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About pollyisagoodbird

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  1. So I'll be buying an upright, full-size Super Pac-Man machine locally (within minutes of where I live, thank goodness), and need some tips on transporting it. I plan on using a minivan (specifically a late-model Kia Sedona with stow-and-go seats), but am incredibly skeptical about the machine's safety, particularly with the load / unload process. I've seen posts of folks saying it's okay to transport the machine on its back, but no posts explaining a how-to porcess to get the machine in and out of the van without dropping one end. So I have a small list of questions I've compiled: *Should I wrap it up before transporting it? And if so, with what? The van's floor is carpeted. *Will it be easy to get in and out of the van? It's a standard minivan, but my concern is loading it in at an angle, since the top end will have to go in first, so I wonder how easy it will be to put it in and out of the trunk. I'm assuming the heaviest part is the monitor. *Will a standard dolly work, or do I have to get something specific? I live on the ground floor, so I'll just roll it through my sliding glass door. *The carpet of my apartment is pretty plush. Out it be worth getting plastic sliders to stick on the bottom of the cabinet, in case I want to swap out boards and need to move it away fro the wall? Will this depreciate its value? Any and all suggestions I'd love to hear. Thank you!
  2. I'll shoot him a message and say you sent me. Thank you!
  3. I have a laundry list of Atari, Nintendo, and Sega stuff lol. What I'd love to see in the forums is an entire section dedicated to not only repairs, but a comprehensive list of users that are willing and able to fix things, also listing what they're experience is and where they're located.
  4. I wasn't sure if this would be the right place to post, but I was wondering if there was a way to get in contact with folks that did game repairs. I have quite a few things I want to have fixed, and just don't have the time or resources to do it myself.
  5. So recently I purchased an Atari XE game and cleaned it the best I could with 100% rubbing alcohol and a white artist's eraser. I could not get the game to boot, so after looking around, I noticed some folks saying they soak the game contacts in vinegar to help remove corrosion. I'm currently soaking my cart's contacts in vinegar as I type this up, and will wait about 15 minutes overall before I remove it and dry it. So, when using vinegar, should I use regular distilled vinegar, or get industrial strength, non-diluted vinegar? The regular stuff from the store contains water, so I assume that would negate the helpful effects of the vinegar? I' not what you call a chemist, so I wouldn't have the faintest idea if this even will work in the long run lol
  6. Back in 2015, I was granted permission to access the property of an old mini-golf fun center that had been sitting abandoned for nearly three years at that point in time. The fun center had operated from 1992 - 2012, when the owners defaulted on taxes and the place shut down for good. For my photography class final I decided to do an urban exploration piece, and I was EXTREMELY lucky to walk into the vacant relic of one of my favorite childhood places. Upon walking in, I was shocked to see that there were three games left, pushed into a corner of the game room. One of which was a Ms. Pac-Man machine, which I played time and again whenever I visited. However, I always wondered why it looked so...different. The cabinet, for one, is MASSIVE. The screen, from what I can recall, was far bigger than the arcade original, though it was still a vertical upright monitor. This game also possessed the speed chip, which if my memory is correct, was not added until sometime between my childhood and teenage years. I recall the game running at normal speed when I was a kid, though I could be wrong. But the cabinet itself has always intrigued me. Despite having "MIDWAY" plastered across the top above the screen, I wondered if this cabinet was actually a super-rare bootleg of sorts. I do know the control panel art is original Pac-Man art from a company called Willis (see below) So I have several theories on what this actual machine might be: 1. A official re-release by Midway in the 1990s, using leftover cabinets from other games they produced in an effort to liquidate unsold boards. 2. The cabinet itself is one where the owners can easily switch out arcade boards to classic games they have lying around, just to swap out a game from time to time and keeps their inventory fresh-ish, possibly made by Midway in the 90s. 3. The entire thing, board included, IS a bootleg game, though this wouldn't make much sense as the company that made it would have certainly been sued by Midway for using their logo in stickers. Does anyone else have any ideas? I'd love to hear them, and if anyone else has seen something like this out in the wild before. Before I left, I stuck a note with my contact information to whoever purchased the property in order to buy the game from them if they choose to sell it.
  7. That's probably not a bad hypothesis. Oddly enough this one works like it's brand new.
  8. I recently bought a boxed 5200 controller, and upon inspection of the box, I noticed it had a very late copyright date of 1987. That got my wondering...was Atari still trying to sell 5200s long after they were discontinued? Or was this just a matter of having so much excess inventory after the crash of 1983 that they still packaged and sold their obsolete merchandise in hopes folks would buy it? I just think it's kind of weird to see this being sold during the days of Nintendo Entertainment Systems dominating the market, all while Atari puts all hope into the flailing 7800.
  9. Today I recieved Atariage's Super Pacman homebrew, and while playing it I discovered a glitch on the left side of the maze. Running over a certain spot triggers the key collecting sound effect and adds points, despite there being no key there. Is that a glitch in the original game's code, or just my copy? 20200320_215435.mp4
  10. So I want to get data tapes for my 600XL, but XC12 tape recorders are easily over $100! I'm a total cheapskate, so I was wondering if there's any chance of an alternative. Will a plain old audio cassette player do if I have the right hookups for it? And if not, what are some cheaper alternatives?
  11. It is these right here. How would I go about diagnosing it properly?
  12. So a quick update - I removed the screws and took off the menu keys before removing the Mylar (as well as the plastic hole sheet between the Mylar) and cleaning the inside and outside with rubbing alcohol. I put everything back together with a bit of effort and gave the keyboard a test, and it works! The only keys I'm not getting a response from are J, K, L, ;, right arrow, and left arrow. Oddly enough, the Caps key at the end of that row works, but the Control key in the same row on the other side does not get a response, even in the keyboard test screen. But I also managed to fix the Help button as well during the cleaning process. I think what I'll do is disassemble it again and give the middle row extra attention, especially where those unresponsive keys are at. If it works, it works, if not, I'm at least satisfied I solved the stuck key issue. Hopefully I don't create more issues by doing everything all over again! But I think at some point I'll replace the Mylar, since it probably won't last too much longer regardless. Thanks you all for your help, I've learned quite a lot since I bought this machine.
  13. I wish I had seen this post before making my update lol. But sheesh, all these screws do have to be removed?
  14. So right now I have disconnected the keyboard from the motherboard and have it separated from the computer (see attached images). Now I have tried getting they keys off the Mylar, but it seems to be stuck. On the underside, there's 18 tiny screws, which I'm assuming I have to remove? The video I'm following (at the start of this thread) makes no mention of these screws, but does make a mention of the small black posts. I was under the assumption that those three posts were the only things holding the keys against the Mylar, but I just wanted to double check and see if all these screws need to be removed.
  15. My 600XL is currently sitting in pieces as of this moment; my motherboard is a Chelco, P/N:150600008, REV 8A, copyright date of 1983.
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