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About nyandeyanen

  • Rank
    Space Invader
  • Birthday 12/31/1974

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  • Interests
    Vintage computers and games
    FPGA design
    Software development
  • Currently Playing
    Blue Lightning (Lynx)
  • Playing Next
    Arc Rise Fantasia (Wii)

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  1. One more bit of advice, which is free and 100% worth the price. Don't take the bait. Ignore it and work on that prototype.
  2. All you need to do for analog sticks is utilize the same interface as the paddles, the Atari already supports 2 paddles on each port. Just utilize the 2 potentiometers as the X and Y axis. The driving controller's software interface could be used to support spinner functionality. If you utilize existing interfaces then the level of friction against your idea is likely to go down. Otherwise I imagine you're going to have to code and document the interface yourself. It'll be interesting to see the prototype when you're done.
  3. If you want to make this happen you're pretty much going to have to ignore the negativity and put together a prototype. I think it's a pretty good idea personally, if you're willing to run with the Apple II paddle to Atari paddle idea I could probably put together a small adapter board after looking into the specifications though you could probably make a better one if you do PCB design professionally. I did this one a few years ago for an early model of the 4play Apple II card so it could work with Genesis gamepads in my exhibit at the Vintage Computer Festival. It would be a bit more complex since I assume the pins will be different and the potentiometer range probably needs to be scaled to what the Atari expects, but it's not entirely out of the realm of an easy implementation.
  4. Not to step into the line of fire, but as I mentioned the Apple II joystick already uses two analog inputs. Perhaps it's worth creating a small adapter which accepts the Apple II joystick input and attaches the two analog paddle inputs and both buttons to the right place on the Atari controller input. There are adapters already in existence for the Apple II which allow you to attach modern controllers, including the one linked to below which works through a mobile phone via bluetooth, or just using the built-in sensors on the phone. It honestly shouldn't be that hard to make an adapter since it's just two potentiometers and two switches on the Apple II side, maybe you'd need to change the reported values a bit to make the Atari happy. It could be used for paddle titles, and anyone interested could make a game which works with it. http://craftymech.com/a2io/
  5. That's how the Apple II joystick was implemented, originally it was two paddles. And also why it had 2 buttons. Since the paddle interface is already there it shouldn't be outside the realm of possibility.
  6. Please add me to the list, a purple cart if possible with both the Pokey and Yamaha chips.
  7. I realize this is a few months old now, but I've been doing a lot of these recently. It couldn't hurt to make sure the wires soldered to the LCD connector aren't bridging with any of their adjacent pads. Pad 9 looks like it might possibly connect with one of its adjacent pads, checking all 6 of the pads (using a multimeter set to resistance with a terminal on both pads is an easy way to check, it shouldn't be 0 unless they're bridged) with their adjacent pads wouldn't hurt. I also had one GG which required swapping out the xtal/oscillator in order to work, but that system had issues to begin with. Do you get sound from an inserted game? That'd at least let you know if the GG is doing anything. If it's just the display then check connectivity between the McWill board and all of the pads they're soldered to on the mainboard to make sure they're good. Presumably you've also recapped the board, those definitely aren't the original caps. You might want to make sure all the new caps are good too if you have access to an ESR and/or LC meter.
  8. Console5 has new McWill GG kits up, a version 3 board with brightness control. I came here looking for any information about it since I'm about to McWill some more Game Gears, perhaps this information will be useful to someone.
  9. You can definitely get a 4:3 picture out of the RetroTink 2X, though your television may have functions which arbitrarily stretch 4:3 input so that may need to be turned off. In my experience it generally looks reasonably good. There are a few output options (at least on the regular model) including a blur function, and color burst can be killed if desired to display in monochrome by abusing the input select function. Again, I'm not sure if that works on the mini. The oranges can be tweaked back to the greens they're supposed to be in Commando using the television's color correction features assuming that isn't too troublesome. You might want to go for the 2X mini, it's slightly less expensive at the loss of the component ports but it also has a case which doesn't expose the boards at all: https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/2x-mini The other main issue out of the box for the 7800 of course is that none of the RetroTink 2X series take RF directly, so you'd need to purchase a separate RF tuner like the one I linked to previously; unless you mod the 7800 as I did. The tuner isn't perfect, interlacing in particular wasn't handled as well as I'd like in games like Galagon, but I was able to use it with an HDMI streaming device until I finally installed the UAV. FWIW, the UAV is a much better solution than the composite mods on ebay. I removed one I'd installed in my first 7800 after installing a UAV in the other. That involved finding some parts that I'd tossed, so I'd recommend skipping the cheap mods and going UAV first. It may cost a bit more up front, but the output is far cleaner on both component and S-Video and the colors are brighter in my experience. The S-Video output pairs perfectly with the RetroTink 2X as well. You do need to wire the audio yourself separately, but that's not hard. If for some reason you're unhappy with the display geometry, finding a way to squeeze it through the Extron RGB-HDMI 300A allows you to modify the size of the X and Y axis arbitrarily. It only takes VGA/RGB as input though. I used a "lagless" HDMI to VGA converter recommended by the OSSC project with the RetroTink 2X's HDMI output to make it work, as at that point you could be inserting lag with the wrong part.
  10. I don't stop in here all the time, but this is a subject I've spent a lot of time/money on over the years and have tried many solutions. The OSSC and RetroTink 2X series do an admirable job given the inputs they have assuming you have input which they can work with. I have two of the original RetroTink 2X units and a Pro unit, both the OSSC and RetroTink work on a per-scanline basis rather than a frame/field so the lag is effectively null in terms of gaming. Your eyes aren't that fast, if they were you wouldn't have been able to enjoy watching a CRT. They're probably faster than the scaler built in your television up to 1080p, although the OSSC may not work well with your television or a video capture card for streaming. It keeps the horizontal resolution the same while increasing the vertical resolution between 2x and 5x, not all televisions accept some (or any) of its modes. My previous "modern" Atari 7800 setup was one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JV6OJ4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It outputs RGB/VGA, which went through the OSSC at first to get to HDMI and later a GBS-Control modded GBS-8220 and an Extron RGB-HDMI 300A. Both are solid solutions, although the latter supports more televisions and gives you a lot more options to change screen geometry/scaling. The Extron can be had for fairly cheap on eBay. I happen to like the simulated scanlines from the GBS-Control mod better than those from the OSSC regardless of how the OSSC was set up. I still use it with all consoles from which I can get component output, either natively or with HD Retrovision cables. I eventually modded both of my 7800 systems with the UAV board. At first I used a RetroTink 2X to take the UAV mod's S-Video and output that directly into the HDMI port of my television. It worked, aside from the funky colors that the Atari 7800 produces on modern displays. Tweaking the television's color settings can be a bit of a pain, but it's otherwise a good solution which doesn't cost too much. I've since replaced the entire stack (for both the modded Atari 7800 and my AV modded Famicom) with a Framemeister XRGB-Mini. It's expensive and end of life, albeit still available at the moment. It has around 1 frame of lag, which is more than the OSSC or RetroTink 2X, but it lets you change the color rendering of the video so the colors look correct in games like Commando on a modern television without playing with the television's settings. The modified settings look fine with the Famicom too. I don't think my reflexes are good enough anymore to notice a single frame of lag, and it just looks so much more like I remember. The XRGB's simulated scanline feature isn't too bad either.
  11. Mine arrived the other day and it looks perfect, thank you!
  12. If it's not too late I'll take a large and a pin, thanks! Lynx Club shirt for clarity.
  13. It turns out that the 200 ohm SMD resistor next to the xtal/oscillator was causing the speed issue. I replaced that and the speed is back to normal.
  14. Has anyone had their Game Gear go into hyper-active after installing a McWill LCD mod? This is the fifth GG I've put a McWill into, but this particular unit appears to have gained an extra blast processing unit along the way. The display looks great, but audio pitch is higher and games move faster. Sonic's walking acceleration in Sonic II for example is noticeably quicker. It's a VA1 unit with 2 ASICs and a 837-7719-01 board, the usual suspect electrolytic caps have been replaced, a few trace issues worked around, and it seemed to run at the correct speed with the half dead and deteriorating original display until the McWill mod was added.
  15. I modified one of the 6 button Genesis controllers I put together to play Xenocrisis with a pair of EdLaddin's Easy 78 boards. There's a switch on the side to change the ground configuration on the first two buttons so it works with the Atari 7800 twin controller configuration. Robotron 2048 plays amazingly well with it! If anyone's interested in duplicating the stick, I bought the box kit from Workshop Matt at Etsy since I just don't have the space for woodworking tools. He made a few changes that I asked for from his usual sticks to set it up for twin Sanwa sticks and Happ buttons. After assembling it I covered the top with some extra arcade control panel vinyl, added some edge trim seals off Amazon, put in the sticks, added some 8 way restrictor plates, put in some Happ style buttons to suit the look I was going for, and it looks and works pretty great IMO.
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