Cwiiis

This absolutely isn't the case with the PiStorm. The PiStorm is more equivalent of replacing the 68000 with a much faster CPU (let's say a 68040, which I think is an option, though the Pi can likely run a lot faster than any real 040). You have the option of also letting it provide extra RAM and various other extensions (a video card, a sound card, network-backed storage, ROMs). The amount that you replace/augment is up to you, personally I'd probably use it as a way of getting a CPU and RAM boost for productivity tasks and perhaps the small handful of games that actually run almost unplayably slowly on a stock ST(e). No matter what you do, your original RAM, keyboard, joystick/mice, MIDI ports, YM chip, blitter, DMA, FDD controller are all being used, you're still somewhat limited by the bus speed, this isn't at all the same as running an emulator. I think if a person is open-minded enough to consider CPU upgrades, the PiStorm is an interesting proposition - that it uses a Pi makes it no less authentic than any other upgrade that chooses an FPGA as its base instead, it just makes it much cheaper and more accessible. Personally, I'm waiting for BadWolf's STE PiStorm board to reach fruition so I can install one more easily, but I'll definitely be investigating it in the future and hopefully coming on board!

Hard to know what different versions of the PP driver are/do - The readme bundled with the driver says 2006-2021, so probably the same version. Indeed I have a whole partition for the one game as it's quite large (195MB). Crashy with the PP driver, works perfectly with ICD Pro. I also generally get infrequent crashes using the PP driver and have had none since switching to ICD Pro. I don't know if that's indicative of a bug in the PP driver code or an issue with my individual hardware (which seems unlikely given it works perfectly with ICD Pro, but who knows) - but I'd be interested in hearing the results of other people trying ScummST with a similar configuration.

I was using the latest pp driver with this and I'd get occasional bombs (3 or 4, I don't recall, possibly both) and I found out that using ICD Pro instead solved all my problems... Is that expected? I tried multiple SD cards and power supplies, to no avail. The thing that got me experimenting was trying to play Monkey Island 1 with full voice soundtrack using ScummST - what were previously quite rare issues became very frequent, always occurring with scene changes (switching scenes or close-ups during conversations). Any ideas? Not being able to easily write to the SD card from Windows is a bit of a pain... Either way, enjoying my ACSI2STM 🙂

Already bought and been enjoying the game on CPC ages ago, but I'd be interested in an ST(E?) port too

I'd like to buy one of these for an Atari STE in the UK if they're still available?

Ok, I'm an idiot - I put the pad in the 2P port. Everything works fine. Assuming that the 2P port is meant to do those things anyway... I'm leaving this here as an embarrassing indicator of my stupidity and just in case it helps any other idiots like me, but feel free to remove if it's just cluttering up the place Sorry!

Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this! I just fitted a region switch to my Atari Jaguar - mostly without incident, removing the 0 ohm resistor did result in a torn pad, but I soldered the wire to the test point next to it and the switch seems to work fine. The machine boots up fine, the switch works, but my controls now seem a bit messed up... I'm not entirely sure what's happened, but maybe a button is held down? In Hover Strike, I can no longer turn (the reticule moves normally though), A now fires missiles and C switches missile type. The menus all work fine. I can't skip the boot animation either, I assume due to the same reason... I must've done something wrong, but before I open it up again and start rooting around, has anyone experienced anything similar and can give me some hints as to what to look for?

Resoldered today while I was still fresh and awake - all good now, very impressed with the screen. If anything it's a bit too bright! Enjoying my Lynx collection now, just hope I don't run into the power issues...

Turns out D0 and D1 weren't swapped, it was just D0 making contact with D3 - but now I've found out that the buttons on the right side of the screen aren't working, so I'm giving up for the weekend (I reseated the controler cable, to no avail) I have one more working Lynx 2 that I'm pretty tempted to just send off to have re-capped and a new screen fitted so at least I have one good Lynx 2 that I can play games with and another one I can experiment with (and I have an extra board that's completely kaput that I use to practice on). Alternatively, sending both Lynxes off to get sorted out... Anyway, the screen looks great, but I'd caution anyone that isn't particularly handy with a soldering iron to maybe let someone else fit it

Looks like D0 and D1 may have been swapped - now it's fine, but reverts to a broken state (where some dark blue appear green, and various other colours are wrong) when I put the battery compartment in, so I guess D0 is making contact with something (likely D3) when it gets squished a little... I'm going to resolder the data lines tomorrow, I've done a pretty shoddy job...

Just fit my screen and wow, what a difference! Except I have one problem... Red and green are swapped I thought I wired it correct but I guess I must've swapped something - it's a bit awkward to take the screen out and check that, could anyone tell me which two wires I have swapped? As an aside, I think I really overestimated my electronics expertise, next Lynx I'll definitely send off to have done!

Could I be added to the waiting list please? One card for a Lynx II

Ordered a screen replacement from Dragonbox along with a cap/diode/mosfet replacement kit, might as well go the whole hog I thought. Looking forward to trying it out! Got a couple of non-working Lynx 2's as well, will see if I can salvage either of them... Super impressed with everyone else's results and the videos on YouTube, it really helps to highlight how far ahead of its time this hardware was! (and how let down it was by the screen...)