kynikos

May 28, 2022

1 minute ago, Beeblebrox said:

@kynikos well done re restoring the mylar.

Re the shield and pbi guard if you have shielding that doesn't have bolts but screws, in order to secure the guard it needs both the top side and underside parts of the shield if I recall. Bolts go through the underside of the pcb shield, through to the top side shield, and the guard is sandwiched in between.

Thanks, I'll give that a go. They are just short bolts now that I looked at them again.

May 28, 2022

Well, good news - the conductive paint worked! The top row of keys is now working and everything else seems to be fine. Once I got the keyboard out I could see more of the traces across the whole mylar had turned black, so I thought I was in for a bad time, but it worked with just a bit applied to the ribbon part sticking out. Thanks all for the help! I may order a new mylar as a backup just in case but for now everything seems to be working fine.

The only thing I couldn't figure out when putting the computer back together was the metal clip on the rear expansion port. It seems to ride under the RF shield tabs. There are two short screws that seem to not bite into anything. Anyone know how that fits together again?

May 27, 2022

15 minutes ago, erichenneke said:

Did you ever get the conductive paint and give it a try?

Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk

Just got it in the mail today but haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Hopefully will be able to give it a go this weekend if I can get away from the kids for a bit!

May 20, 2022

7 hours ago, erichenneke said:

Any updates?

Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk

I swapped out the 4051s but that didn't make any difference so it must be the mylar. I'm still waiting on the conductive stuff to arrive. If that doesn't work then I'll just get a new mylar.

May 16, 2022

Thank you! Replacing the mylar seems like it would be a pain.

May 16, 2022

34 minutes ago, erichenneke said:

Hmm, tough call. Personally i am a big believer in the conductive paint approach because I have had a 100% success rate after many many fixes. That said, I have also bought some Best Mylars as well, but I've never had to use them because the paint fix always worked, and so far (in some cases several years later) are still going strong. So I am just holding onto the Mylars for backup if needed some day. If you don't already have any paint, and if you don't plan to troubleshoot more systems in the future, well then you might just want to go for the Mylar and be done with it.

You could try testing just up the trace a little bit, like a half inch, from the edge to see if it is solid. If so, then trimming it a bit could be an easy fix with nothing to lose too.

I'm not opposed to trying the paint fix as I work on a lot of other computer/game console electronic projects so I could probably use it for something else. Do you have a link to a specific product so I can get the right thing?

Do you happen to remember how much shipping was on the mylars from Best? I've ordered from them a few times so I know the drill.

May 15, 2022

Well after getting out the multimeter, there are definitely some continuity issues with the traces coming out of pins 1 and 2 (the top two in the photo I posted). Those two correspond exactly to the row of keys that are not working according to the schematic. I guess I should have checked that before messing with the 4051s. Oh well, replacements were cheap. Some of the black oxidation or whatever it is goes up pretty high to where I'd probably need to take the keyboard apart more to access. At that point, might I be better served just getting a new mylar for it? I don't have any conductive paint so I'd have to spend the money on one or the other. If that's the route I go, is the mylar from Best Electronics still the go to? Many thanks to all for the help so far!

May 15, 2022

Ok, finally got a chance to open it up. The case screws were still torqued down so I don't think anyone has been inside until me. Everything is in good shape and very clean. It seems like a type 4 keyboard with the metal plate on the back from what I can tell. The mylar has some black coloring near the connector and part way up the top ribbon that goes all the way through one of the lines. I'm not sure if that's normal or indicates an oxidized trace. I planned to try swapping the 4051 chips as suggested but accidentally broke a pin off getting getting one out as the sockets were pretty tight so I have some more on the way to continue testing.

May 14, 2022

14 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

@kynikos given a select few keys in a row the keyboard is likely a mylar with a line of em knocked out by one of the mylar tracks having gone bad. Loadsa advice on AA about painting mylar tracks back on with conductive paint.

It could also be a bad trace on the keyboard's pcb if it is that type of keyboard knocking out a line of keys which is fixable.

Open up the lid and post a few pics of the keyboard and cross ref it with this thread :

Thanks all! I'm pretty sure I have a type 4 keyboard just going visually but won't have time to open everything up until later this weekend. The seller claimed that row of keys were working before packing it up so I'm hoping its just a matter of something coming loose during shipping. Will keep you all posted!

May 13, 2022

Hi all, I picked up my first Atari 800XL and everything works great aside from the whole top row of keys (escape -> backspace). None of them register at all. Is there anything I should investigate once I open up the computer? At least it's made in Hong Kong, so everything should be socketed from what I've read, in case it comes down to replacing chips. I've also heard of the mylar going bad as well? Any help would be appreciated to point me in the right direction!

May 13, 2022

54 minutes ago, hofster said:

The SID is used for reading analog joysticks and the 586220 is testing that functionality as part of the control port test. It reports bad SID if the analog parts of the control port tests fail.
You need a test harness that connects to the control ports and other ports to run the 586220 and get all good results.
Is the bad U18 indication showing up right after the control port test has finished?

It basically looked like the attached image. I had nothing else plugged in so that might explain it. I'm not sure I want to spend the money on a test harness right now as this is my only C64 and I don't really plan on getting more.

May 13, 2022

Hi all, I recently picked up my first C64 and am a bit confused after running some diagnostic tests. On both the 586220 and 586220* diagnostics my 6518 U18 is showing as "bad", which I understand is the SID chip. However, when running the SID Tester by Andrew Challis, everything passes and I can hear all the sounds fine. Games sound fine as well. Should I be concerned that my SID dying or would this just be a diagnostic test discrepancy? Thanks in advance!

May 11, 2022

Please put me down for 2 controllers.

February 17, 2022

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a Micro Genius IQ-501 console with discrete chips (CPU and PPU). I'm fine with NTSC or PAL and don't care about a box or other accessories. I'd prefer it come with a controller or two if possible. I had one a few years ago but sold it and have kind of regretted it ever since. I'm located in the United States in terms of shipping. Please let me know what you have and name your price. Thanks!

July 17, 2021

Will the firmware on the pre-production Concerto cart be upgradable? Obviously not for the extra memory support as stated but what about other improvements along the way? Also, do the pre-production carts also feature sockets for a POKEY chip? It looks like it does but just wanted to make sure.

July 7, 2021

Does anyone happen to know if the Best Electronics Jaguar pad adapter (https://www.best-electronics-ca.com/review.htm) would work for two button games on a 7800?

May 21, 2021

I'd love to pick one of these up if they're ever available again. I sold my INTV and CC3 a few years ago when I needed the money but have regretted it ever since. I told myself I wouldn't buy another INTV until I was able to get a flashcart for it again, so I guess I will have to go without for the time being. Emulation just isn't the same!

May 19, 2021

9 hours ago, Doomy Doomer said:

Those would be the settings I would have suggested too. I really wish I had a Framemeister, so I could do a like for like here but I went the OSSC route. Ok, here's my point of view on your issue. The Jag2SNES is just a passthrough for Red, Green, Blue, Chroma and Luma to the SNES socket. It's as if you took a genuine Jag AV cable and connected it directly to your TV from the Jag. The Jag2SNES isn't doing any filtering to the those signals, which means you're getting all those signals exactly as your Jag is outputting it via traces on a PCB. For me that's the biggest telltale sign it's most likely not the adapter. It's also worth mentioning that S-Video doesn't use Sync, so it's not a sync related issue otherwise you'd see some kind of difference between RGB and S-Video.

I think it's the combination of your Jag, cables, and Framemeister that's causing the smearing. It's a bummer and I know that's probably not what you want to hear but ultimately that's what it sounds like. At the end of the day though you shouldn't be unhappy with something you've purchased. I'm sure Helder will happily take the adapter back and refund you even though I highly doubt it's the actual Jag2SNES that's causing the issue. In fact, if you do send it back, I'm going to have him mail it to me so I can put it through my gauntlet of testing.

Don't sweat it, I didn't post to complain - just trying to figure out what might be causing the smearing. There's a million different variables in these setups and I don't expect hobbyist products to work perfectly with all of them. The Jag2SNES wasn't very expensive and I like to support creators - I'm sure I can use it on a different setup down the line. I suppose I could open it up and take pictures to see if anything looks amiss.

I ordered one of those cheap SNES SCART cables to see if that makes any difference. If not, I'll try to find an official Jaguar SCART cable. I haven't tried to test it on a CRT yet as I don't really want to crawl behind the media center again and unhook everything. Worst case scenario I just live with the smearing, which isn't really that big of a deal, for the time being. It's only really noticeable on bright white text and the rest of the graphics look fine.

May 18, 2021

On 5/2/2021 at 11:17 AM, jgkspsx said:

I have had a lot of fun with Joust so far. Thanks to everyone who worked on it!

Agreed. I'm having a ton of fun with these ports - thanks so much for making these possible!

May 18, 2021

1 hour ago, Doomy Doomer said:

Now we're getting somewhere. How about your Framemeisters profile, is it setup properly for the Jaguar?

I've tried profiles with settings suggested for 240p consoles from My Life in Gaming videos as well as the FirebrandX Jag profile (https://www.firebrandx.com/framemeisterprofiles.html) and it seems to have the blurring no matter what. Other than that, I don't know what specific settings I'd need to tweak for Jaguar. I'm using 720p for my Framemeister profiles as I have a 4K TV and that seems to work best for upscaling.

May 18, 2021

1 hour ago, Doomy Doomer said:

No problem at all. Questions are good because if others have an issue they can search and find this post for help.

No problem. I'd like to try and narrow down the issue for you. Can you list what cable types / brands you've been using as well as what scaler you're using to take these cables to your TV? Also, what power supply are you using for your Jag?

FWIW, The Chrome and Luma signals are completely untouched in the Jag2SNES adapter. It's a straight run from the AV edge to the SNES socket in the adapter, so it's very unlikely the Jag2SNES is the single point of failure in my opinion.

I've tried the Jag2SNES adapter with an official Nintendo s-video cable (SHVC-009) and Insurrection Industries SCART cable (https://insurrectionindustries.com/product/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-rgb-scart-cable/). Both cables work fine with the RGB-modded AV Famicom that lives next to the Jag as I got the adapter so they could share cables.

I also tried an s-video cable from B&C (https://www.ebay.com/itm/133262880843) plugged in directly to the Jag to see if it was the adapter. They all seemed to have similar blurring.

All of this is going into a gscartsw (http://www.gretrostuff.com/store/gscartsw-v3-4/) SCART switch (aside from s-video cables) and then Framemeister scaler. The Jag is powered by an official Atari power pack (https://www.ebay.com/itm/133391094429).

May 18, 2021

Appreciate all the info. I'll probably give it a go with the cheap cable and maybe try to track down an official Jaguar SCART cable as well. Sometimes I feel like the more pricey SCART cables are more trouble than they're worth for some consoles.

It's just weird that I'd have similar smearing using the adapter but with Nintendo OEM s-video cables as well as the s-video cable I picked up for the Jaguar.

May 17, 2021

4 minutes ago, feoh said:

Hi all.

Pardon the ever so slight thread hijack but it's only EVER so slight

I was lucky enough to get an LTO Flash cart and I have to say it's *awesome*!

I'm 52, and I then proceeded to damage my right wrist with the Intellivision's controller. I still love the system and bear it no grudges or ill will, but I need to find a loving home for my original Intellivision system, a raft of about 20-30 carts (Many work, quite a few don't. Probably just need cleaning).

I'd love to gift my console and all associated accessories including the LTO Flash to someone who will actually USE it

Is that you? If you're Boston area I could just hand it to you, and if not I'd be willing to ship somewhere.

I'd love to be considered - sent you a message!

May 17, 2021

20 hours ago, DragonFire said:

I just got my Jag2SNES adapter and I'm having the same issue. It reminds me of the problem pre-1Chip SNES consoles have with smearing colors, where the voltage rises and falls too slowly during brightness changes, so maybe it has a similar cause?

I've posted several pics here that show the horizontal smearing/streaking/color bleed/whatever you want to call it. It's visible in all colors, but most dramatic in bright-to-dark transitions.

I'm using the Jag2SNES from @Doomy Doomer and Helder, plugged into an Insurrection Industries SNES/N64 RGB SCART cable, plugged into an OSSC. For these pics it was set to generic 4:3 and 5X, although the issue looks basically the same on any scaling or sampling mode.

Is this normal for the Jaguar? Or for specific revisions of the Jaguar? If not, is it likely to be a problem with the adapter?

I've had the OSSC and the SCART cable for ages, and they work as expected with other consoles.

Glad to know I'm not alone but sorry you're also having the same issues. I'm using the same Insurrection cable plugged into a Framemeister (also tried various profiles to no avail) but don't have the same issues color bleeding with my AV Famicom, N64, or various SNES revisions. Never had this issue with any of my other consoles, cables, and/or Framemeister. I have a K series Jaguar that has never been recapped to my knowledge.

May 14, 2021

Hi all, I'm getting a weird drop shadow effect on white colors, mostly text, with my Jaguar that I can't figure out (see attached photo). I get the same effect using three different s-video and RGB cables (s-video cable from B&C and Jag2SNES adapter w/ SNES RGB/s-video) that don't do the same thing with other consoles. I first thought it was part of the JagGD UI but then noticed it more when trying out different games. Any idea what's going on and how to fix it?

Profiles

Forums

Blogs

Gallery

Events

Store

Posts posted by kynikos