! Although I'm still working out how to create separate loops (I'm not very good with programing, and I don't have a manual). But for the moment, I think I can set my bar a little lower to achieve a similar effect. Since "HPLOT X,0 TO X,191" draws a vertical line, is it possible to make that line thicker and black, and get it to move across my screen through the sine wave? Essentially, give the illusion that the computer is continuously redrawing the wave? Or am I getting into sprite territory that the Apple II doesn't have? Even if it only fills the screen, I could set another wave to dray through it. Whipe the screen white, then draw a black wave, whipe black, white wave, repeat?

I tweaked this program from something I saw on the 8-bit Guy. Managed to get the wave to fill most of the screen, repeat, and end where it begins on the screen. However, I was wondering if I could get it to scroll horizontally across the screen? or draw from right to left? I don't know, I'm just playing with BASIC and wanted some pointers. Program listing: 5 HGR 10 HCOLOR=3 20 FOR X=0 TO 278 30 LET Y=INT(-65*SIN(X*3.14/28))+70 40 HPLOT X,Y 50 NEXT X 60 GOTO 5

Possibly fixed! The 74LS195 at C2 was in backward and I didn't notice it. Swapped it out (as turning it around revealed that it was fried) and so far the computer has come back to life! Also., the keyboard seems to be fully functional as well!

OK, So good news! The PSU is fixed and giving out good voltages! Also, the keyboard is working to the best of my knowledge. Bad news. The motherboard is giving me no beep and no video?