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About Zitruskeks

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    Space Invader
  1. Some of the 72 in 1 carts don't work with later (usually non-buzz) Vextrex models due to a different bios. At least that's what i've been reading here and there. Dont know if 2023598 is already in the non buzz region, mine is a european 3108xxx model and it is one. If there are no red bodge wires on the board, its a non buzz. Still, on my Veccy some retroelectronik boards with roms that I burned work flawlessly. So might be the cart socket.
  2. The Power board should align quite good without the need to bend or "place" it before putting the case back together. Usually, it sits in plastic guide rails that keep it pointed to the right position. Sure there is flex in the board and especially with the HV Transformer it will move, though. The sound, no image problem could be broken solder joints on the cables that connect the two boards, or even a simple problem with the on/off switch. Its switches 2 circuits, so if one of the internal switches is stuck (which is often the case due to gumming up of the grease in the switch this may be the result.
  3. Got mine yesterday, wasn't able to test it yet, as I am not near my Lynx, but I have to say te card looks sexy. Nice 3D Print quality, too! Thanks!
  4. Wasn't really able to film the wobble with my phone. Did you have any luck in the meantime?
  5. I'd like to buy one. Please add me to the list. Thanks!
  6. Got mine, too! Thanks Richard!
  7. I see what you mean, as said, i'll video my vectrex later this week. I also leveled the DAC offset with an oscilloscope to be as close to 0 volt as it can be, its a bit different on the later vectrex board, as there are now two seperate OP amp ICs instead of the dual one in the standard versions, but I have 0volt on both outputs.
  8. To some extend I have the same issue, fully recapped late non buzz Vectrex, and especially the Focus and Distortion Test is very wobbly, too. Not that much like in your vid maybe and there is no wobbly vector in the integrator test like on your video. I can make a short vid at the end of the coming week, as I am not near my Vectrex atm. Can't really make a comparison to how she behaved before recapping, as I didn't have the test cart then and only brought her up for a short test of minestorm after an initial visual inspection. For me, its especially visible in the test cart and with spinball. Scamble and Minestorm feel ok-ish. I have checked and re-adjusted the HV, was sitting around 5.8KV - will do a fine tune again but i think it might not be the reason for the wobbles. Integrator Caps maybe? Yours is a buzzing Vectrex, so probably still the styrofoam caps on the integrator? Mine has the red foil (?) caps so i left them in place. Or maybe the wobbling of the whole image on the distortion test is normal?! Did you tune the DAC offset yet? EDIT: if i watch this video i see quite the same "wobblyness" as i expecience with my vectrex. So this might actually be normal, but on yours it is way worse.
  9. I'd like to be added to the pre-order queue for a cased version, too. Thanks.
  10. Basically, yes. Of course a NOS has always the benefit of a NOS, like no usual wear and tear. But even if you get a nos console now, at least check and make sure the caps in it are not known for physical leaking. If its really just for long time storage then some caps can be left in to be replaced just before whenever the console shall be used again. In these cases, a recapping now would be not as beneficial, as the new caps will age, too. Probably better than the old ones, but they will still age. So if you are 100% sure you just want to store something for the next 30 years than replacing a cap that "just" will silently die and not damage anything else physically by doing so can just stay until the machine will be switched on again. But some caps just HAVE to go NOW. They are eating your boards away, and they do it for some years already. Just compare it to the really old stuff, like old tube gear, like radios or oscilloscopes. If you get one now, you DON'T turn it on without checking and often replacing at least some of the caps regardless of well used or NOS. If you do, you can and most probably will kill components as certain types of caps are known to leak DC and act like a resistor.
  11. Electrolytic Caps can also dry out over time, even when not used. This changes the characteristics of a cap, even if no visible leakage (actual wet material oozing out) occurs, then begin to electrical leak - which means that they begin to conduct DC, too, changing them to behave more and more like resistors, shorting out circuits. So even having new old stock units just sit in the shelf will in no way help. I had an C64 bought back in the days when they where on clearance on one of the big german mail order houses as a spare for my old one, and it just sat in darkness for all these years and some of the caps where gone as I tested it this summer. Actually the colour ram was gone, too. It might even died the moment I tested the system - on a newly built "Greisis" PSU. My Amiga 600 also had really nice looking caps (some of the better eBay scores, just one tiny slightly dull solder point was to be seen on the audio caps where they stared leaking a bit) and it was dead until I recapped it with new high quality SMD electrolytics (did not wanted to go the ceramic way). Here is a thread of a NOS Amiga 1200 not working (probably the caps, too). Especially the caps of some systems like the Amiga 600, 1200 and CD32, the ones in the Sega Game Gear etc are time bombs. Regardless of well used machines or shelf queens. They HAVE to be replaced now to avoid serious board damage. The caps of the Vectrex don't seem to be as prone to physical leakage, but nonetheless to electrical leakage. So a shelf queen Vectrex is in far less danger of destroying itself by etching its board traces away, but it might need a recap to become fully functional, with non warping vectors and all. All in all personally I would not spent the extra money for (near) NOS systems just to hope the caps behave nicely, as they won't. Just time alone will kill them electrically, and some of them are prone to kill your boards as they puke out their innards, too. I fully recapped my Vectrex (late EU non buzz model). It was working and didn't have obvious problems (as warping vectors etc) but now I can be assured that the chances of a bad cap killing it is drastically lowered and everything behaves like intended. I know there a very different opinions of not changing caps until you see a problem, but regarding to electrolytics, I like the shotgun approach. I see one, I change one. Costs me some cents and a Minute. And as some systems can run without caps (as Amigas can) waiting for an actual sign can mean waiting too long.
  12. Great Info! Thanks. Then I probably won't bent them pins. A thorough cleaning with contact cleaner (Teslanol T6 Tuner Spray, not the ultra agressive stuff) and some IPA have solved any contact isses for now anyway.
  13. That's what I thought, but then, the engineers could have forseen such a problem and put the 5 Volt opposite to an unused pin, or 2 5 volts vice versa so that shorting them would do nothing.
  14. If I would bend the pins of a genesis cartridge slot to restore their springyness and some pins they would actually touch the oppisite pin after that, and then I would accidentallypower on the genesis without a cartridge inserted - would it hurt the genesis? Sorry for the lot of "ifs" but especially the slot type with the slotted pins (like this one http://www.8-bitcentral.com/images/miscellaneous/genesisClassic/cartSlot.jpg) has very little space between opposite pins so theoretically there could be a short with no card in it.
  15. Vectrex? Check CX-80? Check Cartdrige PCB? Check Some old Eproms? Check Eprommer? Check I totally have to try these hacked games!
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