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About sethbramwell

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  1. I have some gamepads on hand but i know the ones you mean. They are great for custom controller projects.
  2. So I remapped the controller in retropie to control the retropie functions. That did the trick! Everything still works with the emulators as they should. It just means that when I use something like the ti-99 4A emulator I will have to plug in a Gamepad to get me there but that's no big deal to me. Thanks everyone!
  3. Thanks everyone! I know about the keyboard mapping, but I have a few issues: First off, there are emulators such as the TI-994a that need a full keyboard for some things. If I change keyboard settings (as far as I can tell) they are not unique to "that" keyboard but are used for every USB keyboard. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this. Second, I'm worried that the buttons as they are, if made to act as Retropie controls, will interfere with games. For instance, if I make the green button (currently F1 for pause) the start button for retropie functions, will it still behave as it should in the Intellivision emulator, or will the retropie function override it? I suppose I can just play around with the settings and see what I can come up with. If worse comes to worse I can always remap a keyboard to the other settings if need be.
  4. Just wanted to share this for discussion/feedback. I've picked up a real Intellvision since, but I had this project in the works for a while and recently finished. I hacked the encoder from a USB keyboard to build an arcade style stick for the Intellivison (jzintv) and ColecoVision (CoolCV) emulators within Retropie. I designed it to work with the default controls in jzintv, and retroactively recoded the controller config file for CoolCV to work with it. One of my primary goals with this project was to make it completely out of parts I had on hand. I actually succeeded on this point in the end. I realize that the numeric keypad layout is incorrect. This was the result of a failed attempt to use a phone style keypad (the remnant of which can be seen in the wiring slot near the bottom of the controller). The three black arcade buttons act as the side buttons. I consolidated the top side buttons to one button as they both serve the same purpose. The two small green buttons act as a pause button and as a button to exit the emulators. If I eventually revise it, I plan to make the controller connections using CAT6 cable and keystone connectors for simplicity's sake and add A, B, start, and select buttons on the side to make it fully compatible with Retropie. As it stands now, a standard gamepad also needs to be connected to fully navigate Retropie.
  5. I understand that one. Seems all my local thrifts price older games through the roof. My best find in that regard was a bunch of 2600 games that turned up loose at my goodwill by the pound center. Less than five dollars for all of them. One other guy and I were digging competitively for them, lol. Thankfully he was at least nice about it.
  6. I grew up with a TI-994a computer (my father's) for all my 80's gaming. As I've aged, I've found more of an appreciation for retro gaming. Most of this has been through Retropie and emulation. I wanted to get my hands on a real intellivision for the experience of using the proper controllers. I tried the flashback, but one of my favorite games (Bomb Squad) ran too fast on it. I finally snagged one with a missing controller and an intellivoice on eBay for about 40 in total. I probably could have done better had I waited but I was getting impatient. I'm also a certified thrift store junkie and Intellivison is one of the few systems I have never seen in one (and this is from someone who's found multiple Odyssey 2's, an Odyssey 1, and a Virtual boy at my Goodwill Clearance center just to name the rarer ones I've come across.
  7. Just an update for anyone who is interested, I actually found a much more recent CRT that one of my neighbors was throwing away, complete with remote. I set it up and it works beautifully with the 2600. The recapping kit did come in the mail so I may do that at some point down the line just for the experience oh, nothing seems to be working very well!
  8. Yes it does. I haven't seen one like this since I was a kid. Thanks, I think I'm chalking this up to the screw terminals (I did hit them with contact cleaner and got some grime off but it did not seem to do much good) and the age of the TV. I cleaned the RF Jack as thoroughly as I could and now the picture comes in clear (slightly blurred on the edges but not bad at all) on my modern LCD TV. There's still a fair amount of snow on the old one.
  9. Thanks again. I picked up a Monster Video Cable from Goodwill today that is a lot shorter and seems to give a somewhat better signal. I tried the coax cable too with no luck. No switchbox, but unfortunately no coaxial input either. I'm stuck with just the screw terminals. I have an adapter somewhat Jerry rigged, but I'm waiting for a better one to come in the mail. Since I was a bit limited on my choice of wires to connect the adapter to the screw terminals, I'm wondering how much interference is from the TV itself. I'll definitely try out an RF Choke. Thanks again for all the input!
  10. Thanks! I am currently using a component video cable for the RC connection. It's long as hell but gives the best picture I've gotten yet. That being said, it did not occur to me to clean the rca connectors on the cable. I believe they are pretty clean but I'll try it. I did clean the RCA jack on the jr, but I may give it another go with something to really get inside with de-oxit, perhaps a pipe cleaner. Not familiar with a RF choke snap. Is that the black tubular piece I see on video cables a lot? I always wondered what the purpose was of that, LOL.
  11. Thank you for explaining that! I believe I have a new RCA Jack coming with the cap kit. I think I'll replace that first and see where it gets me. What is the resistor that's circled in the picture? Anything critical to the picture?
  12. Also wondering just because it's a junior. Cheaper model, cheaper parts I'm guessing...
  13. Strange thing is it only does that on the modern tv. I was wondering if it was due to the better picture tech.
  14. Hi All, I recently picked up a 2600 Jr and cleaned it inside and out. I am able to connect it to both my modern LCD TV and a 1970's era CRT, but there is some snow on both TVs. It's slightly worse on the older TV, but I suspect this is due to the fact that it only has screw terminals (no built in coax input) and I have to use an adapter with the RCA to coax adapter. On the modern TV, I can mess with the RF cord (using a single component video cable as it's yielded the best results of any I've tried) and the picture will come in without snow, but only if I hold it. I already checked the RF jack inside and it does not appear to be loose. Research has led me to suspect that it is due to the old capacitors, but I wanted to ask if anyone knew how common it is for them to cause snow on the screen. I ordered a cap kit and will recap regardless, but I want to know (if possible) the likelihood that the caps are the culprit. Thanks!
  15. Thank you, I did download that image as well. I was just concerned because of a pinout diagram that did not seem to match the pinouts listed on the board, but upon closer inspection I think I was reading it upside down. Oops. Thanks again!
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