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Lastic

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About Lastic

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    Antwerp, Belgium

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  1. In order not to ruin 1030XEfm version 2.0 , I decided to cutout my previous topcase to have an idea of how things would look. This is the 1.0 topcase in the pictures not the final one in the previous pictures. The idea is to use 2 ST eject buttons as buttons for the trackdisplay drive-cycle and memory preset button. I would situate them next to each other aligned with the Help button and label edge. The 2 LEDs which provide drive activity and storing your preset feedback would go above the reset button where I would place a bicolor LED under the transparent power-LED insert of this topcase. @Mq. I would need the 2 buttons to be next each other, can I transplant them using wires , you think ?
  2. Yep 1030XEfm is a hybrid between an 130XE with an 1040STfm. As stated by Jon , my machine has a internal 3,5" drive , U1MB memory expansion, SIO2MIDI (where the TV modulator used to be) so the choice of the label was also hybrid. Since space was an issue and the machine already having an Sophia DVI installed, Jon did a miracle job of removing the modulator and putting the SIO2MIDI PCB in that exact spot. So the m now stands for MIDI ( thread here https://atariage.com/forums/topic/291928-crazy-idea-or-not/page/6/#comments )
  3. A big thankyou to @R0ger. My package arrived today. Everything arrived with no broken parts, the packaging was done so good it reminded me (being half German) of the Advent calendars where you have to open a flap to reveal a toy or a chocolate. I can now use these to further prepare/complete the install of my TrackDisplay buttons and decide what to do with my floppy cutout.
  4. Just as information PAL 130XE with U1MB, Stock RAM config, HSIO drivers, SIO2SD, 20 seconds for the red line to show, 56 sec in total to get to the PoP screen. And I prefer tapes so my patience runs up to 16 minutes
  5. I bought these from Drakon over on atari.org.pl
  6. And since it's freezing outside and my back hurts too much to do something meaningfull ( learn Assembler and digest FujiNet source-code) , I decided to continue inside. Using an angled iron I was able to quickly file the bottom of the cutout knowing I would need a few more mm to have a floppy clear it. So after 2 hours and a half of filling and checking , the rough draft is here : The eject button came out a bit ugly , every corner is still square not rounded yet . I can insert a disk but have to use a pencil to push it the final millimeter , I will probably have to file more on the top middle so my finger can pass to push the disk. Vice-versa , ejecting a floppy , I also have to pull it out so might have to carefully file top and bottom of the cutout further so it passes. The drive LED is difficult to see but I can't remove much around that area without risking the bottom of the side breaking or falling off. Will think about a better solution ( remove the little plastic sitting before it , desoldering it and moving it somewhere else ???) But the cover fits perfectly so on to the final chapter, the track display buttons. @R0ger if you can tell me how much I owe you for the ST eject buttons and to ship/mail them to Belgium, let me know, I could start to use them. Thanks again once more for printing them. Once the track display buttons are installed, all wiring will be fixed in place and the case can be screwed together with the 3 bottom screws . One more thing, the SIO2MIDI LED , still haven't figured out a place for it ...
  7. And another hour of filing yesterday but it is simply too cold to be doing this outside. The goal was to use the filed down part from the previous pictures to create a view window so I know that I'm filing at the correct height and size of the gap. Also now I can insert a file to move sideways. The topcover now fits perfectly, the drive is sandwiched between pylons and the edge of the keyboard. I'm using a floppy with a removed bezel , the second picture is with the disk not inserted completely . The disk is pushing against the inside of the topcase at the same height it would be when you insert it from the outside. This gives me a better indication of the cutout before you push the diskette down into the drive where it sinks down a bit. Thinking about using an angled iron to clamp down so I can't file too much downwards. Babysteps ...
  8. Next step the cutout for the floppy. Since I have a loose bezel from a floppydrive, I can use it to draft the cutout.
  9. Astonishing work ! Here I am still trying to make sense of test #7 And here we were a week ago doing AT commands on an ESP82xx
  10. YEEESSS I thought I had tried this with Vin disconnected, powered via USB but I guess my timing was off. Although this is still on internal LAN and with the debugging still on , slow WOW. Thanks a gazillion times for guiding me thru this and your patience. For thrills I copied REHARDEN.ATR (92K) Reharden Demo by HARD to TNFS and it took whopping 3 minutes 9 seconds to load with debugging on I should take a selfie of the smile on my face seeing a demo boot copied over the network , we're almost TFTPBOOT/PXEBOOTing . Turned off debugging, ran the same test, REHARDEN.ATR (92K) , booted at 1 minute 2 seconds. Now on to the next step ,connect NodeMCU to iPhone tethering , run a TNFSD on my server here at home and connect to it via Internet aka WAN. Then dissect the code.
  11. @mozzwald well thanks once again for your time, at least I got a bit further. I changed the Serial.begin() to 19200 as you suggested. And connecting GPIO2 (TX) to RX on the USB Serial adapter did the trick in regards to serial debugging. NodeMCU is the only SIO device connected to the Atari. With the Atari powered UP , same result nothing happens, no serial debug, no TNFSD logging. There is no pulldown resistor or anything between my NodeMCU connections and the SIO port, everything is directly connected With the Atari powered OFF , and powering the NodeMCU via MicroUSB whilst using another USB/Serial for the debugging I get TNFSD logging and the following serial debug output [email protected]:~$ picocom --b 19200 /dev/tty.usbserial-AL02YC1Y picocom v1.8 port is : /dev/tty.usbserial-AL02YC1Y flowcontrol : none baudrate is : 19200 parity is : none databits are : 8 escape is : C-a local echo is : no noinit is : no noreset is : no nolock is : no send_cmd is : sz -vv receive_cmd is : rz -vv imap is : omap is : emap is : crcrlf,delbs, Terminal ready ?bCbZ???nK??!bB'??b??Rkb*?!?[^??? #AtariWifi Test Program #7 started Mounting / from 192.168.1.132 Req Packet: 0 0 0 0 1 0 2F 0 0 0 Resp Packet: A74100001E83 Successful, Session ID: A741 Opening /autorun.atr... Req packet: A7 41 1 29 1 0 0 0 2F 61 75 74 6F 72 75 6E 2E 61 74 72 0 0 0 Resp packet: A7 41 1 29 0 0 Successful, file descriptor: #0
  12. One thing I found that enables me to read the boot message is setting both the serial monitor speed to 74880 and using this command in the sketch Serial.begin(74880); I've enabled the serial debug on GPIO2 but still no avail , no messages in TNFSD nor on on the serial debug. I tried an 130XE instead of an 800XE thinking it might be machine related, no chance. Booting with OPTION pressed, just gives me the self-test screen. Only way I see something in TNFSD is when hooking up the NodeMCU to my laptop using it's USB port. I thought I missed a step so I double-checked the manual and initialized the SPIFFS file system , but no luck neither. At this point I feel like that I should stop bothering you guys and just let you continue with your amazing work, clearly Arduino/ESP is not meant to be my cup of tea.
  13. So no NodeMCU today but went to my parents house since they have a bigger terrace and a workbench ! After a good 2-3 hours of filing and remeasuring I'm happy on the progress and decided not to push my luck. \ Track Display PCB is now aligned with the corner of the top gril , Atari badge and power led. I had to file a little of the pylon but it is actually squeezing the trackdisplay PCB in place so no glue needed ( and removable if necessary ) Then I decided to file the inside of the righthandside where the floppy touches the topcover. What I wanted to achieve today was that the topcover already fits over the floppydrive (which is aligned with the bottom case ). This makes it easier for me to make the cutout for where the floppy enters the drive since I have better idea on the inside where the floppy is situated. An interesting win situation is that it was filed up to the point that the plastic became transparent and guess what sits behind it at exactly that spot ? Yes the floppy LED shines thru the thin transparent part, that's one less on the how to solve this list . The above pictures of the floppy LED are on a normal drive where the LED sits behind a plastic also in the bezel. This is a picture of my spare floppydrive whose bezel broke off so the LED sits free ( so I might remove the little plastic in the non-broken bezel floppydrive ) That's all for today, next endeavor , the actual cutout which will be of this type : ______ _____| |_____ |_________________| or _______ ____/ /_____ /________________/ ?
  14. It is the latest code, I just double-checked. Powered via USB whilst connected to SIO , nothing happens. The only output I get on TNFSD is that line I posted when I connect the NodeMCU via USB to my laptop. I'll reset my NodeMCU tomorrow to factory settings to be sure that nothing is lingering on it. Since the serial monitor is also spitting out gibberish in the Arduino IDE, that might be the quickest solution to start troubleshooting again.
  15. Currently trying to do TNFS on LAN , I can see that the ESP gets an IP address via DHCP and I see a log in the TNFSD window Cli: 192.168.1.251 Session: 0 : Freeing existing session but only if I connect the NodeMCU via USB only to my laptop. The serial monitor in the Arduino IDE also doesn't work for me when uploading the INO file, at any baudrate it just spits out gibberish and there is a Java error in the bottom error messages screen whenever I change my baudrate. Connected to my 800XE, nothing happens, no DHCP, no TNFS logging, with or without option. Any clues what I'm doing wrong ? Should I maybe try power the NodeMCU only via USB (so no Vin connected to the 800XE) whilst making all the other connections to the SIO on 800XE ?
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