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John Stamos Mullet

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About John Stamos Mullet

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  1. about once a year I get the gumption up to read this thread again and see if anything genuinely interesting is going on and pretty much every time I have the same reaction.
  2. That's a pretty sweet option too. I'm happy with mine, but hindsight tells me that one is better.
  3. Yes, but that takes two steps. Shutdown vía ES, then power off at the strip. This does it in one step. It sends a proper shutdown signal to the Pi then powers it off when you flip the switch. And it allows you to use the original A1up power switch without modification to do both steps in one switching.
  4. Website domain name registration is masked by Godaddy, but it was re-upped on 09/2019. Though - that might have been an auto-renew.
  5. Yeah - that's not a clean shutdown for the Pi OS, and can eventually cause corruption or damage to the file system on the SD card.
  6. Did one final upgrade to my Galaga Retropie cab today - added a Mausberry circuit. Works perfect! Previously I was using the Reddit/Icculus GPIO A1up power switch hack, which works, but if there is a dip or surge in power along the outlet your cab is plugged into, the cab would randomly turn on by itself. Less than ideal. The Mausberry circuit fixes that permanently, and is simple to install. Requires a tiny bit of soldering, but it's totally worth it. only thing that is a pain is that the cables that come with it to hook it up to GPIO pins 23 & 24 are too short if you use a mostly enclosed Pi case, like the flirc one that I use. I had to extend the cables a bit by hacking on it the connector cables from the shitty A1up stock buttons, because they have a proper jumper connector on the other end. now I don't have to worry about ghosts turning on my cab randomly!
  7. Don't these use the exact same board as the full size Galaga? Why would he emulation be different?
  8. This^^ Except I got the Sanwa stick & 10 LED buttons for $19 that came with the USB encoder on Amazon, I used Powered PC speakers I already had, and the Trackball was $17. the most expensive part was the lighted MArquee, and it was $50. and I still spent under $300 for the whole cab.
  9. In my experience, Pitfall II is not one of the games affected by this hack/timing circuit. Those games are limited to: Robot Tank, Space Shuttle, The Activision Decathlon, and the Starpath Supercharger. The problem with Pitfall II is that on most production runs, it was made with notorious thin PCB boards, and in most cases with the 7800, it's simply not making good conduct with the pins in the cart port. I would clean the PCB contacts on the Ptifall II cart with isopropyl alcohol, and try it again. The Activision game H.E.R.O. can have this issue as well, as they also used similarly thin PCBs in that one as well. But yes - that hack is helpful, and the only thing it breaks is Dark Chambers for the 2600, which is kind of irrelevant on the 7800, since the 7800 version exists, is not affected by this hack, and is much better.
  10. I followed the ETA prime mod on Youtube. Dude does the best videos. clear and concise. The buttons weren't' glued on mine. The popped right out. Just the joystick was glued. But it really wasn't hard to get it off. flathead screwdriver and some gentle prying did the trick pretty easy. as for the monitor - you will need to get a video driver board that matches your monitor model. Use the serial number sticker from the back monitor to search amazon for the video board. They're usually $29. That was really easy. Get the one with the little add-on board that lets you adjust brightness, etc. On my Pi cab I replaced all the controls for new. It was a Galaga, so it didn't have a Trackball. I added one of those Lighted PS/2 trackballs with a PS/2 to USB adaptor. This was really the most difficult part for me. So I drilled the hole for the Trackball where the original speaker was. That way, I centered the holesaw bit with the center hole of the speaker grille holes. But to get it to fit nicely, and sit high enough on the control panel I did this: 1. Took the top cover off the Track ball enclosure. 2. cut the screw hole legs down to be flush with the top of the bottom half of the trackball enclosure. (used a dremel with a diamond circular bit like an edge grinder) 3. used the dremel with a sanding bit on the bottom of the A1Up control panel to bore out the mdf around the new trackball hole so that the TB encoder wheels fit under the control panel and can spin freely. (they stick out above the bottom half of the trackball enclosure by 1/4 inch with the top removed. )
  11. I have two A1Up cabs now. a Fully modded RPi Galaga with additional fire buttons & trackball, that I got for $150, and a Pac-Man that is semi-Stock, which I got for $150. What I mean by semi-stock is that it is running an A1up board, not a Pi, but the A1Up board was modded by someone at Reddit, so it has a usb port, and he flashed it with Pac-Man, Galaga & Space Invaders, so it runs all of the games from that series. ( also added Lighted marquees and lighted LED buttons to both. The only thing about the stock version of the games that bugs me is the lack of screen smoothing and scanline filters. Otherwise, they look, sound and play just as well as the RPi Modded cab versions. But I have two cabinets for Less than the price of one of the Legends ones.
  12. That has Galaga and Galaxian on the lower Bezel, but no fire button on the control panel.
  13. My original 60Gb Backwards compatible PS3 did the same. I used the heatgun trick on it. First time it worked for like 4 months. Then the next time it lasted like 2 weeks. Then it just died. Got a slim with original firmware of 3.50 and hacked it. Never looked back. Then later, I pulled my old PS2 out of storage and FMCB'ed it and use Open PS2 Loader on it with Network sharing and all the PS1 and PS2 games in the world work on it streaming form my media server PC.
  14. They're taking a loss already on the stores selling these things off for $75 because they can't move the inventory. "Tons" is an overstatement. There's a niche market there, sure. But that's a small window - up the price to $1000 - you're gonna sell a fairly small number of these. As to the quality - like I said - for what it is, it's fine. Sure, if your tossing the thing around like the Samsonite Commercial gorilla, or if you're trying to use one of them as a ladder and stand on it - you're probably going to break it. But under *normal* arcade game use, the cabinet parts themselves will be just fine. If your gaming enthusiasm is making you violently toss these things around to the point where they break, that's not normal use. That's abuse.
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