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TheCoolDave

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Everything posted by TheCoolDave

  1. Looks like Mario Kart but with Garfield...
  2. I went on console5.com....they had replacements cords ( ends with some wire)for gen model 1 for $2.79...grabbed 3 ill check my GameCube cord to see exact specs to find a replacement one... cool, thx for the info would be easy..
  3. Here’s the thing...If go what am now thinking...adding a master system to my setup. I only want to use SMS games on the EverDrive every once and a wile. Running a model 2 SCART cable to the 32x...and that little adapter I linked to should do the job for every one and a while. inputs on the SCART switch could be limited and it complcates the remote setup..(I am obsessed with automating things) my setup will be a model 1/first CD device/32x....just as picture above is is there a diagram for this power supply thing ? Anyway about it...I need one of those in my life
  4. I ended up finding another one with 6 games for like $125.....this one is complete...so the first one I can test. i guess I finally got one of these that I have wanted from the 90’s
  5. Afore the record I have 3 Genesis systems...2 HI Def model 1 and a model 2 I’m taking the fact that the Power Base Converter is not going to work if I wanted to keep the 32x connected. I am accepting that fact. I DO want to be able to play SMS games via my gen Everdrive x3. I don’t have one for the master system and there is homebrew and custom games I want to try. If a $25 cable allows it time to time. I might as well hook up a Master system as it can do RGB with no mods. i see your point of a by pass fo S-Vedic like your talking...makes complete sense. After seeing a console through the Framemeister in RGB and playing for a bit...I’m sold. NES and later component, HDMI or RGB..no S-video. I was blown away on how good it looked. Still in wow a day later. I never knew a SNES could look that good( the system I tested In RGB) I DO need to find out more on at GameCube power cord mod. I just saw one option for a single cord but it was $60 plus $12 for shipping.....ouch !
  6. Well that just completely sucks., My main goal was to play the Phantasy Star game on it. Or even the Retranslation of it via my Everdrive So even that wont work. They do make a Sega A/V 1 style to 2 adapter. I could leave it plugged into the 32x, and just swap cables in the back of the unit to play it, Something I didn't want to do but, as long as they can be hidden. This is what I am talking about.. https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega/32x/32X-PATCH-CABLE-WITH-FEMALE-9-PIN-DIN There is too many cables between this whole setup anyway, 3 power cords is crazy. I guess I will need to setup a Master system in my cabinet ….
  7. Hey all, I'm lost here, so just wondering how to get this all to work. The RULES for my setup... 1. It's going to be SCART to my Framemeister, I can have 1 cable. 2. No swapping cables in the back, really want to avoid swapping cables, etc (the switching system will be hidden from view, so no access unless major changes) I was going to do a huge post on details on this....but, let's make it easy with pictures ! ! ! I have this setup... Yes, I opened my brand new Sega 32x today with the original toys r us slip from 11/16/1996 (I dropped in the box after I got it). It's not about the value, it's about the games I have this all wired up, Sega Genesis carts, CD and 32x games work perfect(well as good as they can for composite...for now) I want to use this and play some even more classic games.... So, if I pull off the 32x (not disconnecting any cables) and drop on the Power base converter, I get audio but, no video. I put the 32x back on and this wont fit (cables in the back). So how do I play master system games with out swapping cables and adapters on this setup ????????? And I have a Model 2 but, I love my ORGINAL(this is my teens original Genesis, Power base converter and CD setup) and will not change. I have a Megadrive x3 and I know I can play roms but, I have original games for a reason. Ideas ?
  8. Nope, device and joystick, nothing else. The eye piece looks in fair shape. Oh crap, It's looking that I wont even know if this works for a while. Anyone one know of a source to get this piece for cheap ($20 or under), or it's going to sit for a while ? Looking at the PINs on the bottom of the controller, it's only 2, so there will be a + and - I just need to figure out what is what and I can do a temp connection to see if she lights up, to see if it's worth investing in the other parts to complete it. I might have to do this. A little duct tape and some stronger wire (I could sodder it but, only want a temp connection), I should be able to set it up so I can at least test it...
  9. I've always used these type of things... https://www.amazon.com/ANHAN-Adapter-Connector-Security-Coaxial/dp/B078N29BQR/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1544196020&sr=8-14&keywords=coax+to+rca+adapter They can be had on eBay for under $1, never a problem with any console...
  10. I saw those, looked over the pictures... They look exactly the same, to the T. They sold a bunch of them for $50 and change... But, your right and it was my mistake. I didn't see the repo thing.
  11. I just looked it up, There is one listed for $239.99 right now... but, going over sold listings last ones sold for a LOT less.... Sounds like a neat game...
  12. Agreed, mine was a little funky so I was going to pull it apart... Never mind... Not till it's actually broken..
  13. The one I grabbed was "untested" as he had no power cord.. maybe I'll get lucky. When I get it, I'll use a SNES power cord, give it power and see if she works. I know a stand could be had for around $30 but, batteries tend to be crazy expensive ($75+) or even battery packs for AA...still around $45.. I know it's said to give a headache but, I've never used one and kind of always wanted one... Just wish there was some reasonable parts...
  14. Thanks. I guess the quest is on for a fairly easy mod for it to give me RGB. I'm going to buy a 16 port SCART switch so I want to convert consoles out output RGB... Thanks for the info.
  15. On the TurboDuo. can you pull RGB (SCART) out of the A/V port on the side ? OR does it need to be modded ? Another question, The A/V cable comes out on the side and sticks out 2-3"...does anyone make a right angle slim cable so it points out towards the back ? I need to make it not so wide...
  16. I know this is an old thread but, does anyone have one of these and still use them ? I've always wanted one, it's a small collection of games, it's a interesting system from the old Nintendo days. I dont know a ton about them but, was looking for some modern day thoughts on it. I picked one up for a fair price, that is just the device and the controller. No battery or power cord or stand. Anyone know if I can stlll use it as i understand it uses a SNES powercord (I have 2-3 SNES systems). It came with 1 game (Tennis), so it's a test cart for me. Waiting for it to come in. Can it be used with just a SNES powercord for power ?
  17. I'd make an offer on a FEW things but, it's the holidays... sigh. Wasn't someone a few posts down looking (kind of desperately) for a Vectrex ? I love mine, I just need a few more games for it... I sent him a PM, maybe you guys can meet up... I know how hard these can be to find...
  18. Windows 10 has a lot more features, it also has a lot more services that run in the background than Windows 7. On good fairly modern hardware, it does very well on Windows 10 but, I'm someone who has worked in IT for over 20 years now. I have done the tests, side by side. We have some old Core 2 duo machines we use for basic appliances(at the office, single automated task computers). I tried 10 on it and it was so bogged down, the system was unusable for about 8 min after it appeared to be ready to go. Windows 7 on the other hand is still a little sluggish but, very usable. Drop a SSD in and it's very, very usable. It's all about the age of the hardware. I was also a hold out on XP for a long while but, always ran 2 OS's on dual boot... It was XP and 7 (Vista for a while) back on those days.. Now it's Windows 10 and Windows 7... I didn't want to turn this into a Who's OS is better discussion... they all have their good usage in the correct hardware...It's just what I was trying to clarify.
  19. Or you can always add a $39 slim profile video card that would pass audio over HDMI... Video cards have been doing this for many years now. And you can always grab a display port to HDMI adapter... not sure if that would carry audio over but, it might.
  20. This is where you lose out. Non-collector people think games are worth TONS of money now for common things. They go out and try to get the MOST possible. I'll send over an offer with a reason why I think it's fair, most of the time they accept, if they decline, I walk away. There are always a little of deal to be found by haggling just a little...if you feel it's too much of a hassle, then I guess it's not that important to you.
  21. Very cool, I wish i had a Everdrive type device for my 7800 so I can play it on real hardware (when I get mine back)
  22. But, it's under $20....cheap Kind of makes me think... I have a white Wii, on a white cabinet, it's going to drowned it out... so now I want a red one...dam should not of seen this thread..
  23. Maybe it's me but tested working ones are $150-300+.(ebay pricing) So getting a TRUE untested one for $70 does not seem like a really bad deal if you needed/wanted one. A power cord is like $10-15 and video cable should not be much more.
  24. Yea, exactly but, you use them as a reference ONLY. I will see prices on there and I will still go 20-30% less. If they do a solid decline, I might of gone too far...if they give a counter offer, then get an good idea where your next offer should be. On eBay, you get 3 attempts for an offer. So start low, go a little higher, then final is the best you are willing to pay. I've made an offer on something for 50% off a handful of times... and it was agreed to. If you offer retail FIRST, you will never know if you could of gotten it cheaper.
  25. Trust me. Take 2 4-5 year old lower end computers(what the OP is looking at) with the SAME EXACT specs, put Windows 7 home on one and put Windows 10 on the other. Try to run the same tasks, over and over. You will find that Windows 7 runs faster across the board. The memory management system on 10 is better but, you need more horsepower to run Windows 10 than Windows 7. If your resources are very good to start with, then go with 10. If your looking at a old dual core CPU with 2gb of memory, you will/can have performance issues and you should stick 7 On any newer computer, no question 10 (all depending on what your trying to run, some older apps wont run under 10), but, on a 4-5 year old computer. You will get better performance in the long run going with 7. Besides a lot of these emulators are home built packages, I would put money down that not all of them run perfectly on 10. 7 would be more compatible. I might even stick with a x86 version as well, some really old emulators still have some 16bit code in them (Yuck !).
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