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About Divarin

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    Space Invader

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  1. The 6 switch model has sold. I've reduced the price on the 4-switch models to $75 each.
  2. I'm selling three Atari 2600 VCS's: 4 switch Sears Tele-Games model: includes 2 joysticks, pair of paddles, and 5 games of your choice (see listing below) (Sold) 4 switch woody model: includes 2 joysticks, pair of paddles, and 5 games of your choice (see listing below) (Sold) 6 switch woody model: includes 2 joysticks, 5 games of your choice (see listing below), and at no extra cost a TV plug&play console. All have been recently refurbished, are clean and 100% working, deoxidized the contacts in the joysticks and the pots in the paddles as well as the switches on the consoles. You can see more / buy them on my store at Jaded Chicken: https://www.divarin.net/dcag/items.php?categoryId=13 For shipping outside of the US contact me here as i haven't gotten around to coding international shipping calculation on my store site yet. Asking $75 per set.
  3. Well setting the probe back to 1x definitely seems to have helped. I still can't get the calibration to work but I was able to read the 9volt power supply as expected. Also I tried turning the calibration control on the probe while connected to the 9volts and it didn't seem to do anything. When I get more free time I'll start poking around some chips and see if I can make out actual signals. In the attached images there are "Cal" (with an arrow) labels marked next to the volts/time per cm knobs but the black time knob doesn't turn that far and neither do either of the reds (in-fact the reds don't really move much at all so maybe that's the issue). The signal is the closest thing I can get to a square wave while the probe is put into the calibration port.
  4. it's switchable between 1x and 10x. oh now that I think about it I tried to calibrate with it on 10x but didn't switch it back to 1x when measuring the 9 volt power supply. I'll try that. I wonder if I was supposed to calibrate on 1x as well, the manual that came with the probe says to calibrate on 10x but then again that might be assuming a different type of scope.
  5. This might not be the best forum for this question but I'm throwing it out anyway. I picked up an older oscilloscope, a Hickok model 517 dual trace 15mhz oscilloscope. First I'd like to start with the disclaimer that I know next to nothing about oscilloscopes, never owned one never used one, never been around anyone using one. It didn't have a probe so I ordered a pair of probes off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030KWM30?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I looked for "15mhz probes" but couldn't find any so I took a chance that these would work as well. I'm not able to see a square wave when I stick the probe into the calibration "hole" and I'm not really able to make sense out of anything. As a test I tried just probing a 9volt dc power supply with it set up to 1 volt per cm thinking ... okay if it's working I expect the horizontal line to jump up 9 divisions. It didn't. If I set it to 0.5 volts per cm then the 9 volt power causes it to raise about 1.5 divisions (cm's) Before I give up on this scope can someone let me know if I'm going about this wrong using the wrong probe and if so where I might find a correct probe for this scope or is it more likely that the scope is not working properly? Let me know if there's specific tests I should run to give more useful information. Thanks in advance.
  6. In this case I would like a better looking display. When I got this ST it came with a high-res VGA adapter and that works fine. I figured once I build the low/medium res adapter cable I can see if any of my monitors will support it. So far, no
  7. Thanks this is exactly what I was trying to understand. One of the issues I was having is that the file selector program is very difficult for me to read because my setup I am using low/medium resolution cable which is going through a VGA to composite converter and into a 14" CRT television. Not the most beautiful resolution, I know but my vga monitors don't support the refresh rate needed for this so I can either do this or use a high res/monocrome cable on VGA monitor with no audio but most games need low & medium resolution mode for color. The 80 column mode of the file selector program renders it very difficult to read in this setup. However I think I got it figured out now with your help, thanks!
  8. I'm not really sure what model of gotek I have since it came installed in the ST already. maybe this weekend I'll pull it out, have a good look at it, find a model #, etc... The OLED mod sounds promising.
  9. Recently I acquired a 1040 STF with a Gotek replacement for the floppy drive. Personally I'd rather have a floppy drive and I have a post in the buy/sell/trade forum looking for one. In the meantime I'm trying to figure out how to use this gotek. I've read the docs and they don't seem to be very consistent with how mine works. First off the file selector program that lets you choose the .st file to "mount" on startup doesn't seem to work properly and I don't much care for it anyway so I'm just trying to figure out how to switch from one .st file to another. I put about 23 .st files in the root folder, thinking the order might depend on filename I prepended "000-", "001-", "002-", etc... to the file names. This order also matches the order in which files were added to the USB thumb drive. But when I start up the ST and hit the button on the gotek to advance to a specific number some random .st file is loaded. At this point there only seems to be two ways to use this thing and neither is very convenient: 1) I can either have only one .st file on the thumb drive (or at least in the root folder) which means switching to another disk image involves putting the thumb drive in a PC, moving files around, then back to the gotek 2) I can have all the files in the root folder but then select a number, see what comes up, and write it down for future reference. Am I missing something?
  10. Here's my FDD "hole" Since I don't see a cutout just for the eject button I'm assuming it'd be the large one in the middle.
  11. I'm looking for an Atari ST floppy drive, working. I'm not wanting a PC floppy drive that "will work" in an ST I want an official ST drive that actually fits in the case properly and lines up with the disk eject button hole on the case. I'm sure someone out there has taken out their floppy drive to install a gotek so I'm betting there's some lying around collecting dust. I'm looking to go the other way, I acquired an ST that has a gotek in it already and I'd rather have the stock floppy drive.
  12. I had the same issues when I did a composite mod. I tried removing one, the other, and both resistors and could get it to either be too dark or too bright. I eventually ended up replacing the resistors with tiny potentiometers to get a resistance level that brought the brightness to a good level on my TV. Later though I found out that the image looked different on different TVs so you may want to try that first.
  13. ah that's a closer match than anything I've found. It might work if the wire was soldered in. Thanks.
  14. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  15. Hmm, I don't know. I've used these power supplies on other 2600's a couple of times without any issue but maybe this one has a bad cap or a bad ground or something that makes it more susceptible to noise.
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