TheCoolDave

I kind of want one of these for my FZ-1 but, $165 is a ltitle too much. If it was around $75-100, I might be all over it. Was thinking the internal... using a small USB extender for interrnal mount, cutting out a hole IN THE BACK OF THE UNIT and plug a small USB in the back so I can plug the USB drive in the back. No one would know the difference. Putting it in front would make the front cover ugly....

Tempted on the Super Mario Return To Dinosaur Land......been watching some youtube videos, looks fun...

You can use a 360 with Windows Media Center on a PC...and you can watch live TV, recorded DVR and lots of other things with a remote.... (you do need a Windows 7/8.1 PC that has Windows Media Center and a TV tuner etc.)

Thanks ! I know of it, and it's what i was referring to above. I want to see how bad it is at 480p, 720p, 1080p and 4k... so I would need some type of app that can adjust the screen res to each and try the test on it. I wish I knew how to program as it sounds like this could be a fairly easy thing to do. I guess this weekend, i am going to yank my 24" LCD from my gaming PC that only has a 2ms lag on it and run my Xbox into it to try some COD BLOPS 4 this weekend to see how much better I get... If I get a LOT better, it will be time to sell off the 65" 4k TV and start shopping/saving up for a very low lag one.... Just wanted to see if anyone made an app for the Xbox One that could do something like this.

Yea, really, I have been a gamer from when I was 8, with an atari 2600... and have owned/still own almost every video game system from that point...

You can get A/V extenders over CAT5/6... There is boxes, you plug A/V into one side, a power cord and a Network cable. On the other side, you do the reverse. These types of adapters are designed to go longer range with out noise. The HDMI ones are high in demand now so getting one that just does composite/audio should be fairly reasonable price. Check ebay...

Well they can do on screen tests like they do on the 240p suite. A box goes across back and forth on the screen the screen, the goal would be to hit a button as the box is over the box in the background... you try to hit the button when it goes over the box, you get an average and it gives a good estimation of your screen LAG. Not perfect or even 100% accurate but, can give a good idea on how bad it is. This could be done fairly easy in an app, it's why I figured it might be out there. Under my homework and trust me I have done a lot, LAG can get much worse depending on what signal goes into it. 480p, 720p,, 2K (1080p) and 4K will have all different levels of lag. Different TVs of one model can have different lag levels, as like in old consoles, a TV that comes out 6 months later of the same model could have a updated chipset even though its' the same exact model. I did pick up a Framemister so I can get all the classic consoles to at least 480p or even 1080p so it should be fairly manageable as long as the TV does good at 480p or 1080p.. Yes, this is very scary rabbit hole and TV designers should be ashamed to make a TV that does not work with games... as a 15ms or higher LAG could fit in this as not for gaming... My TV has a bunch of gaming features, like dual play, and I thought that was cool....before I knew about LAG...sigh... Also interesting to note.... In my research I saw some front projectors that only have about 10ms of lag... maybe it's time to trash the TV...

Truth be told, putting classic games into single $1 games would net in billions in sales globally. If he was SMART he would do that. Moving with the modern age. Not everyone in the world has a Switch but, 99% of the people out there in a classic gaming marketplace has a smart phone. Such an untapped market for Nintendo. Anyway about it, I liked Reggie, he seemed fairly down to earth (not the jerky CEO type) but, he never really told much. By the time he had a press outlet, more stuff than he would say was available on other outlets. Smart man to retire, He made enough money to live very conformable and he will enjoy life doing the things he has always wanted to do. It's something I would do if I hit that kind of money. What is the point of life if you don't do anything to really enjoy it..

Hey all, Most of us have a modern TV that we game on and as most people SHOULD know, LCDS/plasma's etc do a lot of processing of the picture before it can display on the TV. All this processing will add a very low delay before it displays on the TV, more processing/features, the more the time before it displays on the TV. This is known as INPUT lag. Most TVs have a "game" mode, enabling this shuts off MOST processing but, there is always a % of lag. If your gaming on a modern TV, It's very important to leave the TV in gaming mode. Even some of the ultra High end TVs that are well over $10,000 can have as much as 90ms of lag and the lower priced TVs could be just as bad. There is also HDCP when your using HDMI cables, that makes a secure connection between devices and that also can add lag. Even 30ms of lag can cause a major effect in gaming, in things like COD multi-player. Interesting find in my case... When I got my new 4K TV, it felt I got bad at COD, I kind of wrote it off as people are just getting better. BUT, when I upgraded to a Xbox one X, I noticed I got a little better. On my TV 1080p with all processing features turned off, is around 55ms delay but, in 4K mode (xbox one X), it drops down to 25ms. In a few ways, I miss my HUGE 65" Read projection TV that was only displayed via component cables...NO HDMI... So, with all the apps out there for modern consoles, esp the Xbox one X, is there a good lag test program out there for a modern console ?

She also knows I have been collecting video games from the age of 8... and we have lived to together for 20 years now, and every time we lived together I have always had 4-6 consoles (with many games) setup. Now I started to get my entire collection together, over 30 consoles with thousands of games... never mind my 5 full size coin op games... Trust me she has been trying for years... and in my eyes they are not replicable. As if I am able to sell a game for $500, when I try to get it again, it will cost me $550 or more....

One of many sites with this info... https://variety.com/2019/gaming/news/cancelled-dice-hardcore-sega-1203145906/ Hardcore a long-canceled run-and-gun game from DICE, will finally see the light of day with a release on the Mega SG, Analogue announced on Friday. Hardcore has gone unreleased for 23 years following its cancellation in 1994. The game’s development was “99% complete,” according to the company. The only known source code was stored on a single, dead hard drive which Analogue was able to recover. When released the ONLY way you will be able to play this game is picking up Analogue's Mega SG console (going to retail for $190), or they will release it for the PS4 and Vita. This game looks like a load of fun..I need to play this. Here is a video/preview of gameplay Thought it was cool and wanted to share.

LOL, I've told my wife about parts of my collection, I have a handful of items that are worth well over $500 and some closer to $1200. Every time we get a little tight, she asked me to sell my games and there is a HUGE no. It's one she wont win and she knows it.

I have 3-4 SEALED Jaguar CDs but, no CD player, it was many years ago, when they were clearning out of them, I just grabbed the discs for cheap money meaning to get a player but, never did.... Would like one but, not willing to pay $400+ for it. If it was around $100 it would be a no brainer but, they don't sell close to that, even if not working.

Actually It was on my local news and then the world news show that is right after showed as well (nation wide broadcast). Never mind it was front page on most News related web pages. It's hard to believe you didn't hear anything about it unless you didn't watch the news on the day after it happened... Grats. It's like anything else. The MINT versions are worth more than the crappy beat up versions. We are getting to an age where 30 year old games are collectable and the PRIME versions should be verified to make sure their shape is as expected. There is nothing wrong with grading, if your keeping it for an investment. Personally I collect games so i can enjoy them but, at least this game I have at least 4-5 copies for the NES alone....

Agree with the NES and the Sega systems. I would try to emulate 2600, 5200 and 7800 to see if this is road you want to go down. Atari 2600 even a NES could be had for under $50 depending on where you look. Get a emulator, try a few key games on each system and see what your thoughts are. Just to see if you like how these systems play. If your one wanting to go back and your only reference is a Xbox one or PS4, going to a 2600 might be really hard if you have not seen or played them. A lot of us love them but, we also grew up with them. You could always go on YouTube and look over the top games for each system and they should show a preview of how they look and about how they will play. Keep in mind some classic games go for some good money, this can be a very expensive rabbit hole to go down...

Good to know. I might do some tests on some things I don't really care about before testing on the consoles for clear test... Ordered the kit from Amazon today, so I should have it over the weekend, so I will try at some point next week...

If any that the OP does not want... I might be interested... Of course it's his post so ask him first.... I don't have any with box so lose cart would be cool too.. I have like 6 games but, very common ones... and I dont want to pay ebay rip off prices..

There is a difference here. Baseball cards lost their appeal to a lot of people, so the 90's cards that were with $50-200 might be worth $0.10- $25... Demand has gone down for cards, same with the old beanie babies, they were worth good money and it faded. Then toys for the example, it's the retro toys that were released in very limited amounts that are worth money, the big money is for the sealed ones. Some things just go through fads... if you trying to make money, grab then and sell them when the fads are in. The thing about video games. They have always been popular, they were 20-30 years ago, they were 10 years ago and even today. After the release of the mini-NES and how crazy people went over it just for the retro value, it just shows videos games are not going anywhere. It's why some ultra rare prime games will go for big money and this trend will continue…. Something like this sale gets people really looking into games and the rare ones... The only sad thing about this is, going to a yardsale, a beat up NES with 10 games people are going to ask $200 for it... So much for the huge box of games for $5... sigh..

I will, I might be doing a video as well for it. As I will be starting a YouTube channel and I can edit it later for some content....

I'll give it a shot...I'll grab some this week. Amazon appears to be a reasonable price for the kit... I have a few systems that could use some love here... It would be really nice if there was a way to make them look almost new...

The only HACK to allow you to run ROMs/ISOs is the replacement for the CD drive..Rhea and Phoebe (depending on what model you have). This would require you to remove the CD drive and replace it with a device that will take a SD card that you could load with ISOs (or other format, see video). You would open the CD cover, instead of a CD drive, it would be a SD card holder that you can swap out. A review here and how they work...by My life in gaming on YouTube... You can search how to buy them here... https://gdemu.wordpress.com/ Neat little device...but, a little pricey... Its the only thing I have found.... is there any other way ?

How well will this work on those micro scratches on, for example, the original PS3 with the piano black finish. It's got so many micro scratches on it, it looks like complete crap where I am thinking about replacing it. I did try some car polish as it works epic for micro scratches in paint but, saw no real result. Can this actually be recovered ? Thanks to the OP for posting this, I have been thinking about the same thing. I have some my original game systems when I was a kid but, the little scratches has me wondering if I should replace it...

I have 2 of them, I was going to sell one as part of a package deal with a bunch of consoles, I'll have to pull them apart to see what is what before doing that. Is there an image or guide to find exactly on the board where the chip is ?

Thanks for the info, I need to find more information on this. I'll have to look over YouTube or something. Was there ever a way to tell via serial number for example that could tell the differences in video decoders ?

Ok, I didn't post that to really show the history, it was more of showing the different version of this cart. With anything out there, a value of an item is only shown by what someone will pay for it. You could have something that is "valued" at $10,000 but, if you cant find a buyer that will pay you more than $5000, is it really worth $10,000 ? It's just like any other collectable. Why some comic books sell for so much or even baseball cards. Rare items are normally worth more money, ultra rare items are worth far more. This was a very limited cart, only released in test markets and 99% of them were opened and used. It's why it's so valuable. Look at some other expensive NES games like Stadium Events or even Little Samson (and Little Samson is a really good game), why do you think they get so much for them ? IS this cart any different ? Still I agree $100K is crazy for it(I also think $25K for Stadium Events is crazy too). Anyway about it, 3 investors felt they could make money if it. It will sit for a year or 2 and pop up again. If it sells for more money, then we know where this goes and the value was/is there on ultra rare video games.