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Everything posted by Divarin

  1. The 6 switch model has sold. I've reduced the price on the 4-switch models to $75 each.
  2. I'm selling three Atari 2600 VCS's: 4 switch Sears Tele-Games model: includes 2 joysticks, pair of paddles, and 5 games of your choice (see listing below) (Sold) 4 switch woody model: includes 2 joysticks, pair of paddles, and 5 games of your choice (see listing below) (Sold) 6 switch woody model: includes 2 joysticks, 5 games of your choice (see listing below), and at no extra cost a TV plug&play console. All have been recently refurbished, are clean and 100% working, deoxidized the contacts in the joysticks and the pots in the paddles as well as the switches on the consoles. You can see more / buy them on my store at Jaded Chicken: https://www.divarin.net/dcag/items.php?categoryId=13 For shipping outside of the US contact me here as i haven't gotten around to coding international shipping calculation on my store site yet. Asking $75 per set.
  3. Well setting the probe back to 1x definitely seems to have helped. I still can't get the calibration to work but I was able to read the 9volt power supply as expected. Also I tried turning the calibration control on the probe while connected to the 9volts and it didn't seem to do anything. When I get more free time I'll start poking around some chips and see if I can make out actual signals. In the attached images there are "Cal" (with an arrow) labels marked next to the volts/time per cm knobs but the black time knob doesn't turn that far and neither do either of the reds (in-fact the reds don't really move much at all so maybe that's the issue). The signal is the closest thing I can get to a square wave while the probe is put into the calibration port.
  4. it's switchable between 1x and 10x. oh now that I think about it I tried to calibrate with it on 10x but didn't switch it back to 1x when measuring the 9 volt power supply. I'll try that. I wonder if I was supposed to calibrate on 1x as well, the manual that came with the probe says to calibrate on 10x but then again that might be assuming a different type of scope.
  5. This might not be the best forum for this question but I'm throwing it out anyway. I picked up an older oscilloscope, a Hickok model 517 dual trace 15mhz oscilloscope. First I'd like to start with the disclaimer that I know next to nothing about oscilloscopes, never owned one never used one, never been around anyone using one. It didn't have a probe so I ordered a pair of probes off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030KWM30?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I looked for "15mhz probes" but couldn't find any so I took a chance that these would work as well. I'm not able to see a square wave when I stick the probe into the calibration "hole" and I'm not really able to make sense out of anything. As a test I tried just probing a 9volt dc power supply with it set up to 1 volt per cm thinking ... okay if it's working I expect the horizontal line to jump up 9 divisions. It didn't. If I set it to 0.5 volts per cm then the 9 volt power causes it to raise about 1.5 divisions (cm's) Before I give up on this scope can someone let me know if I'm going about this wrong using the wrong probe and if so where I might find a correct probe for this scope or is it more likely that the scope is not working properly? Let me know if there's specific tests I should run to give more useful information. Thanks in advance.
  6. In this case I would like a better looking display. When I got this ST it came with a high-res VGA adapter and that works fine. I figured once I build the low/medium res adapter cable I can see if any of my monitors will support it. So far, no
  7. Thanks this is exactly what I was trying to understand. One of the issues I was having is that the file selector program is very difficult for me to read because my setup I am using low/medium resolution cable which is going through a VGA to composite converter and into a 14" CRT television. Not the most beautiful resolution, I know but my vga monitors don't support the refresh rate needed for this so I can either do this or use a high res/monocrome cable on VGA monitor with no audio but most games need low & medium resolution mode for color. The 80 column mode of the file selector program renders it very difficult to read in this setup. However I think I got it figured out now with your help, thanks!
  8. I'm not really sure what model of gotek I have since it came installed in the ST already. maybe this weekend I'll pull it out, have a good look at it, find a model #, etc... The OLED mod sounds promising.
  9. Recently I acquired a 1040 STF with a Gotek replacement for the floppy drive. Personally I'd rather have a floppy drive and I have a post in the buy/sell/trade forum looking for one. In the meantime I'm trying to figure out how to use this gotek. I've read the docs and they don't seem to be very consistent with how mine works. First off the file selector program that lets you choose the .st file to "mount" on startup doesn't seem to work properly and I don't much care for it anyway so I'm just trying to figure out how to switch from one .st file to another. I put about 23 .st files in the root folder, thinking the order might depend on filename I prepended "000-", "001-", "002-", etc... to the file names. This order also matches the order in which files were added to the USB thumb drive. But when I start up the ST and hit the button on the gotek to advance to a specific number some random .st file is loaded. At this point there only seems to be two ways to use this thing and neither is very convenient: 1) I can either have only one .st file on the thumb drive (or at least in the root folder) which means switching to another disk image involves putting the thumb drive in a PC, moving files around, then back to the gotek 2) I can have all the files in the root folder but then select a number, see what comes up, and write it down for future reference. Am I missing something?
  10. Here's my FDD "hole" Since I don't see a cutout just for the eject button I'm assuming it'd be the large one in the middle.
  11. I'm looking for an Atari ST floppy drive, working. I'm not wanting a PC floppy drive that "will work" in an ST I want an official ST drive that actually fits in the case properly and lines up with the disk eject button hole on the case. I'm sure someone out there has taken out their floppy drive to install a gotek so I'm betting there's some lying around collecting dust. I'm looking to go the other way, I acquired an ST that has a gotek in it already and I'd rather have the stock floppy drive.
  12. I had the same issues when I did a composite mod. I tried removing one, the other, and both resistors and could get it to either be too dark or too bright. I eventually ended up replacing the resistors with tiny potentiometers to get a resistance level that brought the brightness to a good level on my TV. Later though I found out that the image looked different on different TVs so you may want to try that first.
  13. ah that's a closer match than anything I've found. It might work if the wire was soldered in. Thanks.
  14. Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
  15. Hmm, I don't know. I've used these power supplies on other 2600's a couple of times without any issue but maybe this one has a bad cap or a bad ground or something that makes it more susceptible to noise.
  16. Hi, I'm working on refurbishing a 4 switch woody Atari 2600. It has a snapped-off power switch (the plastic part of the switch is broken off). I have a replacement for the metal part of the switch the only thing I need is the plastic. I could pick up a replacement but the library downtown has a 3d printer I can use for pretty cheap provided I can come up with the 3d model in STL format. Is there any existing models such as this? Before I go trying to make my own.
  17. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Power-Supply-DC-9V-Adaptor-Plug-Pack-for-ATARI-2600-Console-Charger-US-Plug/192439401874
  18. Ah okay thanks. So I got a lot of 10 of these power supplies, I'd like to be able to use them on 2600's as I refurbish them (if I pick up one that doesn't have a power supply) maybe I can build a small filtering circuit or something. Or chuck them and pick up some quality power supplies. If I could fix the dark composite mod issue then this 2600 can have a second life.
  19. Right an original Atari power supply. So is it normal for those to put out 14v when not under a load? I've never measured those before.
  20. Lohe, yeah I did try that but it didn't help So I have an update. I had given up and when I started the refurb on the 2nd unit I decided to use the power supply it came with (an original) rather than one of my new ones which I had ordered from china. Since 2600 #1 was still on the bench I decided to check it out with this power supply and it actually looked clean. At one point I had tried the power supply I use in my living room on the 2600 I keep and play with ... still fuzzy. That one is also new but a different brand and a bit more expensive. I measured the voltage coming out of the Chinese ps's and it was a bit over 9volts, pretty steady. Then I measured the voltage coming out of the original power supply and it was like 14! It's labeled as a 9 volt power supply though. The voltage coming out of the voltage regular is unchanged but the voltage going into it is higher. I suspect a capacitor (or something) which is in circuit somewhere before the voltage regulator may be bad but if you pump up the voltage enough the fuzziness goes away. However I may still end up using this as a parts board because the composite mod is really dark. I've read some posts that say to remove one of the resistors and I did which lightened it up a bit but it's still too dark, in fact so dark that if you go into b&w mode you can't see a thing. If I removed both resistors then it's way too bright (and washed out). The strange thing is before, when I was trying to get rid of the fuzziness I noticed it was dark, removed the one resistor, and it looked fine. I can't explain that. Anyway, I don't know if I can blame the power supply 100%, since it is putting out the voltage it says it is but the fact remains that if I use an original Atari power supply the fuzziness is gone.
  21. Well I replaced the voltage regulator again since I had another one around. No change there. I did as you suggested, Lohe, and tried holding a ground wire between various ground points including the ground wire connected to the rca jack to the ground of the voltage regulator and also the rf modulator body and other various ground planes throughout the board. No change there. There seems to be good continuity between all of the various grounds I tested, even between the voltage regulator and the ground of the rca jack. I'm sure if I ordered every cap for the board and replaced every one there's a good chance it would work correctly but I think I'm going to use this as a parts board scavenging switches, the 3 chips, etc to work on other 2600's I already have another one ready to be refurbished which seems to work fine except for a broken power switch. I thought I might put this one on the back burner but knowing myself things put on the back burner tend to stay there and become clutter, plus I'd like to use that composite mod on this other 2600 and there's no practical way to revert this one back to rf. Thanks for trying, everyone.
  22. Agreed. It looks like my wonky power reading previously was due to the new multimeter probes not fitting tightly into my multimeter. After fixing that I went back and measured the voltage between the ground of the voltage regulator and the +5v going out to the composite mod circuit. It looks like a steady 5 volts (5.02-5.03)
  23. I've replaced the voltage regular once, but I do have another spare so I can try again. I am reading a steady 9 volts input and 5 volts output on the regulator right now. There is continuity between the ground of the voltage regulator all the way to the end of the composite cable.
  24. Hmm interestingly I'm only getting 3.5v going to the composite mod, after leaving the unit on for a few minutes it went up to about 4.5 but I didn't notice any change in the fuzzy picture. After a few powercycles I am now reading 5v, still fuzzy
  25. Hmm I didn't test the voltage on the composite mod since this behavior is unchanged from before I did the mod. In fact the reason I decided to do the mod was because I suspected that the fault was in the RF modulator. Since I haven't yet chucked this board into my "for parts" box I'll check out the voltage on the composite mod later today and let you know.
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